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Danjo
22nd December 2014, 04:18 PM
Hi guys, I just bought a 2nd hand Patrol, I packed it for its Maiden trip on Saturday and i'd pulled up at a set of lights after driving for half an hour, went to take off and it stalled and wouldn't restart. It had stalled once or twice before over the couple weeks I've owned it and I didn't think much too much of it, because she runs great all other times.

Tried priming the pump to get it to run, no good.
Tried start ya bastard, would run on that, but no good as if no fuel delivery.
Tried cracking injector No.1 and primed for bout 20mins and still no fuel from injectors
Tried removing the outlet line for the filter and there was a steady flow of fuel each time i primed the pump.

I had read somewhere that if you have fuel in the sub tank, it will use fuel from the sub tank to start and then switch over to the main. Can anyone confirm this for me, just curious because I'm unsure of how long the subtank had been empty and if it had air in its line, and if so if is there anyway to bleed that line.

Any help would be greatly appreciated thanks guys

Danjo

Winnie
22nd December 2014, 04:24 PM
The car will never run off the sub tank, it will pump a small amount of fuel into main tank on start up, if there is fuel available to be pumped.

Hodge
22nd December 2014, 04:28 PM
This would have nothing to do with the sub tank.
So If i understood this correctly... Fuel flows steady on the OUT line of the filter, but not at injector?
This has the injector pump symptoms. Do you have access to a code reader like Scangauge or something? If not I'd head to super cheap, they charge a small fee to plug their device in and read for any codes. I'd start here, and could give you a heads up as to where it's gone pear shaped.

Danjo
22nd December 2014, 04:48 PM
This would have nothing to do with the sub tank.
So If i understood this correctly... Fuel flows steady on the OUT line of the filter, but not at injector?
This has the injector pump symptoms. Do you have access to a code reader like Scangauge or something? If not I'd head to super cheap, they charge a small fee to plug their device in and read for any codes. I'd start here, and could give you a heads up as to where it's gone pear shaped.

Yeah mate flow out the filter, but not injector, I've read that i can pressurize the fuel tank to try and push fuel out the injector (is this correct) and also read there's a bleed valve on the Injector pump itself that i can check?

One of my mates has a diagnostic tester for his turbo nissan pulsar would that work?

Thanks for the help guys

Sir Roofy
22nd December 2014, 05:46 PM
when was the last time the fuel filter was changed might be full of crap
while the outlet runs free its only going over the top not through the filter
try this first

Danjo
22nd December 2014, 06:14 PM
when was the last time the fuel filter was changed might be full of crap
while the outlet runs free its only going over the top not through the filter
try this first

Thanks Roofy, i'll try that it only happened on sat so i'm getting it towed to my old man's place today and i'll start there.

One other thing, after priming the fuel filter and it goin hard i'd crank the engine (it wouldn't start of course) and then i had to prime the fuel filter again. any ideas on where the fuel could go?

Sir Roofy
22nd December 2014, 06:19 PM
thanks roofy, i'll try that it only happened on sat so i'm getting it towed to my old man's place today and i'll start there.

One other thing, after priming the fuel filter and it goin hard i'd crank the engine (it wouldn't start of course) and then i had to prime the fuel filter again. Any ideas on where the fuel could go?


have checked the fuel line there maybe a fuel leak sounds like air in the line

Danjo
22nd December 2014, 06:28 PM
have checked the fuel line there maybe a fuel leak sounds like air in the line

i'll start looking for leaks tonight and we'll go with the fuel filter tomorrow, and i'll let you guys know i go.

Just to one of my earlier questions, can i pressurize my tank with compressed air and force fuel out my injectors or is it just to the bleed valve on the injector pump?

salmon3268
22nd December 2014, 06:39 PM
I had that problem with my first patrol which had that engine. It stalled and I thought nothing off it till it wouldn't start. The RACQ guy kept pumping the fuel filter while I was turning the engine over. It turned out that the engine blew. I am hoping that its not that for you mate

4bye4
22nd December 2014, 06:58 PM
One other thing, after priming the fuel filter and it goin hard i'd crank the engine (it wouldn't start of course) and then i had to prime the fuel filter again. any ideas on where the fuel could go?

Back down into the tank via the return line?
I recently had a similar issue (not with a Nissan) and it turned out to be electrical. The engine management system wasn't talking to the electronic injection properly. Any way of checking for codes? See the post from Hodge above about Supercheap.

Yendor
22nd December 2014, 07:09 PM
With the ignition on does the check engine light (MIL) and glow plug warning lights in the dash come on?

