Gq clutch issue

[mark89]

Hey fellas have a gq ute 42td lately the clutch feels funny, have to release fully before acceleration not much pedal left, replaced slave cylinder few months back but is using a bit of fluid so thinking replacing master and bleeding it? Seems to be down on power too clutch just feels odd, is due for service so gona do that when I get home next week but clutch hasn't actually slipped yet, and I Duno whether to bite the bullet and buy a new clutch or squeeze life out of current one, opinions appreciated thanks.

[93patrol]

check the flexible hose that goes to the slave cylinder this went on mine and i had to replace it while i was there i put a new clutch and slave cylinder on it

[Col.T]

G'day Mark,
reckon if you're loosing fluid that's pretty sure to be where your problem is. It's really a matter of following all the lines/rods from your replaced slave back to the pedal. Pedal because i've had a knackered master which leaked invisibly back down the push rod through the fire wall onto the pedal.
Once that's fixed, if there's still a problem, look elsewhere.
Sold my old 4.2diesel at over 400K (with a lot of 2.0t caravan pulling) without a sign of clutch trouble. Numerous masters and slaves though.
Luck,
Col

[mark89]

Cheers fellas will degrease everything and check when home there is noticeable fluid in bay and it's never leaked much of anything so will check all lines. Cars done 580k but everything is unknown bit of a bitser so who knows how many ks clutch is on I do like a very heavy clutch so upgrading may work in my favour anyway just don't like fixing things if not broken

[gooch]

I have a sim5 problem but no obvious leaks. Wat could be this cause?

[rkinsey]

I have a sim5 problem but no obvious leaks. Wat could be this cause?

G'day Gooch,

Just like the responses in this thread, you will need to check the condition of your master and slave cylinders along with the condition of the hoses and connection points for leaks and wear.

The clutch plate face is designed to wear and over time will need to be replaced at some time in its life. The more stress you put on your driveline with offroading and towing will wear the clutch out faster. Depending on the clutch installed depends on the life of the unit.

If you have a high KM unit and havnt had the clutch looked at in a while (or never like most of us) then its probably a safe bet that you need to have the clutch replaced and in doing so you should have a new clutch kit installed including the spigot bearing, thrust bearing, rear main seal (for the crank shaft) have the fly wheel machined (or replaced would be my recommendation)

Replacing a clutch isn't all that difficult in itself once you understand how they work and what components are involved. The tricky part is having the correct tools to be able to do the job with. Like a gearbox jack stand to support the gearbox as you have to remove it from the car to do this job.

If you are going to do this yourself or have someone do it for you, I would also suggest to have the uni joints on the drive shafts (Front and rear) replaced as well. Seeing that they will also be off the car.

Cheers,

Rob

[gooch]

Thanks for the info. Ill have to check the clutch when I pull the motor out to replace the rear welch plugs

[93patrol]

What ever you do don't do it alone as the gearboxes in these things weight close to 300kg or more

[gooch]

Gonna use a chain block to lift the engine out

[Marti]

i used to have the same problem, ended up being the clutch master had spat the rear seal leaking into the booster. tell tail sign was missing paint on the booster where the brake fluid was leaking

[rkinsey]

Gonna use a chain block to lift the engine out

I have lifted the engine and gearbox out of a GQ (RD28T) by myself and it was a pain in the @#$%^&* backside!

Took me just on 4 hours and I was absolutely nackered.

If you are going to do it yourself here are a few tips:

1. Raise the height of the vehicle as much as you can that is safe and secure as the length of the engine and gearbox will see you using an extreme angle to clear the front apron. (I scraped the ground with the yolk on the gearbox)

2. Get some mates to help you

3. Make sure that the anchor point for the block can take at least 2t (to be safe) the engine and gearbox together weigh around the 700 - 800 Kg mark.

Cheers,

Rob