Using solar twin core charge cable for power...

[mudski]

So this arvo after work I was rewiring my camper, because the eff heads who built it did such a crap job from new. I also decided to run a much heavier twin core from the batteries to where I run the fridge to reduce voltage drop over the distance. Anyhow after running around 10 meters from the front to the back, through wiring tubes and grommets I realised the cable I used was solar charging cable. I didn't even look at it, I saw it rolled up and thought I had some 6 b&s so I just grabbed it and off I went.
So am I going have issues using this cable? It's replacing the 10 or so meters of 3 mm twin that was originally used.

Thanks.

[megatexture]

Im not 100% but from my understanding not that ive looked into it is that solar wire is tinned like what you would use in a marine application to protect against corrosion so unless anyone else knows any other diffrence I dont see an issue using it

[Scorpiovee]

What is the size of the new wire you've run and how many strands are in it?

[mudski]

Im not 100% but from my understanding not that ive looked into it is that solar wire is tinned like what you would use in a marine application to protect against corrosion so unless anyone else knows any other diffrence I dont see an issue using it
Yeah it is tinned, thats what made me look at the sheath on the wire and then I realised...

What is the size of the new wire you've run and how many strands are in it?
Dunno about strands mate but its 6mm twin core solar cable.

I know going bigger than that would be better still but thats what I had, and it sure as hell beats the 3mm that was there... Next is to relocate the water tank pump to closer to the tank and run this eBay job voltage and amp meter that I got. I think you magatexture got one of these aswell didn't you?

[Winnie]

Solar cable is great, I've used it for my light bar. It's UV stabilised and is tinned copper. You will have no problems.

[Cuppa]

I’m not sure what you’re using.


some 6 b&s so I just grabbed it and off I went.
.




Dunno about strands mate but its 6mm twin core solar cable.



If you are using 6 B&S (13.56mm2) - excellent- no problem at all.

If you are using 6mm auto cable (4.5mm2) it will be slightly better than the 3mm you are replacing, but not by much & if you need to do it again.

If you have some cable which has a core of 6mm2 same as above, pull it out & do it again, you’ll regret it if you don’t.

Whether it’s ‘solar cable’ or not makes no odds, the electricity doesn’t know what’s supplying it.

Sorry if this is bad news.

[mudski]

Not bad news at all. I will be better than the wire there...

[megatexture]

Yeah it is tinned, thats what made me look at the sheath on the wire and then I realised...

Dunno about strands mate but its 6mm twin core solar cable.

I know going bigger than that would be better still but thats what I had, and it sure as hell beats the 3mm that was there... Next is to relocate the water tank pump to closer to the tank and run this eBay job voltage and amp meter that I got. I think you magatexture got one of these aswell didn't you?

Yea I got the same monitor I beleave and so far so good,
on my camper I rewired a few months ago I went all out using truck trailer wire, just feed one wire and you have 7core rated at 35a each so much more tidy and is rated enough to run anything although I use 2 strands for the fridge I'm sure one would have been enough

[Winnie]

That is legit 6mm^2 solar cable.

[Cuppa]

If the 10 metres is the combined distance of positve & negative (i.e.. 5 metres of dual cable) the set up will be good with a voltage drop of 0.26v. If however you have used 10 metres of dual cable (20 metre total distance) then voltage drop over that distance will be 0.53v.

It is widely considered that a good figure to aim for in regard to voltage drop is 0.3v or lower. Higher will still work, but it’s wasted power which given the amount spent on the rest of system, including the fridge, it seems like a false economy to use undersized wire.

if you have more of the same cable, doubling up as MT has would make sense. Just twist the two ends of the dual cable together so it becomes a single cable & run another the same- one for positive , one for negative. Over 10 metres (total 20 metres) this will give a voltage drop of 0.26v.

http://www.redarc.com.au/handy-hints/calculator/voltage_drop_calculator/

[mudski]

If the 10 metres is the combined distance of positve & negative (i.e.. 5 metres of dual cable) the set up will be good with a voltage drop of 0.26v. If however you have used 10 metres of dual cable (20 metre total distance) then voltage drop over that distance will be 0.53v.

