Help! Urgent!

[dpetersen]

G'day guys! Ok so I started my trip from Melbourne to Kununurra today, I'm heading up there for work. As I said in my intro iv just purchased a patrol, 2003 4 cylinder gu ST.
I took it away camping last weekend to try it out and the engine light came on. Took it to the mechanic during the week and he said it's something to do with the boost, due to towing the turbo is working to hard.
So it happend a few times today again while going up hill, so id pull over and turn the car off and back on and it would be ok. Has anyone else had this issue? Should I be very concerned?
The other thing that happened, as I'm pulling into Adelaide I started to hear a fan belt noise, and yep sure enough it's coming from me. I have no idea why and it's only an occasional noise while I idoling.
In sposed to be heading to the Oodnatta track tomorrow but now I am not so sure.
Any ideas on what to do!?

[the evil twin]

Without knowing the fault codes it is hard to make a call on the engine faults.
If they light is resetting when you switch off then it is a "non-latching" fault which is usually minor.
You still need to try and suss it out tho.

The fan belt noise could be the belt, the belt tensioner, the A/C compressor clutch or the Alternator clutch.

Personally I would be a bit cautious about doing the Oodnadatta track in summer in a car I had only just bought and with issues.
Mainly because if you need help or parts they will be expensive and difficult to get.

[threedogs]

when was the fuel filter last changed, the noise at idle could be a number of things
I had a small noise at idle which went away when you tapped the throttle, I did not think it was major
wrong, the clutch pulley on the alternater screwed off at 110kph, see pic
Put a screwdriver to your ear and try and pinpoint the noise.
Check the belt tensioner pulley as well

[Cuppa]

Personally I would be a bit cautious about doing the Oodnadatta track in summer in a car I had only just bought and with issues.
Mainly because if you need help or parts they will be expensive and difficult to get.

I’ll reinforce that. In particular the summer bit. The potential for high temperatures is underestimated by some. They can place ‘pressures’ on vehicles way above & beyond the norm. Add in that you are towing, know that something is not quite right & the car is new to you I would advise that you take the much less palatable option of finding somewhere to get you sorted before you leave Adelaide. The alternative is an unpleasant trip filled with anxiety (even if you stick to just the Sturt Highway). Believe me I know that feeling. The distances between places gets far longer when you’re wondering if the vehicle will make it. And once you leave Adelaide your options for repairs reduce dramatically & when you can find somewhere the cost is at least double.
Sorry to be telling you this, just trying to help prevent things falling in a heap.

I spent a week waiting for a water pump in Coober Pedy, & had to pay $700 (plus fitting) for an item normally available for $200. In Katherine we spent two months whilst a new motor was sourced & fitted. (RACV paid for accommodation & car hire). Cost of labour was $140 per hour (& that was in 2009!), added to that were of course the cost of parts, freight etc. Overall with the fitting of what was a secondhand $3500 motor & what the RACV paid (2 separate ‘incidents’ - gearbox had to come out twice) we left between $12,000 & $15,000 in Katherine! If we had been in the position to have had the work done in Adelaide our costs would have been well under half of that.

[dpetersen]

I was the Maintenance supervisor at Kings canyon for two years so I know how expensive it can be out that way (I did all the ordering and work quotes). Have taken it to a dealer in Adelaide to get checked out.
After having a second look it sounds more like a bearing but I spose il find out soon.
It's just frustrating as I only bought it 3 weeks ago and had it serviced last week and everything seemed to be in really good nick! I changed the fuel filter last week threedogs.
I guess we shall see what happens! Fingers crossed it's nothing major! Will keep you all posted.

[threedogs]

Still could be the alternator, thats what my moneys on
but hope its not too $$$ I take it you brought it privately ?
If you replace the tensioner put this bearing in it NTN-WC 87503
Seems you are up to speed regarding outback travel too

[ova50]

When the engine light comes on, does it lose power?
I had a similar problem about 6 to 8 months back after I had a Dawes valve fitted.
The vehicle would go into limp mode. I would have to stop, turn the vehicle off and would ok when I started it again.
It would happen at between 40 to 65 kph and always on steady throttle and up hills.
I adjusted the Dawes valve to back off the boost and have not had the problem since.
:cheers:

[threedogs]

@ OVA I dont think he has NADS fitted cause he only just purchased the Patrol

Is your intercooler oily???

[ova50]

@ OVA I dont think he has NADS fitted cause he only just purchased the Patrol

Is your intercooler oily???


