04 gu bus...

[mullet_hunter]

Hi all i finally got my rig.. i wish i could say im impressed but im not.. first day and a shit load of gremlims...

Front door central locking was playn up.. couldnt lock it frm inside or outside now the p.o.s locks but wont unlock so u have to enter n exit out either passenger side or rear doors... anyone else had this problem?

2nd is the previous owner just got the bus serviced.. he went to give engine bay a clean with water nw its got a high idle and to make it even worse it doesnt wont to start nw?... take like around 10-15 atempts til it finally decides to kick over... he reckoms it might be the glow plugs but who knws... sub tank pump aparently shit itself the other day and he replaced it with new one.. so maybe it has air in the system? I popd bonnet and gave it a couple quick pumps til its hrd to depress... i dnt knw if it helps but sometimes it will start after this/plus a few atempts at cranking it...But its still idles high then drops dwn to normal thn idles high.. like its got a mind of its own... any feedback apreciated...

3rd is it has dual battey setup wiv anderson plug and cig socket in rear of bus.. go to plug my fridge in then aloud pop and headunit up the fronts no longer wrkn.. wtf?

4th.. it has the biggest death wobbles arnd the 70-80k...

5th no nad mods/gauges which means less money in my pocket...

All the above happening in less than 12hrs of recieving vehicle...

I understand being a 2nd hand vehicle its not perfect but first impressions.. i dont think im totally convinced the patrol is all its talked upto be...

[katwoman]

All this since you bought it ?? Did you test drive and look at it first ? Maybe you should get your money back. Sounds like a sh!t load of bad luck.
Some one recently had door latch problems. I'm sure some one else here can help with the issues. There normally is.

[mullet_hunter]

ye did test drive.. just alot of bad luck.. was all good last week.. nw not so much...not realy impressed thus far..

[BigRAWesty]

Geeze mate not to be rude but you must have not done much on the test drive..

Any forum in the world will mention death wobbles, and how to check.

Sounds like a dodge wiring job.

Now the starting? I'll assume it happened when you picked it up? If so why didn't you walk away??

I understand buying a new car is exciting and the brain fades a bit. But only one of the mentioned issues and a car thing. The rest is owner induced.

[threedogs]

Hey Mullet on the lower right side of the dash near your knee
is a quick idle switch[rocker] that may have been bumped

Check your wheel bearings [front]
How did it pass a RW????

check all your fuel and vacuum lines for cracks etc

[mullet_hunter]

Me and the previous owner are both dumb founded... ive done stax amount of research budd.. everyone telln me dnt get a patrol blah blah... drove it last week and it went realy well as mentioned in my intro post... so much that i thought id get rid of my 80 and get the gu... had a slight vibration arnd same speed just not as bad as nw.... dont get me wrong it still drives nice... but just the night befor he (pevious owner) was going to drive it up2 mine he thought he would give engine bay a quick clean thats when he said it started idleing high.. he showed me that switch on the right hand side that makes the bus idle high and said it might have sumthing to do with it... then he said water might have got dwn into the glow plugs as it wasnt startn first click... im sure its all only small things just doing my head in that it literally started happing the day i get it... any feedback on how to fix my gremlins would muchly be apreciated... also thanks for the feedback recieved thus far... mullet

[happygu]

Hi all i finally got my rig.. i wish i could say im impressed but im not.. first day and a shit load of gremlims...

Front door central locking was playn up.. couldnt lock it frm inside or outside now the p.o.s locks but wont unlock so u have to enter n exit out either passenger side or rear doors... anyone else had this problem?

2nd is the previous owner just got the bus serviced.. he went to give engine bay a clean with water nw its got a high idle and to make it even worse it doesnt wont to start nw?... take like around 10-15 atempts til it finally decides to kick over... he reckoms it might be the glow plugs but who knws... sub tank pump aparently shit itself the other day and he replaced it with new one.. so maybe it has air in the system? I popd bonnet and gave it a couple quick pumps til its hrd to depress... i dnt knw if it helps but sometimes it will start after this/plus a few atempts at cranking it...But its still idles high then drops dwn to normal thn idles high.. like its got a mind of its own... any feedback apreciated...

3rd is it has dual battey setup wiv anderson plug and cig socket in rear of bus.. go to plug my fridge in then aloud pop and headunit up the fronts no longer wrkn.. wtf?

4th.. it has the biggest death wobbles arnd the 70-80k...

5th no nad mods/gauges which means less money in my pocket...

All the above happening in less than 12hrs of recieving vehicle...

I understand being a 2nd hand vehicle its not perfect but first impressions.. i dont think im totally convinced the patrol is all its talked upto be...


First .... Your drivers door is locked now, and won't unlock? If this is the case, then you are in a bit of trouble with this, as if you can't get it to unlock, then you will have to remove the inner door trim to get to the lock itself ( which may mean that you need to destroy the trim by cutting a hole in the door trim on the inside, or you can remove the front guard, undo the door hinges, and swing it away enough to pop off the trim but that is a lot of effort ).

I would take it off-road on some bumpy stuff, and see if you can get the lock to jiggle a bit, and try again .... you could be lucky


Second...... I would get under the bonnet with a water dispersant, such as WD40, and spray all the electrical connections - even unplugging, then spray and reconnect - with the ignition off so you don't introduce any extra fault codes


Third .... this must have been something you have done, as it was fine before you plugged in ... Check fuses, and then check the polarity of the plug against the polarity of the wiring of your fridge with a multimeter and your eyes too

Fourth .... Patrols can have slight wobbles in the steering wheel - that is a known issue, but these should be minimal ... check the wheels and tyres - rotate the back to the front to see if it makes a difference. If you then need to, get you tyres balanced at the tyre dealer you trust, then re-assess from there.

Fifth .... can't help you

[BigRAWesty]

well first up.. NADS.. your going to need to do that. Rip the intake manifold off and clean it all out, even the intercooler.

Then wobbles.. this could be so many things.. heaps of info on this issue to.. tighten wheel bearings first as td said, then try greasing the pivot points.. greasing will give a short temp fix, and if works shows joints need replacing.

Im not convinced water around the plugs would affect the starting.. maybe replace them as they are a failure point on the di 3ltr.. so preventative maintenance is key.

you say priming the pump it goes stiff.. thats good. shouldnt be any air in the line, unless you have a leak. so maybe prime it and then search the fuel lines for any wet spots..

stick with it though mate.. once going well itll be all that much sweeter..

[threedogs]

X 2 spray every electrical connection you can see under the bonnet, even disconnect the battery for a while
as you do it, Find all your earth straps and re do them.
Another good thing to do is Hose the bottom of the radiator from the inside as a lot of dust /mud settles there

wobble could be a number of things , bearings easy fix,, wheel balance easy fix or bushes
Park it in the sun with the bonnet up nice and hot over in WA to dry out the engine bay

[4bye4]

Might have to stand back and take one step at a time. Just thinking though, if everything was ok then this all happened after a wash, it may be that some wireing was moved and is not connecting or shorting. The WD40 trick may proove somthing. Also I would do an eyeball of all wireing harness and connections that may have been disturbed. Might also be worth checking the wireing to the new sub tank pump. I'm thinking anderson plug, wiring to new fuel transfer pump and blowen fuses may be connected.
As for the death wobbles - that a seperate thing. Try moving wheel around as suggested. Could be as simple as a ballance weight fallen off.
Just work your way through it.

[mullet_hunter]

First .... Your drivers door is locked now, and won't unlock? If this is the case, then you are in a bit of trouble with this, as if you can't get it to unlock, then you will have to remove the inner door trim to get to the lock itself ( which may mean that you need to destroy the trim by cutting a hole in the door trim on the inside, or you can remove the front guard, undo the door hinges, and swing it away enough to pop off the trim but that is a lot of effort ).

I would take it off-road on some bumpy stuff, and see if you can get the lock to jiggle a bit, and try again .... you could be lucky


Second...... I would get under the bonnet with a water dispersant, such as WD40, and spray all the electrical connections - even unplugging, then spray and reconnect - with the ignition off so you don't introduce any extra fault codes


Third .... this must have been something you have done, as it was fine before you plugged in ... Check fuses, and then check the polarity of the plug against the polarity of the wiring of your fridge with a multimeter and your eyes too

Fourth .... Patrols can have slight wobbles in the steering wheel - that is a known issue, but these should be minimal ... check the wheels and tyres - rotate the back to the front to see if it makes a difference. If you then need to, get you tyres balanced at the tyre dealer you trust, then re-assess from there.

Fifth .... can't help you

Cheers apreciate ur help/feedback

[mullet_hunter]

Thanks all for the feedback... original plan was to drive new bus upto kalbarri fora long weeknd.. that plan didnt go as exspected so loaded up the 80 and about to hit the road... will be getn into diagnosing the problems when i get back on sunday... i dont like the thought of having to remove guard or butcher the trim to get at the lock mechanism... again thanks for all the help.. and more than willing to hear any other recomendations/feedback... will post pics and post details of what i find when i get bak frm my trip... hopefully catch a good mullaway so im not fealn so dwn...

[BigRAWesty]

It'll be a bit of stuffing around but I'd remove the drivers seat. That'll make it easier to remove the trim

[Bob]

It'll be a bit of stuffing around but I'd remove the drivers seat. That'll make it easier to remove the trim

X2 Westy.....

[mullet_hunter]

how do i change my thread name to my gu lemon?

[mullet_hunter]

Just got back frm trip upto kalbarri...
Fishn was good.. slayed a few tailer n a mothr mallawayy anda couply sharks...