It is widely considered that a pink elephant went flying across the sky shooting candy out of its trunk....
Sorry Cuppa. My brain seems to wander every now and then. So I am using 10meters of this dual cable (1 x 10metres +ive and 1 x 10metres on -ive) So my voltage drop is the higher one yes? If so its staying that way. I have no room in the cable runs under the trailer for anymore wire. Besides, it will be a shite load better than before....
Thanks.

Now to firgure out this amp and voltage meter thingo and the best way to wire in the water pump via an elec switch at the sink. Also flush mount water connections. So I can simply plug in the hose from the tap to the trailer. Like a quick release setup I suppose. I have this for the gas and its good. Just want to do the same for water but haven't found anything yet.

My POS new trailer is getting more, unPOS, which I'm happy with. :)


O.h While I was under removing the wiring from the turds who built this thing, I found more stripped and bare wires, with elec tape just wrapped around the damaged area. Tools they are!!! I really want to show these idiots but I think I know the reaction I may receive if I show them..

[megatexture]

I've got just a switch on the side of the kitchen and a hand pump tap ATM that helps to prime the pump if I get air in the line and I just plug in a hose through the bottom of the kitchen but I'm thinking of swapping to a tap with a switch. You have a pressure pump don't you?

[Cuppa]

So I am using 10meters of this dual cable (1 x 10metres +ive and 1 x 10metres on -ive) So my voltage drop is the higher one yes? If so its staying that way. I have no room in the cable runs under the trailer for anymore wire. Besides, it will be a shite load better than before....
Thanks.




Yes.

According to the Redarc calculator I linked to:
Voltage drop previously with 3mm2 cable would have been large at 1.06v over that distance.
Voltage drop previously with 3mm auto cable (1.13mm2) would have been massive at 2.81v!

I can’t recall posting anything about pink elephants! LOL.

[mudski]

I've got just a switch on the side of the kitchen and a hand pump tap ATM that helps to prime the pump if I get air in the line and I just plug in a hose through the bottom of the kitchen but I'm thinking of swapping to a tap with a switch. You have a pressure pump don't you?

Yeah I have a pressure pump.....The tap I bought has no switch, its just turn on and turn off. So I would have to have a switch for the pump, when on it would prime the line to the tap and when you open the tap, the pump turns on.

Yes.

According to the Redarc calculator I linked to:
Voltage drop previously with 3mm2 cable would have been large at 1.06v over that distance.
Voltage drop previously with 3mm auto cable (1.13mm2) would have been massive at 2.81v!

I can’t recall posting anything about pink elephants! LOL.

Thank Cuppa. Nice pick up too http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/smilies/bigthumbup.gif

[megatexture]

It would be a lot harder to plumb in a pressure pump I've just got garden hose fittings with the stop valves on mine but I don't think I'd trust them if its under pressure all the time

[mudski]

It would be a lot harder to plumb in a pressure pump I've just got garden hose fittings with the stop valves on mine but I don't think I'd trust them if its under pressure all the time

The pump I have is a SeaFlo. 3.8LMP at 35PSI. So its not huge... Hey you wouldn't happen to have the instal instructions for this amp/ volt gauge thingo? I seem to have lost mine. :/ Well I have half of it, it has pictures but I do remember another sheet. Just want to be sure I am installing it correct. Particularly with mounting the shunt. I take it needs to be mounted on something non conductive?

[sooty_10]

I'm pretty sure I have the same monitor your talking about mudski, these the instructions your looking for? If you can't read them I can try and scan and upload or email them to you.

[megatexture]

The pump I have is a SeaFlo. 3.8LMP at 35PSI. So its not huge... Hey you wouldn't happen to have the instal instructions for this amp/ volt gauge thingo? I seem to have lost mine. :/ Well I have half of it, it has pictures but I do remember another sheet. Just want to be sure I am installing it correct. Particularly with mounting the shunt. I take it needs to be mounted on something non conductive?
As long as the battery side isnt in contact with anyhing that would conduct, the other side wouldnt matter as all the current would still be passing through the shunt

[mudski]

I'm pretty sure I have the same monitor your talking about mudski, these the instructions your looking for? If you can't read them I can try and scan and upload or email them to you.

