show us your remote winch solenoid location

[BigRAWesty]

I'm trying to work out where under my bonnet I can run my winch solenoid.
I'm thinking up behind main battery beside the break booster but dam it's tight.

So please share your install.
Cheers

[BillsGU]

I have a smart bar and there is heaps of room behind the bar. As mine is a wireless remote there is no problem with access. I can get under there and plug in the cable control if I have to (eg flat batteries on the remote). I isolate my winch with a switch at the battery when it is not in use.

[BigRAWesty]

Yea I have lots of room to on the bar but I'd much prefer it up under the for weather crap protection..

[jff45]

Kallen, I did a DIY thread with pics of my GU install if that helps at all..

[Agronaught]

Mine is on the bar with a relay on the ground wire. It's enough to disable the winch without cramming the relay into the engine bay.

[Drewboyaus]

Mate, I have a Thompson solenoid on the bar in the control box but have wired to so it can be isolated from inside the cab and I also wired in winch controls to the cab. You can still use the remote if outside the vehicle if needed but now I just send the "winch bitch" to run out the line and don't need to get my boots muddy...
LOL.
I'll take a few pics when I get out of here.

Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner

[Bacho86]

Yea I have lots of room to on the bar but I'd much prefer it up under the for weather crap protection..

Keen to see how you go with this - I ended up mouting my above the winch on a bracket becuase I couldn't find a nice spot that was easy to get to and wouldn't get in the way of future mods (sorry I know this doesn't help you)

52469

[BigRAWesty]

Ok some confusion here.
My plan is to mount the controller box under the bonnet and run cable from box to winch.
I do plan on putting a switch in the cabin for isolation.

[BillsGU]

Ok some confusion here.
My plan is to mount the controller box under the bonnet and run cable from box to winch.
I do plan on putting a switch in the cabin for isolation.

I looked under the bonnet for a location and there is not a lot of room. Add to that heat. Not the best environment for a control box. You may have miss understood me - mine is not on top of the bull bar - it's behind it. No one can see it unless they get down under the Patrol and look behind the bar.

[threedogs]

Having a low mount I think mine is mounted up under the top plate of the bullbar.

Like Drewboys idea so looking forward to some pics

[Drewboyaus]

Remember Westy, you'll get decent voltage drop between solenoid and winch if you're mounting it under the hood and from experience there are time when you need to wring every last bit of performance from that winch. You will need to upgrade the cables if you do this.
Seriously, mount it on the bar mate. I considered doing the whole under bonnet thing and just couldn't be arsed. I don't think there is a huge advantage in doing it that way.
But that's just my opinion

Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner

[MudRunnerTD]

What Solenoid are you running Kallen? If it is a Solid State then strip it out of the control box and mount it wherever you like. I had mine mounted to the inner guard under the Washer bottle and it worked fine there. They are sealed and fully water proof so dont worry about it getting wet or dirty.

Voltage Drop is a problem so as close as possible. My Solenoid for the GU is mounted behind the bar as already stated above and i have mounted the hand controller plug sticking out he grill. i have an isolation switch under the bonnet which cuts power to the switching side of the solenoid via a relay.

If your trying to mount a Warn control box with the 4 solenoids then bin it. buy a Solid State and be done with it.

[jff45]

There should be no increased voltage drop caused simply by having the solenoid closer to the battery. If the cable lengths are the same, the current will be identical regardless of where the solenoid is placed in the circuit.

[megatexture]

Mines mounted inside the bullbar and is a warn style with 4 solenoid and has been under water countless times with no issue to date(over 5 yrs).... Touch wood lol

[MudRunnerTD]

Mines mounted inside the bullbar and is a warn style with 4 solenoid and has been under water countless times with no issue to date(over 5 yrs).... Touch wood lol

Touch Wood. They are a Dog of a thing for Sh1tting themselves just when you need them most.

[megatexture]

Shut it lol your getting me paranoid lol

[Pokey]

Mine was mounted to the winch until recently I went to use it and found it was full of gunk and stuffed so relocated the new one to the engine bay. 52487

[04OFF]

There should be no increased voltage drop caused simply by having the solenoid closer to the battery. If the cable lengths are the same, the current will be identical regardless of where the solenoid is placed in the circuit.

Exactly my thoughts.


Mine is in the exact same spot as Pokey has his ^, the other good thing about remote mounting the solenoid, is that you remove any cables with permanent 12V power going right to the very front of your car, in a accident situation, I didn't like the idea of a "unfused" heavy cable connected directly to the battery surrounded by metal.

