DIY - TB45E turbo install

[jff45]

I've noticed elsewhere that these TB45E turbo builds usually generate a fair bit of interest so I thought I'd add mine and explain with pics how I went about it.

I've had this vehicle for 7 years now and I've gone through the usual stages of extractors + 2.5" exhaust system and finally added an Xede piggyback to make some changes to fuel & timing.
Each of these changes adds a little more performance but, as I'm hoping to hook up a fairly heavy caravan one day for the traditional lap, I really thought I needed a bit more power in reserve to cover those overtaking situations that many talk about.
I had thought about selling it and getting a 4.8 but the old 4.5s aren't worth a lot these days even if mine is a Ti with only 132,000 kms on it. I've done a fair bit of work on mine and just knew I wouldn't find a reasonably priced 4.8 in the same nick.
Then there's the fact that I have a heap of spares for the 4.5 (even a spare auto trans), I have the manuals & PDFs, etc and they are a far easier engine to work on than the 4.8 e.g. tappet adjustment is a $300 dealer job.

So, what about power.. the standard 4.8 puts out ~ 130 - 135 rwkW. Most turboed 4.5s can be made to reliably produce ~150 kW under 7 psi. I'm planning to run with the standard internals (don't see any point in opening a 130k kms engine) and limit the boost to 0.3 bar (~4.5 psi). That should give me what I need and still be reasonably kind to the auto trans. I have already fitted a TransGo shift kit to the auto and done the line pressure solenoid mod with a 2k ohm resistor as well as an additional big Davies Craig trans fluid cooler. I have a temp gauge on the trans and run Castrol TransmaxZ in it. My research tells me it should hold up if I don't drive it like an idiot.. at 68 not much risk of that..

Cost.. I did a bit of research and decided that I could keep this project under $4k if I do as much as possible myself. I was a mechanic in a much earlier life (70s - early 80s) and have a pretty well equipped shed. I have a welder and plasma cutter, a press, etc so just about all I need for light fabrication.
There was no way I could have swapped into a 4.8 in the same condition for that kind of money..

This is the vehicle I'm starting with..

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Patrol%20pics/IMG_0607_zpscea0a227.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Patrol%20pics/IMG_0593_zps464aba85.jpg


These are my costs so far..

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Costs_zps94d5c719.jpg


One thing I've done throughout this project is always keep the vehicle drivable. Even making up the IC frame, I could always get the airbox and intake pipes, etc back on within a half hour if I needed to use it.

You can't use the TB45E airbox so why not use a different Patrol airbox that drops straight into existing holes and lines up with the original hole in the inner guard where the snorkel enters.
To do that, you need to move the charcoal canister. If you throw it away, you won't get complianced.
I moved mine down behind the bumper. I welded up a simple bracket from some scrap flat bar. Obviously, you'll need longer vacuum hoses.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/IMG_0719_zps7f8cda59.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/IMG_0718_zpsca740f77.jpg

The clean air intake for the canister must be removed from where it goes into the inner guard. I routed it up behind the left headlight and fitted a small air filter to it.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/IMG_1571_zpsaa70ad89.jpg


An important point here is that you'll need to fit check valves into the 2 vacuum hoses to stop pressurising the canister under boost.

Here's the TD42 airbox fitted in place of the charcoal canister. The 3" silicone elbow will point down towards the turbo compressor once it gets fitted.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Airbox/IMG_1502_zps3e2a1be9.jpg

The mod for the cobra head is easy. There are threads elsewhere where people have done some better mods with flanges, etc but I kept mine simple and just cut the original outlet off with a Dremel and inserted a short length of 3" exhaust pipe with Sikaflex and 4 screws.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Airbox/IMG_1495_zpse68e8859.jpg

I cut the flat flange off the intake and passed a 3.5" short silicone hose through the hole to join the airbox intake to the snorkel. You need to pop out the left indicator to tighten the hose clamp inside the guard.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Airbox/IMG_1490_zps0831fd98.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Airbox/IMG_1494_zps918aa16d.jpg


More coming...

[jff45]

Engine management:

I've had an Xede piggyback on my N/A setup for a while now. I was lucky enough to pick it up from US Ebay for a little over $100 incl. Postage.


