coolant/radiator issues

[dannypatrol]

HI everyone, hope you all had a good xmas. I went away to Coffs Harbour. Didn't do any 4wd but went on unpaved roads to reach campsites.
Yesterday I drove back to Brisbane, a 450ish km drive on which I drove most of the time 110ish km/h. Did it in 3 pieces with some 10min breaks. On the last bit, i stopped for fuel and noticed suddenly a lot of coolant disappearing out of mine outflow tube (the tube that clears it onto the road). Checking coolant levels, all seem to be fine, although hot but not boiling. This didnt worried me so I continued to drive the last 50km home. The temp gauge moved a couple of times between 1/3 and 1/2 but never further than 1/2way. Today checking the radiator and coolant bottle, both seemed very empty (eg. I could not see anything in the coolant bottle and radiator). I had to top up the radiator with 4 liters! and the coolant bottle as well. I wasnt parked level, but with front down but still expected to see sufficient in the radiator. There is nice flow through the radiator when the car is started and the hoses look fine.

Bit of history about the car. I bought it a while ago for a big lap which I am planning to do next year, it is my first car and I dont know much about engines so used this forum a lot to gain some knowledge. The car is awesome and it is amazing to just be able to drive on the beach etc (we dont really have that in the Netherlands).
I had on bribie some overheating issues (see an earlier treat) , which I solved with the help of a mechanic by replacing the viscous fan and thermostat. After that I had no issues anymore besides one time on a very hot day where my LPG wouldnt start right away but after four times (see another treat), but this was discarded as extremely hot weather.
Yesterday wasnt a really hot day, it was rather cool and it was raining a lot. I was running on LPG and doing 110km/h most of the time.
This kind of worries me that there are still some problems out there and I want to prevent to encounter a blown engine in the middle of no where on the big lap.

Anybody any advise?

[megatexture]

Mate I think you need a after market temp guage to see what its really doing.

Is your shroud in good condition and the right size for the radiator? I can't remember.
Or have you been bush and the radiator needs a clean out?
That radiator is huge I just can't see how you could be having issues.

[the evil twin]

The engine should be running cool as if it is raining.

The temp gauge should also be relatively steady.
A wandering temp gauge means problems.

Could be a few things and maybe a compression test is in order, how many K's on the vehicle.

If you were getting overheating before and have replaced the fan clutch and thermostat and if the shrouds etc are all OK I would be thinking of getting the Radiator rodded.
Just flushing them doesn't work all that well it is best to remove the Rad and get it serviced correctly.

[dannypatrol]

Mate I think you need a after market temp guage to see what its really doing.

Is your shroud in good condition and the right size for the radiator? I can't remember.
Or have you been bush and the radiator needs a clean out?
That radiator is huge I just can't see how you could be having issues.

yeah, I think you are right, need an aftermarket temp gauge. Was initially thinking of ecu thingy, but got put off by the price.
I hit some dirt road for 30min and it was a bit dusty, but then it poured rain for 3 days and it all looked pretty good. The only thing I can think of is that the radiator is partly blocked, but because it is all welded up, there is no way to check it.

When we replaced the viscous fan and thermostat everything looked ok (even the viscous fan wasnt that bad, what always worried me a bit, leaving the possibility there is another part contributing to the problem). But shroud looked good as well

[dannypatrol]

The engine should be running cool as if it is raining.

The temp gauge should also be relatively steady.
A wandering temp gauge means problems.

Could be a few things and maybe a compression test is in order, how many K's on the vehicle.

If you were getting overheating before and have replaced the fan clutch and thermostat and if the shrouds etc are all OK I would be thinking of getting the Radiator rodded.
Just flushing them doesn't work all that well it is best to remove the Rad and get it serviced correctly.

the temp gauge was relatively steady, it wandered three times in the last bit but within a very small range. I figured it might have been a bit of the cold water I added. Alternatively, it is likely I maybe even was running partly on air (considering I was missing 4l coolant).

I am unsure how a compression test is done but we checked for cracked head etc. I think you might be right about the radiator, it is just welded up so not an easy job but might be best indeed.

[megatexture]

That radiator looked near new when I saw it and I'd be surprised if its blocked internally but you never know.

You could even try flushing water through it in reverse (into the bottom and out the top) as sometimes that can flush out a fair bit but it would let you see if there are any traces of crap in there then decide if you want to get it rodded

[dannypatrol]

yeah can try that, cheers. The radiator looks pretty new but I am unsure at this point what else it can be

[mudnut]

I sincerely hope I am wrong, and I only have an RB30, but the signs that you describe are nearly exactly what happened to my vehicle. It turned out to be two split fire rings in the head gasket. The engine didn't miss a beat and the temp barely changed, but after a long trip, the water was forced out of the overflow, and it took a couple of litres of water. After the head gasket was replaced, the water pump seal gave way as it was the weakest link in the system.

[dannypatrol]

I sincerely hope I am wrong, and I only have an RB30, but the signs that you describe are nearly exactly what happened to my vehicle. It turned out to be two split fire rings in the head gasket. The engine didn't miss a beat and the temp barely changed, but after a long trip, the water was forced out of the overflow, and it took a couple of litres of water. After the head gasket was replaced, the water pump seal gave way as it was the weakest link in the system.