Wasn't sure if the Nads has been fitted prior to his purchase.
About the intercooler, are you referring to mine or "dpetersen"?
I have cleaned mine twice in the last 2 years. Has some oil residue but have been told its normal.
:cheers:

[dpetersen]

Just a quick chat to the mechanic. Looks like its the alternator, belt tensioner and belt so will get them all replaced today.
As for the engine light it's due to being under high load when going up hills with trailer. Apparently there's a valve or something that can be installed on the intercooler to stop the problem but they don't do it here. Does anyone know what valve they're talking about?
Also just found out that there was a re call on these models a few months ago due to an air bag fault or something like that. Will find out what it is and let you all know!

[dpetersen]

And no I don't have NADS, not really too sure what it is?

[ova50]

The valve you mention is most likely the Dawes & needle valve. (Nads, Nissan Anti Detonation System)
"mudski" on this site is the man to talk to.
:cheers:

[the evil twin]

The mechanic has told you a lot of bollocks...

The engine light doesn't come on because you tow heavy loads up hill.
There are thousands and I do mean thousands of Patrols pulling big loads every day in Oz with no issues.
You need to get the fault codes to know the problem

The squeal is either the Alternator, Tensioner or Belt not all three (it could be other things as well).
Mechanics who can't be rrsed fixing something correctly and will happily change everything then give you a huge bill give me the shits

[4bye4]

when was the fuel filter last changed, the noise at idle could be a number of things
I had a small noise at idle which went away when you tapped the throttle, I did not think it was major
wrong, the clutch pulley on the alternater screwed off at 110kph, see pic
Put a screwdriver to your ear and try and pinpoint the noise.
Check the belt tensioner pulley as well
This conjures up so many pictures.

[dpetersen]

Ok got the car back from Nissan. The changed the tensioner, belt and alternator. Your probably right evil twin in saying that, I thought the alternator was ok but I took there advise and changed it anyway. I have to be in Alice Springs in two days to see my misses then heading back to Kings Canyon for a few nights I'm not really in a possition to take the chance. Iv had to post phone my trip on the Oodnatta track as I am a day behind now.
The engine code from memory was 555 or 550 or something like that. All up its cost me $1250 so pretty expensive so far.
Before the patrol I owned three Ford utes, an AU, BA XR6 then a BF XR8. I towed caravans, boats and trailers with them and never had an issue. So I am getting a bit frustrated with the patrol. Apart from the issues it's had so far it's also painfully slow and gutless with the trailer on, and the trailer probably weighs about 600kg. I understand it's only a 4cl diesel but I'm really really hoping I havnt bought a lemon. I'm still hoping to do the Tanami but I'm hesitant now. Il see how it goes the way to Alice.

[4bye4]

Would it be worthe while loading up the alternator, put on all the lights and maybe the aircon as well and checking the charge voltage. Also listen if the noise increases/decreases or no difference. Not sure what turns the engine light on. maybe if alternator fault the voltage goes so low that the engine light comes on??

[outback]

If you are still in Adelaide forget the Nissan bunch, take it to some people like Alltrac4x4. They only do 4x4s. When I am town that is where I get my vehicle serviced.
Also while there get the NADS done, possibly a new bigger intercooler as well with its own fan.

I have found these guys cheaper, more friendly and do a better job than Nissan for work as well.


No I don't have any connection with then other than they service my vehicle.

[outback]

I understand it's only a 4cl diesel but I'm really really hoping I havnt bought a lemon. I'm still hoping to do the Tanami but I'm hesitant now. Il see how it goes the way to Alice.

You are possibly trying to drive it like a Ford. Wont work. My GUIV pulls more and its not gutless.

[the evil twin]

Your ZD30 won't pull anything like an XR6 or XR8 unfortunately.
But it sure will go places they wouldn't.

You can still do the Tanami if you want and are confident the vehicle is running OK, it's a tad chopped up here and there from the rain so check road conditions at Alice before you hit it.
I'd be tempted to take the bitumen if in any doubt

[dpetersen]

Il see how the car goes getting to Alice and decide from there

[happygu]

It will seem a little underpowered compared to a passenger vehicle, and also the diesel puts down its power differently ..... you probably need to adjust your driving style a little for the diesel, and then you will love it

[outback]

Il see how the car goes getting to Alice and decide from there
You are on a new leaning curve.


It will seem a little underpowered compared to a passenger vehicle, and also the diesel puts down its power differently ..... you probably need to adjust your driving style a little for the diesel, and then you will love it

Best torque about 2500 rpm . You need to do the work in the range 2400 - 2700 rpm. Max torque.

You are not driving a passenger car so it will take a bit to learn the new system and driving style.

[threedogs]

Yeah mate shoot Mudski a PM he sells all you need, which is basically a NADS kit,
You will require a Boost and an EGT gauge in a pillar pod or similar.
then you'll need an EGR blocking plate, a manual boost control vavle oand a needle valve.
All this plus a Provent 200 catch can,
What condition is your IC is it oily ? jf it is chances are its leeking therefore unable to hold boost.
thus the problems begin, but easily sorted

Did you get to keep your old alternator and pulley assbly ?