Here are a couple of Autospeed articles about the Xede and some other choices.

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&title=The-Xede-Interceptor&A=1545

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&title=Engine-Management-Interceptors-Part-Two&A=2901

What I liked about it is that the Xmap tuning software is free from Chiptorque - you're not restricted to only authorised sellers/tuners as with Unichip, for example.
The timing profile file for the 4.5 is also free as is the wiring diagram from the Chiptorque website.
Although I didn't buy it from them new, I got excellent replies from emails to Chiptorque and they even sent me a tuning map they had done on their dyno with a 4.5 with exactly the same exhaust mods as mine.
I even got some free advice from their head tuner on using a MAP sensor as the load parameter for the fuel and timing maps.

For the low boost I'll be running, the Xede should handle it. It can pull up to 10 degrees of timing and can alter the MAF signal sufficiently for my needs. There was a recent thread elsewhere where a supercharged 4.8 put out 185 kW @ 5 psi boost using an Xede piggyback.

Another advantage of the piggyback is that you retain all the principal functions of the factory ECU.

To be able to detect when your under boost you must have a MAP sensor. Some engine management systems have them included inside the case.
For the boost I'll be running, a 2 bar MAP sensor is all I need so I bought a GM type from Ebay and mounted it here:

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/MAP_zps274c182d.jpg

I've taken the manifold pressure for the MAP sensor from the cruise control vacuum hose then a T from that to inside for the boost gauge.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Mapandboostlines_zps93bb8ba1.jpg

The MAP sensor needs a 5v feed so I've taken that off my Innovate SSI-4 data logger. I also bought a cheap Ebay 12v to 5v converter just in case.
The MAP is wired to both my data logger and the Xede at the moment but I'm still using MAF & TPS for the load signal with my N/A setup.

Fuel:

When the inlet manifold is under boost, the fuel pressure will need to rise to help the injectors open against the boost pressure.
I fitted a boost referenced fuel regulator that will increase the fuel pressure at a 1:1 ratio.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/IMG_1509_zps0968d7aa.jpg

I'll try it first with the factory 270cc injectors but I did buy a set of 370cc RB25DET injectors from Gumtree for $30 that I can swap in if the originals max out. They shouldn't at that boost level.
I have a Bosch in line fuel pump I can also fit if required otherwise I'll get a Walbro to replace the original pump.


More coming...

[jff45]

Oil return from turbo:

This is pretty easy to do. I didn't remove the sump, just used well-greased bits and taps.
Has a 1/2" NPT bung in it in the meantime. I'll be fitting braided teflon hose with -10AN fittings.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/IMG_0831_zps04ecdc82.jpg

[04OFF]

Great work !, thanks for posting so far.

Interesting about not removing the sump, id be just a bit worried about metal shavings, if it works out , you save a lot of time doing it your way.

[jff45]

Interesting about not removing the sump, id be just a bit worried about metal shavings, if it works out , you save a lot of time doing it your way.

There isn't any real risk if you think about it. A well greased drill bit retains a lot of the aluminium shavings. Anything that might fall in has to get through the oil pickup screen which is designed to only allow stuff through that can go through the pump. Finally, it has to get past the oil filter before it can get into the working parts.

[Sherro]

Nice work there mate it will be a different beast to drive when finished.

[Alitis007]

Nice work, looking forward to the end result! Just one thing with the oil feed, if you run -3 braid you won't need a restrictor

[grahamap]

Gread thread buddy, very professional workmanship! Thought perhaps a heavy magnet would aid in keeping shavings out also

[jff45]

Gread thread buddy, very professional workmanship! Thought perhaps a heavy magnet would aid in keeping shavings out also

If it were steel ,yes, but this is drilled into the aluminium section of the sump.

I did it 6 months ago and it's been running beautifully since..

[jff45]

Nice work, looking forward to the end result! Just one thing with the oil feed, if you run -3 braid you won't need a restrictor

Me too!

I've already fitted a 1mm restrictor (Kinugawa only supplied it with -4AN) as recommended on the Garrett website for the GT35R. I'm running -4AN for the oil feed because it was the only size in line filter (strainer) I could find and the 1/8 BSPT to -4AN adapter for the oil feed outlet on the block was also easy to find.