[mullet_hunter]

Started on fixing the gremlins today... pulled out old head unit and replaced with new one.. wiring was dodge job.. twisted wires wiv silver duct tape everywhere... power wires frm the battery non fused and going to nowhere... also looked into why the door will lock/unlock but why it wont open the drivers door frm both the inside or out... seems the lockn mechanism has called quits. So getn price for new one and for locksmith to fit it up... wasnt keen on spendn a good part of a day trying to remove door trim n fit up another lock mechanism... so thought id palm that job off to the experts..

[mullet_hunter]

Tomorrow will remove all plug/sensor wires and wd40 them.. leave the hood up and hopefully giv the engine bay a good dry out... also look at replacing glow plugs...hopefully sort out this random high idle/hrd starting issue...

[mullet_hunter]

Will also be lookn at getn wheels balanced to help iliminate the death wobble...

[mullet_hunter]

Pic of my bus/lemon... hopefully sort out the gremlins and she wil do me proud...

[threedogs]

Hey Mullet its not a lemon , but it does highlight the previous owner had no idea what they were doing..
I cant wait to see the smile on your face when its all sorted, hang in there.
There is a dedicated fishing thread so you can share your catch its called "anything fishing"
Nice Mulloway BTW would have tested your gear lol

[mullet_hunter]

Cheers 3dogs.. well nissan want 350 for the lock mechanism... and id say another couple hundy in labour for locksmith to get door open, remove trim/old lock asembly and fit up new lock mechanism... ouch..

[mullet_hunter]

Also put the bus into shop to see if they can pickup any errors wiv there scan tool and to have a look at the high idle/hrd startn problem...

[mullet_hunter]

Once i get the bus sorted/startn and drivn all good then i can start the nad mods.. yeow..

[threedogs]

Like I said you'll be very surprised when its all sorted.
PM Mudski for your NADS when you get around to it

[mullet_hunter]

Ye ive got nads frm mudski already to go.. n a few othr goodies..

[mullet_hunter]

Hpd goodies.. catch can n maf housing...

[mullet_hunter]

Pillar pod...

[mullet_hunter]

New set of autometer cobalts...

[mullet_hunter]

A whole bunch of twin core, relays and switches for accesories.. beintech rear panel on order and hpd billet airbox lid... will wire up my leds once i throw roof rack onto my bus... also need to finish wiring up sub and amp and upgrade speakers to 6 and half inch splits/componant speakers...

[threedogs]

You can put a toggle switch on the pod too I have my cruise controll ON/OFF light there.
The centre console surrounding your radio unit'is basically empty behind
I've put a few switches and gauges there. I have the hand piece for the UHF
on the other side

[mullet_hunter]

Well i got a phone call frm automasters where i put the bus into to get checkd out.. they cnt find why the idle/hrd startn issue but reckon it might be fuel pump related? Sub tank pump was replaced last week so wandering if the high idle/hrd startn is related...

[mullet_hunter]

Any thoughts on what would cause my bus to idle high and make it hrd to start? Once started drives mint...startn to do my head in...

[Three Speed]

Hey MH,
Had uneven idle on my 04 ST,annoying but not bad,just like i had turned the aircon on then off,maybe only 50 to 70 rpm,then flick the throttle and it would settle again,2 weeks later the alternator signed off,replaced that and now nice stable idle,guess its got something to do with volts going to the MAF,hope this helps,front door lock mech.went on mine as well,keep trying to work it,it may unlock,yep i agree 350 is pretty steep for a door lock,maybe try a secondhand one?

[threedogs]

Easy enough fix with the maf disconnect the battery while you remove the MAF and spray it
Make sure its dry before you replace it, Bloody MAFs controll a lot of things, Super Cheap sell cleaner

[mullet_hunter]

Thanks guys il clean maf and see if it fixes anything...

[mullet_hunter]

Pulled off battery... Pulled all sensors and sprayed with wd40.. Pulled maf.. How do I clean it? Just spray the shit out of the plastic housing?

55407

[4bye4]

Yea spray it with MAF cleaner. don't spray it with WD40. Just hold it by the plastic housing, don't touch the wire, over a bit of kitchen paper and spray with MAF cleaner. That will drip off and you will see any oil on the kitchen paper.. let it dry and put it back in. good idea to disconnect the battery for 1/2 hour or so to reset the engine management.

[mullet_hunter]

Thanks 4by4... Will do.. Also pulled inter cooler off.. Intake pipe is a bit oily.. Not realy bad still enough to see it on my finger with a few swipes...

55408

[mullet_hunter]

Gave maf a good spray with crc mass air flow sensor cleaner.. 30 bucks a can.. this what white paper towel look like nw...

55409

[4bye4]

Yea pretty dirty looks like. $30 bucks a can - but you are only gonna do it once maybe twice a year at most. Can should do a couple of years at least.

[mullet_hunter]

New hpd billet maf housing...

55413

[mullet_hunter]

Is this the hose that goes inline with the catch can? The middle one going frm inlet manifold to air intake?

55414

[mullet_hunter]

Catch can mod done... Realy impressed with the quality of hpd gear... We'll designed bit of kit...

55423

[mullet_hunter]

Well installed new hpd maf housing n new hpd catch can... Sprayed and cleaned all sensors.. stil wont start first pop...hmm.. thinking about ripn off intake manifold n givn that a good clean.. replacing glow plugs. Doing nad mods and start on pillar pod n gauges... also need to leave it at locksmiths for good part of a day to get my drivers door lock mechanism sorted... hopefully others that hav similar problems cn learn frm this thread... will post pics n update thread as i go through mods n problem solvn gremlinz...

[mullet_hunter]

After a bit of swearing and frustration managed to get the door open... gona take off the lock mechanism and give it a clean and see if its not completely gone.. if i can save myself 350 frm buyn a new lock mech frm nissan thn happy days...

[Three Speed]

Good luck with that,mine completely gone,think i read somewhere a bloke put in some roll pins where the factory rivets had worn,they act as pivots and wont allow the unlock mechanism to function properly or lock as the case may be,as for starting is it cranking fast enough,an electrician told me starter motors are looking to fail after about 10 years,dunno if thats true.

[mullet_hunter]

hi 3speed.. little update.. tried to clean/and get the lock mech workn.. no luck.. its as u described above.. will open and shut just won't lock.. so off to wangara tomorrow for new one...at least i saved a couple hundy in labour getn the door trim removed n the door opened.. also since i cleaned all sensors including maf sensor.. its improved.. like it usually starts first click or sometimes upto 3-5 clicks as before it was taking around 10-15 clicks to it finally decided to start... still has the random high idle problem in the background... am going to check all earth straps tomorrow.. have a look at the starter and alternator... its gotta be something small.. cause once started it drives mint... just not happy when it doesnt start first click... once i get high idle and hrd start issue sorted i can get started on nad mods, install my new gauges.. finish upgrading sound system and wire up my led lights... few things on the go..

[happygu]

hi 3speed.. little update.. tried to clean/and get the lock mech workn.. no luck.. its as u described above.. will open and shut just won't lock.. so off to wangara tomorrow for new one...at least i saved a couple hundy in labour getn the door trim removed n the door opened.. also since i cleaned all sensors including maf sensor.. its improved.. like it usually starts first click or sometimes upto 3-5 clicks as before it was taking around 10-15 clicks to it finally decided to start... still has the random high idle problem in the background... am going to check all earth straps tomorrow.. have a look at the starter and alternator... its gotta be something small.. cause once started it drives mint... just not happy when it doesnt start first click... once i get high idle and hrd start issue sorted i can get started on nad mods, install my new gauges.. finish upgrading sound system and wire up my led lights... few things on the go..

Well done on getting the door open ....

My advice is to change the lock mechanism as soon as possible as they can also fail after they get worn when the door is shut but not locked, so now it is open don't muck around with it

[threedogs]

Getting there buddy getting there ,have you tried swapping the
EMC relay with the aircon one yet to see if that improves things.
then swap them back

[mullet_hunter]

ye I'm off to replace door mech today not to keen on a repeat with trying to get the door unlocked again.. lol was a mission...cheers for that tip 3dogs.. will give it a go and see if anything improves/changes... slowly get there...

[threedogs]

Think of it this way ,,,,by the time you sort it all out you will know your Patrol inside and out.
That has to be a good thing lol

[mullet_hunter]

New door mech.. 350 alone.. Clips and actuators are all extra... So I have to combine my old wiv new to make one complete working unit..Lol.. Also while driven to Nissan I had air-con on... Noticed that when i put the foot dwn the air con would blow more air/at least sound louder and would be in sync with revs... Almost like I would up the revs befor gear gange and so would aircon.. Change gear and revs drop n aircon go bak to normal... I'm wandering if this is all related.. Like if it idles high you can turn aircon on and revs drop then skittle bit late revs go bak up u can turn aircon on n off again and it drops the high idle... Only little things but still doing my head in...

55488

[threedogs]

check the voltage at the back of the alternator and see what you get
also check battery voltage while you're at it,
Re read what 3speed said.