Thats the one. Only if you have time can to scan and email them it would be much appreciated. While a bit blurry I can read it fine. More so I can print it off and have it next to me when I need it.

[sooty_10]

Thats the one. Only if you have time can to scan and email them it would be much appreciated. While a bit blurry I can read it fine. More so I can print it off and have it next to me when I need it.

Here's a scan mate... I'll also go grab a photo of how I mounted mine to give you another idea perhaps. I haven't mounted the actual monitor yet just the shunt.

[sooty_10]

Not sure if the scan worked?? The PDF shows up on my laptop but not on my phone??

Here's some pics of my shunt mounted...

49412


49414

The engine bay when I first opened the bonnet, bit of wombat still in there I think.

49413

I know what I'm doing tomorrow.

[Bloodyaussie]

James..... wash your bloody car !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[sooty_10]

James..... wash your bloody car !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I washed the outside, but completely neglected the engine bay, I'm on it in the morning I promise....

[mudski]

Not sure if the scan worked?? The PDF shows up on my laptop but not on my phone??

Here's some pics of my shunt mounted...

49412


49414

The engine bay when I first opened the bonnet, bit of wombat still in there I think.

49413

I know what I'm doing tomorrow.

Legend. Makes more sense when I see how the shunt is mounted. I was thinking of mounting it separate from the battery. The pictures make sense.

[sooty_10]

Legend. Makes more sense when I see how the shunt is mounted. I was thinking of mounting it separate from the battery. The pictures make sense.

I hooked up the meter as a dummy fit when I mounted the shunt and it all worked a treat, I just need to find somewhere now to actually put the meter.

Did the scanned instructions work for you? If not PM me your email and I'll send it through.

[mudski]

Scans came through good. Thanks.

[sooty_10]

James..... wash your bloody car !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Off topic but....Just for you BA

49433

[mudski]

Seems I am missing another diagram. Diagram #3.
The scanned instruction sheet says to refer to diagrams 1,2 and 3. I have one sheet with 2 x #1 and 1 x #2 diagrams. Just trying to figure out what the third diagram is....

[megatexture]

Yea there is a page with the 3-4 wire diagrams on it

[megatexture]

This isn't the page but these are the photos off the ebay page but are the same photos

[sooty_10]

The way I see it is image #2 and #3 are pretty much the same, it's just showing the current draining or charging. The big difference between #1 with #2 & #3 is the unit itself has it's own power supply and not just tee'd off the voltage sensing terminal. Basically so you can have it switched with ignition or via your own switch etc.

[Bob]

I have one of these Multi Function Panel Meter's together with instructiuons and shunt.
Was going to install on my Caravan but I have something similar by Redarc installed on my Solar Panel and Regulator.
Free to whoever wants it

[mudski]

The way I see it is image #2 and #3 are pretty much the same, it's just showing the current draining or charging. The big difference between #1 with #2 & #3 is the unit itself has it's own power supply and not just tee'd off the voltage sensing terminal. Basically so you can have it switched with ignition or via your own switch etc.

I'm putting it in my camper trailer so I'm not sure.

[megatexture]

Be careful with the wire clamp screws not to back them out too far or it will give you the s#its to get the screw to grab again. Also one wire needs to be able to be disconnected in order to reset the unit so I would recommend not jumping the power feeds as this will make it more annoying down the track

[mudski]

Be careful with the wire clamp screws not to back them out too far or it will give you the s#its to get the screw to grab again. Also one wire needs to be able to be disconnected in order to reset the unit so I would recommend not jumping the power feeds as this will make it more annoying down the track

Not entirely sure what your talking about mate. Tbh, I haven't looked at it properly yet. I am nearly finished everything else. Just got the water pump mounting to go and then think of a quick release water connection from tap on the tail gate kitchen to the trailer. Similar to the gas quick release connection I have.

