ZD30 loss of power

[Remdogg]

The other day my car lost power above 2200rpm. It still had good power down low but then it just goes no where after that. My boost drops from 18 to about 15 psi but should still have good power. The egt's won't go above 300 c even if i keep my foot flat to the floor. no engine light comes on but the cruise control just flashes the "set" light when I turn it on, not sure if thats a different issue.

I was thinking maybe MAF or diesel filter but was wondering what others think.

[threedogs]

MAF is easy enough to clean .
are all IC hoses on and tight especially the blue one in the pic .
I take it its a DI, check all vacuum hoses as well.
Disconnect the battery for 30 mins too
might be one for ET about the CC light

[Lexx]

Sounds suspiciously like a boost leak somewhere, as Threedogs is suggesting with his hose checks. Is there any dirty residue near the hose joins or the intercooler?

[threedogs]

manifolds have been known to warp and require machining

[the evil twin]

The other day my car lost power above 2200rpm. It still had good power down low but then it just goes no where after that. My boost drops from 18 to about 15 psi but should still have good power. The egt's won't go above 300 c even if i keep my foot flat to the floor. no engine light comes on but the cruise control just flashes the "set" light when I turn it on, not sure if thats a different issue.

I was thinking maybe MAF or diesel filter but was wondering what others think.

CRD or Di ?
Have you done any tinkering or mods recently?
When was the last time the fuel filter was changed?
Have you inspected the VNT control hoses for splits etc?
Checked the Intercooler for leaks wheer the plenums are crimped to the core?
Unusual symptoms for a MAF but cleaning it will rule it out (and is an easy thing. It always pays to do the easy stuff first)

Cruise Control - the light will flash and CC will not engage if you try and set Cruise Control with out having made a brake application.
That is part of the self test to make sure the CC Brake Pedal Switch is OK.
Is that maybe what happened?

[Hodge]

EGT's won't go above 300. I doubt this would be boost leaks etc... IF boost was leaking EGT's would be through the roof ?
This sounds MAF or fuel related, as in no fuel being pumped in above certain revs, hence no fuel being burnt hence not a high EGT rise?
As others have said clean the MAF, check fuel filter as easy eliminations.

[threedogs]

Only do one fix at a time then you'll know what the problem will be.

[4bye4]

Only do one fix at a time then you'll know what the problem will be.

Hey TD, do you or did you ever work on a race pit crew?

[Remdogg]

Well I don't have a scan gauge but I do have a scan tool and it had an over boost error and a brake switch correlation error. I hadn't checked it earlier because the engine light never came on but it must have been in limp mode. I've got the boost set on about 17psi now and have slowed the spool rate but if I slow it any more its sluggish but it still spikes to 20 psi before settling. Was wondering if that green dampener thing should be on the line straight from the vacuum pump or between the Dawes and turbo. Or maybe put a second one between the turbo.

[threedogs]

Hey TD, do you or did you ever work on a race pit crew?

nah used to race unlimited production bikes for a while long time ago now

[threedogs]

check the brake light switch as the computer gets confused
when getting mixed messages like brake light on and
trying to accelerate at the same time

[the evil twin]

check the brake light switch as the computer gets confused
when getting mixed messages like brake light on and
trying to accelerate at the same time

What he said X 2... as prev posted it could also explain the CC problem.
There are two switches on the brake pedal, check both

It would have been a lot better if you mentioned that you had Dawes and Needle valve mods earlier as well
Any other mods that may be an issue like chips etc?

[mudski]

The vac dampener goes in line from the vacuum pump...