[BigRAWesty]

Ok quick did on google didn't find those codes but the closest one is of no help any way

0103 Coolant temp sender 0104 Vehicle speed sensor[/FONT] 0203 Throttle pedal switch 0208 Overheating Fault (Cooling Fan control) 0234 Turbo Over boost 0301 Engine ECU 0402 Fuel temperature sensor 0403 Throttle pedal position sensor 0406* Intake air volume VNC system 0407 Crankshaft position sensor 0502* Battery voltage 0504 Auto Trans communication line 0505 No faults detected 0660 Intake Manifold Tuning Valve Control Circuit (Bank 1) 0701 Injection Pump - cam ring position sensor 0702 Injection Pump - TDC pulse sensor 0703 Injection Pumpcommunication line 0704 Injection Pump - spill valve 0705 Injection Pump - Circuit malfunction, poor fuel quality, Pump Control Unit Failure 0706 Injection Pump -spill valve 0707 Injection Pump injection timing control 0802 Engine ECU (Barometric Pressure Sensor) 0804* Engine ECU 0807 Stop lamp switch/circuit 0901 Engine ECU (calculation malfunction) 0902 Engine ECU relay (incorrect voltage from relay to ECU 0903* Engine ECU (internal signal processing malfunction) 0905 Turbo Pressure (Intake air pressure sensor) 1003 EGR volume control valve 1004 Injection Pump - fuel cut out system 1401 NATS locked 1402 NATS locked 1403 NATS locked 1404 NATS locked 1405 NATS locked 1406 NATS locked 1407 NATS locked 1408 NATS locked * These codes do not illuminate the Check Engine warning lamp.

[BigRAWesty]

So you mentioned under powered?? A few things come to mind especially if you don't have nads. And the main one I can think of is the maf sensor. These get dirty with the egr setup and can be cleaned. Again mudski sells the cleaner as do most good auto shops. How it's done?? No idea but I'm sure someone has done a how to thread.

[dpetersen]

Will look at cleaning the maf soon. It went pretty good today, no issues at all, no engine lights so can't complain.
Everything else you guys listed all sounds great but what is it all worth? Cash is tight at the moment, havnt worked for nearly 10 weeks due to the wet season. The car is 12 years old and has 285000 on it, ideally I'd like to keep it long term and I do mainly highway ks not too a whole lot of really rough 4wding, that's what work cars are for!

[dpetersen]

Oh and a heads up for anyone with the same model; the dealer said there was a recall a few months ago for them only if there is a passenger side airbag fitted. Something to do with them failing.

[BigRAWesty]

Will look at cleaning the maf soon. It went pretty good today, no issues at all, no engine lights so can't complain. Everything else you guys listed all sounds great but what is it all worth? Cash is tight at the moment, havnt worked for nearly 10 weeks due to the wet season. The car is 12 years old and has 285000 on it, ideally I'd like to keep it long term and I do mainly highway ks not too a whole lot of really rough 4wding, that's what work cars are for!

A maf clean is the cost of the cleaner.
I'm pretty sure mudski mentioned around $400 for the nads setup and then gauges is up to you. They range from $50 to 200+

[Rock Trol]

You also need the security key (Allen key style with hole in center) to take the MAF sensor out (on CRD's anyways). I bought a kit from REPCO for $20 and it has all sorts of shapes and sizes. Works well with Rhino gear as I can put the end in a drill or screw driver handle. That and a can of MAF cleaner should be around $40 bucks all up.

To take the plug off once the screws are out you need to gently push the plastic tab on the underneath of the plug downwards (CRD) and it comes straight out. It's a little hard to see as there is not a lot of room so if you just try and pull on the plug to get it out it wont move far. Once you have done it once its very simple.
That reminds me, I have another job to do on the weekend.

[dpetersen]

Got to alice today and went all good! No engine lights. Is it possible that my mechanic and the Nissan deal got the code wrong and the engine light was due to low battery voltage from the alternator rather then the over boost on the turbo?

[4bye4]

Yep see my earlier post. But keep watchin anyway in case it isn't that.

[happygu]

Got to alice today and went all good! No engine lights. Is it possible that my mechanic and the Nissan deal got the code wrong and the engine light was due to low battery voltage from the alternator rather then the over boost on the turbo?

The short answer is no .... there are specific codes that are collected in the ECU for the different faults, and with the right tools, it is even spit out in plain English.....

Mic

[4bye4]

The short answer is no .... there are specific codes that are collected in the ECU for the different faults, and with the right tools, it is even spit out in plain English.....

Mic

Oops! Sorry Happygu you are correct, I misread the question, thinking the engine light may have been caused by low volts. I didn't think about the codes. Sorry didn't mean to miss lead anyone.:oops: