Gauge fitting questions TD42i

[Cuppa]

My Genie exhaust system has arrived & I’ve realised that if I am going to fit a pyro gauge it would make sense to do this prior to installing the pipe. Because there seems like there is little option to fit the gauge neatly other than a pillar pod it’s looking increasingly likely that I’ll end up fitting two gauges so I don’t have a pillar pod with an empty position.

The two gauges that are currently in my sights are Redarc (previously Autron) LCD items - the EGT & Boost (G52-EB) , and the Oil pressure/Coolant temperature (G52-PWT).

All are supplied with ⅛” NPT threaded sensors.

1. The Genie exhaust has a ¼” BSP threaded Pyro boss. Is it acceptable to use a ¼”BSP to ⅛”NPT adaptor & is there a preferred material for the adaptor? (I’ve only seen brass)

2. Where would I fit oil pressure & coolant temperature sensors on the TD42i? Would I need adaptors to be able to use the ⅛”NPT sensors? (Hoping the air bleed threaded hole on the thermostat housing isn’t needed for the temp gauge as I’m already utilising it for my low coolant alarm)

3. Where does the boost gauge attach to? Is there already a take off point or is drilling & tapping somewhere required?

[BillsGU]

My Autron gauge came with a round metal piece that was threaded to take the pyro. It was welded to the dump pipe just under the turbo. Adaptors would work but the correct fitting comes with the gauge - may as well use it. Good idea to get it welded on to the pipe before the exhaust is installed as (in a ZD30 anyway) its not that easy to get to with a mig once it is fitted. The supplied fitting is steel not brass. Not sure if that makes a difference.

My boost tube fit into my IC. As it is aftermarket it already had an port to screw a barb fitting into. Again - don't know about the 4.2 but for the ZD30 you can get a block that piggy backs underneath the factory boost sensor. Very neat and simple.

Can't help you with the other sensors.

[Cuppa]

Adaptors would work but the correct fitting comes with the gauge - may as well use it.


Thanks, but the point is my new exhaust already has a threaded pyro fitting (steel) welded into the dump pipe but with a larger diameter (¼”) than the Autron/Redarc sensor (⅛”).

No idea if the 4.2 has a factory boost sensor to piggy back off (but I doubt it).

[macca]

Cuppa, I'm not sure if it's the best pick up for boost. I put my sensor in the small rubber hose that comes off the back of the intercooler. Put a tee piece in the hose and connected the sensor / sender unit there.

[nissannewby]

1. Use an adaptor it will be fine. Use a stainless one if you can. Google industrial fitting sales.

2. The factory oil pressure sensor is next to the oil filters and you can use a T piece. You can also use the ports on the passenger side that were used for the vac pump alternators. 1/8 for the oil should be right. Your temp sensor needs to go after the thermostat but before the radiator. I would also recommend moving your low level sensor if this is viable.

3. Boost gauge can go as Macca has described. Or if possible into the intake manifold but maccas idea is fine and is easy.

[Wizard52]

Cuppa, I'm not sure if it's the best pick up for boost. I put my sensor in the small rubber hose that comes off the back of the intercooler. Put a tee piece in the hose and connected the sensor / sender unit there.

Hi Cuppa
I did the same but make sure hose is firmly secured to tee piece as mine came off recently resulting in no boost. As it is almost out of sight, it is the last hose you look at when trying to find the reason for no boost.

[megatexture]

Cuppa I've looked at drilling and threading the bung as we discussed but after comparing the two I don't think there's enough thickness remaining once done to make it strong enough as you can see in the pic, the whole bung would have to be drilled inorder to thread it. So based on this I'm not going to bother attempting it.

I'll try this mob next week that's around the corner from me and let you know how I go and by the looks they have shops down south also. http://www.indfit.com/product.html

[Cuppa]

That’s a shame MT. Let me know how you go with Industrial Fitting Sales. That’s the mob Matt suggested. I found their online catalogue http://www.ifsaus.com.au/onlinecat.html but couldn’t find any BSP to NPT adapters in it, but your link suggests they do do them, although based on your pic I’d still wonder if any adapter was going to be lacking in wall thickness. Maybe I need to have another look. I have also asked Redarc if they can suggest a source of adapters (they offer ¼NPT sensors - not sure if this can be screwed into ¼BSP boss?). I will also contact Genie to see what suggestions they have, they must be aware that most sensors have NPT threads & as they choose to install BSP bungs presumably will have had to answer this query from others before. Will keep my fingers crossed that you come up trumps with your enquiry.


