View Full Version : Turbo Leaking Oil
Dman2603
20th March 2015, 11:07 AM
Good day all,
Ok so I may have been abit hasty buying my new patrol 2006 GU IV ST 3.0TD. Looking through the service history last night I noticed its last service comments. Just wanting to know how bad they are!
Steering play - Minor
Wheel bearing - Minor
Turbo leaking oil - Monitor
I did notice on the way home there was a little play in the steering wheel ie you can turn it slightly with nothing happening! But im more concerned about the wheel bearing & turbo!!
Roughly what would be the cause/ fix & cost to fix the wheel bearing & turbo?
Thank you very much for any help guys!!
4bye4
20th March 2015, 11:31 AM
G'day mate. Any chance of talking to whoever wrote the comments. Minor may mean nothing much but they just want you to know they looked. Turbo leaking oil may mean the same or main mean a major issue. I am a mechanic on small motors and we all have our own way of talking to the customer. If I say monitor I would mean that I can see oil there but it doesn't seem to be a problem. Keep an eye on it to see if it gets worse. The thing is, turbo oil leaks can mean somthing as simple as the engine oil being overfilled to a warning of iminent disaster. The reports you have really need discussing with the person or at least the company that wrote them.
Or recheck the items yourself or by a mechanic you trust.
threedogs
20th March 2015, 11:34 AM
Front wheel bearings and swivel kit would be the way to go if its DIY, plenty written
in the DIY section. Check your oil level is yours a Di or CRD being as 06 was the change over year
EG Di engines dont like being overfilled even a little bit, if anything a bit under is better IMO.
Steering play could be bushes check with a long bar and a mate. use only OE bushes as a replacement.
Dman2603
20th March 2015, 02:03 PM
Cheers guys! Ok regarding CRD or Di.. Umm I am not completely sure!! If it is Direct Injection is that Di? Then is CRD multi point injection in the intake manifold? I understand CRD is common rail diesel! But don't know what that actually means! Im not a complete muppet but this is my first 4x4 Diesel have just come from a clubsport! So I know a little bit about some stuff!! & yeah @4bye4 I have the mechanics receipt so I will give them a phone & see what they say!
But on the other hand I also have a quote of $120 for Robson bros here in Perth to have a minor vehicle inspection done! Should I have this done as well just in case?
Thank you all for your advice!!
4bye4
20th March 2015, 02:29 PM
Cheers guys! Ok regarding CRD or Di.. Umm I am not completely sure!! If it is Direct Injection is that Di? Then is CRD multi point injection in the intake manifold? I understand CRD is common rail diesel! But don't know what that actually means! Im not a complete muppet but this is my first 4x4 Diesel have just come from a clubsport! So I know a little bit about some stuff!! & yeah @4bye4 I have the mechanics receipt so I will give them a phone & see what they say!
But on the other hand I also have a quote of $120 for Robson bros here in Perth to have a minor vehicle inspection done! Should I have this done as well just in case?
Thank you all for your advice!!
Robson Bros have a good reputation. I recon I would pay the $120 as it is a new car to you. Then you would have a idea of what you need to do and in what order. i mean what would you pay for an RAC or SGIO car check?
threedogs
20th March 2015, 02:46 PM
your build date is on a aluminium tag on the radiator support panel in front of radiator cap approx.
it will say month and year of build, Im thinking you have a CRD.
Which is roughly a different way of delivering fuel to meet emissions
Dman2603
20th March 2015, 02:48 PM
Cheers 4bye4!! Yeah an RAC pre purchase check is about $380 ish! So I do agree $120 isn't a lot to know exactly how bad things are & when they will need fixed!!
Cheers for the advice!!
Dman2603
20th March 2015, 02:49 PM
Ok Threedogs do you know the month the swap occurred by any chance? I will check it out when I get home from work!!
the evil twin
20th March 2015, 03:12 PM
An '06 will be a Di.
CRD's didn't come out until mid '07
Dman2603
20th March 2015, 03:18 PM
Cheers ET I just did some research & came to the same conclusion!!
So on that note check the oil immediately??
On another note. When approaching 3000+ revs the open door light comes on, on the dash! Dodgy electrics? & when door open interior light doesn't come on but flashes when door is closed! & does work when put to on position!
Cheers for all the help guys!! Still kind of regretting this at the moment!!
threedogs
20th March 2015, 03:24 PM
I think that will be the rear door they need to be adjusted or tape wrapped around it,
Have a search for a fix should be there saw it only recently
Dman2603
20th March 2015, 03:37 PM
Cheers! 1 last question I have seen NADS being mentioned a lot! Is this mainly for early ZD30s or is it better to be safe than sorry on all?
4bye4
20th March 2015, 03:47 PM
Cheers! 1 last question I have seen NADS being mentioned a lot! Is this mainly for early ZD30s or is it better to be safe than sorry on all?
Supposed to be fixed in the GU 3 GU4 era but better to be safe IMO.
mudski
20th March 2015, 07:02 PM
Cheers ET I just did some research & came to the same conclusion!!
So on that note check the oil immediately??
On another note. When approaching 3000+ revs the open door light comes on, on the dash! Dodgy electrics? & when door open interior light doesn't come on but flashes when door is closed! & does work when put to on position!
Cheers for all the help guys!! Still kind of regretting this at the moment!!
If your turbo if fubar and needs replacing, Forefront industries do a new turbo with a billet impellor fitted. Supposed to give faster spool up etc etc, but they are only around the $800 mark, compared to around $1500 for a genuine one. Plus they warrant their stuff too.
Your rear door issue. Unbolt the lower catch that is on the body of the car and turn it upside down. Ifs more than likely worn out, this and the dove tail bumper stop is probably too. Common thing on the Patrols....
Cheers! 1 last question I have seen NADS being mentioned a lot! Is this mainly for early ZD30s or is it better to be safe than sorry on all?
As 4bye4 mentioned... But its not about being safer on the later motors, although it has happened to a members later DI Patrol (The big bang), its more about taking control over from the ECU at what a miserable job it does on controlling the turbo. Even the CRD's benefit greatly from these two valves. Block the EGR too. Those are engine chokers...
And you've come from a Clubsport. Did you lose a bet or something?
Dman2603
21st March 2015, 12:05 AM
And you've come from a Clubsport. Did you lose a bet or something?
Bahahaha yeah nah mate! Just fancied a change! You can't go fast anymore or you loose your car & licence! & I'm just getting abit too old to be still called a boy racer!! I would now prefer to explore off-road!!
Dr Gary
21st March 2015, 12:34 PM
Cheers ET I just did some research & came to the same conclusion!!
So on that note check the oil immediately??
On another note. When approaching 3000+ revs the open door light comes on, on the dash! Dodgy electrics? & when door open interior light doesn't come on but flashes when door is closed! & does work when put to on position!
Cheers for all the help guys!! Still kind of regretting this at the moment!!
My new 2006 GU 3.0 came with a faulty door light setup--turns out the door was too far from the switch. I put some double sided tape on the door where it touches the switch--problem solved
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