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View Full Version : electronic window issues. may have found problem



BigRAWesty
19th September 2014, 05:20 PM
Well I've had a electronic window issue for some time now, 10 months.
Always thought it was possibly my fault with a farked wire somewhere.

Well I've just found a possibility for the cause. Well.. It's looking pretty positive...

Ian2011
19th September 2014, 05:28 PM
looks like it had a drink of muddy water

Cuppa
19th September 2014, 05:35 PM
Not much idea what I’m looking at, other than it being a PCB from somewhere in the Patrol ....... but it sure doesn’t look too healthy.

So GQ’s had such electronics then, I thought they may have been too old for such modern stuff. <Tongue in cheek> :D

NissanGQ4.2
19th September 2014, 06:54 PM
Its the drivers side power window amp module cuppa, controls the auto up and down feature

yeh it would be farked now, for some reason they don't like muddy water *L*

200 bucks for a new one from patrolapart

Clunk
19th September 2014, 06:56 PM
what he said ^^^^^^

BigRAWesty
19th September 2014, 07:27 PM
Its the drivers side power window amp module cuppa, controls the auto up and down feature

yeh it would be farked now, for some reason they don't like muddy water *L*

200 bucks for a new one from patrolapart

Yea. So I've found out.
And yea nearly fell over when they told me a price!!!! Fark!!!

Cuppa
19th September 2014, 09:49 PM
Ok .... the questions that’ve gotta be asked.

Where does module live in the vehicle ....... & more to the point how come it’s taken so long to find it! LOL. The window drama has been going on for what... 12 months plus now? Do you have a manual winder as well, or have you just been enjoying the breeze?

Clunk
19th September 2014, 11:39 PM
Ok .... the questions that’ve gotta be asked.

Where does module live in the vehicle ....... & more to the point how come it’s taken so long to find it! LOL. The window drama has been going on for what... 12 months plus now? Do you have a manual winder as well, or have you just been enjoying the breeze?

It lives in here with the switches

49464

mudnut
20th September 2014, 12:12 AM
Keep the old one, Kallen. It may only be a couple of components that are shot.

BigRAWesty
20th September 2014, 08:14 AM
Ok .... the questions that've gotta be asked.

Where does module live in the vehicle ....... & more to the point how come it's taken so long to find it! LOL. The window drama has been going on for what... 12 months plus now? Do you have a manual winder as well, or have you just been enjoying the breeze?

I've always had a suspicious feeling it was this module, but there a pita to pull apart.
While taking the door down yesterday I noticed rust water stains coming from it. So pulled it apart and yea.
No good..

BigRAWesty
20th September 2014, 08:16 AM
Keep the old one, Kallen. It may only be a couple of components that are shot.

From what I can see the main coil contact running along the board is stuffed..
There is some corrosion on it also but unsure of the extent.
I can clean it down, what woukd be best?

Stropp
20th September 2014, 01:24 PM
contact cleaner in a spray can from auto shop mate works wonders

mudnut
20th September 2014, 02:26 PM
It may come good with the cleaner, but moisture penetrates some components and any joints with dissimilar metals corrode. It may do good to clean the space between any circuits on the board, to make sure there is no tracking between them. Maybe redo any moisture affected the solder joints. Most of the components are cheap, but if the relays are stuffed, then that's where the big money is.

Clunk
20th September 2014, 02:32 PM
Hit it with a big hammer, that'll did it

BigRAWesty
20th September 2014, 04:30 PM
Ok. Will try source the farked part.. But have just noticed this..
Looks burnt..


49470

And what is this called??


49471

mudnut
20th September 2014, 05:41 PM
The first one looks like a choke, the second is a relay. I think the wreckers are the go. The moisture has done its worst, Kallen. Just out of curiosity, What part number is that chip? I have kept a few over the years, so I may have one in the shed.

mudnut
20th September 2014, 06:26 PM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UWG6nd7HeBc

This module looks vey similar to yours, Kallen. You may be able to source a cheaper one for parts, or it may just work.

The number on the pc board is ET1571. Hope that helps.

BigRAWesty
21st September 2014, 07:11 AM
Well I got creative yesterday arvo and fixed the coil..
Now this has me stumped.
I plugged it back in and both coils are working, but only on the drivers window. No windows are winding but the coils are working..
The rest of the board looks good, apart from that burnt wire, but if the coils are working does this mean it's ok??

BigRAWesty
21st September 2014, 07:20 AM
Also thanks for the vid MN.. They are the same unit. That'll help broaden the serch

gubigfish
21st September 2014, 12:30 PM
Interesting I'm gonna go have a look at mine. Does this control all the windows in the car?

mudnut
21st September 2014, 04:28 PM
Now that you have the relays clicking on and off, you need to check that there is a circuit made across the main contacts. Have you got a multimeter, Kallen?

NissanGQ4.2
21st September 2014, 05:58 PM
Interesting I'm gonna go have a look at mine. Does this control all the windows in the car?

No the amp module is only for the auto up and down feature on the drivers window and has no effect on any of the other windows.

gubigfish
21st September 2014, 07:11 PM
So the rest of the window controls is there a similar system for that?

BigRAWesty
21st September 2014, 08:06 PM
No the amp module is only for the auto up and down feature on the drivers window and has no effect on any of the other windows.

How come when one door is disconnected none work??
And the amp unit clicks in even when moving the master into the manual up down?
Im a bit lost lol. I have found a second hand one for $70 so I think I'll just try that..