EDIT: Just found these from the US http://www.ebay.com/itm/Viair-90001-1-8-Female-BSP-1-4-Male-NPT-Adaptor-2-Piece-/281282754964?pt=Pneumatic_Hydraulic_Valves_Parts&hash=item417dc23994 - would work out to be about Aus$17 each, not sure if brass would be ok .... Matt suggested stainless???

[BillsGU]

Save yourself a lot of mucking around and just weld on the bung that comes with the gauge. Its simple to do - especially if the exhaust is off.

[Cuppa]

Hi Bill, not that simple unfotunately. certainly the bung already welded on could be cut off & a new one welded on, but whether the weld would be any good or not is debatable. The issue is that these are ceramic coated dump pipes we are talking about. At best any welding would destroy the ceramic coating. Besides alteration on a new item like this should not be necessary. I find it hard to believe that we are the first purchasers of a Genie pipe to come across this problem, & suspect there will be a simple, less drastic & locally available solution. I’ll post the question in the Genie section of the forum directing them to this thread, & see what they suggest.

[Oldmate1]

Hi cuppa
Pm your address and I'll send you a compression fitting that will work. What is the probe dia

[Cuppa]

Thanks Oldmate, PM sent, a larger diameter compression fitting to suit the supplied pyro probe sounds like a better solution than a reducer/adaptor fitting. PM sent.

[BillsGU]

OK - I didn't realise it was coated. You are right in that someone must have done this before. Hopefully Genie will be able to assist - or maybe send you another (exchange) dump pipe with the correct fitting? If you have non matching threads you may not be able to position the sensor correctly. It may not make much difference - but the probe tip should sit in the centre of the pipe.

[megatexture]

Hi cuppa
Pm your address and I'll send you a compression fitting that will work. What is the probe dia

I'll try the place around the corner from me but if that fails if you could point me in the right direction would be appreciated!

my probe is 3.15 mm How much would the part your referring to cost and what part number / address I can pick one up from
:cheers:

[firm351]

I'll try the place around the corner from me but if that fails if you could point me in the right direction would be appreciated!

my probe is 3.15 mm How much would the part your referring to cost and what part number / address I can pick one up from
:cheers:

Try one of these mate just make sure the thermocouple probe goes all the way through the fitting. You can probaby get them elsewhere but I know blackwoods do them.
https://www.blackwoods.com.au/part/02726913/connector-male-bi-lok-3ss-18x14-bsp

[Oldmate1]

I'll try the place around the corner from me but if that fails if you could point me in the right direction would be appreciated!

my probe is 3.15 mm How much would the part your referring to cost and what part number / address I can pick one up from
:cheers:

hi troy
i sell them at work http://www.onetemp.com.au/p/1384/cfs-compression-fittings-bsp-thread
ron

[the evil twin]

snip...

The two gauges that are currently in my sights are Redarc (previously Autron) LCD items - the EGT & Boost (G52-EB) , and the Oil pressure/Coolant temperature (G52-PWT).

All are supplied with ⅛” NPT threaded sensors.

1. The Genie exhaust has a ¼” BSP threaded Pyro boss. Is it acceptable to use a ¼”BSP to ⅛”NPT adaptor & is there a preferred material for the adaptor? (I’ve only seen brass)



Hi Cuppa,

Step 1 - Buy the EGT & Boost (G52-EB) Gauge
Step 2 - Discard the NPT compression fitting supplied with the guage
Step 3 - Purchase the BSP compression fitting from Blackwoods, Coventrys, Repco, Mudski, One Temp etc
Step 4 - Screw the BSP compression fitting into the BSP thread on the Genie pipe
Step 5 - Slide the thermocouple into the fitting and clamp with the probe tip approx centre of pipe dia
Step 6 - Sit back with a brew and enjoy a job well done

Make sure you put the kettle on before you start... you will still be waiting for it to boil when you finish

[Cuppa]

2. The factory oil pressure sensor is next to the oil filters and you can use a T piece. You can also use the ports on the passenger side that were used for the vac pump alternators. 1/8 for the oil should be right.

