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View Full Version : Got this reply from a tuner about egts from tuning. Opinions needed.



Remdogg
13th January 2015, 04:48 PM
Asked about getting my ecu flash tuned. Says the they do it on the dyno real time. I ask about egt increase and this was his reply.


Thanks for your enquiry.

We have done testing with a Y61 patrol with an EGT gauge fitted, generally
the temp increase by around 80-100 degrees over standard, i.e. it was
around 600 degrees C which is still very safe.

We obviously add fuel when tuning but by adding around 3-4 psi of boost the
AFRs are not that much richer than standard which keeps the engine safe and
reliable.

By making more power the egts will always increase, by how much is the
concern and from our testing its still very safe.


I was thinking 600 was to hot. Anyone with chip have any comparisons

rusty_nail
13th January 2015, 04:53 PM
which motor mate?

Hodge
13th January 2015, 04:59 PM
600 is getting up there, but still safe. Chuck an EGT gauge on a stock common rail and push it a bit and see what happens. Very normal.

Remdogg
13th January 2015, 04:59 PM
Oh yeh CRD

Remdogg
13th January 2015, 05:01 PM
So what is the highest I should go I thought 550 was the limit. I know mine gets up there if I give it a good kick.

Hodge
13th January 2015, 06:11 PM
So what is the highest I should go I thought 550 was the limit. I know mine gets up there if I give it a good kick.

I think it's one of those "How longs a piece of rope" questions mate. Obviously the lower the better.
Mine dropped heaps with blocked EGR, and then even more with a better intercooler. I'm yet to see mine go past 500C nowdays, now matter how much I push it.

Rock Trol
13th January 2015, 11:13 PM
I think it's one of those "How longs a piece of rope" questions mate. Obviously the lower the better.
Mine dropped heaps with blocked EGR, and then even more with a better intercooler. I'm yet to see mine go past 500C nowdays, now matter how much I push it.

That's good to hear Hodge. I don't have an egt gauge yet but have a bigger intercooler/3 inch exhaust/egr block so all should be OK.
Once EGT gauge is on I'll be able to see exactly what the car is doing.

Remdogg, what you where told sounds correct. I had my ecu retuned last year and if I push it up hill the scangauge shows that the water temp rises higher than it used to when stock. This isn't as instant as an egt gauge but certainly shows that more fuel is added to get the power and this means more heat.

MEGOMONSTER
13th January 2015, 11:46 PM
I see mine at 500-550 up most hills, freeway driving. No real difference when towing. Maybe just a little higher.
600 when really pushing it but don't like it that high.
Being a CRD is very common.
So the way I see it, should be ok.

Dazzalco
14th January 2015, 12:15 AM
My stock crd no mods at all could easily get to 600 plus giving it a bit also normal hwy driving into head wind could see 500-600

Stropp
14th January 2015, 12:29 AM
If you put a bit more boost into it the egt's will drop, personally I would not use a tuner that says 600 is ok but that's me.

MEGOMONSTER
14th January 2015, 12:46 AM
If you put a bit more boost into it the egt's will drop

But don't the ZD30's not like extra boost.
Boom. For instance.

Hodge
14th January 2015, 06:47 AM
But don't the ZD30's not like extra boost.
Boom. For instance.

Boost alone won't hurt the engine that easily.

Sent from my S4 using Forum Runner

Sir Roofy
14th January 2015, 06:58 AM
i see mine at 500-550 up most hills, freeway driving. No real difference when towing. Maybe just a little higher.
600 when really pushing it but don't like it that high.
Being a crd is very common.
So the way i see it, should be ok.

even with that bird catcher i would have thought egt,s would be much lower

threedogs
14th January 2015, 08:10 AM
Towing my EGTs are 450c but sitting solo at 110kph = 350 if that.
Might need a Dyno Mego
My max boost is 20psi

Sir Roofy
14th January 2015, 08:15 AM
towing my egts are 450c but sitting solo at 110kph = 350 if that.
Might need a dyno mego

i dont know why your so high when towing i get between 250 on the flat and 350 up hill or a tad higher in a head wind id take that grill out of the scoop and see if that makes a difference it must be restricting some air flow

Maxhead
14th January 2015, 08:25 AM
On my crd i see 600+ towing easily, quickly jump on boost and it drops.
Normal driving i get 450-500

.....on the move

rusty_nail
14th January 2015, 08:37 AM
Towing my EGTs are 450c but sitting solo at 110kph = 350 if that.
Might need a Dyno Mego
My max boost is 20psi

do you use your conversion chart to work that out? =P

Winnie
14th January 2015, 09:02 AM
i dont know why your so high when towing i get between 250 on the flat and 350 up hill or a tad higher in a head wind id take that grill out of the scoop and see if that makes a difference it must be restricting some air flow

That's the difference between the CRD and Di, Roofy.