[04OFF]

There isn't any real risk if you think about it. A well greased drill bit retains a lot of the aluminium shavings. Anything that might fall in has to get through the oil pickup screen which is designed to only allow stuff through that can go through the pump. Finally, it has to get past the oil filter before it can get into the working parts.

I guess my concern would be ,Id have thought alloy shavings could float on oil, then perhaps the big end/crank could dip the oil and pick this up, probly overthinking things, but ive always removed sumps on other turbo installs, to fit the oil return.

Anyway, John i don't wan't to start spamming up a exellent build thread, so if its still all working then sweet, lets leave it at that. :smiley_thumbs_up:

[jff45]

I don't see it as spamming at all. I appreciate your interest, even more so now that you've mentioned you've done turbo installs yourself.

I've never done this sort of thing before so I'm a complete novice. These threads are for sharing ideas and I welcome any and all comments especially if someone sees something that I've done blatantly wrong.

[jff45]

Intercooler:

This has been the most challenging and rewarding phase of the excercise so far.
My research convinced me that there was nothing more important than keeping intake air temps down so that meant fitting the biggest IC I could. It had to be top mount because of the winch and auto trans coolers not allowing for front mount fitting.
This in turn meant I had to use a low mount manifold to leave enough room on top.

As this is a budget install, no point in throwing big money at it. Ebay is my friend so I got this:

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Intercooler/IMG_1575_zps703080ac.jpg

I knew it was going to be close to the bonnet and I didn't want it to shake with the engine. I also wanted a fan underneath it so I decided the best way was to make a cradle that fixed it to the bodywork.
The cradle would also serve to better mount the fan rather than bolt the fan directly to/through the IC.

Here are some pics of my first attempts using too many silicone elbows which would have meant too many hose clamps and the whole thing a bit too thick where it fits to the throttle body.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Intercooler/IMG_1405_zps9fb6b138.png

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Intercooler/IMG_1100_zps4d18b014.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Intercooler/IMG_1073_zpsc2730ea1.jpg


So I decided it would be more practical (and look better) if I fabricated as much of the intake piping as possible from exhaust pipe. This would allow me to mount the BOV a bit closer to where it crosses over to the pre-turbo air intake.
I had bought a whole bunch of different sizes and bends of 2.5", 2.75" & 3" mandrel bent 1.6mm pipes from Ebay.
I did the fine grinding to get angle right with an old belt sander I haven't used in years.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Intercooler/IMG_1289_zps9078d3ea.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Intercooler/IMG_1290_zps7d1f17f2.jpg

Added the air feed pipe for the IACV and welded an 8mm nut on for the temp sensor for the fan switch.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Intercooler/IMG_1292_zps4c9e2505.jpg

Added the 25mm pipe for the BOV.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Intercooler/IMG_1297_zps00832f1b.jpg


This is where it's at at the moment

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Intercooler/IMG_1342_zps425e8e73.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Intercooler/IMG_1341_zpsbd657d7b.jpg

This the fan I chose. It's a Davies Craig 12"

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Intercooler/IMG_1102_zpsfde43ca9.jpg

Here's the fan fitted into the IC cradle.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Intercooler/IMG_1321_zps64204480.jpg


More to come...

[jff45]

Intercooler continued..

In order to fit that size IC over the throttle body, you have to move the IACV because the connector plug sits too high.

My thanks once again to JoseM from Panama for this idea. It was his TB45E turbo build pics that showed me that a 76mm thick IC could be fitted over the throttle body.

I made this adapter from some 3mm plate and a short length of 25mm square tube. This allowed me to have the IACV down behind the inlet manifold.
I brazed up some copper pipe & elbows to be able to use the original air feed pipe in the meantime. Also, the wires need to be lengthened.