Dham that wouldnt be good. Any advise how to check on this? We checked for cracked heads by measuring the air but no visual inspection. You reckon it would be good to check the split fire rings and water pump seal?

[mudnut]

Following the advice of a mate who is an old school mechanic, I removed the water pump belt to stop the water being agitated and creating bubbles. I fitted a half bottle ( I used a threaded male to male joiner siliconned in the neck of an old coolant bottle) to the bleed point near the front top of the block. With the radiator cap on I then Idled the engine for a couple of minutes. When I revved it up (momentarily), the coolant was forced out of the bottle. But mine is an RB30, so a 4.5 is different. Also get the test done in as short a time as possible. I didn't let the engine run for more than 7 minutes, to avoid damage to the block. And the engine was cold before the test. And don't forget to refit the belt! The water pump seal manifested itself as a white salty stain at the bottom front of the engine, and also the smell of coolant when the engine was hot. Hopefully someone who has a 4.5 can tell you how to test it without causing damage.

[jay see]

I have a 4.5 and it was getting a bit hot when on idle for a few minutes or being stuck in the traffic. Just enough for the elec fan to kick in, but with air flow no problem. The Tallarook drive about 6 weeks ago I ran most of the day at a little under 3/4. Being the first summer with this car and having a sh!t of a time with my last 4wd, I thought I need to sort this out.
I took out the radiator and noticed some dry mud on the outside of the arc of the fan behind the shroud, just above the bottom outlet point of the radiator. Meaning that hot coolant is entering. Cleaned it inside out, put back in, fill radiator, start car, take out top hose from the radiator. As temp starts to raise and the thermostat begins to open keep filling the radiator, this will push all the old coolant out. Once it is just water refit top hose put 5l of concentrate and top up with water.
My temp now gets to the correct level and doesn't move regardless of outside conditions.

[dannypatrol]

I have a 4.5 and it was getting a bit hot when on idle for a few minutes or being stuck in the traffic. Just enough for the elec fan to kick in, but with air flow no problem. The Tallarook drive about 6 weeks ago I ran most of the day at a little under 3/4. Being the first summer with this car and having a sh!t of a time with my last 4wd, I thought I need to sort this out.
I took out the radiator and noticed some dry mud on the outside of the arc of the fan behind the shroud, just above the bottom outlet point of the radiator. Meaning that hot coolant is entering. Cleaned it inside out, put back in, fill radiator, start car, take out top hose from the radiator. As temp starts to raise and the thermostat begins to open keep filling the radiator, this will push all the old coolant out. Once it is just water refit top hose put 5l of concentrate and top up with water.
My temp now gets to the correct level and doesn't move regardless of outside conditions.

Thank mate! Will have a look

[dannypatrol]

Happy newyear everyone, I am working on my car and can't find anything weird. Hoses getting old (crack a little bit when i squueze them) so i will replace those. I am buying some extra coolant today so I can flush the system again. I was also thinking again about what could have happened on the high way. I noticed a little bit of dried stuff around the radiator cap light so liquid seeped out a bit. Considering contained sand dust, it might been that the engine got pretty hot offroad. Then I drive 400k on the road, stopped and coolant comes out of the overflow tube. Than i topped up water and find next day my radiator half empty. Can somebody enlighten me a bit more about how the cooling system should work and why coolant would come from the overflow tube? Was there like an enormous air bubble in the system or something?
How difficult is it to access the state of the heads? Or is it something I should let a mechanic do?

[threedogs]

@ Jay Cee and the others have you removed your radiator and given it a good clean ,
you'll find say the bottom 3"-4" of the radiator blocked with dust which turns to mud.
Could clean a bit at the car wash but dont pull the trigger

[jay see]

I'm pretty sure that this was my problem.

53309

[threedogs]

That what was what I mean't, wow clean that would make a huge difference
It would be well ,normal lol

[jay see]

That was after a clean while it was in the car.

[dannypatrol]

I haven't been able to take the radiator completely out but it didn't look very dirty. Hope it is as simple as, really no idea what else it could be. will take it out when the hoses arrive. I decided on replacing them because although they are not leaking, they are cracking a bit. Still try to figure out more about the condition of the heads, don't want to be in middle of a desert with cracked ones :s

Been looking at after market temp sensors, seem to be around 140. Might it be better to get an ecu talk considering its only 130 more? Or is it best not to use Nissans own sensor at all?

[megatexture]

Super cheap auto will do mate.
Check your radiator for spare bungs for the sensor that's supplied with the kit. If not you can put a adapter on the top hose to mount the sensor

The only thing else you may need would possibly be a pod
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/SAAS-Gauge-Black-Face-52mm-Water-Temp.aspx?pid=288077#Recommendations

[jay see]

Super cheap auto will do mate.
Check your radiator for spare bungs for the sensor that's supplied with the kit.

I didn't think you could put a sender in the radiator. Is there a free spot in the thermostat housing. I putting one in mine, but don't like the look of the inline ones.