Does the vehicle have a chip fitted? Make sure the electrical connector at the IP is clean and fastened correctly.

Danjo
23rd December 2014, 03:23 AM
I had that problem with my first patrol which had that engine. It stalled and I thought nothing off it till it wouldn't start. The RACQ guy kept pumping the fuel filter while I was turning the engine over. It turned out that the engine blew. I am hoping that its not that for you mate

Just a couple of questions, was yours blowing any smoke? did you try to run yours with start ya bastard, as mine ran on it but s*** house, and were there any other symptoms to yours?

Danjo
23rd December 2014, 03:29 AM
Back down into the tank via the return line?
I recently had a similar issue (not with a Nissan) and it turned out to be electrical. The engine management system wasn't talking to the electronic injection properly. Any way of checking for codes? See the post from Hodge above about Supercheap.

Yeah my brother said when he opened the return line, he had fuel, that was when priming with the hand pump though. would there be a difference between that and cranking the engine

Hodge
23rd December 2014, 09:20 AM
Thanks Roofy, i'll try that it only happened on sat so i'm getting it towed to my old man's place today and i'll start there.

One other thing, after priming the fuel filter and it goin hard i'd crank the engine (it wouldn't start of course) and then i had to prime the fuel filter again. any ideas on where the fuel could go?

The unused fuel would be returned to the tank I would think.


Yeah my brother said when he opened the return line, he had fuel, that was when priming with the hand pump though. would there be a difference between that and cranking the engine

The difference is, when you use the hand primer, it sucks fuel from the tank and it comes out fine... Trouble is, you have the injector pump between the primer and the engine/injectors. The pump is your middle man and from the sounds of things that isn't working for you for some reason. Cranking the engine won't do jack unless you have diesel pumped by the injector pump to the injectors...
I'd really be interested to see what / if any codes are on your system.

Yendor
23rd December 2014, 10:12 AM
Does the red security light on top of the dash go out when you are trying to start the vehicle?

Danjo
23rd December 2014, 01:57 PM
Does the red security light on top of the dash go out when you are trying to start the vehicle?

I fault tested and its the N.A.T.S i'm getting 1401 and 1405, so i'm looking into that now

Danjo
23rd December 2014, 01:59 PM
Does the red security light on top of the dash go out when you are trying to start the vehicle?

I keep looking for this red light at the top R/H corner of the dash and its just not there. Maybe the bulb blew, i'm not sure. I've only owned it a couple of weeks......................wait i went looking and found it under the dash mat

Danjo
23rd December 2014, 02:01 PM
The unused fuel would be returned to the tank I would think.



The difference is, when you use the hand primer, it sucks fuel from the tank and it comes out fine... Trouble is, you have the injector pump between the primer and the engine/injectors. The pump is your middle man and from the sounds of things that isn't working for you for some reason. Cranking the engine won't do jack unless you have diesel pumped by the injector pump to the injectors...
I'd really be interested to see what / if any codes are on your system.

N.A.T.S 1401 and 1405

Danjo
23rd December 2014, 02:07 PM
With the ignition on does the check engine light (MIL) and glow plug warning lights in the dash come on?

Does the vehicle have a chip fitted? Make sure the electrical connector at the IP is clean and fastened correctly.

Not sure on the chip, but yeah all lights on the dash come on, its fault code has come up with N.A.T.S so i'll chase that first

Hodge
23rd December 2014, 02:21 PM
N.A.T.S 1401 and 1405


Not sure on the chip, but yeah all lights on the dash come on, its fault code has come up with N.A.T.S so i'll chase that first

Yendor is your man here. He knows these things inside out then. I am glad and I hope it is only NATS stopping your engine from starting, as that is much much cheaper than the injector pump.

Danjo
23rd December 2014, 02:50 PM
Yendor is your man here. He knows these things inside out then. I am glad and I hope it is only NATS stopping your engine from starting, as that is much much cheaper than the injector pump.

Thanks mate. I'm new to this do I just ask him about it

Danjo
23rd December 2014, 03:02 PM
Does the red security light on top of the dash go out when you are trying to start the vehicle?

Nah mate she doesn't :( and the light was hiding under the dash mat. I didn't even know it was there

Yendor
23rd December 2014, 04:19 PM
If the red security light is still flashing when the engine is cranking NATS hasn't been deactivated and the vehicle will not start.

The main thing that goes wrong with NATS in the ZD30 is the IMMU (unit around the key barrel that reads the key).

