Cheapest Aux Tank Setup GQ LWB rb30

[Throbbinhood]

Hey guys,

Picked up a 75L aux tank to suit my GQ for dirt cheap, just looking for the cheapest setup possible to get it in and working. Only looking to have it pump into the main tank. I'm not fussed with being able to fill them separately either. For what it's worth, it's an rb30 petrol.

Basically, my idea is to have two t-piece's cut into the main fill line from the filler to the main tank. The higher t piece will go to the aux tank. The lower t-piece will have a 1 way valve on it, and this will have a 12v pump connected to it. Idea being that as I fill the main tank, it will fill and once it reaches the higher t-piece (full open one), it will start filling the aux tank. Once I've run the main tank down, switch on the pump which will then pump through the 1-way lower t piece into the main tank. Make sense?

Also, I'll be using a t-piece to do the breathers to the main tank. I'm assuming that this should sort any issues with foaming/being unable to fill/transfer because of vacuum. Sound right?

Uploaded an image to hopefully help it make more sense, excuse the crappy mspaint skills.

49587

[AB]

My concern would be the flow rate into the aux tank when the main tank is full.

I reckon you'll get back pressure build up the line.

I know their expensive but the dual neck investment could save you a lot of frustration.

Interested to see if others have done the T piece and have feedback though?

[billyj]

get onto lra in lillydale, you want a proper dual filler assy, a t piece in the filler line doesnt work. the lra assembly gives you a proper dual neck filler with fittings on the neck fro breathers and for a transer line to be connected into the main tank

[BigRAWesty]

This is how most Toyota's are these days and how im doing mine.
You want you t as close to the main tank as possible but you don't want the feed to sub to flat.

The transfer pump can be fitted anywhere, not sure where I'll be fitting mine to just yet.
The cheapest by far is a simple t fill, a pickup from each tank with a 3 way ball valve to the pump. You have to manually change tanks but if your after cheap then that's it..
Leave the return to the main so you'll drain main, switch to sub, drain sub then switch back to main to finish of the returned fuel..
But the pump will work and it's what I'm doing now, the 6 port pollick valve is just a little to much at $170..

[liftlid]

I don't think you idea will work well as per advice already given above, don't do a switch over of the tank outlet as air can get in the lines, the simplest way is to pump into main tank, if you didn't get the filler neck when you got your tank, try buying a second standard filler from wrecker and mount both in a bit of plate
The size of the standard mount you pull out.

[BigRAWesty]

Dont think 2 fit in the gq hatches. You need the twin port under one cap

But also I have no issues with air in lines when I pull out the pick up from the tank and that's atleast 300mm of air in line

[BigRAWesty]

Double post

[Winnie]

Dont think 2 fit in the gq hatches. You need the twin port under one cap

But also I have no issues with air in lines when I pull out the pick up from the tank and that's atleast 300mm of air in line

Yes they do.

http://www.4wdaction.com.au/_phpBB/download/file.php?id=71606&t=1

[liftlid]

Dont think 2 fit in the gq hatches. You need the twin port under one cap

But also I have no issues with air in lines when I pull out the pick up from the tank and that's atleast 300mm of air in line

49588
This is mine
You also cannot let air in your main fuel line or the chug chug stops. Even a small crack in a diesel fuel line will suck air an stop it

[Throbbinhood]

This is how most Toyota's are these days and how im doing mine.
You want you t as close to the main tank as possible but you don't want the feed to sub to flat.

The transfer pump can be fitted anywhere, not sure where I'll be fitting mine to just yet.
The cheapest by far is a simple t fill, a pickup from each tank with a 3 way ball valve to the pump. You have to manually change tanks but if your after cheap then that's it..
Leave the return to the main so you'll drain main, switch to sub, drain sub then switch back to main to finish of the returned fuel..
But the pump will work and it's what I'm doing now, the 6 port pollick valve is just a little to much at $170..

Ah yes, this could work. My only idea for the 12v pumping to the main is so it could be done from incab. It would require 2 t-pieces in the filler line to be done though.

[Throbbinhood]

My concern would be the flow rate into the aux tank when the main tank is full.

I reckon you'll get back pressure build up the line.

I know their expensive but the dual neck investment could save you a lot of frustration.

Interested to see if others have done the T piece and have feedback though?

If I plumbed the breathers up from the aux to the main, would that negate the back pressure issue?


get onto lra in lillydale, you want a proper dual filler assy, a t piece in the filler line doesnt work. the lra assembly gives you a proper dual neck filler with fittings on the neck fro breathers and for a transer line to be connected into the main tank

Why doesn't the t-piece work?

[threedogs]

I think most use the dual filler neck for a reason. It works
With my Tojo it was just press a button for which ever tank you needed, however the OE fuel pumps of TOJO were replaced by
aviation ones at Brown Davis,

[BigRAWesty]

Yes they do.






<img src="http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=49588"/>
This is mine
You also cannot let air in your main fuel line or the chug chug stops. Even a small crack in a diesel fuel line will suck air an stop it

Well there ya go. Bloody tight though..
Ok, so yea wreckers for a second filler.
How much are second hand fillers going for??

I'll try jump under the Inlaws prado as I said before Toyota been running a T of main fill line for a while now.
The only down fall is you can fill sub unless main is full

[liftlid]

If I plumbed the breathers up from the aux to the main, would that negate the back pressure issue?



Why doesn't the t-piece work?