It's actually light grey but the iPad camera turned it blue..
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Intercooler/IMG_0957_zpsc2762139.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Intercooler/IMG_0960_zps7476f387.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Intercooler/IMG_0962_zps03092378.jpg


Here's a pic of the fan mounting bolts. 6mm welded to the frame with nuts and washers fitted first.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Intercooler/IMG_1310_zpse90d2aa9.jpg


This is the clearance under the fan. You'll need to use elbows on the PCV outlets to maintain the clearance.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Intercooler/IMG_1323_zps3e446778.jpg


Small detail on the IC.. I added 20 x 25 x 1.6mm aluminium angle front and rear with pop rivets to have a flat surface for the sealing foam.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Intercooler/IMG_1316_zps8ac5a8c8.jpg


Bonnet scoop next..

[jff45]

Bonnet scoop..

I would have preferred not to do this but with a top mount air-to-air IC you don't have much choice.

This is the Ebay 'Navara style' fibreglass jobbie for $115. Not the real cheapie plastic one nor the higher end $300 - $400 article.
It covers the IC pretty well.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Bonnet%20scoop/IMG_1123_zps0acb11cb.jpg


I painted it with rattle cans (we're talking budget install here, remember..)

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Bonnet%20scoop/IMG_1119_zpsaac78810.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Bonnet%20scoop/IMG_1114_zps052b11b4.jpg

I took the bonnet off to cut it and fit it. It's very slightly off-colour depending on the angle and sunlight but in real life you don't really notice it.. and it is a 13 year old vehicle after all..

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Bonnet%20scoop/IMG_1408_zps9d39d7e1.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Bonnet%20scoop/IMG_1407_zpsfa671a5b.jpg


More to come...

[Alitis007]

Me too! I've already fitted a 1mm restrictor (Kinugawa only supplied it with -4AN) as recommended on the Garrett website for the GT35R. I'm running -4AN for the oil feed because it was the only size in line filter (strainer) I could find and the 1/8 BSPT to -4AN adapter for the oil feed outlet on the block was also easy to find.

The -3 feed line was recommended to me by another workshop and also recommended by the local Garrett dealer aswell after i enquired about it while i was installing a TO4Z On my toy but saying that i didn't run an inline filter. Those fittings are readily available at speed shops like Rocket and VPW and even hose and fittings specialists like Enzed and Pirtex

[04OFF]

I don't see it as spamming at all. I appreciate your interest, even more so now that you've mentioned you've done turbo installs yourself.

I've never done this sort of thing before so I'm a complete novice. These threads are for sharing ideas and I welcome any and all comments especially if someone sees something that I've done blatantly wrong.

Ive only done Turbos on old holden motors 186 and 202s, plus helped with my bro in laws Turbo VW drag car, the only Nissan stuff has been RB30s, had nothing to with Turbo TB45s (even tho i own a TB45) im afraid.

With the progression of pics etc, Im assuming you may have already finished this install ?, if so, this makes it even better for any readers, as you already "know it works".


Scoop looks mint !

FYI, I used the same cheapo intercooler you have, except mine was 150mm wider across the face (600), the engine made over 500hp (eng) so don't let anyone tell you it won't work.

[jff45]

The -3 feed line was recommended to me by another workshop and also recommended by the local Garrett dealer aswell after i enquired about it while i was installing a TO4Z On my toy but saying that i didn't run an inline filter. Those fittings are readily available at speed shops like Rocket and VPW and even hose and fittings specialists like Enzed and Pirtex

Cheers, I've already bought all the fittings and braided teflon hose.
Using -4 for the oil, -6 for the water and -10 for the oil return.

[jff45]

No the install isn't finished yet. Everything is ready now for me to remove the extractors and bolt the turbo on then make the exhaust.
I've been caught up with home-owner chores and stuff and I want to do some N/A logs of timing with AFRs for comparisons.
Also want to log what the MAP sensor is reading up to 100 kpa.
I'm hoping turbo will be fitted in the next month but I wanted to get the thread underway before it became too daunting a task..

[04OFF]

Sweet, look forward to the rest of your posts then :049:

Test & Tune at Willowbank before and after, will give you a great idea on how much more "overtaking" speed you will develop.

[Alitis007]

Cheers, I've already bought all the fittings and braided teflon hose. Using -4 for the oil, -6 for the water and -10 for the oil return.

Apart from the oil feed i used the same sizes of hose.

I look forward to the next installment mate, top notch work your producing btw!