How oily was your IC, you said it was oily when you took it off,
give it a clean with petrol and tape up one end and pressurize it
with a bike pump, unless of course you have a tigged one already.
Make sure the IC is dry before you re install it,[hair dryer]

[4bye4]

Hmmm. Electric door lock playin up, starter sounds like it cranking slow, engine bay recently washed... Im thinking the GU high resistance earth syndrome. I would be checking the engine bay and all connections for corrosion or loose plugs. Arm yourself with a can of wd40 and go exploring. Rear of alternator as said above, battery terminals and lugs and the earth connections to the starter motor itself. that air conditioner fan slowing down with revs sounds like high resistance earth somewhere. Try the same thing with your lights on high beam. If it voltage related it will probably be worse. could also effect your original hard start prob if low volts = glows not getting as hot as they could quickly = slow cranking = hard start.
Its possible that high internal resistance batteries can give good volt reading but no good under load. Might be worth getting a autl lectrickery bloke or mechanic to do a load test on battery.

[mullet_hunter]

Thnks for all the advice guys.. Just havn a crack at finish fixing this door lock... Just so hot outside.. It doesn't crank slow.. It just likes to play wiv my feelings.. Wil start first pop like 3-4 times in a row and I'm like ah ok I might had fixed it nxt Minit it won't start til like 5th click. Lol.. Once I finsh this lock mech.. Il check alt n batt voltages and report back... Once again thnks to all those who have commented and helped out...

55490

Pic of my hybrid.. Old + new = hopefully fixed.. Lol

[threedogs]

did you notice how a few of us all went for battery/alternator/bad earth

[mullet_hunter]

Yep just about to check earth straps.. Battery.. Relays and lose wiring, alternator etc... Quick update.. We'll I finally fixed door lock mech.. Locks and unlocks with key frm inside n out.. Central locking all wrkn etc... Happy days.. I thought befor I throw door card back on i would upgrade front speakers with a spare set of 6.5 inch pioneer splits I had lying arnd.. Will quickly put these bad boys in and if this sun eases up il have a crack at checkn all the above...

[threedogs]

Shite Mullet the sun is still shining here so you have plenty of "sun light" left lol

[mullet_hunter]

I knw.. Haha getn sweaty as forehead...

[BigRAWesty]

Great to see your having a win mate.
One step at a time hey.

So if you have access to a multi meter check what the alternator is doing. Sounds like it could possible be on the way out.

But getting there

[mullet_hunter]

Check both batterys.. both look good.. how do i check the alternator? Just peel red plug at top of alternator and check frm there?

[mullet_hunter]

Ok checkd alternator.. and its all good.. pumpn out 14 votls of electrical goodness... quick visual n feel of earth straps.. they look all good.. tight/clean and no fraying... the more i do and look the easier it is to start... it will start first click.. 5 at the most.. as compared to easy 10-15 atempts befor i startd tryn to solv the high idle/hrd statn... go new set of glowiez.. not cheap but i wnt to change them too.. just want to elimnate all possibiltys so i can have this bad boy running mint....do these have like a stepper motor for the high idle switch or when u turn on aircon? Another quick question... where can u feed through wires frm engine bay through firewall? Need to feed through my amp wiring and another power cord for gauges etc...

[mullet_hunter]

Ok found a better way of getn wires through firewall... push them through frm under the dash.. as its to hrd to get them through frm the engine bay side cause of the brake booster... fused.. soldered and heat shrinked. I only like to do things once/right the first time... none of this silver ducktape nonsence like what was in here befor. Lol

[BigRAWesty]

I think on your model its all electronic. So no puller for the ac, it's all electronic signal.

[mullet_hunter]

Ye im guessn it could be a sensor... well 3 hrs later and i just finsh cleaning up all the wiring.. all new terminals, heat shrinked and everything covered in corrugated tubing.. everything fused and tidy.. nw just need to finsh running rca n amp power cord to rear tomorrow then happy days.. start havn a crack and puting my new gauges in...

[mullet_hunter]

check the voltage at the back of the alternator and see what you get
also check battery voltage while you're at it,
Re read what 3speed said.

How oily was your IC, you said it was oily when you took it off,
give it a clean with petrol and tape up one end and pressurize it
with a bike pump, unless of course you have a tigged one already.
Make sure the IC is dry before you re install it,[hair dryer]

Intercooler wasnt oily.. just the ic piping? Will test for peace of mind tho... cheers

[BigRAWesty]

Intercooler wasnt oily.. just the ic piping? Will test for peace of mind tho... cheers

Possibly cleaned prior to sale.
If it's not to much trouble pull the hosing off the intake manifold and check.

If your keen one way of cleaning spot and carbon is a water methanol injection.
Google it. It's very interesting. Lol. When you have a sec.

[mullet_hunter]

I've already pulled the inter cooler and no oil in and around... Just a bit of oil inside inter cooler pipes.. Will tape up and check for bubbles with bike pump.. . And will see what boost gauge has to say once installed... If it leaks then il be getn me a new one... No biggy.. I was gona splash out and get either a cross country or monster inter cooler but will most probly settle for a tigged up factory replacement...

[4bye4]

Try this mob mate. I got one and works fine.
http://www.brownsradiators.com.au/shop/?category=Intercoolers&number=3&subcategory=Nissan_CAC

[mullet_hunter]

Cheers for the heads up...

[mullet_hunter]

Will be needing a new set of shoes for the bus pretty soon/when the funds permitt.... Lookn at going 33x12.5s and going to go muddies again... What's everyone running? Pics, prices, recommendations?

[threedogs]

May I suggest you go 305s they look better
these are Mickey T MTZs

[threedogs]

I've already pulled the inter cooler and no oil in and around... Just a bit of oil inside inter cooler pipes.. Will tape up and check for bubbles with bike pump.. . And will see what boost gauge has to say once installed... If it leaks then il be getn me a new one... No biggy.. I was gona splash out and get either a cross country or monster inter cooler but will most probly settle for a tigged up factory replacement...

Just saying for the price CC charge for their IC do you think your EGTs will justify the price
I have a tigged OE number my EGTs sit on 200c-300c all day long, and idle at 150c
I cant justify the cost for your return, got to remember its only a 4 cylinder.
you dont want HP you want Torque and trucks loads of it if possible.
money better spent elsewhere IMO

[mullet_hunter]

Just saying for the price CC charge for their IC do you think your EGTs will justify the price
I have a tigged OE number my EGTs sit on 200c-300c all day long, and idle at 150c
I cant justify the cost for your return, got to remember its only a 4 cylinder.
you dont want HP you want Torque and trucks loads of it if possible.
money better spent elsewhere IMO

Cheers 3dogs.. yep im hearing ya... also advised by other forum members tigged factory replacement is the way to go... ye i like the agressive tread pattern of the micky t's... but i dont like there agressive price tag... haha

[mullet_hunter]

Aw and 3dogs... nice lookn rig.. gota be happy with that ayy.. mind u are we ever satisfyed? Lol

[threedogs]

I like your HJ ute or what ever is in your Avatar;
ATM Im after an early holden wagon 59-64, want to slot a V6 commodore and auto in it
for a daily driver

[mullet_hunter]

This was my hz prem... swaped for my new bus.. plus cash my wayy...pic of my old hj one tonner.. 355 stroker.. sold that also.. just a couple of many old holdens ive had ovr the years...

[mullet_hunter]

The trusty 80... my bro in law just bort this off me...

[threedogs]

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/321223558370?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Here's a reasonably priced tigged IC for your consideration if yours is US

[mullet_hunter]

Cheers 3dogs...

[mullet_hunter]

Finshed installing sound system yesturday... sounds so much better with amp subs and 6x9s in the back... also installed a 10 fuse panel up frnt under dash.. 5 constant. 5 keyd powr... makes it so much easier to wire up rocker switches/relays and power acc than running wires through firewall to battery...hopefully get some power through to these gauges if i get some time today...

[mullet_hunter]

Still has the hrd startn issue and high idle... do these have like a crank sensor?

[mullet_hunter]

Gauges are in... Just need to tap into boost n drill hole for pyro...

55566

[threedogs]

yes and its a biatch to get to its called a crank angle sensor.
They changed mine as the patrol was going into limp mode all the time

Love your work

Nice place right of that top gauge for a toggle switch for something
Dont you need to weld a bung for the pyro????

[BigRAWesty]

Looking good mate.
Keep it rolling.
Sorry if you've written it but have you changed glow plugs yet?

[mullet_hunter]

In the kit it comes with either a clamp fitting where you just drill hole and tightn clamp to dump pipe.. when funds permit il upgrade to 3 inch exhaust and get them to weld in the bung.. has adapter fitting so u can run either.. just not keen on taking off dump pipe to weld in bung.. too fiddly in this hot weather.. haha id rather just drill a hole.. n maybe tap it.. should work alright for nw...

[mullet_hunter]

yes and its a biatch to get to its called a crank angle sensor.
They changed mine as the patrol was going into limp mode all the time

Love your work

Nice place right of that top gauge for a toggle switch for something
Dont you need to weld a bung for the pyro????

Ye my mate reckn it might be the crank angle sensor.. its got to be sum little scummy sensor messn things up with the high idle and hrd starting... slowing getn there...

[threedogs]

they ended up pulling half the front of my motor off to get to it.
took most of the day, but fixed the limp mode problem

[mullet_hunter]

We'll I took the bus out for bit of a thrash dwn the beach out 2 rocks ways.. I reckon once I sort the hrd startn and high idle I might have a half decent 4 wheel drive... Was cutting lose in only 2 wheel drive.. I can't fault it compared to my 80 except for one thing.. It has a crap turning circle... Which makes it so much harder to turn around in small spaces... So I'd dear say I'd scored me some custom bush pin stripping frm today's efferts... Hope everyone out enjoyn there long weeknd...

[4bye4]

Gauges are in... Just need to tap into boost n drill hole for pyro...