Could someone post up a pic or diagram identifying where these ports on the passenger side are please.

[Hardyards]

Hey Cuppa,
I used one of these on my ute to fit the oil temp/pressure gauge senders. You can stipulate the type of thread for your senders you require. They just fit between the oil filter and block and I have not had a leak since fitting mine. Easy as! Google oil sandwich plate.


54847

Cheers

[nissannewby]

Here you go cuppa. You can see the back of the alternator as reference.

[Cuppa]

Thanks Matt, looks like access is far easier there than in around the oil filter area. Should I expect much oil to come out when I remove the bolt?

[nissannewby]

Thanks Matt, looks like access is far easier there than in around the oil filter area. Should I expect much oil to come out when I remove the bolt?

No maybe a small dribble. You will need to use the smaller of the 2 ports as the larger port is a return port.

[Cuppa]

No maybe a small dribble. You will need to use the smaller of the 2 ports as the larger port is a return port.

Glad you told me that, I can only see one port in your pic - arrowed in the pic below. I just went out to my car to see if I could locate the second. Hard to see because there are a few hoses in the way but I think there is a second one where I’ve put the circle. It has a banjo union on it with a metal pipe heading toward the rear of the motor. Does that sound right?
Looks as though the one to use is the arrowed one? yes?

[nissannewby]

About an inch or so directly behind the one you have put an arrow on is a small 1/8 pressure port. I can grab a better pic after work if you like.

[Cuppa]

I took a pic myself this morning Matt. Either I’m not recognising what I’m looking at, or it’s a case of the distance being that awkward position just out of range of my reading glasses & but still a little too close for me to get a sharp focus on.

1” behind must mean what I’ve arrowed on this pic I suppose? It’s tiny, much smaller that the ⅛ NPT sender unit I have. Still not sure that this is what you mean as there are more of what look the the same further rearward on the motor (at the same level). If it is the port I suppose it must need an allen key to extract it. I can’t see it clearly enough to be sure.

[nissannewby]

Yes that's the one cuppa and yes there are a couple more along that side but that is the easiest to access. Yes it is an Allen key and it's a 1/8 port so your fitting should be fine. It is a little deceiving. They can be stubborn sometimes so be sure the Allen key is inserted all the way and possibly use a touch of penetrant.

[Cuppa]

Further to my previous post I just found this pic of a TD42 with vacuum pump on the alternator online (sharing the pump’s oil return with turbo oil return). It certainly does seem to suggest that where I arrowed in my post above is the feed port you mean. If so I think I’ll use the drivers side for my feed - (near to oil filters or a ‘sandwich plate’) because it looks like the pump feed blanking plug looks like it could be a real pr*ck to get out & would then need an adaptor plus sender unit - a fair bit of weight on a narrow support base.
A shame because it’s harder to get at the drivers side feed. Really not sure about the sandwich plate idea, lots of online reports of them leaking & also would make access for oil filter replacement in an already tight area even tighter.

EDIT: Thanks for the confirmation Matt. You posted as I was typing.
SECOND EDIT: My reading suggests the oil ports (either side of the motor) are ⅛”BSPT & that it would be unwise to try to screw a ⅛” NPT fitting into it.

[Cuppa]

Having cleaned around that passenger side oil feed it does appear bigger than at first look, (it is correct that it is a little deceiving) & potentially useful after all. If only I could get the little bugger to move! I’ve sprayed heaps of CRC & RP7 on it, cleaned out it’s middle so I can get an allen key fully in, & with as much pressure as I dare & I can’t get it to shift. Using a ¼” socket drive handle with an allen key bit. No clearance to get in with an impact driver, am thinking I may need to try some heat. Perhaps a rag dunked in boiling water & then held over the plug in the hope that the casing will expand more than the plug?

Any other ideas?

[nissannewby]

As hot as it might be take it for a drive.

[Cuppa]

Seems like a lost cause. Been for a 20km drive, returned, gloved up & tried again. No joy. Looks like it has some sort of sealant on it’s thread. Feels like the allen key is starting to be a less tight fit. :( Drivers side increasingly looking like it’ll have to do. Will try again as things cool down though.