[Cuppa]

Also one wire needs to be able to be disconnected in order to reset the unit

Same on the NASA battery monitor that I have. I installed a switch in the positive cable, mounted next to the monitor. Makes re-setting much more convenient than having to delve into the battery compartment.

[mudski]

Be careful with the wire clamp screws not to back them out too far or it will give you the s#its to get the screw to grab again. Also one wire needs to be able to be disconnected in order to reset the unit so I would recommend not jumping the power feeds as this will make it more annoying down the track

O.k so I'm up to getting this done. From the diagram can you tell me which wire I would need to put a switch onto? Edit : Just read cuppa's post, the red wire from the PCB I would put a switch in, also going buy the pic that sooty has posted up, the bottom right picture is what I am to go buy I think. The "charger" in their pic would be my BCDC charger in the trailer? And where it says external power supply. What would that be? I have in my trailer the Redarc BCDC charger and a mains charger onto two batteries.
Thanks

[megatexture]

the external power supply will be taken direct from your campers battery not through the shunt
im not sure what photo your referring to that sooty put up ?

[mudski]

the external power supply will be taken direct from your campers battery not through the shunt
im not sure what photo your referring to that sooty put up ?

O.h is the external power supply just to power the unit?
The pic was your mate. Post #30. i was reading sooty's post and then just wrote his name by mistake.

In that pic, where it says charger, I am just treating that as my Redarc BDBC. Am I correct?

[megatexture]

Yep your correct, basically the shunt has to be the first point of contacting the negative to measure all current in and out. If you put the redarc straight to the battery the unit would only measure the power drain but not the charging while you drive.

..I think it was the red vin wire that needed switching from memory but now having a quick read it may be the vin and gnd also and if that is the case just use a double throw switch.

Hope this makes sense as I'm passing out lmao

[mudski]

Yep your correct, basically the shunt has to be the first point of contacting the negative to measure all current in and out. If you put the redarc straight to the battery the unit would only measure the power drain but not the charging while you drive.

..I think it was the red vin wire that needed switching from memory but now having a quick read it may be the vin and gnd also and if that is the case just use a double throw switch.

Hope this makes sense as I'm passing out lmao

Yeah kinda makes sense. So just an on/off/ on switch or on/on?
Its pretty much all wired in except for this part.
What will happen if I don't do the switch bit? As im running out of time thats all.

[megatexture]

Yeah kinda makes sense. So just an on/off/ on switch or on/on?
Its pretty much all wired in except for this part.
What will happen if I don't do the switch bit? As im running out of time thats all.

If you don't do it you will just have to disconnect the wires so no big deal and it could be done at a later date,

If only one wire needs to be switched then a standard single switch would be fine.
If two need to be switched( at the same time on and off) a double poll single throw switch would work, basically switches two separate wires at the same time like in the pic
Spst= single poll single throw
Spdt= single poll double throw
Dpst= double poll single throw... Etc

50963

[mudski]

Thanks. I'm outa time and I have wired it all it apart from the switch. I'll have a crack when I get home.

[megatexture]

Ive done the same so next time I go to reset it ill throw in a switch also maybe in y months to a year lol

[sooty_10]

I don't have a switch in my setup either, mines pretty easy to get to to remove the one wire if and when I need to reset it. I can only see that I occurring if I need a new battery, hopefully not for several years and this ones only new.

[Cuppa]

Just found this thread again. Just to clarify what I used in my set up .......... only reason for putting the switch in for resetting the monitor is for convenience. In my case getting to the battery to disconnect the wire is a bit of a pain, so having a switch does the same job. Just an SPST switch in the +ve wire will do. I actually used a normal 240v household light switch. Over time, resetting the monitor will be necessary to maintain accurac, prior to the batteries needs replacing. This is because as the batteries age their capacity drops. To be honest though, whether I will ever bother to test the battery capacity to know what to reset the monitor to is debatable, especially as I mainly look at volts & amps.

My main reason for the switch is because of how I have my system set up. The winch utilises the batteries I have in the pod (together with the start battery), & can pull way more amps than my 100amp monitor can count. Consequently I have a means of manually bypassing the monitor & to maintain accuracy need to reset it after using the winch.