Sir Roofy
14th January 2015, 09:27 AM
that's the difference between the crd and di, roofy.

i didnt think 3ds was a crd i know that the crd always run hotter krisso did a write up on it on his big trip

threedogs
14th January 2015, 09:35 AM
@ Roofy mine is a Di I run 10-11psi at 100-110 kph when going up the Murray.
I remember you saying you stopped and adjusted your boost last time with Jane.
What was that for? Grill has been out for a while now

Edit sitting on 110 solo about 300c and towing 370ish c

threedogs
14th January 2015, 09:38 AM
do you use your conversion chart to work that out? =P

Yeah I have to,,, dumb me brought an EGT gauge in "F" DOH

MEGOMONSTER
14th January 2015, 09:43 AM
Nobody ever talks about the other variances.
Different gauges, different temp sensors, different sensor locations, different exhausts, different intercoolers.

Just like fuel consumption, one car gets 10's while other get 16-18's doing the same driving.
Are higher readings more or less accurate than the lower readings. We actually don't know, we all assume what were seeing is correct.

When on the dyno, do they get/see EGT's to confirm what our gauges are actually showing us.

threedogs
14th January 2015, 09:53 AM
you can only tune your motor to what you have fitted, and how that all interacts with each other.
As ET said on another thread these gauges we use are say +- 5 or 10 degrees which is fine
its not a space shuttle. That why I cant see the point of pricey gauges.

Once you have your 4x4 set to 10 psi at 100 Ks what you see is what you get I suppose
each motor is different
The bottom line is to get what you have working as efficient as possible

Winnie
14th January 2015, 09:54 AM
i didnt think 3ds was a crd i know that the crd always run hotter krisso did a write up on it on his big trip

Sorry mate I thought you replied to Mick.
Maybe 3dogs drives a bit harder than you? I know you don't like to rush so you can take in all that's around you.
Maybe yours has a better tune, maybe his is making more power... still both well within acceptable ranges.

threedogs
14th January 2015, 09:59 AM
Thats cruising with the cruise control on, might have posted my temps as a bit high
Last trip solo hottest would of been 450c but other than that 320 c.
Maybe I'll get Mark to have a look when he gets back, but it flies IMO

Hodge
14th January 2015, 10:11 AM
Mego is spot on. Different factors will contribute to different readings. When my car got chipped and Dynoed, the bloke told me what was already mentioned here. CRD's run hotted than Di's in stock form. He did mentioned why, something with higher fuel pressure... Can't remember exactly, he gave me a technical answer.
When I got my EGT gauge fitted, I sort of panicked when I seen the EGT's. Assuming my EGT gauge was out of whack, I plugged in my mates guage, including his bung all the way to exhaust and difference was 10-20C. I like to think mine is pretty accurate. Unless his and mine are stuffed. Which I highly doubt.

Hodge
14th January 2015, 10:14 AM
When on the dyno, do they get/see EGT's to confirm what our gauges are actually showing us.

Yes, most workshops have calibrated gauges they can plug in, and see whats happening.