[nissannewby]

Sweet, look forward to the rest of your posts then :049:

Test & Tune at Willowbank before and after, will give you a great idea on how much more "overtaking" speed you will develop.

I have a nice td42 package I have recently completed could be a good comparison.

[jff45]

I have a nice td42 package I have recently completed could be a good comparison.

I can't imagine what you'd want to compare between the 2 different engines. Mine is a sub $4k project running 0.3 bar boost.. And it's an auto..

[nissannewby]

I can't imagine what you'd want to compare between the 2 different engines. Mine is a sub $4k project running 0.3 bar boost.. And it's an auto..

Just differences in setups etc. I'm not saying the td would win as a manual is very slow compared to the auto.

[jff45]

Just differences in setups etc. I'm not saying the td would win as a manual is very slow compared to the auto.

Win??
Were you talking about comparing them down the strip at Willowbank?
Mate, I'm a 68 year old grandfather. You'd be halfway down the strip before I'd even realised the lights had changed, LOL!
Apart from that, I can't think of much else that would interest me less than drag racing a Patrol :)

You win, no worries! LOL!

[jff45]

Some small details..

I had a small issue with the inlet pipe touching the cruise control cable so I decided to drop the cable a little but the front bolt of the bracket was under the cable.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Misc/IMG_1250_zps3d3208d2.jpg


I welded a small piece of flat bar to the original bracket so I could use the mounting hole further forward. This allowed me to file the fork down and gained almost 10mm.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Misc/IMG_1251_zps917109a9.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Misc/IMG_1276_zps59b5b6a4.jpg


Another small issue was the pipe leading to the throttle body hitting the injector connectors. Simple fix - turn 2 & 3 around 180 degrees.
The vacuum hose from the canister was also across the path of the pipe so rather than force it down under where it would rub against the pipe, I simply added a 1/8 BSPT M/F elbow - $5 from Masters.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Misc/180_zpsf396bf25.jpg

[jff45]

Catch can..

Time will tell if this is really necessary on a reasonably low mileage petrol engine but I had to modify one the original PCV hoses anyway so why not run it through a device that could condense any oil vapour.
On top of that, it adds a bright shiny item under the bonnet :)

PCV mod is pretty easy to do on the 4.5. You leave the original rear hose to the PCV valve in place - although I did shorten the elbow for more clearance with the fan. The PCV valve will act as a check valve under boost.
The front hose on the rocker cover is routed to the catch can and another hose from the catch can to the intake pipe between MAF and turbo compressor.

Connected in this manner, the PCV valve works normally under vacuum while the intake air for the engine is drawn through the catch can from the intake pipe between MAF and turbo compressor where it has already been measured by the MAF.
Under boost, the PCV valve will close and any pressure building in the crankcase can exit via the air intake on the rocker cover where it will pass through the catch can and into the pre-turbo intake again.
As the meerkat would say, simples!

This is the $38 Ebay knock off I bought. It's cheap because it has nothing in it which also means it won't catch much because the vapour will go in and straight back out via the 2nd hole.
It does have a sight tube on the side and an oil drain plug.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Catch%20can/imagejpg1_zpsbe091b90.jpg

Very easy to make this work a bit better. We need a baffle to force the vapour to take a longer route. I had some scrap stainless sheet offcuts from my DIY heatshield so I made this:

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Catch%20can/imagejpg2_zps37bc08ff.jpg

We also need some medium to condense any oil vapour. Don't listen to those who say use steel wool - it crumbles into fine steel dust that is easily airborne.
I had some Bunnings aluminium flashing left over so I cut a few pigtails with tin snips. These are big enough so they can't get sucked into the system and have enough surface area to condense the vapour - that's my theory anyway..

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Catch%20can/imagejpg4_zps3a0f55bd.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Catch%20can/imagejpg5_zps92d81a9b.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Catch%20can/imagejpg3_zpsdbffddf4.jpg

Almost forgot, this is where I fitted it..

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Catch%20can/IMG_06721_zps14ee92de.jpg

[jff45]

As mentioned, I chose the low mount to ensure there'd be enough room for the larger IC. I'm thinking it should also result in less engine bay temps down there but I decided to make a heatshield for it anyway. Radiant heat could be significant when it needs to pull hard.