55566

Hey mate, did you buy the gauges and pod as a kit or bit by bit. Also where did you get them?

[BigRAWesty]

Yea that's a down fall of unbreakable drive line.
The gu is a much nicer rig than the 80. So once you get your issues sorted I have no doubt you'll be a happy man.

[mullet_hunter]

ye the ups are starting to out weight the downs... as in before when i had to use to jump through the passenger door to get in.. then hit the key and no start.. i would instantly get the shits.. lol.. now doors sorted.. ice cold air-con on hot days like today.. sound system all hooked up.. boost/pyro gauges in.. all the electrical wiring cleaned up/sorted and semi easy startn when turning the key... haha slowly get there..

[mullet_hunter]

Hey mate, did you buy the gauges and pod as a kit or bit by bit. Also where did you get them?

hi 4by4..
got everything from flea bay.. all from different sellers...
i was going to go with red arc gauges by I'm happy i went with the autometer cobalts...
they look really trick especially at night.. they suit my blue head unit and blue lcd on my uhf... I just ordered me some blue led lights for my dash cluster and some for my in cab middle and rear dome lights.. and a led strip kit for rear barn doors... gonna make her look like a spaceship at night... haha na.. but i do think it gives the bus a new modern look that the boring old standard lights in there at the moment...

[mullet_hunter]

Quick qustion regarding sub tank... how does this work.. you push the sub button and does it syphoon diesel frm sub to main tank? Filled my sub tank and had only quarter in main tank.. hit sub tank button and then nxt time i jumpd in car sub tank was reading quarter empty? Is this normal? Lol

[threedogs]

Now who's turned their frown upside down Ha Ha Ha

Theres your next big mod fit a 75 ltr AUX tank

[happygu]

Quick qustion regarding sub tank... how does this work.. you push the sub button and does it syphoon diesel frm sub to main tank? Filled my sub tank and had only quarter in main tank.. hit sub tank button and then nxt time i jumpd in car sub tank was reading quarter empty? Is this normal? Lol

Sub Tank empties into the main tank via a transfer pump ....

The transfer pump will also pump a small amount of fuel into the main tank every time you start the truck ( about 10 seconds of operation ), if the main tank isn't full.

[happygu]

Also, when you hit the sub tank button, it starts transferring fuel, but the gauge doesn't react straightaway .... There seems to be a small lag between fuel use and the dash gauge.....

[BigRAWesty]

Quick qustion regarding sub tank... how does this work.. you push the sub button and does it syphoon diesel frm sub to main tank? Filled my sub tank and had only quarter in main tank.. hit sub tank button and then nxt time i jumpd in car sub tank was reading quarter empty? Is this normal? Lol

Yes the patrols use a transfer system unlike Toyota. It has it's ups and downs.

The stock sub tank from memory is only 40 litres. So an 75 ltr tank is a good upgrade. Near double its capacity.

Another little nod I've done in my and is free that gets you more fuel capacity its the tank breather mod.

Simply remove the fuel pickup for the main tank. The gq is assessable threw the rear floor, not sure about the gu's.
But if you feel around the top of the tank over near the filler side you'll find a tube running about 50mm from the top of the tank.
This is the fast fill breather. Once fuel reaches this it starts coming up the filler.

So simply force this tune to the tank roof.
This will fill that air gap with fuel.
I get 115ltrs in mine. A mate can get 120... It all depends on how hard you push lol.

[mullet_hunter]

Haha cheers all... I guess I was use to how it works on a Toyota.. Happy days.. Ye turning that frown upside dwn realy quick...

[mullet_hunter]

anyone got tips for easiest way to remove turbo sheild.. open to all tips/tricks... been doing a little research.. 6 bolts and rotate clockwise? planning to remove heat shield and install my pyro into my dump pipe... then maybe finish my dawes and needle valve... might also see if i can get a bung from masters up the rd so i can weld it into my intercooler piping for boost pickup...

[happygu]

One of the bolts on the top of the shield - towards the back of the motor is a dummy bolt, and you don't need to undo it ....

I did have a thread about it a while ago, from when I did mine

[mullet_hunter]

Too easy might shoot u a pm if i get stuck..cheers mullet..

[threedogs]

This looks like a good way to increase air flow, looks easy enough to do,,, now to source to parts
If you or Mudski could suss out sizes it would be great

[happygu]

Here is the thread for you .... search for this : 3 Litre CRD Heat Shield on Dump Pipe

or try this

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?21164-3-Litre-CRD-Heat-Shield-on-Dump-Pipe

[mullet_hunter]

Well i went out early this morning to have a crack at removn heat shield.. bolts were rediculously tight even with a heap of wd40 sprayed over them.. managed to crack/losen 5 of the bolts.. the one at the back is rounded so my socket was just spinning.. will have to get out the dremel n cut out arnd the bolt or something.. or otherwise try smash a 11mm onto the bolt head n have a crack with that.. but i think id rather save that job for another dayy...

[threedogs]

Very nice , gauges present well too,
late model flares will fit, just letting you know

[mullet_hunter]

Is that ur setup 3dogs, tidy.. in terms of better airflow.. i plan on getn a 4 inch stainless snorkle installed from either moonlight fabrication or ontrack fabrication.. 4 inch all the way to airbox then 4 inch to 3 inch silicone adapter then use hpd billet airflow lid and hdp billet maf housing.. there should be minimal air restriction with this setup.. ad mentioned by musdki he could run upto 30 pound with no limp issues... also lookn at upgrading to 3 inch exhaust.. which should also compliment all the above mods...

[threedogs]

Its only a 3 ltr mate not a strocked 383, make it efficient by all means
but performance mods .lol, I'd be making it as light as I could and any
motor mod would be to inprove fuel consumption
It would be like two snails having a drag
Stainless does look good satin brushed
Nah not mine BTW this is mine no engine cover

[mullet_hunter]

Well i ended up getn heat shield out.. and original dump pipe off... had to smash the head off the rear bolt on heat shield as it was a bit too rounded off and the paper trick wasnt working... id say previous owner or someone must of tryed to have a crack at removn the heat shield and gave up after rounding the first bolt.. lol.. anyhows i decided i was gonna upgrade dump pipe since i had to order a bung for the pyro anyways... scored me a new manta dump pipe, gasket and couple bungs for 140... so welded in bung on dump pipe for pyro and welded in bung into intercooler pipe for boost pickup.. pyro workn like a treat.. my boost gauge aint working cause i accidently tossed out the fittings to go frm the nylon line to the brass fitting. Lol.. tryed to do roadkill/back yard cable tie fix but it dint wnt too play the game.. so will have a look at fixing something up tomorrow so i can get a cortect boost signal...

[mullet_hunter]

Quick question.. Do I have to run the hrd nylon hose for my boost gauge or can I change fitting on back of my gauge and run vac tube?

[threedogs]

I have teflon except where I "teed" into it I used small pieces of vacuum hose
For acuracy I would use Teflon/nylon hose/tubing

[mullet_hunter]

My gauge is showing no boost at all.. Thought my gauge might had been faulty.. Hooked it upto my bike hand air pump and I can see the dial moving so gauge is working ok.. So must be leaking boost either out of the inter cooler or inter cooler piping.. Just removed inter cooler nw and gona check for leaks.. What's the preferred method? Tape one side dip it into water and use air pump and look for bubbles?

[mullet_hunter]

Pretty sure this intercooler might be stuffd..i dipd it in water i couldnt see much bubbles.. filled with water n if i turn intercooler frm.side to side i could see a little bit of the water seeping through... this would mean its got to be leaking somewhere ayy..

[threedogs]

Chances are being an 04 model it will be leaking, tape up one side and use a bike pump to pressurise it.
you'll see the bubbles , dry with a hairdryer before installing

[mullet_hunter]

Cheers 3dogs.. id say shes leaking.. might have to jump online and have a look for tigged up replacement... otherwise go with that one frm the link posted up earlier.. thought if it were leaking i would at least get a couple psi through the gauge...

[mullet_hunter]

I dont think mrs has a hair dryer only a ghd thingy... so im just drying it out in the sun...

[mullet_hunter]

Quick update.. i couldnt see much bubbles if any when i was checkn intercooler for leaks but was still convinced she wad leaking.. anyhows checked everything and then noticed this fitting had no hole in it... what the? Anywayd changed it over nw im getting boost.. only thing is its saying im getn way too much... if i giv it the berrys i can get upto 25 pound.. as soon as i change gear it drops to 5-10psi... when i rev i can get upto 20.. but it normally arnd 5-10psi when im just cruising... is my gauge reading right? Shouldnt i be getn limp mode with that much boost? Wanted to get quick comparrison with boost/egt readings befor i block egr n setup dawes n needle valve...

[mullet_hunter]

Heres couply pics of new dump n pyro...
Still might wrap my dump pipe with some exhaust wrap to help keep temps dwn plus ive still got half a spare roll just sitting here in my garage... egt temps usually arnd 2-300 degrees...

[mullet_hunter]

Whats standard boost on these things? 15 pound? Full boost i can get 25psi.. is this normal?