Sir Roofy
14th January 2015, 10:19 AM
@ roofy mine is a di i run 10-11psi at 100-110 kph when going up the murray.
I remember you saying you stopped and adjusted your boost last time with jane.
What was that for? Grill has been out for a while now

edit sitting on 110 solo about 300c and towing 370ish c

that seems a bit better its all up hill from seymour
but that trailer of yours is nothing compared to mine
i stopped on the way up to giveit a bit more boost and droped
the egts down to 350 and being hot weather then that was ok
when we came home it was hot as well but it sat on 350 till we
got over the range then the egts droped again to 250 /300

Sir Roofy
14th January 2015, 10:28 AM
sorry mate i thought you replied to mick.
Maybe 3dogs drives a bit harder than you? I know you don't like to rush so you can take in all that's around you.
Maybe yours has a better tune, maybe his is making more power... Still both well within acceptable ranges.

no worrys winnie it gets confusing sometimes till you know who has what
most are getting crd and then there are us still with di,s
ive adjusted mine again running 20psi and running nearly the same as johns but im still cooler
but as ive said many times not all di,s run the same they vary quite a bit
and he has that bird catcher on yet seems a tad high to me temps that is

Sir Roofy
14th January 2015, 10:34 AM
thats cruising with the cruise control on, might have posted my temps as a bit high
last trip solo hottest would of been 450c but other than that 320 c.
Maybe i'll get mark to have a look when he gets back, but it flies imo


when did you last change your air and fuel filters ,i never use cruise control stupid idea
they tend to use more fuel in my honest opinion

threedogs
14th January 2015, 11:29 AM
Fuel was changed about 2k ago and fresh air cleaner for that trip.
I'll have a fiddle and see what I can acheive

Stropp
14th January 2015, 12:59 PM
But don't the ZD30's not like extra boost.
Boom. For instance.

yeh depends on how much boost is in it now but generally if its low boost and egt's are high if you add a bit more boost or back the fuel off a bit the egt's will drop, from my understanding a good tuner can get the balance just right and if a person is somewhat competent then fiddling with the fuel and boost yourself can be setup well too as you can see by the threads of members who have done it themselves with great results but i for one would not be cranking 20lb of boost into a 3ltr DI.

my experience is only with the 4.2 but plenty here have done the di.

SG1
14th January 2015, 01:09 PM
Interesting differences in EGT's, I can only get max 14 psi atm but have something to try soon so hopefully can get the boost up a bit more, when we went from Yarrawonga to Echuca along the Murray Valley highway recently with outside temps around 32c with a very strong head and side wind with camping gear and a couple swags and chairs on the roof we were sitting around 415c EGT's @ 100k's and nearly touched 500c when overtaking, that road was a EGT killer, normally we can range from 350-360c @100K's and funnily enough when getting to 110K's the EGT's can go down to 325c pending weather temp but normally sit 15-20c lower at 110k than 100.

As soon as it cooled down a bit heading towards Melbourne (same day and about 30c around there instead of 32c) the EGT's dropped back to around 385c and then in the evening was back down to 365c as we headed towards the Valley(home).

Conclusion was ambient temperature can and does affect EGT's(in our vehicle), add other variables like head winds/side winds and affects it even more.

Sir Roofy
14th January 2015, 01:14 PM
interesting differences in egt's, i can only get max 14 psi atm but have something to try soon so hopefully can get the boost up a bit more, when we went from yarrawonga to echuca along the murray valley highway recently with outside temps around 32c with a very strong head and side wind with camping gear and a couple swags and chairs on the roof we were sitting around 415c egt's @ 100k's and nearly touched 500c when overtaking, that road was a egt killer, normally we can range from 350-360c @100k's and funnily enough when getting to 110k's the egt's can go down to 325c pending weather temp but normally sit 15-20c lower at 110k than 100.

As soon as it cooled down a bit heading towards melbourne (same day and about 30c around there instead of 32c) the egt's dropped back to around 385c and then in the evening was back down to 365c as we headed towards the valley(home).

Conclusion was ambient temperature can and does affect egt's(in our vehicle), add other variables like head winds/side winds and affects it even more.

you hit the nail on the head mate

threedogs
17th January 2015, 12:14 PM
One thing that just hit me driving around this morning, If I had a manual on the freeway
sitting on 100kph my revs are about 2500-2600 is that right?, no wonder the manuals get lower EGTs.
My auto sitting on 100kph sits on 2000 rpm if my EGTs go up I hit the dual ratio button to bring
the revs up thus allowing exhaust to escape quicker, therefore my EGTs will go down.
Can't see myself driving at 2500 rpm at 100ks not good on fuel I would think.
I future we need to ask is it a 5 speed manual or and Auto

Hodge
17th January 2015, 12:18 PM
I don't think it's that high TD. I think mine sits about 2200RPM @ 100km/h. But I will confirm on my next drive.