[04OFF]

Shut it lol your getting me paranoid lol

Don't worry Troy, you've actually got to "go" 4wdriving to get stuck and need a winch (bwahahahah !)

[lhurley]

Don't worry Troy, you've actually got to "go" 4wdriving to get stuck and need a winch (bwahahahah !)

Not true. Ive seen people stuck in all sorts of ridiculous situations. Mostly gutters

[04OFF]

Not true. Ive seen people stuck in all sorts of ridiculous situations. Mostly gutters


yeh, my mind is often stuck in the gutter :D

[BigRAWesty]

Daz I've got the runva 11xp setup and unit is identical to bachos.
Unsure if it's solid state or not.

In regards to voltage drop in my eyes it will happen.
Reading the specs of the winch and at stall you could be seeing 500A... And that won't go well over a few meters.
But in saying that it's either going to happen battery to solenoid or solenoid to winch.
I've already had a chat to mathew and he agrees an upgrade to 26mm would be ideal to compensate that drop.

So yea. In trying to fit that big ass hunk of crap under the hood.
Also it has the wireless option to so the module for that takes a bit of room.

[Bigcol]

I have mine mounted under the Radiator - on that pipe cross member.....
batt 1 to controller to winch
have the plug in my front bar
and the remote switch and line in / out on the dash.......

trying to see if I have pic's of it somewhere......

[Winnie]

That winch should come with 25mm standard! Something wrong if it doesn't. I've upgraded my cables to 35mm welding flex

[BigRAWesty]

That winch should come with 25mm standard! Something wrong if it doesn't. I've upgraded my cables to 35mm welding flex

Yea it does. But was just making sure that the size could handle the load.
I'll only need 3m (2x1.5m) of new cable as the supplied power cable will do winch to solenoid and the old solenoid to winch will go to the battery side.
The negative is long enough supplied to reach back to the battery, all though they suggest earthing it threw the chassis.

[jff45]

My Ridge Ryder came with 35mm (2 gauge) cable and I changed it all to 50mm (0 gauge) and it drops to 11.5v even with high idle.

[Ben-e-boy]

That winch should come with 25mm standard! Something wrong if it doesn't. I've upgraded my cables to 35mm welding flex

I upped mine to 70mm2. You even work in an electrical suppliers you get it cheaper than I do., if you are going to up grade it.. upgrade the shite out of it :D

[Pokey]

Same as mine Jff45. I upgraded the cable also. Only the battery to solenoid to change now. I'm hard wiring the wireless remote receiver to the solenoid next and will fill it with resin. I have a two way momentary switch beside the gear selector and an isolator under the steering wheel in case the momentary switch gets bumped. Also the 4 pin xlr chassis mount socket is mounted in cab. So at any time there are three ways to operate my winch. No way would I ever mount a solenoid on the bar or winch again. The corrosion and shit in it buggered it fairly quickly. If it does get wet in the engine bay it will dry quickly from engine heat.

[jff45]

In regards to voltage drop in my eyes it will happen.
Reading the specs of the winch and at stall you could be seeing 500A... And that won't go well over a few meters.
But in saying that it's either going to happen battery to solenoid or solenoid to winch.
I've already had a chat to mathew and he agrees an upgrade to 26mm would be ideal to compensate that drop.

Runva 11XP specs shows cables are already 32mm2

[BigRAWesty]

Runva 11XP specs shows cables are already 32mm2

Well there ya go. Should be heaps.
Scrap the 26, I'll go 32

[megatexture]

Don't worry Troy, you've actually got to "go" 4wdriving to get stuck and need a winch (bwahahahah !)

It's getting that way! :animierte-smilies-f

[cgm]

Touch Wood. They are a Dog of a thing for Sh1tting themselves just when you need them most.

Yeah I've done three relays over about 5 years, yet one of my mates has never done one in probably 17 years he's had the winch. Mucking around with a hammer or screwdriver to "convince" it is not good when you really need it. It's something I should swap out on my current truck. Hmmm, another suggestion for Christmas maybe? :smiley_thumbs_up:

Is there any particular brand that we should be looking for in the solid state replacement?

[MudRunnerTD]

Yeah I've done three relays over about 5 years, yet one of my mates has never done one in probably 17 years he's had the winch. Mucking around with a hammer or screwdriver to "convince" it is not good when you really need it. It's something I should swap out on my current truck. Hmmm, another suggestion for Christmas maybe? :smiley_thumbs_up:

Is there any particular brand that we should be looking for in the solid state replacement?