[threedogs]

Mudski has 30 psi mine has 26 psi basically you need 10psi at 100 ks on a flat hwy
then use your needle valve to adjust the spool up rate, .
Normally at idle with the NV closed you slowly open it till the atuator arm falls away on the turbo at that point nip up the NV.
BTW where have you put the EGT bung most have it 150mm post turbo

Std boost is about 15 psi but if you can squeeze abit more without doing any harm why not, again its only a three litre
Btw I think my temps are higher than normal as the egt bung is very close to the turbo
you can just see the bung in this pic way too close imo

[mullet_hunter]

Cheers 3 dogs... I don't know what's going on with mine but I can see upto 25psi.. That's with standard setup... No Dawes/needle valve installed... My pyro bung would be arnd 100-150mm back frm turbo... Looking at investing in a electronic boost controller in the near future so I can run a standard boost setting and a higher 30psi setting once I have enough funds for snorkel and exhaust upgrade...

[threedogs]

Check out Chaz Yellowfoots dual dawes set up Dr Gary just finished his install.
I might change the position of my bung if it doesnt cost an arm and a leg.
I always thought it was 150 down the dump pipe doh

[mullet_hunter]

Finished wiring up my lights on the roof...
Fuses and relay nicey tucked away inside frnt kickpanel.. couple pics of how i ran the wiring...

[lucus30]

I like the way you ran that wire to the roof might have to copy it

[mullet_hunter]

I didnt need any clips or anything... 4mm twin core tucked into that seem outside the windscreen perfecrly...relay and fuses behind drivers side kick panel away frm engine bay temps and possible water and easy as too acess...

[threedogs]

I put my roof light switch here,plenty of room behind for more as well

[mullet_hunter]

Plan on running my dual battery gauge in that spot...like you said a lot of room there..

[threedogs]

Yeah thats my aux batt guage there, the main is in front of the instrument cluster.
My 12v clock arrived today 52mm but having trouble figuring out where to put it lol
Also have a small 12v rectangle one, might fit under the batt gauge, not sure ATS

Got another head unit coming the only thing left working
is music on SD card and the TV on this one GGRRRrrrrrr

[mullet_hunter]

can anyone advise me on how i go about trying to get a couple of the forum stickers for my bus? cheers and thanks in advance..

[Clunk]

can anyone advise me on how i go about trying to get a couple of the forum stickers for my bus? cheers and thanks in advance..
Send taslucas a pm mate, he'll sort you out

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Forum Fiend v1.2.10.

[threedogs]

Yo MH what have you done with your old OE MAF housing ???
oh and the OE airbox lid ??

[mullet_hunter]

I plan on keeping the standard airbox lid but the standard maf housing is urs if u want it... Pm me ur address and I can send it to u.. Early Xmas present frm one fellow 04 owner to another...

[threedogs]

cool thanks mate I owe you one
PM sent
do you think the lid and the maf housing makes much difference??

[mullet_hunter]

cool thanks mate I owe you one PM sent do you think the lid and the maf housing makes much difference??

I think hpd have top notch products.. I'm running there catch can, comes with everything.. Hoses bolts etc and I had it installed within 3-5 mins..didn't have to modify or cut anything.. It also functions aswel as it looks... There billet maf housing and billet lids are Awsome aswel.. Can't rate them enough.. I'm running upto 25psi and no limp mode.. Bus pulls hrd...lower egt's... I'm so impressed with hdp products il probly end up going with there intercooler when mine decides to call quits... I've also upgraded my standard dump pipe to a manter item... I'm sure it's compliments the hdp mods I've done so far... Looking at running a electronic boost switch so I can run boost off the ecu and have control of full manual boost control with Dawes n needle valve setup.. When funds allow il be going 4 inch snorkle and 3 inch exhaust.. Then motor/mechanical wise I think il be happy.. Haha

[threedogs]

Cool yell out when you do the snorkel found a mob in China with cheap SS elbows and 45s and stuff.
Blocking the egr will give you full control over boost

[mullet_hunter]

Well a quick update.. After weeks of trying to find out the high idle/hrd starting issue and 3 different workshops later... I've been quoted $4250 to get it fixed... They recon it's the injector pump... Soo pissed.. For that coin I would rather save and put that towards a Ls conversion... I like the patrol but there not as tuff and reliable as everyone makes them out to be...my cruiser never let me down once... The thing I don't understand is if it were the injector pump why would the bus run mint once started? No smoke or nothing out the rear... No cut outs or loss of power? How and why would the ip make it idle high... If anything I would had thought either air in the system.. Or a faulty crank angle sensor giving incorrect readings to the ip.. Something small.. And what's the go with the ip prices? They cost more than the engine? And 7 hrs labour to remove and fit new one?

[4bye4]

Might be worth looking at fitting a lift pump. There is a thread about it here somewhere. i have hed these symptoms on my work truck Kia 2500, and that was fixed with a new IP but it was only the lift pump end that was faulty. They are two pumps in one really, one pulls the fuel from the tank and one pressurises the fuel for the injectors. if the presurisation wasn't working i don't think it woulod run well at any speed. just get an inline pump from repco or somewhere, about 7 -12 psi, and stick it in lline as close to the fuel tank as posible. then connect it up with a couple of wires to your battery, even plug in to the cig lighter socket, and see if it makes any difference. If that fixes the prob fit it properly.

[threedogs]

Big Fletch just did a DIY on the lift pump mod here you go

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?32708-ZD30-Lift-Pump-Mod

[mullet_hunter]

Ye was researching all last night.. Was going to give the lift pump a try.. It's exactly as u describe 4by4... I think it could be the ip but only part of.. If the whole unit was F$&@d then the car wouldn't even start, idle ruff and drive like crap.. Better try a few more options befor completely giving on her... But I knw I def won't be paying the 4250 just for another ip fitted... I can buy a ls2/ls3 for that price...

[threedogs]

Just found a 383 stroker kit for $800 from the states delivered.
My son is giving my cast iron 350 motor to me, not for the patrol though
maybe an early one tonner etc lol

[mullet_hunter]

Talked to the bloke at workshop.. Apparently a lift pump will do stuff all... So looks like il just have to deal with the high idle n hrd startn for awhile... Also wired up my reverse lights but it didn't make me feel any bettr...

56456

[mudski]

Talked to the bloke at workshop.. Apparently a lift pump will do stuff all... So looks like il just have to deal with the high idle n hrd startn for awhile... Also wired up my reverse lights but it didn't make me feel any bettr...

56456

It may. But I would be doing it if it were me.

[mullet_hunter]

Ye I might have a go at fitting lift pump... Also might be worth trolln gumtree for a cheap 2nd hand injector pump or blown zd30 I can take ip, turbo, ic and injectors off...

[Bigcol]

I have found a hell of a lot of "mechanic's" dont know diddly-squat about 3l patrols

I think the 2 biggest things for you to investigate is

1) put in the lift pump.......... for ALL the reasons in Big_Fletch's thread - very logical and simple

2) have a look at fitting a second or even a third extra Earth from the motor to the chassis & gearbox to the chassis - worst thing about Patrols is Earths

my old GQ used to play up in Gas, sometimes start, some times not, sometimes run great cold, but not hot, sometimes run great hot, but not cold, relays get power sometimes, sometimes not..... etc
........ could never work out why, one day, while underneath running some cable for Anderson plug, I thought......."mmmm I might put in an extra earth from Gbox to Chassis while I'm here" - well bugger me with a stick, the Gas stopped playing around
and ran beautifully all the time

[yeah_m8]

I had the same problem, ended up tearing a part of the trim to which this didn't help at all.
It came down to constantly opening and closing locking mechanism and opening an closing door mechanism at the same time until it opened, took about 10mins of doing this before the door came free.
Once opened and removing the whole lock mechanism, I found a small part broke inside, a call around to local parts supplier almost gave me a heart attack, I swear they quoted me prices for gold plated locks, after some deep thinking and a can of ale, I ended up heading to Supercheap and buying some small bits an pieces for less than $10, dismantled, replaced bits, reassembled, installed and the lock is working perfect, it will out last all the other locks.
Once I figured out how and what needed to be done, it's a piss easy job now.

[mullet_hunter]

its been diagnosed by two diesel specialist both are telling me its the injection pump.. will try a lift pump, try another couple earth straps but def not keen on paying the 4 plus k to get it fixed... i looked at baileys diesel group... they can do a change over unit for $2350.. this might be an option if i cant find a cheap 2nd hand unit..

[threedogs]

the carter pump is at least cheapish to do and what have you to lose nothing.
but gain a constant fuel pressure

[mullet_hunter]

Hookd up lift pump late last night.. no improvemnt... u win some.. u lose some.. stil not ready to giv up on her jus yet tho..

[threedogs]

Bummer not good mate

[mullet_hunter]

Ye bit gutted.. but hopefully can pickup a 2nd hand injector pump on the cheap... otherwise save up towards a new baileys pump...

[threedogs]

Im a firm believer in that good things come to good ppl.
and you MH IMO are good ppl, it'll work out without
hurting too much.$$$

[big_fletch]

Couldn't help but notice in one of your pics that the heat switch is on near the switch you put in on drivers side, also known as idle up switch? This isn't still on is it? Just throwing it out there for the high idle problem?

Fletcha

[mullet_hunter]

nah bud def not the high idle switch.. thought it might be related but seems to be the injector pump... but on a better note.. managed to find someone who's got a left over zd30 injector pump after doing a 4.2 conversion... after a bit of chit chat i was offered it for $200.. hoping to pick it up in the next week or so... thats got to be a win...been told its done 220k and was working sweet before conversion so at $200 if it doesn't fix my problem i guess I'm not that much out of pocket.. as my diagnostics cost more than that alone.. lol

[big_fletch]

That's a very good end result I reckon, Can't go wrong with that. Hopefully it fixes it

[mullet_hunter]

if it saves me 4k i will be a happy man... heard removing and replacing the injector pump is a pretty big job so I'm researching my little heart out.. lol.. plus if i get stuck got a good mate who will help me out.. i always belive in giving everything a crack urself before forking over hard earned...the only way to learn imo..