Sir Roofy
17th January 2015, 12:57 PM
one thing that just hit me driving around this morning, if i had a manual on the freeway
sitting on 100kph my revs are about 2500-2600 is that right?, no wonder the manuals get lower egts.
My auto sitting on 100kph sits on 2000 rpm if my egts go up i hit the dual ratio button to bring
the revs up thus allowing exhaust to escape quicker, therefore my egts will go down.
Can't see myself driving at 2500 rpm at 100ks not good on fuel i would think.
I future we need to ask is it a 5 speed manual or and auto

good thinking there 99

paulyg
17th January 2015, 01:25 PM
My DI auto with 285/75/16 tyres sits on 2200 revs at 100kmh, but mine runs hot 400 to 450 at 110kmh with roof top tent.

mudski
17th January 2015, 05:14 PM
But don't the ZD30's not like extra boost.
Boom. For instance.

I can't talk for the crd's Mick but the Di's are fine with extra boost. Mine runs 25psi and has done for well over 12 months. The only issue with running higher boost is premature wear on the turbo. How much and how fast the wear is? Dunno.I have been told of the impellers busting off at over 25psi. I just checked my turbo as a pre trip check and it spins free and there is zero play in the shaft.
The "boom" you talk of I personally believe that's from under boosting. Hence adding the NADs to control this issue. Too low boost pressure and your egts sky rocket...I have now seen two motors that have dropped the pin, both had done the exact same damage. Melted number 3 and 4 pistons, plus other damage to the motor. The cylinder colour, you could tell it got bloody hot. And both were just cruising too with no stress on the motor. That's my personal belief on this theory.

MEGOMONSTER
17th January 2015, 05:24 PM
I can't talk for the crd's Mick but the Di's are fine with extra boost. Mine runs 25psi and has done for well over 12 months. The only issue with running higher boost is premature wear on the turbo. I have been told of the impellers busting off at over 25psi. I just checked my turbo as a pre trip check and it spins free and there is zero play in the shaft. The "boom" you talk of I personally believe that's from under boosting. Too low boost pressure and your egts sky rocket...I have now seen two motors that have dropped the pin, both had done the exact same damage. Melted number 3 and 4 pistons, plus other damage to the motor. The cylinder colour, you could tell it got bloody hot. And both were just cruising too with no stress on the motor. That's my personal belief on this theory.

So GoNADS might be the key to get my temps downs by giving her only a few more pounds of boost.
All this High EGT's alwAys scares me a little knowing my 600 and 650's are really hot.

the evil twin
17th January 2015, 05:38 PM
snip... I can't talk for the crd's Mick but the Di's are fine with extra boost. Mine runs 25psi and has done for well over 12 months.

I can't talk for the Di's but CRD's love boost as well.
I wasn't running mine at 25 but up to 20 was common.

mudski
17th January 2015, 05:54 PM
So GoNADS might be the key to get my temps downs by giving her only a few more pounds of boost.
All this High EGT's alwAys scares me a little knowing my 600 and 650's are really hot.

I dragged my 1.4t camper 8 hours mate and my egt's rarely hit 400c. Most of the time it sat around 320c on the flat 'ish sections. So I'd be wary of egt's seeing 600c.

the evil twin
17th January 2015, 06:02 PM
Yep, a Diesel is a Diesel is a Diesel...
jam as much air in as you can get away with,
compress it as much as you can get away with,
shove as much fuel in as you can get away with,
wait for the bang then get whats left out as quick as you can so you can start all over.

The biggest single thing that makes a Diesel complicated is pollution control

paulyg
17th January 2015, 08:00 PM
Hey mudski how many psi do you have at 100kmh?

Rock Trol
17th January 2015, 08:35 PM
When you guys are talking about running 20-25psi boost, is that just a peak before it drops down or is it steady at that boost?

the evil twin
17th January 2015, 08:39 PM
When you guys are talking about running 20-25psi boost, is that just a peak before it drops down or is it steady at that boost?
I'm talking max continuous boost IE constant 32 PSI on the Scangauge MAP indication.