Allbright is the best on the market IMO. Itis the Gigglepin brand and is what I have just changed too. A little more expensive but will work when you need it too.

I have also just swapped to 70mm/sq for everything.

I am mounting my solenoid on the end of the motor and you can buy longer motor bolts to allow for it to be mounted there.

[MudRunnerTD]

Kallen, open up the control box and I bet you will find a Solid State Slenoid inside, the ox is just packaging, feel free to strip it out if it will make mounting easier.

[Winnie]

I upped mine to 70mm2. You even work in an electrical suppliers you get it cheaper than I do., if you are going to up grade it.. upgrade the shite out of it :D

If I was doing a high mount I would go bigger for sure, 35mm^2 is plenty for my application

[BigRAWesty]

Kallen, open up the control box and I bet you will find a Solid State Slenoid inside, the ox is just packaging, feel free to strip it out if it will make mounting easier.

After seeing the few above I think I will strip it down. No need for wasted space when it's at a premium

[BigRAWesty]

MR.. Here is the guts. Not the smallest unit around. But will be a much easier install

[BigRAWesty]

Mine was mounted to the winch until recently I went to use it and found it was full of gunk and stuffed so relocated the new one to the engine bay. <img src="http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=52487"/>

Well mate thanks for the inspiration.
I found the perfect location.


52528



52529

Currently gluing the wireless setup under the same cover and I'll run it in a protective tube out beside the top bolt.
So now I have to finish bar, get cables made and wire it up.

I'm in to minds though if I'll need terminal covers. I think I will be unsure if I'll find them locally.

[megatexture]

Brush it up with some liquid tape just do a few coats even if its just on the pos

[BigRAWesty]

Brush it up with some liquid tape just do a few coats even if its just on the pos

Yea good thinking. What's that stuff like to get off though.

[MudRunnerTD]

Yea good thinking. What's that stuff like to get off though.

Terrible! assume once on its on. I used it and expected to just clean up the edges with a razer blade! Yeah good luck with that!

[BigRAWesty]

Ok. So back to lug / terminal covers lol

[MudRunnerTD]

Ok. So back to lug / terminal covers lol

It comes with a crappy lid mounted brush which is less than average, just do a neat job and don't alow for cleanup as I had and it's great stuff mate. I just did it thinking I could clean up the edges but couldn't.

Good stuff for what it is

Jump on Gigglepin web site and they sell the lug boots for $5 each I think or less

[GQ TANK]

I have my solenoid setting next to the battery as per one of the earlier posts. My next project is to pull it out of its box and remote mount the controller. _its a pain openong the bonnet to plug the contrller in.

[BigRAWesty]

How many of you run isolators inline to the winch?

[MudRunnerTD]

How many of you run isolators inline to the winch?

I run an isolator to the switching side of the Solenoid mate, easy to keep it dead that way as its low current.

With my new setup though I am fitting a 600amp constant rate kill switch on the back of the centre console to isolate the power to the whole 24v system should everything go to poo.

[mjr350]

I have mine sitting up in the corner next to the booster. Its tight but there's a few bolt holes than allow for a bracket to be made up. A nutsert kit is your best friend in these situations. I didn't own one at the time when I installed the winch but I sure as hell do now. Also ran the plug down to behind the bonnet release lever in that little recess.
52560
52561

[jff45]

You can even wire in a parallel rocker switch as an option/backup to the hand controller.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Winch%20install/IMG_0600_zps4702d0ac.jpg

[BigRAWesty]

You can even wire in a parallel rocker switch as an option/backup to the hand controller.



Yea this is my plan as well and an isolator switch. But as always time and funds are the key

[jff45]

Yea this is my plan as well and an isolator switch. But as always time and funds are the key

The 2 small rocker switches isolate the controls. I have a nice bright LED that tells me if I left them on..

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Winch%20install/IMG_0595_zpse7915744.jpg

[jff45]

Just to briefly touch on wire sizes again, here's a pic showing 35mm2 compared to 50mm2.
I upgraded all my winch cabling to 50mm2 and still drop 2 volts

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Winch%20install/IMG_1582_zpsd8b9730a.jpg

[BigRAWesty]

Just to briefly touch on wire sizes again, here's a pic showing 35mm2 compared to 50mm2.
I upgraded all my winch cabling to 50mm2 and still drop 2 volts



What size winch, how long and what sort current??