A stainless steel 'mini sheet' from Bunnings is just the right length. Cost $48.
It cuts easily with a hand nibbler and good tinsnips. I didn't want to weld it with the MIG so I just used a couple of 5mm stainless pop rivets on the corners. They're pretty strong - I had to put lengths of pipe on my pop rivet pliers to be able to snap the stalks.

I first welded some additional tabs onto the manifold for the heatshield. I had the manifold made in Tassie. $400 delivered. I doubt I could make it for that money.. and I could never weld that well anyway!

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Turbo%20manifold%20and%20heatshield/IMG_1402_zps8429df48.jpg


Heatshield pics and how it fits on the manifold:

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Turbo%20manifold%20and%20heatshield/IMG_1387_zps6a1037e2.png

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Turbo%20manifold%20and%20heatshield/IMG_1383_zps480f0531.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Turbo%20manifold%20and%20heatshield/IMG_1384_zpsa1b582f4.jpg

I had some offcuts so I made up this piece that fits between the compressor housing and the manifold.
Not sure it will really do anything so no comments, please, on that one..:D
You can see where it fits in the above manifold pic.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Turbo%20manifold%20and%20heatshield/IMG_0987_zps37f04b95.jpg

[scottmeister]

The -3 feed line was recommended to me by another workshop and also recommended by the local Garrett dealer aswell after i enquired about it while i was installing a TO4Z On my toy but saying that i didn't run an inline filter. Those fittings are readily available at speed shops like Rocket and VPW and even hose and fittings specialists like Enzed and Pirtex

It would still be a good idea to utilise a restriction orifice. By supplying only just as much oil as is needed, you reduce bearing windage and thus experience significantly improved spool speeds. By all means -3AN is better than -4AN, but I imagine the bearings are seeing too much volume AND pressure than is required by some excess. It also reduces the risk blowing oil through the seals if a pressure spike is seen for whatever reason (i.e. cold start, new heavier oil, over-rev...).

[jff45]

Here are some different pics of the turbo itself showing how I'm doing the oil feed line and how it connects behind the turbo.

The oil feed can be taken from the block just under the 6th exhaust outlet. It's a 1/8 BSPT thread and the adapter for -4AN connector is easy to find.
I bought all my fittings and braided hoses from Ebay. Good quality and way less than the Aeroflow/Speedflow etc prices here.

Also using a Kinugawa wastgate actuator. They have adjustable length, replaceable membrane and a choice of different springs to set base boost level.
I made the actuator support bracket with a shock absorber washer and some flat bar welded to part of the original support.
As mentioned, I'm starting with 0.3 bar. If I want to go slightly higher later, I'll probably do it with a boost controller.

The water inlet feed can also be taken from the block. There's a 1/4 BSPT plug in the block for emptying coolant. I'm planning to 'T' into the heater return for the return flow.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Turbo%20manifold%20and%20heatshield/IMG_1231_zpsf03eccd5.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Turbo%20manifold%20and%20heatshield/IMG_1232_zps2b595bb2.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Turbo%20manifold%20and%20heatshield/IMG_1240_zps3a4177e5.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Turbo%20manifold%20and%20heatshield/IMG_1175_zps57120eff.jpg

[jff45]

Some miscellaneous stuff..

A really good accessory to have is a wideband gauge that indicates your air/fuel ratios under different conditions. With a turbocharger added, this becomes indispensable, IMO.
I chose the Innovate MTX-L. It also has a narrowband signal output that I'm using connected to the ECU in place of the factory sensor signal for closed loop operation.

I mounted it here with my trans temp gauge:

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Misc/Wideband_zpsed1d1b58.jpg

I welded a bung into the exhaust ~400mm before the cat - where the extractors form a single pipe. I'll use the same location for the turbo.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Misc/Sensor_zpsb46a4aea.jpg


One of my biggest concerns is detonation. There's no doubt that this has been the cause of most TB45E turbo issues with connecting rods.
Sure, you can strip your engine and beef it all up with stronger components. It's all a question of how far you want to go with it power wise and how much money you want to throw at it.
This is a thread about a low boost budget install so it's going to be using stock internals and we're going to do our best to keep that engine safe by other means..