[mullet_hunter]

ok finally finding time to fix the injector pump in my bus... any tips before i start? also u basically have to pull half the engine apart to get at it so which would be easier pull the engine out or just work on it with the engine still in the bay? take tyres off and put bus on jack stands? or put bus on ramp and work from underneath? cheers and thanks in advance...

[mullet_hunter]

Solid day of wrenchn... another solid day tomorrow id sayy...

[mullet_hunter]

180k worth of caked up shite.. haha

[mullet_hunter]

For all u fallas who think its a carnt ovr job to get the heat shield off... thats nothing compared to getn the injector pump out.. haha.. had to take out radiator shroud.. tappet cover.. vacume pump.. power steering.. main battery.. intake manifold.. intercooler.. glow plug seals.. frnt timing case/chain... cut cable ties off loom to get it out the wayy... injector lines.. egr assembly.. haha pretty much strip everything except exhaust manifold n turbo..

[mullet_hunter]

Also found this... looks like its been like that fora while.. suprised no damage.. well not yet anyways.. haha.. throwin in sum new plugs tomorrow.. addn a couple extra earth straps.. all new batt terminals.. new vac lines..new fuel filter.. gaskets and fuel filter and my 2nd hand injector pump i gott.. big job but if it fixes my hrd startn/high idle issue i will be one happy man... plus thats 4g back in my pocket... haha which means new tyres and snorkle, exhaust n few other goodies...

[BigRAWesty]

Also found this... looks like its been like that fora while.. suprised no damage.. well not yet anyways.. haha.. throwin in sum new plugs tomorrow.. addn a couple extra earth straps.. all new batt terminals.. new vac lines..new fuel filter.. gaskets and fuel filter and my 2nd hand injector pump i gott.. big job but if it fixes my hrd startn/high idle issue i will be one happy man... plus thats 4g back in my pocket... haha which means new tyres and snorkle, exhaust n few other goodies...

Geeze mate. A 10 for dedication. That's a hell of a job for an injector pump. Fingers crossed it works.

So the glow plug.. Number 3 cylinder by any chance ?? It is a common problem and sometimes causes the dreaded failures.
From memory people swap to ceramic over tungsten tips to minimise damage if it happens, but ceramic has a shorter life span. So IMO treat the glow plugs like a service item. Say every 50 thou. They are cheap. And if it saves a rebuild.

IMO your this far now I'd order new head Studs and gasket and pull it. Check out the bores,
Valves and Pistons.

But definitely take to cleaning out all those intake pipes and the intercooler. Then block the egr.

Fingers are crossed for ya bloke

[mullet_hunter]

Cheers big Westy... Ye pretty big job.. Intake was pretty caked.. So got like 10 cans of degreaser...got it Lookn like new... Now time for some more fun...

57046

[threedogs]

Does that chain need replacing say at 200K or good to go.
Looks like your getting on top of it
Changing my glow plugs for first time soon,
not giving any probs but 220k now

[BigRAWesty]

Does that chain need replacing say at 200K or good to go. Looks like your getting on top of it Changing my glow plugs for first time soon, not giving any probs but 220k now

Don't forget to flood them with some lubricants before trying.
I'd start now and allow it to heat up and cool a few times.

[BigRAWesty]

Cheers big Westy... Ye pretty big job.. Intake was pretty caked.. So got like 10 cans of degreaser...got it Lookn like new... Now time for some more fun... <img src="http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=57046"/>

Got more patience than me that's for sure

[mullet_hunter]

Managed to get injector pump out and new one in... Just need to finish putting everything bak together....

[BigRAWesty]

Managed to get injector pump out and new one in... Just need to finish putting everything bak together....

With no leftovers lol.

[threedogs]

Dont you hate that one bolt or nut lying on the floor all by itself, lol
Still early over there so hopefully it will fire up later today.

[mullet_hunter]

Its my rest day today.. haha i would had liked to had got a bit more done yesturday but i was multi taksing with lookn after the kids... trying not to cover everything with black greasy fingerprints and putting new 3 inch exhaust, snorkle, curved light barr and clutch on the bros hilux....

[mullet_hunter]

Well got the bus all back together... cleaned all the gunk frm the manifolds... blockd off the egt...getn a solid 30psi at full noise and it pulls hrd.. have a couple left over bolts.. haha must be for a wiring bracket or sumthing but 2 out of about 65 or sumthing isnt to bad. No leaks... no weird noises... the high idle issue is gone... out of 10 times i turned the key it fired up 8 times... so i dont knw whats going on there... it might have a bit of air still in the system or it might need another earth strap... will be adding a couple more earth straps.. one frm battery to block and block to chassis... still only early days but i think i might have fixd my gremlins... haha prety happy right nw... nit to bad for a wood butcher.. 4g bak in my pocket...

[4bye4]

Well got the bus all back together... cleaned all the gunk frm the manifolds... blockd off the egt...getn a solid 30psi at full noise and it pulls hrd.. have a couple left over bolts.. haha must be for a wiring bracket or sumthing but 2 out of about 65 or sumthing isnt to bad. No leaks... no weird noises... the high idle issue is gone... out of 10 times i turned the key it fired up 8 times... so i dont knw whats going on there... it might have a bit of air still in the system or it might need another earth strap... will be adding a couple more earth straps.. one frm battery to block and block to chassis... still only early days but i think i might have fixd my gremlins... haha prety happy right nw... nit to bad for a wood butcher.. 4g bak in my pocket...

................:thumbup:

[BigRAWesty]

Yea sweet outcome.
Did you throw new glow plugs in?

[mullet_hunter]

Ye new glow plugs... new gaskets.. new vacume hoses.. well u wouldnt believe i went out fora quick 4b and on wayy home it started idleing high again.... wtf? Got to be something else besides the injector pump? It was working sweet b4.. no high idle.. easy starting.. nw its like same as b4? Thoughts? Crankle angle sensor, bad earth?

[threedogs]

Did you run some new earths> , bummer I thought it was sorted.
Vacuum hose is cheap enough to replace, Do one thing at a time
swap the blue ECM with the aircon one to test costs nothing
Crank angle went on mine and showed up as an error, symptoms
limp mode, back off and try again ok till it happened again

[mullet_hunter]

Come out a few hrs latr.. started up first pop no high idle... seriously... wtf.. its got to be something silly... havnt done earth straps yet... another idea might be a faulty injector?

[threedogs]

so something has "RE-SET" itself do you think

[mullet_hunter]

will look into more earth straps see if that makes any difference...and check resistance of current earth straps...

[threedogs]

FYI on Tojos they have an earth strap for different sections of the 4x4
EG front of engine bay,,, rear of engine bay,,,, front of cabin etc etc
Good luck with it MH

[4bye4]

How high is high idle?
Is it about 500 rpm higher than normal? These have a high idle switch "sort of a choke" and also hight idle if the aircon is switched on. The switches just tell the engine management to turn it up a bit. Wondering if its missreading and turning the revs up.

[BigRAWesty]

Bugger. Just when you thought you had it.

[mullet_hunter]

I'm pretty convinced it's a electrical issue rather than a mechanical one? When u first start the rig it idles like normal say 700rpm.. When it reaches operating temps/gets a bit warmer.. Revs can go anywhere frm where it sits right up to arnd 1500rpm... If you turn on the aircon the revs will drop then after a while it will idle up again all by itself? Cars starting ok.. If it don't start first pop I just flick the key on and off a couple times and it will fire right up.. Gots me stumpd on what it could be... Disconnected crank angle sensor no different. Temp sender and also boost sensor... Sand papered and cleaned up the earth connections going to the intake manifold.. Changed the blue relays arnd still no diffrence...

[threedogs]

Might need to buy an ECU-TALK $250 or go to Super Cheap and see what error codes come up.
BTW idle is 750RPM,

[mullet_hunter]

its not throwing any codes... last code was apparently injector pump.. i think it might have a lose wire/conection going into the ecu... wheres the ecu in these bad boys?

[4bye4]

its not throwing any codes... last code was apparently injector pump.. i think it might have a lose wire/conection going into the ecu... wheres the ecu in these bad boys?

According to the manual under the lower instrument panel RHS.
I suggested the high idle switch before but reading the symptoms you describe its revving too high to be that. Have you checked the Throttle Position Sensor and wiring? Maybe its not sure where its at so its trying to find a reference point for the throttle.

[mullet_hunter]

I havnt checkd tps.. but i read somewhere that someone had similar symptoms and it was a lose wire going into the back of ecu...my blue leds just turned up today so i gota throw them in behind the instrument cluster so will have a look for any lose/dodgey wires when i do that.. also managed to crack my radiator shroud.. not impressed.. lol.. so brittle.. anyways blak n gold saved the dayy until i decide or get arnd to replacing it with anew one...

[4bye4]

LOL I prefer Cadburys but its all a matter of taste I guess. Good luck with it mate.

[mullet_hunter]

Fixd hair line crack in rear door..

[mullet_hunter]

And finally got arnd to rear door bracket mod.. heaps bettr nw...

[mullet_hunter]

Also splashed out on a set of rear drawers... bargain price so i couldnt say no.. 670 deliverd to my door..Will be making me a new sub box to suit 2 12 inch subz and 2 6x9s and x2 amps... and mounting my arc box for a third battery setup.. and also wiring up compressor in the rear and a few other 12v power outlets. Led strip lighting.. etc etc.. half finishd the blue led dash lighting.. looks a treat... maybe weld up a cage for my fridge etc to maximise space in the back...