It is also possible to have a faulty key. Do you have a second key? Have you tried starting the vehicle with it?

I have been told that some locksmith can check a key to make sure it is sending a signal. Not sure if this is correct as I haven't asked any or if they can check if the signal is correct.

There is a reset procedure in the owner hand book incase the key signal received interference from something. I don't thing this will work for you but it's still worth trying.

Danjo
23rd December 2014, 04:42 PM
If the red security light is still flashing when the engine is cranking NATS hasn't been deactivated and the vehicle will not start.

The main thing that goes wrong with NATS in the ZD30 is the IMMU (unit around the key barrel that reads the key).

It is also possible to have a faulty key. Do you have a second key? Have you tried starting the vehicle with it?

I have been told that some locksmith can check a key to make sure it is sending a signal. Not sure if this is correct as I haven't asked any or if they can check if the signal is correct.

There is a reset procedure in the owner hand book incase the key signal received interference from something. I don't thing this will work for you but it's still worth trying.

The security stays on the whole time, it doesn't flash at all, and it stays on when cranking,

I tried the 2nd key as well and no good

and do you know where i can get a Moaners Manual as i bought it 2nd hand from a dealership and it didn't have one

4bye4
23rd December 2014, 05:11 PM
This might have been done already. Have you disconnected the battery and left it for a couple of hours to reset everything. I'm grasping at straws here so someone may want to correct me if that not the way to go.

Danjo
23rd December 2014, 06:10 PM
This might have been done already. Have you disconnected the battery and left it for a couple of hours to reset everything. I'm grasping at straws here so someone may want to correct me if that not the way to go.

I reset the ecu via pins 1 and 8 at the plug in the fuse box and still has the fault codes and security light still stays on

Yendor
23rd December 2014, 06:39 PM
Try this.......

Danjo
24th December 2014, 03:04 PM
Can anyone tell me what fault codes 1401 and 1405 mean? i get for 1401 EGR temp sensor/High EGR input and 1405 is DPFE sensor hose blocked or unplugged

Danjo
24th December 2014, 03:05 PM
This might have been done already. Have you disconnected the battery and left it for a couple of hours to reset everything. I'm grasping at straws here so someone may want to correct me if that not the way to go.

I left it over night and still no good

Yendor
25th December 2014, 08:55 AM
I'll take it that the reset procedure I posted didn't work.

It's highly unlikely that both keys failed. If it was my vehicle I would try another IMMU.

You can't bypass NATS in the ZD30 like the NATS in the TD42. The ZD30 has an engine computer, NATS communicates with the engine computer telling it if it's OK to start.

The TD42 NATS is basically an added on (like an aftermarket alarm) that can be removed.

Danjo
25th December 2014, 03:37 PM
Try this.......

Thanks Yendor, I tried the key reset, and still no good, I'm thinking I might have to go the full extent and smash the Csolu on the IP and hard wire the pump. Has anyone done this to a zd30

Yendor
25th December 2014, 08:18 PM
Thanks Yendor, I tried the key reset, and still no good, I'm thinking I might have to go the full extent and smash the Csolu on the IP and hard wire the pump. Has anyone done this to a zd30

You can't do that on the ZD30 it doesn't have that setup on the IP.

It's only on the TD42. Refer my previous post.

Danjo
26th December 2014, 03:03 PM
Update...The spare key has a new battery now and has fixed the NATS issues, also why this was going, on removed all sensors on driver side of engine, cleaned and plugged back in apart from the egr sensor. Ran diagnostic and now have code 0505.... having a beer and then go and put it back together.... just a question for anyone reading. The MIL when I bridged the OMBII flashed 1401 and 1405 suggesting NATS issues. When I look those codes up it says EGR temp sensor incorrect input for 1401 and 1405 refers to a DPFE hose blocked or unplugged. Does anyone know what that'd have to do with NATS? Or does any have different suggestions for those codes

Danjo
26th December 2014, 03:06 PM
And thanks to everyone for the help.... Big shout for yendor thanks mate really appreciated having someone to help

Danjo
26th December 2014, 04:42 PM
Update..... still won't start and worse news. 0706 fault code (IP spill valve) what do I do now :(

Yendor
26th December 2014, 04:55 PM
You might still have some air in the fuel system, try bleeding it again.

Make sure all the fuel hose connections you have undone are tight and secure, it's possible you could be sucking in air through one of these.

Yendor
26th December 2014, 05:16 PM
Also make sure you have reconnected the plug on the IP correctly and no pins were damaged in the plug.