NissanGQ4.2
21st September 2014, 08:11 PM
I would have to check on mine, but from my understanding of what I've read over the years was the amp had nothing 2 do with the other windows.

Will try and check mine 2morrow

Flex
21st September 2014, 10:03 PM
All the wiring for the electric windows goes through the drivers door, thats why when you un-plug the drivers door switch all windows stop working.

BigRAWesty
22nd September 2014, 10:52 AM
All the wiring for the electric windows goes through the drivers door, thats why when you un-plug the drivers door switch all windows stop working.

So this amp unit could be the reason why none of the windows work you think??
I've got a list of other things that could use the $100 so don't really wanted fork out for one and still be no better off..

mudnut
22nd September 2014, 12:34 PM
If the unit is only for an automatic function, can it be by-passed?

Flex
23rd September 2014, 08:58 AM
Looking at the wiring diagram the amp only controls the diver side door window only (for both manual and auto up). With the amp disconnected and the front driver side switch connected all other windows should work.

BigRAWesty
23rd September 2014, 10:25 AM
Well I can safety say that ain't happening lol.
No this is the weird thing coz I know they work.
After the high country trip they work. Yea I know, great timing.
I have got another suspicion though and that's the lock button.
Both times the failures have happened it's been using the lock button to stop the kids playing with them.
Might investigate this

BigRAWesty
23rd September 2014, 08:19 PM
Well my apologies..
All windows but drivers are working... I swear this wasn't the case the other day but will monitor. I'm still suspect of the lock button but it could have been pure coincidence that the amp unit failed at that time.
So now it's just a wait for the new amp unit.
I have done some research and it seems pretty much any nissan around the 1990-95 era ran these modules.
I have a mate who has a 180sx module so for $50 delivered its a but load cheaper than new..
I will prevail with this pita

pearcey
23rd September 2014, 08:30 PM
Kallen
I`ve had a problem with the drivers window on and off for some time then the other day I pulled module apart but all was ok so I pulled the switch apart and there was the problem, just dirty so a clean up and all is ok now

BigRAWesty
23rd September 2014, 09:54 PM
Kallen
I`ve had a problem with the drivers window on and off for some time then the other day I pulled module apart but all was ok so I pulled the switch apart and there was the problem, just dirty so a clean up and all is ok now

Yea have pulled the switches apart some time back and cleaned all the contacts.
Will wait till I get the amp unit and see how we go

BigRAWesty
13th October 2014, 06:05 AM
Looking at the wiring diagram the amp only controls the diver side door window only (for both manual and auto up). With the amp disconnected and the front driver side switch connected all other windows should work.

Flex, could yourself or another electrician look at the drawings and see if the drivers can bypass the amp?
Bought 1 and was a dud. Sent it back but in all honesty I don't care if it's not auto, I just want it working..

Flex
13th October 2014, 09:31 AM
Looking at the window diagram it doesn't look easy to remove the window amp. Can't even tell if the drivers side switch can handle the current of the electric motor (On the GU Patrol the drivers window switch is a low current type). What was wrong with the new one you bought?

BigRAWesty
13th October 2014, 09:44 AM
Dunno. Didn't work so sent it back under warranty..
So how are the rest wired. If they pypass the amp are they still triggering a relay somewhere?
I've removed the amp and all the other windows work from drivers door, it's just the drivers window which doesn't.

I'm guessing the amp woukd have 6 inputs and 2 outputs (auto up and down, manual up and down, power feed to the amp, then feed to motor)..
I'm thinking take the feed from the manual up and down to the motor.
But yea I'm unsure

Flex
13th October 2014, 11:18 AM
50326

This is the wiring diagram for the GQ electric windows. There is one relay that supplies power to all the window motors, however this relay is trigger by ignition. From the diagram it looks like the module has 8 wires?

BigRAWesty
13th October 2014, 11:57 AM
So could I find the power wire (blue or white) and connect to motor, then green to the blue or white traced wire?? Or would motor go to earth??

Yendor
13th October 2014, 02:06 PM
Make yourself a 3 pin bridging harness.

Disconnect the amp and connect the bridging harness in the Blue with a Black trace wire, White with a Blue trace wire (both of these should be at the same end of the connector) and a Black wire (opposite end of connector).

Carefully test operation. Be ready to disconnect the harness and turn ignition off if smoke starts to escape :D

Flex
16th October 2014, 03:18 PM
Power in is the white with black trace and black, power to the motor is the blue and green. Connecting these together will make the window go up and down i.e.
Blue -> white with black trace
Green -> Black
&
Blue -> Black
Green -> white with black trace

Yendor
21st October 2014, 06:13 PM
So........did it work?

BigRAWesty
21st October 2014, 07:56 PM
Lol to be honest mate I'm a bit hesitant.
I've farked enough already.
I might just grab another unit

billyj
21st October 2014, 08:56 PM
90% of the time when the drivers window stops working the issue is that a few of the solder joints in the amp module have gone dry and cracked through, all you have to do is closly inspect all the solder joints on the back of the board under a decent light and resolder any that look suspect.

BigRAWesty
21st October 2014, 10:01 PM
Mine was well beyond a solder job lol.
And second one had warranty so wasn't going to pull it apart.

GQJames
8th July 2018, 03:35 PM
Just fixed my driver's door window, was one of the solder connections on the board inside the black box attached the motor... works great now, thanks heaps!!😁