View Full Version : both washers not working on 2000 gu
how1e
17th January 2015, 12:45 PM
both windscreen wipers work.(so it's not a fuse?)
neither washers will squirt.
i am assuming they have separate washer motors as there are 2 connections under the bottle. (is that correct?)
both washer motors have 12v on both wires (i have read that this is the norm).
assuming that there are 2 motors, the likelihood of both breaking together is unlikely, although the rear washer is hardly ever used. (ie so i'm not dismissing this theory yet)
i am suspecting the wiper relay or a (new to me) wiper 'amplifier' (whatever that does).
i am guessing that the relay switches one of the 12v live wires to earth when you operate the stick/switch on the stalk?
1) are both motors controlled by the same relay?
2) to test the washer motor, could i cut one of the 2 live wires and apply an earth to crank up the motor?
3) where are the relays, can only find a GQ EL electrical diagram and i've lost my GU diagram.
i have googled and searched to get this far but cannot find my GU EL diagram ggrrr
thanks in advance
threedogs
17th January 2015, 12:54 PM
ET is your go to man I would only suggest putting a needle in the tomcats
[squirters] on the bonnet to make sure they are not blocked, can you hear motor???
the evil twin
17th January 2015, 01:09 PM
The front washer motor is powered from the same fuse as the front wipers (Fuse 3) and the rear is the similar but from Fuse 18.
So, if the wipers work then the fuses etc are OK.
Give the jets a clean before you dick around with wiring.
The motors run on a switched earth
If you want to check power to the washer motors, pull the plug and Pin 2 will always have 12 volts if the Ign is in ACC or ON.
Pin 1 will have no continuity to earth unless the wiper stalk is pulled back (front) or the wiper control is in "wash" (back) then you should have earth on Pin 1.
If you want to check the motors 12 volts on Pin 2 and earth on pin 1 and they should fire up.
I forget which pump is which but the plumbing is a dead give away.
There is a non return valve in the rear plumbing near the back wheel well usually altho soem have found it under the scuff panel.
New motors are reasonably cheap on Ebay/Nizzbits/etc just choose who you wish to patronise.
Sometimes it is easier to get a whole bottle assy
how1e
17th January 2015, 01:32 PM
pins 1 & 2 both have 12v when the ignition is on.
i suppose the pump is DC motor, would it matter if connected the +/- the wrong way round to test it?
one pump has a pink wire, the other green.
looking at a GQ EL59, the pink wire looks as though it goes to the relay, so this one should be earthed?
how1e
17th January 2015, 01:41 PM
no noise from pumps
happygu
17th January 2015, 01:45 PM
Are both the front and back sqirters not working, or is it just both the fronts?
the evil twin
17th January 2015, 02:50 PM
pins 1 & 2 both have 12v when the ignition is on.
i suppose the pump is DC motor, would it matter if connected the +/- the wrong way round to test it?
one pump has a pink wire, the other green.
looking at a GQ EL59, the pink wire looks as though it goes to the relay, so this one should be earthed?
Yes they will both have 12 volts when Ign on... as posted prev, the earth is switched and won't appear unless the wiper stalk is held in the wash position.
If you want to test the pumps you are correct, Pin1, Pink, is earth and Pin 2, Light Green, is 12 Volts.
how1e
17th January 2015, 04:18 PM
both front and rear pumps are not working.
i noticed the front ones not working recently, i very rarely use the rear washers, so they could have been gone yonks ago.
or, they could have gone together, if they are controlled by the same relay.
the evil twin
17th January 2015, 04:36 PM
both front and rear pumps are not working.
i noticed the front ones not working recently, i very rarely use the rear washers, so they could have been gone yonks ago.
or, they could have gone together, if they are controlled by the same relay.
Nah, different 'relays'.
The only thing common between front and rear is the Washer bottle.
Most common faults with the pumps are grot in the pump vanes jamming them or corrosion in the motor so it seizes.
If they won't run just get new ones
how1e
17th January 2015, 05:09 PM
i think you're correct.
on the clues offered today, i went and cut the pink wire and earthed it, no response from the pump.
went on the live side of the pink and it changes from 12v to earth when i pull the 'wash' stick.
i will try and get new pumps (after i find out how to remove them)
i thought i read somewhere today that you don't need to remove the bottle to change the pumps?
must be a double whammy, the rear pump must have been goosed a while before.
FOR THE RECORD
i worked on the pink/green wires, this pump is for the rear washer on my gu.
the blue/yellow wired pump must be for the front washer.
how1e
14th February 2015, 01:48 AM
also for the record - it seems after 217,000Km's and 14yrs both washer pumps decided to die within a couple of weeks of each other.
ordered off Ebay, got both front and rear pumps(with rubber gaskets) for $42 total.
there is a slight difference in the pumps, just the electrical plugs have different notches, but these can be easily corrected with a stanley knife if required.
case closed, thankyou all.
Bigcol
14th February 2015, 03:12 PM
as ET said before, easier to replace the whole bottle (with new motors attached)
plug and pray................
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