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View Full Version : Coolant hardline to turbo cracked and leaking



Nicholas68
1st July 2014, 05:39 PM
So trying to remove my dump pipe I accidentaly bumped my coolant hardline that runs to the turbo in my RD28 gu patrol. It's leaking coolant everywhere now.

http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/j470/Nicholas_Semple/Mobile%20Uploads/20140701_154007.jpg
http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/j470/Nicholas_Semple/Mobile%20Uploads/20140701_153942.jpg

What would be the best way to get this fixed in one day as I need car for work on Thursday?

nissannewby
1st July 2014, 05:45 PM
Remove it and solder it up or you could cut each end long enough to out a hose on and run like that until you get it sorted. Just make sure the hose won't touch anything.

Nicholas68
1st July 2014, 05:59 PM
I'm interested in the soldering, I think first mission will be getting it out of the car, it appears to run up behind the engine on top of the gearbox to the other side into a soft line on opposite side of the engine, with one bracket holding it at the rear of the car. So going to be a pain trying to get it out. With soldering do I just use standard solder as I would with electrical wires? Cause if that's the case I might remove it, solder it and then wrap it in rescue tape to get me by for the time being and look at an oem replacement or getting one made up later down the track.

nissannewby
1st July 2014, 06:26 PM
You might be able to get away with that solder. A better quality solder would be better but it will prob get you out of trouble.

Nicholas68
1st July 2014, 06:59 PM
Okay, I might give that a try, otherwise I might try the braided SS hose. I just don't know how I would couple it together with the hardline as I'm assuming hose clamps wouldn't work. Are there special couplings that you can get from like super cheap or something do you know?

Nicholas68
1st July 2014, 07:00 PM
Because it would be a lot easier removing it if I can just take a hacksaw to it and then reconnect it back up :P

happygu
1st July 2014, 08:51 PM
Don't know how much room you have, but if you empty the line, and can get hold of an oxy/acetylene set, you should be able to fix it without having to go to the trouble of removing it

Cuppa
1st July 2014, 10:30 PM
What is all that ‘stuff’ on the bend of the pipe. It looks like it may have built up over time. Is it possible the leak has been occurring for some time?

Nicholas68
1st July 2014, 11:07 PM
There may have been a pin hole leak there for a while which has built up all that gunk, but today it definitely got bigger, feels like a decent split. I've got some aluminium welding rod things that you heat up the surface of what you want to fix and then dab it on like solder and it welds itself on. I think for memory the sales guy said it works on any metal that isn't magnetic. So might give that a try to patch the hole if it's not magnetic and then wrap it in rescue tape. Hopefully that will get me by for a week or two so I can drive it down somewhere to get a new line made up.

Also with using rubber hose near the turbo what's the deal with it? I know people say not to use it. Is it because once the engine gets to operating temp it will melt and leave me on the side of the road? Or is it because it'l just greatly reduce the life of the hose with the high heat and will only last for a few weeks or months? Because if it;s the later I can probably get some and some clamps from SCA and do a temp fix to get me by for a week.

nissannewby
1st July 2014, 11:57 PM
Okay, I might give that a try, otherwise I might try the braided SS hose. I just don't know how I would couple it together with the hardline as I'm assuming hose clamps wouldn't work. Are there special couplings that you can get from like super cheap or something do you know?

Braided ss hose should have a Teflon insert. You could get away with using a hose clamp on it even use a small amount of thread sealant to help.

nissannewby
1st July 2014, 11:58 PM
What is all that ‘stuff’ on the bend of the pipe. It looks like it may have built up over time. Is it possible the leak has been occurring for some time?

That's actually a previous repair by the looks of it.

Alitis007
2nd July 2014, 12:26 AM
If your going to solder the tube, solder won't stick unless you use backers flux, even if you braze the tube with silver solder or bronze you'll still need the bakers flux and also that powder flux ( can't remember the name ). The solder used for electrical wires is self fluxing so you won't need the powder.

If you want to use ss braid you can buy fittings that you can make up your own line to suit your application with no special tool required. I've used areoflow 200 and 250 series teflon hose with ss outer braid but there are other brands like proflow and superflow that also have these fittings

threedogs
2nd July 2014, 08:45 AM
What is all that ‘stuff’ on the bend of the pipe. It looks like it may have built up over time. Is it possible the leak has been occurring for some time?
looking close at that it looks like someone has attempted to repair it before on that bend,
I'd remove the whole lot clean it up and silver solder it up

jff45
2nd July 2014, 09:16 AM
Silver solder would be the solution. If you don't have one, run down to Bunnings and buy a Bernzomatic torch with a 'Mapp' gas cylinder (not butane or propane) and a 5% 2mm brazing rod.
They also sell the powder flux mixed with water.
If a section is really badly pitted, you could braze in a section of copper pipe or remake the whole thing from copper pipe for that matter.

nissannewby
2nd July 2014, 01:22 PM
You can buy pre fluxed rods from most welding suppliers then it's just a matter of point and heat. In any case you need to be sure the area is as clean as it can be prior to soldering.

Nicholas68
2nd July 2014, 01:59 PM
Okay, so I got the piece removed (what a mission!!) and it definitely has been previously repaired. It's like a strong putty looking thing. But theres a crack in the putty and I assume that's where the water is coming from. I am a bit of a DIY'er but not overly mechanical, and being a pain of a job I want a fix I know is going to last. So I ordered an OEM part + the gasket from nissan which will be here friday. Pipe is coming from VIC and gasket from WA. $100 for the part and gasket, so probably a lot more then it's worth but to me it didn't seem tooo bad as a reliable fix, I was expecting $200+ tbh.

Now back to installing exhaust and removing the old dump pipe which started this whole mess. Guess it was a dodgy repair that was going to show itself sooner or later. Better showing itself taking a hit with a socket then out bush stuck on the side of the road in middle of nowhere with a busted pipe from corrugations breaking up the putty.

happygu
2nd July 2014, 07:19 PM
I am with you there Nicholas ...much better to know it is good now, then find out you have no water in the middle of nowhere.

Mic