Not sure about the Mudman but IRCC he has his wound up more and is also talking max continuous but I'm sure he'll post up when he sees the thread.

Rock Trol
18th January 2015, 11:54 AM
OK. I have set the Scangauge to show boost by subtracting 14.7 psi from MAP so that is why I was freaking out at the numbers you are talking about. Maybe I should switch to MAP so I get a more accurate reading. Just need to recalibrate my mind so I understand the figures I am reading.

So in general terms cruising at 100kph something around 27 MAP would be good and under load 30-32?

threedogs
18th January 2015, 12:04 PM
Been driving in the lower ratio on the auto, as you would expect EGTs were similar to a manual DI.
Makes sense more revs so gas gets out quicker so lower EGTs
And yes mine will hit 20 psi but it wont stay there [spikes]
I would say EGTs only slightly higher than Mudski
thats the difference between a manual and an auto I suppose.
Next trip to the Murray I might sit on 100kph in the lower ratio and see what happens


@ Mego Id be getting worried with temps that high,
maybe back the chip off two marks and see if that helps

the evil twin
18th January 2015, 12:56 PM
OK. I have set the Scangauge to show boost by subtracting 14.7 psi from MAP so that is why I was freaking out at the numbers you are talking about. Maybe I should switch to MAP so I get a more accurate reading. Just need to recalibrate my mind so I understand the figures I am reading.

So in general terms cruising at 100kph something around 27 MAP would be good and under load 30-32?

IMHO (I posted similar to this somewhere else recently) MAP is more relevant than boost pressure.

Why? Because the reason the ECU monitors intake pressure is so it can limit boost to the engine cylinder pressure specification.
MAP is an absolute reading at the manifold so;
MAP X Compression ratio = Cylinder Pressure no matter what the loacal atmospheric pressure is.

Boost Pressure is the differential pressure across the Turbo IE Turbo outlet pressure - Turbo inlet pressure = Boost Pressure
Boost pressure is not an absolute, it is gauge reading so boost needs atmospheric added to it IE;
Boost Pressure + Atmospheric Pressure X Compression ratio = Cylinder Pressure

Atmospheric is a variable depending on temperature, altitude and air density
Atmospheric pressure of 14.7 is only true at sea level with an air temp of 15 degrees and standard air density.

Now the difference between the lowest and highest atmospheric pressures you will experince driving in Oz isn't a lot.
Only a couple of PSI at most but IMHO if you have MAP available it is better to use it.

Rock Trol
18th January 2015, 01:03 PM
Thanks ET. The reason I changed the scangauge from MAP to boost was because most people use this when posting on forums so it was easier to follow what was going on. I will change it back to MAP.

What MAP psi should I be looking at?
- Cruising at 100kph - 27?
- Foot to the floor? (35-40?)

the evil twin
18th January 2015, 01:45 PM
Thanks ET. The reason I changed the scangauge from MAP to boost was because most people use this when posting on forums so it was easier to follow what was going on. I will change it back to MAP.

What MAP psi should I be looking at?
- Cruising at 100kph - 27?
- Foot to the floor? (35-40?)

Depends on the vehicle, Dawes or ECU, VNT tweaked or factory, load, etc
I would SWAG it as 30 ish MAP flat wack and 25 ish at 100

mudski
18th January 2015, 10:22 PM
Hey mudski how many psi do you have at 100kmh?
About 18 mate.

When you guys are talking about running 20-25psi boost, is that just a peak before it drops down or is it steady at that boost?
Mine is peak. When I'm giving it the berries....

big_fletch
19th January 2015, 08:30 PM
I have 2.5" lift (closer too 3"), 33's, roofrack, drawes, winch ect..
I Have a Voltage Modifier on my MAF in my troll so I run 9 psi roughly at 100km/h, EGT'S around 320 degrees.
Max boost at 20psi and I can hit that going up a hill or headwind putting my foot down and sit on 20psi all day long till I reach the top.
EGT'S even towing nearly 2ton with a/c on I'm struggling too go over 500 degrees.
I'm averaging 11.8ltrs per 100 atm on Highway without towing, around 15.5-16 towing just under 2ton.
I'm still using factory MAF housing as well and VNT turned down 1/4 of a turn
I may get a boost spike too 22 psi but drops straight down too 20psi and sits there till I back off

Fletcha

Rock Trol
19th January 2015, 09:48 PM
I have Dawes and needle valve on mine (EGR block). Driving to work today if I gave it a bit it would go to 29 psi MAP but stayed around 20 most of the time so sounds about right until I get onto the highway.

the evil twin
19th January 2015, 09:57 PM
I have Dawes and needle valve on mine (EGR block). Driving to work today if I gave it a bit it would go to 29 psi MAP but stayed around 20 most of the time so sounds about right until I get onto the highway.