[Bob]

I have one of these Multi Function Panel Meter's together with instructiuons and shunt.
Was going to install on my Caravan but I have something similar by Redarc installed on my Solar Panel and Regulator.
Free to whoever wants it

Just bumping my Offer

[sooty_10]

Just bumping my Offer

Is it one of these monitors?

50985

If so I'll take it off your hands bob.

If its one of these ones....

50986

I already have one and recommend anyone else this is a great offer from Bob.

[mudski]

Thanks guys. I am pretty impressed with this little cheap unit. Not that I know much about them... My new bosch 180W panels worked a treat too over the weekend. I got quite hot during the days so the combi fridge was working overtime to keep things cool. The sun was out mostly and the panels kept the charge at no less than 97% the whole time. Finally I think its coming together good in my trailer. But I think I need to clean up a few things around the battery area.
So to put a reset switch in. I just put in the +ive on the external power supply to the unit. As this will turn off the unit.
Also. I have three sets of wires coming to the batterys for supply. One for rear left single ciggie socket( using twin 4mm), one for rear right double ciggie socket ( using twin 6mm ), this side is for where I plug my combi into, and the last is up front on a single ciggie socket (twin 4mm), where the combi gets charged whilst travelling.
Now the two 4mm connections are on a circuit breaker 40A I think. The 6MM is on a 20A in line fuse. One of those big mofo fuses with the gold plating. Is this o.k or should I just run fuses for all independantly or circuit breakers??? I just want to clean this area up as its kinda getting messy there.

[Bob]

Is it one of these monitors?

50985

If so I'll take it off your hands bob.

If its one of these ones....

50986

I already have one and recommend anyone else this is a great offer from Bob.

It is the one that you already have Mate

[megatexture]

Thanks guys. I am pretty impressed with this little cheap unit. Not that I know much about them... My new bosch 180W panels worked a treat too over the weekend. I got quite hot during the days so the combi fridge was working overtime to keep things cool. The sun was out mostly and the panels kept the charge at no less than 97% the whole time. Finally I think its coming together good in my trailer. But I think I need to clean up a few things around the battery area.
So to put a reset switch in. I just put in the +ive on the external power supply to the unit. As this will turn off the unit.
Also. I have three sets of wires coming to the batterys for supply. One for rear left single ciggie socket( using twin 4mm), one for rear right double ciggie socket ( using twin 6mm ), this side is for where I plug my combi into, and the last is up front on a single ciggie socket (twin 4mm), where the combi gets charged whilst travelling.
Now the two 4mm connections are on a circuit breaker 40A I think. The 6MM is on a 20A in line fuse. One of those big mofo fuses with the gold plating. Is this o.k or should I just run fuses for all independantly or circuit breakers??? I just want to clean this area up as its kinda getting messy there.

I'll show you my set up, everything on its own fuse and in one place looks tidy.. That is till you lift the lid!

[mudski]

I'll show you my set up, everything on its own fuse and in one place looks tidy.. That is till you lift the lid!

Haha! Like mine. Next on the list to do....

[megatexture]

Just put a box in so everything can be hidden and protected, fuse panel Is under the black lid and another one under the flip lid so there's plenty of room to add stuff later not that I can foresee anything else needed.

I've got at least 8 cig/merit plugs, water pump, uhf, inside the tent and kitchen dual USB plugs, plenty of led lighting , 2 fans for summer etc

[mudski]

Good setup... I'm getting somewhere with mine now I feel. After all the drama's. ...

[megatexture]

Ive been adding to mine over a few years and it was all just lots of wires and chaos and that annoyed the shi!t outta me.
I’ve just recently redone it all now that I know it’s now how we like it and tidied it all up.
try and set it up once or run trailer wire from your toolbox to the kitchen etc so you have a few spare wires there for future use.

[mickn]

i'd be very happy to take that monitor off your hands bob if it's still on offer.......

mickn

[Bob]

i'd be very happy to take that monitor off your hands bob if it's still on offer.......

mickn

PM sent mate and it is yours