[mudski]

Also splashed out on a set of rear drawers... bargain price so i couldnt say no.. 670 deliverd to my door..Will be making me a new sub box to suit 2 12 inch subz and 2 6x9s and x2 amps... and mounting my arc box for a third battery setup.. and also wiring up compressor in the rear and a few other 12v power outlets. Led strip lighting.. etc etc.. half finishd the blue led dash lighting.. looks a treat... maybe weld up a cage for my fridge etc to maximise space in the back...

Where did the drawers come from mate?
It will be interesting to see how long the weld holds up on the crack. I was going to do the same to mine, but decided to brace the entire section from the inside.

[mullet_hunter]

Not 100 percent sure it wont crack again but pretty sure its not gonna happen any time soon... i got phone call frm 4wd supa center... they said to keep prices to myself... but all up the damage was 760 thats for 2 rear seat organisers... and a full set of titan drawers with the rear wings... free freight aswell...was offered heaps of other goodies but pretty much got everythng else they were offering me...

[mudski]

Ya might wanna edit your post then, if you have to keep it to yourself. :tongue:

[mullet_hunter]

Upgraded my headlights to h4 led conversion... so much bettr... just need to do my park light globes as there still dull yellow and look so gay.. haha

[mullet_hunter]

Also got my 4 inch snorkle ordered... should be able to pick it up ina week or two.. will look same as in pics.. black powder coated... will be upgradn exhaust pretty soon to a 3 inch turbo back.. cat n hotdog numbr...

[threedogs]

Upgraded my headlights to h4 led conversion... so much bettr... just need to do my park light globes as there still dull yellow and look so gay.. haha

How is high beam at 100kph, Mate has those fan jobs noisey as when staionary, low beam is ok but he didnt like high beam
like most leds they havent got distance yet, but a nice white light

[mullet_hunter]

There 80 watts so give out a nice white light.. distance is awsome.. cnt even hear the fans...my bro n laws and mates all run them.. sourced locally for 80 a set..but due to there popularity old mates put his price upto 100.. haha but stil id rate these over hid.. full plug and play kit and installed within 10 mins...wish i could had taken comparison shots...

[BigRAWesty]

Also got my 4 inch snorkle ordered... should be able to pick it up ina week or two.. will look same as in pics.. black powder coated... will be upgradn exhaust pretty soon to a 3 inch turbo back.. cat n hotdog numbr...

No offence mate but I hope they do a better install than the pic. That's a hack of an install and heaps of panel removed for no reason.

Apart from that bloke its coming along nicely.

[threedogs]

No offence mate but I hope they do a better install than the pic. That's a hack of an install and heaps of panel removed for no reason.

Apart from that bloke its coming along nicely.

Would not be happy if they cut my guard like that,
normally they just cut a 5" hole for the snorkle to exit the guard

[threedogs]

And finally got arnd to rear door bracket mod.. heaps bettr nw...

theres also a strut mod you can do to keep the door open

[mullet_hunter]

[QUOTE=biggqwesty;599274]No offence mate but I hope they do a better install than the pic. That's a hack of an install and heaps of panel removed for no reason.
haha ye il be installing myself...
cheers

[mullet_hunter]

Well finally put my rear drawers in..put in my blue leds for dash cluster.. aircon panel etc.. wired up my reverse lights to switch up the front... stil dnt know whats up wiv my high idle but besides that the bus is going alright...

[threedogs]

Looking good MH got a dimmer on the gauges,
Is the high idle constant or intermittent
late edit. getting 1.5mm skimmed off the inside of the OE maf housing.
I have most bits to install the new larger intake but the body wont allow me GGGRRrrrrrrrrrr

[mullet_hunter]

It idles up once engine warms up... If I clutch it in gear and slowly let the clutch out and have my other foot on the break it wil drop idle back to normal.. Or if u turn the aircon on...So that's what I usually do when I'm sitn at lights etc... Otherwise it free revs anywhere between 1 n 2k... Gauges are Algood at night.. Just looks bright in pic...

[threedogs]

Whats next on the to do list ??

[threedogs]

http://www.bluechipdiesel.com/vp44_diagnostics.html
MH have a read through this, it might solve your high rev issue

[mullet_hunter]

Cheers theeedogs... That was a long but good read...

[threedogs]

I havent fitted my 76mm intake yet, Mark has nearly done his.
Im waiting now on a 60 degree bend as I dont think a 45 will work.
I'll also be taking your Maf to a mate on Tues, to see if he can skim a mil or so off it.
Catch can hoses look a trear AN10 braided with black hose clamp ends.
found the high idle problem yet?

With the FBW throttle some here have removed it drilled [very carefully] a small hole in it
and given it a squirt with CRC or similar, with good results.
cant drive a bit harder to iron out that spot where it high idles
if you get what I mean

[mullet_hunter]

I've come to believe it might have something to do with the flyby wire... Or tbs..
Good work with your maf/intake setup... I have no doubts it will come out a treat...
Was on the gu face book page and was dumbfounded at the amount of no it alls and misinformed knowledge of patrol/zd30 owners...
One bloke trying to say mpd maf housing gives u less power than standard...
Another saying it will make ur motor and turbo blow up cause of incorrect air fuel ratios...
Upgrading Intercooler pipes are more important than upgrading standard intercooler
Catch cans are just a waste of money
The rear hoop at the back is a recovery point
If you don't have a Dawes and needle valve fitted your car will blow up
Anything over 22 psi your turbo will blow up
500-600 on the pyro is perfectly normal...

Most of us know this is far from the truth...
I've tried to help out fellow patrol owners with answers speaking from experience..
One bloke had constant issues with limp mode and asked how can he fix it.. I told him my experience with my hpd maf sensor housing.. Saying I was running up to 27 psi with no limp mode issues.. And was called a liar.. Lol..
Advised that rear hoop on the rear of the car is a tie down point and should be used as such rather than a recovery point...replied with I've always used it as a recovery point what would I knw.. Haha
Informed the hole in the blanking plate for the egr is for the crds not Di... Again your wrong etc..
Dawes and needle valve allow you to manually set boost pressure and spool up rate.. While this is my understanding.. There were people saying.. There simply used to give u more power... U must fit them cause if u don't your 3l will blow up...if u have Dawes valve u don't need a catchcan... Hmmm?
Advised of how the factory intercooler are prone to leaking.. Then was told there more than efficient and that money is better off upgrading intercooler pipes..hmm lol
The higher boost you run the less efficacy... Not in my exp.. The higher boost/more dense the intake charge the lower your egts...
Your running more than 22psi your turbo is about to explode... While I think high excessive boost can potential put more strain on the turbo... It is not constantly spooling at the higher 27psi rate.. This would be max boost... At 100k it is anywhere between 5-10 psi... The time difrence between 15psi up to 27psi would only be a matter of seconds between gear changes in the higher end of the rev range... I like to think it as this way.. When your constantly red lining a car this puts a lot more strain on the motor.. Now if you drive the car.. Say it revs to 7k.. Redline starts at 5k.. Revving it to the red line range then change gear.. Does that mean your motor is ready to blow up? And would you say it gave you less power in doing so? I don't believe in none of this I'm right your wrong nonsense... Or any of the other wank factors... I got the most flex.. You need to run 35s minimum...Yours ain't a 4x4 if it ain't locked and lifted... Should had bought a 4.2...etc... Lol
I understand how much pride people take in there vehicles but to me it's about getn out on the tracks with family and friends and enjoying some quality down time... If your happy how your rig goes then happy days...

[threedogs]

I wouldnt suggest using the rear loop to recover it will fail same as the hook on the front.
I was talking to my Mechanic 335 RwKW Patrol about upgrading my turbo pipes to 60mm.
I think they are 50mm with step ups on both ends to 60mm, He said not to ATS.
After reading abit about the DP chip not handling these HPD and bigger intake pipes Im
a bit reluctant to fit mine.
MH read #208

[mullet_hunter]

What I don't get is people read or hear something and take it as gospel...
My understanding as to why these engines calls quits is a combination of things but a main theory being because of the egr and oil blow by mixing together to form a oily mist/sludge which can not only completely cake and block the whole intake but also coat the maf sensor causing it to read incorrectly... Sometimes resulting in incorrect readings which can cause the Ecu to ritchen up the fuel making holes in pistons... Now correct me if I'm wrong.. But you then attempt to eliminate that possibility by blocking off your egr and fitting an inline catch can... By blocking the egr it's not common to see an increase in boost.. Enough to put the patrol into limp mode.. Hence why people use the likes of a Dawes and needle valve to manually control boost levels and spool up rate of turbo... This is my simplified understanding of nads...
Now I've been told the ecu makes them blow up because they can't read boost and that the power delivery is to irattic hence why the use of Dawes and needle valve...
Then why are there so much patrols out there with no nads with high k's and not a trouble in the world... When doing my injector pump and removing and seeing the state of the intake... It gave me a better understanding of what effect a blocked up intake would have on the engine... Now this is due to a few factors but mainly being because of the engineering involved to meet the strict emission laws... I simply don't believe it's a luck of the draw with the ecu being incompetent in the reading of boost and calculating of fuel delivery why they blow up... And hence why a Dawes and needle valve are used... Instead of the factory ecu.. I've done all supporting mods to my understanding.. And yet I've been told I can't run over 22psi that my turbo will blow up.. That my motor is just about to blow up because I'm not using Dawes n needle valves.. It's going to blow up because I've got a different maf housing which is causing it to drop 2v and lean out the fuel which is going to make it blow up... I'm getn excessive heat soak and causing to much back pressure.. Ive basically got half the power compared to standard form because of aftermarket intercooler and higher boost...I've herd it all... In my opinion that's how things are learnt.. Through exp not from a mates mate who said that his mate said this... It's simple realy.. If it works it works.. If it ain't broke why fix it...