[dannypatrol]

I didn't think you could put a sender in the radiator. Is there a free spot in the thermostat housing. I putting one in mine, but don't like the look of the inline ones.

I am unsure what the best place would be, what's the thermostat housing?

[NP99]

I am unsure what the best place would be, what's the thermostat housing?

Follow the top radiator hose from the radiator to the thermostat housing Danny

[megatexture]

I didn't think you could put a sender in the radiator. Is there a free spot in the thermostat housing. I putting one in mine, but don't like the look of the inline ones.

Not sure why you couldn't? Well not that I have heard anyways, I just thought being an aftermarket radiator his may have a bung for accessories( low coolant alarm, temp sender etc). I've been using an inline one for 5 yrs now without any leaks.

[NP99]

I think you can also put one in the hose. Eric from down Coffs Harbour did one last year from memory.

[jay see]

Yeah that would be a inline one.
I'll rather put on in the the thermostat, looks neater IMO.

[megatexture]

Danny I just remembered I have a spare plastic pod that came with a gauge if you want it its yours, I didn't use it as it didn't match my others

[dannypatrol]

Danny I just remembered I have a spare plastic pod that came with a gauge if you want it its yours, I didn't use it as it didn't match my others

Thanks :) heading to supercheap today to look for the gauge and sensor. Will look if the radiator has one of those inline and otherwise try to fit it in thermohousing.

I contacted pwr for any of there advise, considering the radiator can't be opened and cleaned, but they couldn't do much.
So if I fitted the temp stuff, then just do a test drive and record temps?

[threedogs]

Cant you get an alloy bung tigged into the top tank somewhere?

[nissannewby]

Not sure why you couldn't? Well not that I have heard anyways, I just thought being an aftermarket radiator his may have a bung for accessories( low coolant alarm, temp sender etc). I've been using an inline one for 5 yrs now without any leaks.

It needs to be after the thermostat but as close to it as possible to give you a more accurate reading of the water temp in the motor.

[dannypatrol]

Yeah that would be a inline one.
I'll rather put on in the the thermostat, looks neater IMO.

How did you put it in the thermostat??

[jay see]

How did you put it in the thermostat??

Sorry, thermostat housing.

[dannypatrol]

Sorry, thermostat housing.

Ok was there already a connection or do you have to drill something?

[jay see]

Ok was there already a connection or do you have to drill something?

Haven't had a chance to have a proper look, maybe someone has already done this.

[dannypatrol]

So ended up getting the car checked out by a radiator specialist which got some good reviews. Everything looks fine and the pressure test is good. There seems to be a bit of corrosion in the radiator so they think the radiator is clogged up. The radiator is an aftermarket PWR aluminium one and cant be open up and they think soaking wouldnt be sufficient. They recommend a bras one costing around 800. Any thoughts?

[threedogs]

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/221507340331?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Not sure what you drive but this is cheap as chips

[dannypatrol]

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/221507340331?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Not sure what you drive but this is cheap as chips

wow how is that possible? that is ridiculously cheap

[megatexture]

So ended up getting the car checked out by a radiator specialist which got some good reviews. Everything looks fine and the pressure test is good. There seems to be a bit of corrosion in the radiator so they think the radiator is clogged up. The radiator is an aftermarket PWR aluminium one and cant be open up and they think soaking wouldnt be sufficient. They recommend a bras one costing around 800. Any thoughts?

Did you try flushing it out? The one you have looks bloody new mate surely it can be flushed out! Even just remove the hoses and flush it on the car.

Ill pm you later tonight with a day this weekend to see if its suitable with you to look at what you plan on doing re the wiring.and check out that fuse

[dannypatrol]

Did you try flushing it out? The one you have looks bloody new mate surely it can be flushed out! Even just remove the hoses and flush it on the car.

Ill pm you later tonight with a day this weekend to see if its suitable with you to look at what you plan on doing re the wiring.and check out that fuse

I was planning on to but havent had time yet. This week one of my mates got a new radiator and recommended to get it checked by red devil so I figured why not. They reckon there is too much corrosion or something.

[megatexture]

I was planning on to but havent had time yet. This week one of my mates got a new radiator and recommended to get it checked by red devil so I figured why not. They reckon there is too much corrosion or something.

I know the feeling I need 48 hrs in a day to get everything done lol.

[dannypatrol]

I know the feeling I need 48 hrs in a day to get everything done lol.

Lol wish I remembered who once said better to much to do then nothing to do lol

[dannypatrol]

Update: they were skeptical about getting the pwr unblocked. Pwr isnt able to open them up and even if i find someone to open it up, it would cost $730 to replace a core. Bit of a shame considering it is only 4 years old and hasnt done many kms, not sure what went wrong,pwr pointed in the possibility that the engine is too old or coolant not fresh. I didnt want to play with flushing etc because i just want something that works now. In addition i like the idea that the copper one can be opened up and cleaned by a radiator specialist.

Red devil recommended a copper/ brass Adrad radiator so I got one fitted. They flushed and tested the whole system and it runs cooler so far. I just need to put the aftermarket sensor in. Hopefully the radiator keeps everything running fine on the big lap!