jff45
9th November 2014, 10:19 AM
I know this will have limited interest but I noticed that the RE4R03A rebuild threads don't go into much detail on how to overhaul the valve body.
This one happens to be a Nomad valve body that I bought used from a trans that had suffered an oil pump mishap so it had to be completely dismantled to make sure it was spotless.
First you need to print out the relevant pages of the FSM and preferably put them under plastic.
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/RE4R03A%20pics/IMG_1909_zpse275b2e1.jpg
I also have the pages for the full trans overhaul in there as well.
Prepare a nice clear workspace for yourself. I have this fairly big steel leg laminated table I got from the dump for $10. I used black plastic initially but it didn't like the ATF so I had to work directly on the table.
There are those who apparently like to do these kinds of jobs with bourbon on hand but I don't drink so diet Coke does the job for me :)
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/RE4R03A%20pics/IMG_1911_zps6d674580.jpg
It's really important when doing this kind of work, where parts need to go back in the correct order, to have some way of clearly and logically laying out those parts.
I simply cut a length of aluminium flashing (Bunnings) and used some stainless rods I had to form a corrugated sheet. It bends easily by hand and takes 5 minutes to make.
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/RE4R03A%20pics/IMG_1912_zps10fb36b6.jpg
Simply follow the FSM and you can't go wrong.
Wholesale Autos, who supply these valve bodies, make there own laser cut separator plate. Most shift kit makers (TransGo, Superior, etc) supply drill bits to modify the plate so this is obviously a more professional approach.
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/RE4R03A%20pics/IMG_1913_zps010820cd.jpg
The upper body has the majority of the valves so we start there.
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/RE4R03A%20pics/IMG_1927_zps5d3cda58.png
The pressure regulator (2nd from top) almost certainly has been modified judging by the red coloured spring. Most shift kits modify it as well.
5th from the top and 3rd from the bottom are machined parts that don't match the FSM. These are called Shuttle shift valves and originally they move against a spring with an end plug for the locking pin.
These have the pin slot machined in the ends so they are effectively locked solid which is the obvious reason they no longer have a spring either.
Here's a clearer pic of the parts..
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/RE4R03A%20pics/IMG_1918_zps65c59c7c.jpg
Then we do the lower body. Same system, line the bits up in the corrugations in the order and sequence in which they're removed.
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/RE4R03A%20pics/IMG_1941_zps3bf48f2d.jpg
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/RE4R03A%20pics/IMG_1943_zps5c830306.jpg
I'll add the correct dimensions for the missing accumulator spring once I finally have it.
This one happens to be a Nomad valve body that I bought used from a trans that had suffered an oil pump mishap so it had to be completely dismantled to make sure it was spotless.
First you need to print out the relevant pages of the FSM and preferably put them under plastic.
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/RE4R03A%20pics/IMG_1909_zpse275b2e1.jpg
I also have the pages for the full trans overhaul in there as well.
Prepare a nice clear workspace for yourself. I have this fairly big steel leg laminated table I got from the dump for $10. I used black plastic initially but it didn't like the ATF so I had to work directly on the table.
There are those who apparently like to do these kinds of jobs with bourbon on hand but I don't drink so diet Coke does the job for me :)
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/RE4R03A%20pics/IMG_1911_zps6d674580.jpg
It's really important when doing this kind of work, where parts need to go back in the correct order, to have some way of clearly and logically laying out those parts.
I simply cut a length of aluminium flashing (Bunnings) and used some stainless rods I had to form a corrugated sheet. It bends easily by hand and takes 5 minutes to make.
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/RE4R03A%20pics/IMG_1912_zps10fb36b6.jpg
Simply follow the FSM and you can't go wrong.
Wholesale Autos, who supply these valve bodies, make there own laser cut separator plate. Most shift kit makers (TransGo, Superior, etc) supply drill bits to modify the plate so this is obviously a more professional approach.
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/RE4R03A%20pics/IMG_1913_zps010820cd.jpg
The upper body has the majority of the valves so we start there.
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/RE4R03A%20pics/IMG_1927_zps5d3cda58.png
The pressure regulator (2nd from top) almost certainly has been modified judging by the red coloured spring. Most shift kits modify it as well.
5th from the top and 3rd from the bottom are machined parts that don't match the FSM. These are called Shuttle shift valves and originally they move against a spring with an end plug for the locking pin.
These have the pin slot machined in the ends so they are effectively locked solid which is the obvious reason they no longer have a spring either.
Here's a clearer pic of the parts..
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/RE4R03A%20pics/IMG_1918_zps65c59c7c.jpg
Then we do the lower body. Same system, line the bits up in the corrugations in the order and sequence in which they're removed.
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/RE4R03A%20pics/IMG_1941_zps3bf48f2d.jpg
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/RE4R03A%20pics/IMG_1943_zps5c830306.jpg
I'll add the correct dimensions for the missing accumulator spring once I finally have it.