Danjo
26th December 2014, 10:50 PM
You might still have some air in the fuel system, try bleeding it again.

Make sure all the fuel hose connections you have undone are tight and secure, it's possible you could be sucking in air through one of these.

I'll get the aircompressor out tomorrow and pressurize the tank to force any air out. I'll also check the IP connections in the morning

dkpat
25th January 2015, 01:13 AM
Hi Danjo,
Have you fixed your problem?
I am having a similar problem with my patrol. It won't start and I am having fault codes 0703, 0704, 0706, 0905.

jempot
23rd April 2016, 09:40 PM
Did you sort this? It would a great contribution to the forum to post your outcome. And I've got a mate with exact same symptoms.

chrismawn
8th July 2016, 01:14 PM
Just had mine do the same thing..

Mechanic did following:
got error codes 76 - Fuel quantity solenoid valve signal improbable. 73 - pump communications line open circuit/short circuit.
Carried out a pump PSG scan. no pump codes were found.
Fuel filter replaced as slightly dirty.
Checked fuel tank and found black oil contamination throughout the main rear tank.

So mechanic advises to remove and clean the tanks then fit a new pump.

Looking at over $6k all up

Not sure I want to plow another $6k into a 2000 patrol..

togenshi
8th July 2016, 01:33 PM
There should be enough dead ZD30Di around the place to pick one a fuel pump second hand?

BigRAWesty
8th July 2016, 01:34 PM
Just had mine do the same thing..

Mechanic did following:
got error codes 76 - Fuel quantity solenoid valve signal improbable. 73 - pump communications line open circuit/short circuit.
Carried out a pump PSG scan. no pump codes were found.
Fuel filter replaced as slightly dirty.
Checked fuel tank and found black oil contamination throughout the main rear tank.

So mechanic advises to remove and clean the tanks then fit a new pump.

Looking at over $6k all up

Not sure I want to plow another $6k into a 2000 patrol..
Just read it on face book..
$250 to plug his computer in...
Crazy

NinjaJason
11th July 2016, 05:04 PM
I had the same problem in Alice Springs.
Could bet my left testicle it is the injector pump.

The sub tank pump is a transfer pump only, not related. It will transfer fuel when you start the car but only for a few seconds.

mudski
11th July 2016, 06:36 PM
When my old ZD died it was the pump that went. Error code 0703. In a nut shell the circuit board on the pump was fried.
Download this PDF on the ZD30 Reference document.
https://tribalchicken.com.au/files/Patrol/ZD30/ZD30%20Y61%20Reference%20Document%20-%20BW.pdf
I think its from page 27 for all the codes.

graeme61
29th September 2016, 06:55 PM
Hey Guys n Gals,

Well I been having the odd issue where powers dies when I press accelerator pedal but when I double tap it comes good, had codes read other day and it came up as Accelerator Module, had a major service done & left battery discon for a hour or so and all was running well until today... no rhyme or regularity to the issues so far.

Went to a job out of town and got 5ks out did a uey and went to take off, power was good then just died, and engine stalled, hasn't started since, cranks OK fuel filter is priming up hard after 1 or 2 pumps but after cranking goes soft again, no evidence of fuel leaks and all fuses are good..
Will get under it over the weekend see if the fuel lines are all good also check all wiring as the issue only started after I hit a small roo the other week, no damage aside from original plastic bash plate of sorts...

Any other suggestions aside from one previously mentioned would be appreciated, I will be going through the previously mentioned tips over the next few days prior to sending it into the shop.

Anyone know of a shop in the Lower South East SA (Mt Gambier) area rebuild fuel pumps etc...

Cheers Lads n LAdettes hope ya footy team gets up which ever ya follow.

graeme61
30th September 2016, 05:49 PM
Update on the dreaded cranky but no go....

Had the beast towed to the shop this arvo and yep codes for pump etc.. dead fuel pump quoting $4500 replaced with rebuilt unit from Adelaide.... not the news I wanted to hear but it was expected, lets just hope that's all that's up with it.

Take it easy you lot

mudski
30th September 2016, 06:42 PM
Yeah thats what happened to mine last year. Or similar. In the end the pump was dead. I wasnt prepared to spend that kind of coin on a ZD30 so i spent more and did the td conversion.
Lucky though. As after the car was finished, the head was removed off the ZD and found that number 4 piston was cracked. So yeah, i could have spent 5k on a motor that had the pin half hanging out of the grenade...

Sent from my GT-N7105T using Tapatalk

graeme61
30th September 2016, 10:04 PM
What did the TD conversion end costing ya in the end mudski