[MudRunnerTD]

Here are the Terminal Boots Kallen. You might get something like this from Jaycar too.

http://smithiengineering.com.au-warn-electrical-terminal-boot (http://smithiengineering.com.au/index.php/winch-maintenance/warn-electrical-terminal-boot-part-2090.html)

These will fit a 35/ 70mm2 wire and just need a bit of hot water to make them pliable.

I have purchased a bulk of these for each of the terminals on the winch and alternator.

[jff45]

What size winch, how long and what sort current??

I have the Ridge Ryder 12000 from Supercheap. I have nothing to measure that kind of current but these winches are typically rated around the 450 - 500 amps when pulling hard with a few layers of rope still on the drum.

I did a thread in DIY showing how I installed it all.

[jff45]

I'd be interested to know what others are seeing on their voltmeters while winching..

[jff45]

I'd be interested to know what others are seeing on their voltmeters while winching..

Just thought I'd bump this because I think the info could be interesting for those doing their own winch installs.

If you have a voltmetre in the cabin, what do you see in terms of voltage drop when winching and under what conditions, light pull, heavy, etc..

[BigRAWesty]

Would be interesting for sure.
But are you reading the 2v drop at the battery while winching?
Or is that the difference between battery and winch terminals?

[jff45]

Would be interesting for sure.
But are you reading the 2v drop at the battery while winching?
Or is that the difference between battery and winch terminals?

I'm reading it directly from my Ecutalk display. That's the voltage that the ECU sees. Had 13.5v on high idle, it dropped immediately to 11.5v every time I hit the controller button.
I was attached to a tree with brakes locked and I was re tensioning the dyneema rope.
Battery is a new Century.

[BigRAWesty]

I'm reading it directly from my Ecutalk display. That's the voltage that the ECU sees. Had 13.5v on high idle, it dropped immediately to 11.5v every time I hit the controller button.
I was attached to a tree with brakes locked and I was re tensioning the dyneema rope.
Battery is a new Century.

Yep. So yea that's the load drop when battery is under load.
Voltage drop is the difference between source and motor from the cable.

[MudRunnerTD]

I'm reading it directly from my Ecutalk display. That's the voltage that the ECU sees. Had 13.5v on high idle, it dropped immediately to 11.5v every time I hit the controller button.
I was attached to a tree with brakes locked and I was re tensioning the dyneema rope.
Battery is a new Century.

Yes I agree with Kallen, that is Load Cell drop rather than voltage drop. Voltage drop is the difference between the source and the load, rather than the source because of the load. If you had 2 guages and one at the battery and one at the winch voltage drop would be the difference between them.

[jff45]

Yep. So yea that's the load drop when battery is under load.
Voltage drop is the difference between source and motor from the cable.

Technically, yes but battery voltage that drops when under a load, such as cranking the engine, is still very commonly referred to as 'voltage drop'.
I have a drop in measured battery voltage of 2v when using my winch.

[BigRAWesty]

Technically, yes but battery voltage that drops when under a load, such as cranking the engine, is still very commonly referred to as 'voltage drop'.
I have a drop in measured battery voltage of 2v when using my winch.

I think that would be very common across the board, but very open to the style and quality of your battery and alternator..

[mjr350]

Speaking of voltage drop when starting, is there a way to stop the headunit from restarting when i crank the motor without hooking to the aux battery?

[BigRAWesty]

Is it wired direct to battery or via something else.

[BillsGU]

All batteries have an "internal" resistance. The value of this resistance depends on the level of charge and the health of the battery, but is usually very small (fractions of an ohm). This internal resistance can be thought of as a series resistance when thinking about a vehicle wiring diagram. Like any resistance, the voltage dropped over it is proportional to the current passing through it (V=IxR), and the more current that is drawn from the battery the more voltage will be dropped over the series internal resistance. With this in mind, the thickness of your battery cable will not change the internal resistance of the battery. Sure, you need to have a decent sized battery to winch cable in order to minimise the voltage drop over the cable, but when you start to operate the winch and draw lots of current you will always get a voltage drop due to the internal resistance of the battery.

[mjr350]

Is it wired direct to battery or via something else.

Its currently hooked up to the standard headunit wiring. Its a dvd headunit so maybe it needs more power to run.

[BigRAWesty]

Its currently hooked up to the standard headunit wiring. Its a dvd headunit so maybe it needs more power to run.

What year? I know my gq is wired directly to battery and the signal wire is to the accessories. So only come on when key is on.
But my 02 falconer turns the ac and radio off when cranking.