Too low... give it a bit of a tweak I reckon.

I recall someone saying crank it till it limps and back it off a tad... or was that wheel nut torque (do one up till it snaps and back the wrench off 5 ft/lbs).
Mind you I've never set up a Dawes and Needle so what would I know

mudski
19th January 2015, 10:41 PM
Just remember. The max boost is relative to the cruise boost. I.e 100kph boost. The best results I have found is around 8psi difference between max boost and 100kph boost. So the higher mac boost you go the higher cruise boost too. If not you will find the spool up rate of the turbo too slow and the engine sluggish. I will vary a little between cars but thats an average.

Rock Trol
19th January 2015, 10:59 PM
I'll try that on the weekend Mudski. Car feels pretty good though. When I had it set on boost it would sit around 12psi at 100 and max at around 18. Its a CRD so running a bit more boost is probably good for it. I read on here that 10psi at 100 is good but I could not adjust it down that low as the spool rate was too slow and car felt sluggish. When I adjusted mine I found a sweet spot and if I tried to go over (more boost) or under it the car did not run as well. Might tinker with it a bit more when I get the chance.

With the scangauge set to MAP what is a good max boost? 35psi? I think that equates to about 20psi boost. When I turned the car off today I kept an eye on the scangauge and it came down to 14.3 psi which I think is the atmospheric pressure. That would make the 29psi MAP about 15psi boost which is pretty good.

Remdogg
20th January 2015, 07:53 AM
I'll try that on the weekend Mudski. Car feels pretty good though. When I had it set on boost it would sit around 12psi at 100 and max at around 18. Its a CRD so running a bit more boost is probably good for it. I read on here that 10psi at 100 is good but I could not adjust it down that low as the spool rate was too slow and car felt sluggish. When I adjusted mine I found a sweet spot and if I tried to go over (more boost) or under it the car did not run as well. Might tinker with it a bit more when I get the chance.

With the scangauge set to MAP what is a good max boost? 35psi? I think that equates to about 20psi boost. When I turned the car off today I kept an eye on the scangauge and it came down to 14.3 psi which I think is the atmospheric pressure. That would make the 29psi MAP about 15psi boost which is pretty good.


That's pretty well what my crd is set on and feels good. More boost did have my egts lower when I was flogging it but went to limp mode after about a week so I took 2 psi out of it. Spikes to 20 then settles to 18 and cruise is about 12 ish but very hard to measure. Haven't hit limp again.

threedogs
20th January 2015, 08:24 AM
Been driving my auto in the lower ratio the last two days EGTs are around 200C
so revs has a lot to do with it as well

threedogs
21st January 2015, 10:24 AM
well just drove to the doctors about 15 k using the lower ratio on the auto
cruising on 60,70 and 80 egts were 200c they went up under throttle and settled back very fast
Its about 30 degrees ATM in Melb

Sir Roofy
21st January 2015, 03:17 PM
well just drove to the doctors about 15 k using the lower ratio on the auto
cruising on 60,70 and 80 egts were 200c they went up under throttle and settled back very fast
Its about 30 degrees ATM in Melb

yea mine was about the same (manual) went to Warragul about 20ks and back
at Yarragon there is a slight rise from the lights to near united temp went to 290
or a tad more then settled back to 220 on the run home

threedogs
21st January 2015, 04:19 PM
going by your results seems it works on RPM
and not KPH like most have done. that being the case
how many RPM at 100KPH for a manual 3 ltr DI,
please give tyres as either 265s or 285s

Hodge
21st January 2015, 08:35 PM
I forgot to get back on this topic. @ 100km/ph flat roat, cruising, my RPM is 2350-2400. 5th gear.