[threedogs]

And all this from a guy who thought he brought a Lemon lol
The Mulletmobile is alive and well

[mullet_hunter]

Well said 3dogs... And might be in the market for some new front recovery points soon.. Not that I need them but there been on the to do list... Also got to go pick up my new 4 inch snorkel from powdercoaters... So another thing on the to do list when I can be bothered... Lol.. Also going to wire up the rear of my bus so it's 12v Central.. And making a rear slide/bracket to house my solar panels under my roof rack... All on the to do list.. Lol

[threedogs]

Colour coded snorkle ??
Always here for you, lol

[mullet_hunter]

Nah just plain black.. Stainless abit too out there... Also need to order some more 40nb steel to finish my sliders...

[mullet_hunter]

Finally pulled my finger out and smashd yet another job off my to do list...

[gubigfish]

looking good there champ.

How recessed is it? I'm looking at a 4" for my GU Ute. If you had your time again would you still go for this one?

[mullet_hunter]

Cheers champ... in the pic its half recessed.. and the front of the snorkle bends inwards behind the guard... so 4 inch all the way to the airbox... i have no doubt how much better airflow would be compared to befor and after... standard they have like a black sponge like a pre filter.. it was filld with dust and sand... a went for the black powdercoating cause i think polished stainless is a bit too out there...

[threedogs]

Brushed stainless is not so "out there",
but it looks good with the powder coating.
Did you get it clear coated as well looks better lasts longer?

[mullet_hunter]

Nah i didnt bother clear coating.. but i do liked the brushed lookd with the clear coat... might do that when i finsh knockn up my sliders tho...

[mullet_hunter]

Latest mod to compliment my new snorkle...

[threedogs]

Yo MH light bars look good up top. great side wide beam eh

[mullet_hunter]

Nah ye they work good.. nice bright spread and got hid spotties up frnt to help with distance but i wna upgrade to led spotties pending on how healthy the tax return looks.. lol

[mullet_hunter]

Finally sorted out my high idle issue and loss of power issue... sooo stoked.. back to boostn 20 plus psi... lovn it.. also going to be doing rear door table mod.. wiring up switches and a few other bits and pieces to the bus.. will post progress pics when i get into it....

Sent from my SM-N915G using Tapatalk

[mudski]

Finally sorted out my high idle issue and loss of power issue... sooo stoked.. back to boostn 20 plus psi... lovn it.. also going to be doing rear door table mod.. wiring up switches and a few other bits and pieces to the bus.. will post progress pics when i get into it....

Sent from my SM-N915G using Tapatalk
Well!? What was it?!

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

[mullet_hunter]

High idle was tps.. and lack of power was maf...

Sent from my SM-N915G using Tapatalk

[threedogs]

Good stuff, I spoke to a manager of a 4x4 shop about LED driving lights.
He also does outback guided tours, IHO they are not up there with HID yet'
your light bar should throw the same amount of light. For night 4x4ing LED are the bee's
knee's and hard to beat. Good to hear you got it sorted

[mullet_hunter]

Did a little bit todayy...

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/07/149.jpg

Also started on rear door table....
and started on building my frame to house my solar panels underneath my roof rack with 1200mm sliders...and also ordered me a water tank and pump that will fit nice and snug between back of rear seats and frnt of rear drawers...[emoji108]

Sent from my SM-N915G using Tapatalk

[mullet_hunter]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/07/154.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/07/155.jpg



Sent from my SM-N915G using Tapatalk

[mullet_hunter]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/07/156.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/07/157.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/07/158.jpg

Sent from my SM-N915G using Tapatalk

[mullet_hunter]

already over the loud turbo whistle coming from the turbo... not to bad with the windows up.. windows down is another story.. haha..

[threedogs]

let me get this right you're complaining about the forced induction spool up noise? lol
Do the small door mod with a strut works a treat

[mullet_hunter]

haha ye its just so noisy.. started on my modding my stereo facia to acept my new rocker switches and digital volts display... since there flat and the facia panel is curved.. and since I'm bit of a fussy falla I'm going to add some filler.. sand it down till everything sits nice and snug.. no gaps and then prime and repaint it.. ye i know bit of an effort but i like things to be tidy/fuctional... also my led strips showed up so will be wiring them up in the rear and under bonnet when i do switches tomorrow...and hopefully finish mounting my solar panels under my roof rack and add a usb and cig socket upfront under my leds to power/charge my go pro and to plug in my 12v led strip/worklight. for the awning if needs be... will throw up some pics tomorrow...

[threedogs]

Sounds good I have a heap of 12v work to do. My eldest is an auto elec which is a bonus.
Do those Carling style rocker switches fit in the three knock outs by the hand brake or do
they need filing. My awning light will be remote with a dimmer, its more a work light in brightness.
It will screw onto that yellow bar and with a few grommets and a merit socket hard wire it some how.
Have a look at the "COB" lights they are small and super bright, also check those bulls eye jobs,
I'm going to do my DRLs with the bulls eye like Clubby8 did a while ago.
Also thinking about mounting a small solar panel and a small battery behind the front of the roof rack
so the awning light is self sufficient, if you know what I mean.
solar storage under your roof rack sound good , i would probably have it on top so its working whilst in transit

.http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/252007678909?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10X-9W-Red-LED-Eagle-Eye-Daytime-Running-DRL-tail-lights-reversing-lights-/400962639933?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item5d5b3c583d

[mullet_hunter]

Finally finish frame wiv 900 sliders to house solar panels under roof rack...

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/07/228.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/07/229.jpg


Sent from my SM-N915G using Tapatalk

[mullet_hunter]

Will get some more pics of it mounted under rack tomorw... hay 3dogs it will still charge even under the mesh of roof rack... and should slide out 900mm frm back of patrol as a bit of extra shade when cookn snags on the rear fold dwn table...

Sent from my SM-N915G using Tapatalk

[mullet_hunter]

So bloody time consuming shaping this facia aw well..

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/07/230.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/07/231.jpg

Sent from my SM-N915G using Tapatalk

[mullet_hunter]

Painted and all wired upp back in car...

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/07/237.jpg

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[mullet_hunter]

Sounds good I have a heap of 12v work to do. My eldest is an auto elec which is a bonus.
Do those Carling style rocker switches fit in the three knock outs by the hand brake or do
they need filing. My awning light will be remote with a dimmer, its more a work light in brightness.
It will screw onto that yellow bar and with a few grommets and a merit socket hard wire it some how.
Have a look at the "COB" lights they are small and super bright, also check those bulls eye jobs,
I'm going to do my DRLs with the bulls eye like Clubby8 did a while ago.
Also thinking about mounting a small solar panel and a small battery behind the front of the roof rack
so the awning light is self sufficient, if you know what I mean.
solar storage under your roof rack sound good , i would probably have it on top so its working whilst in transit

.http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/252007678909?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10X-9W-Red-LED-Eagle-Eye-Daytime-Running-DRL-tail-lights-reversing-lights-/400962639933?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item5d5b3c583d
The switches are to big for the 3 plugs by the hand brake.. but you could make them fit there with a bit of cutting..

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[threedogs]

I think Mudski has 3 switches in the hand brake area.
I have that clock in mycamper, the OE is impssible to read IMO.
I have a triple pod ontop of the dash but changinging that,
I have a 52mm 12v clock, yet to be mounted

As for the solar working maybe only 70% if that.
I would of mounted it on top, it can handle a swag strapped to it if travelling
I mounted my Ecu-Talk infront of the instruments does not block any gauges or warnings.
but I have double din head unit
Your USB one I fit in the lower console area ,mine is a double Baintech job
On my centre facia I have 2 Baintech battery led monitors, and my light bar switch.
I may put the 52mm clock there also not sure yet

[mullet_hunter]

Oil catch workn a treat...

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/07/238.jpg

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[Sir Roofy]

And the oil level is the same

[threedogs]

Can you put a pic of your ECU-talk after its warm and idling please

[mullet_hunter]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/07/239.jpg

Sent from my SM-N915G using Tapatalk

[threedogs]

Thanks , keep an eye on the rear IC hose they have a habit of blowing off.

[mullet_hunter]

Ye 26psi will make it do that... been meaning to upgrade hoses and clamps fora while nw just cnt be bothered...[emoji12]

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[Softy]

How many km's have you done with the catch can installed? That is my last thing to do to complete "NADS"

Also what intercooler is that? I need to piss the crap factory one off and get one with welded tanks.

[mullet_hunter]

No too sure on kms.. maybe 1000km...

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[mullet_hunter]

Fitted it pretty much as soon as i got it... while doing ur nad mods.. if not already done.. id be pulling the manifold off and cleaning the blowby sludge inside.. then refit with in line catch can.. dawes n needle valve.. blockd egr and clean maf sensor...

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[Softy]

Cheers.. Yeah i have EGR Block, Dawes/Needle etc.. just need the catch can.. Might pull the manifold off but probably not. My engine doesn't seem to breath to heavy so hoping it isn't to bad.