It's when the tank gets filled from the bowser it fills too fast,

the transfer pump line from the aux tank goes to the filler neck of the main filler pipe it has a bung welded in

[BigRAWesty]

So I've jumped under my mates prado 150 and geeze it's simple
They run a steel pipe, looks 1.25" and is is a simple T to main and slightly uphill before dipping down to sub.
Main has breather to filler neck,
And sub runs breather to main tank.
Simple. If your worried about flow I'd run 1.5" pipe or 1.75" depending on space..

First pic is the T joint. Flow is right to left
49666


This shows drop into sub
49667


This shows drop from main line into main tank
49668

[billyj]

a mate of mine has the t piece in his jackaroo and its a nightmare to get fuel into the aux, by the time the main is full and the fuel would flow to the aux the bowser flow is too fast and it will just keep backing up and clicking the bowser off unless you trickle feed it in, the dual filler works perfectly, the pic of the dual filler on the green/gold patrol is my vehicle has been fitted for about 4 years now with no issue

[gqphill]

Put a tank in my GQ recently, made my own filler buy welding a piece of 40mm tube onto side of fill pipe,forming a Y, just below opening so can put pump nozzle into it.I put a T piece in breather tube near the top and used a cheap electric fuel pump mounted on body above the tank to pump straight into a fitting welded to filler pipe.This works well, as your driving, and main tank gets to about quarter, hit the switch and it takes about 30 minutes to transfer about 65 litres,cheap and easy.

[BigRAWesty]

Put a tank in my GQ recently, made my own filler buy welding a piece of 40mm tube onto side of fill pipe,forming a Y, just below opening so can put pump nozzle into it.I put a T piece in breather tube near the top and used a cheap electric fuel pump mounted on body above the tank to pump straight into a fitting welded to filler pipe.This works well, as your driving, and main tank gets to about quarter, hit the switch and it takes about 30 minutes to transfer about 65 litres,cheap and easy.

I was also thinking of modding behind the fuel flap. Many have mentioned that the flap is missing from the bought dual heads and fuel spills out..

[Winnie]

I have not had fuel spill out of mine.

[billyj]

doesnt spill out of mine either, flap isnt nessasary anymore as they were originally there to prevent the larger nozzle on the leaded fuel pumps being put into unleaded vehicles and leaded fuel isnt avalible anymore.

[BigRAWesty]

Ok. Maybe something was changes but many did have.

[liftlid]

Your over thinking something that has been already done successfully for 20 years just copy what the aftermarket has already developed for a trouble free install and easy maintenance

[BigRAWesty]

Yea fair call. I do like to be different thou ;-)

[liftlid]

I like to be able to fix my car in remote places with the minimum of fuss

[BigRAWesty]

Yea. I try to keep it simple.
Like this pipe. 90% of it steel so little tube to perish

[Throbbinhood]

Found someone wanting to swap his dual filler for my single filler, so will just use that, and run a 12v pump to the main line to fill it from the aux.

I don't have my car on me at the moment, much work to remove the original filler?

[Winnie]

Found someone wanting to swap his dual filler for my single filler, so will just use that, and run a 12v pump to the main line to fill it from the aux.

I don't have my car on me at the moment, much work to remove the original filler?

5 minute job mate. You got yourself a good deal there!

[Throbbinhood]

Yeah, was pretty stoked!

Awesome! Hopefully just a few bolts and undoing the hose to the fuel tank.

[Throbbinhood]

Also, I've got a 3" HD lift in my patrol (GQ). I have standard panhards and arms, just the lift and castor correction bushes (which I'm happy with, it drives better than it did at standard height, no wobbles etc, so trying to avoid changing the suspension as much as possible). Will I need the bent upper control arm? And will I need to flip the tailshaft around (is this as easy as undoing the bolts, flipping it around keeping in mind that the weight stays on the same side for balance)?

It's a 75L LRA aux tank going into a 93 LWB GQ RB30 Wagon.

[BigRAWesty]

They recommend the bent upper.
But if you have a lwb the tail shaft should be fine, but you can flip it if you like

[Winnie]

I used the bent upper control arm, and also flipped the tail shaft (yes it's as easy as unbolt, flip, bolt up)
Silly not to do it while you are under there.

[Throbbinhood]

Awesome, picked up the dual filler neck. Does anyone have an installation manual for it, and one for the lra tank per chance?

[BigRAWesty]

Just search mate. All manuals are on here

[Throbbinhood]

Looks like I need to post some more!

[BigRAWesty]

Looks like I need to post some more!

Yea just introduce a few people mate.
Ab has done a write up of the install with which hoses go where.. That one is free to everyone

[Throbbinhood]

Yea just introduce a few people mate.
Ab has done a write up of the install with which hoses go where.. That one is free to everyone

Oh awesome! I'll have to trawl through Ab's posts and have a geez!

[Throbbinhood]

Did anyone have any issues with the length of the breather for the main tank? I'm about two inches short of reaching the barb on the dual filler.

[Winnie]

Did anyone have any issues with the length of the breather for the main tank? I'm about two inches short of reaching the barb on the dual filler.

I had that problem. I think AB's just reached though?
I just extended the hose because we did not have a long enough length left over.

[Throbbinhood]

Yeah I'll just get a joiner and an extra bit of hose, will be easier than replacing the hose all the way to the main tank haha

[Throbbinhood]

Hey guys, did a trial fit of the tank, tight squeeze so have a few questions.

Where the tank sits on the cross member near the gearbox, looks like I have to drill holes through the cross member for bolts to go through? Is this correct (and safe)? There are 3 factory holes, but nowhere near close to fitting the tank if I use them.

I've got a bent control arm, so will be doing that as well. And when flipping the tailshaft, that would put the skinny end of the shaft towards the front of the vehicle yes?

[billyj]

yes to both mate

[Throbbinhood]

Thanks billyj :)