Enter the visual knock detection device. These are sold on Ebay by a guy in Lithuania who makes them himself. They have good write-ups and my friend Jose in Panama confirms they work well with the TB45E factory knock sensor.
They will show a green LED when all's good and progressive orange LEDs when knock begins then a bigger really bright red LED when knock occurs.
I plan to use it as a visual aid i.e. have it more or less in line of sight so I can lift off when required.

I paid $20 extra to get the 5v output signal with it so if it indicates regular knocking, I'll log it to see why and when it's happening and adjust the Xede accordingly.

This is the size compared to my phone:

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Misc/IMG_0888_zps906e573d.jpg

[Alitis007]

It would still be a good idea to utilise a restriction orifice. By supplying only just as much oil as is needed, you reduce bearing windage and thus experience significantly improved spool speeds. By all means -3AN is better than -4AN, but I imagine the bearings are seeing too much volume AND pressure than is required by some excess. It also reduces the risk blowing oil through the seals if a pressure spike is seen for whatever reason (i.e. cold start, new heavier oil, over-rev...).

I hear what your saying , i thought what i was told sounded logical which put simply was the small ID of the -3an braid is a restriction in itself, once the oil reaches the bearings case of the turbo it will loose a significant amount of pressure and unless the oil drain blocks up it shouldn't pressurize the bearing case. With the 1mm restrictor the oil will loose its pressure after the restrictor into the -4an braid, if there isn't a natural downward slope in the braid you would potentially be starving the bearings of oil which is not only for lubricating them but also to help assist with cooling aswell. Like i said thats my take on what i was told and coz it made sense i didn't question it, i could be wrong and happy to be corrected by the more knowledgable :)

Sorry for the hijack

[jff45]

The restrictor screws directly into the CHRA.
There should be full pressure in the braided hose until it gets to the restrictor.

On the GT35R, the oil feed orifice itself (i.e. where the restrictor screws in) would be no bigger than 3/16" (-3AN) anyway.

In one of the pics I posted this morning where there's a closeup showing the 2 black -4AN elbows, the bright silver union with the copper washer is the actual restrictor. It's a -4AN cone with a 1mm hole in it.

[Alitis007]

Ok sorry my mistake, i thought it went into the block not the turbo

[jff45]

If you need to go to bigger injectors, most of the Nissan side feed models will fit i.e. they go into the TB45E fuel rail and the O-rings, although thicker, will seal in the TB45E cups.
One difference I've noticed is that the bigger injectors have a 3mm plastic border (as shown in the pic here) that doesn't fit inside the TB45E cup so the metal cap can be overtightened if you're not careful.

The solution I used was to fit 5mm nuts in the space - 2nd pic

370cc injector from a RB25DET Skyline on the left. Standard TB45E injector on the right.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Misc/IMG_0903_zpsd4f68b93.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Misc/IMG_0907_zpsd71ed6fa.jpg


I found 6 of these 370cc injectors on Gumtree for $30 including the Skyline fuel rail.
As the local auto elec wanted $35 each to clean them, I set them up in the original fuel rail and ran pressurised kerosene through them. Spray pattern was good on each of them.
I've since removed them so I can first test if the original injectors really need to be replaced with the low boost.

[jff45]

The restrictor screws directly into the CHRA.
There should be full pressure in the braided hose until it gets to the restrictor.

On the GT35R, the oil feed orifice itself (i.e. where the restrictor screws in) would be no bigger than 3/16" (-3AN) anyway.

In one of the pics I posted this morning where there's a closeup showing the 2 black -4AN elbows, the bright silver union with the copper washer is the actual restrictor. It's a -4AN cone with a 1mm hole in it.

Replying to my own post because I came across a pic of the restrictor I bought while I was searching for something else so thought I'd add it to the documentation..

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/IMG_1587_zpsab674002.png

[BigRAWesty]

Great build mate and very informative.
I think even at. 3 bar you will have a good increase.. Sure it won't burn rubber of 35's but will be nice.
I hope to do my td42 soon.
I'll be stealing your intercooler frame idea for sure ;-)

[Dampies]

Jff45.
You are a legend.
For a guy thats 68 you really know whats going.
Thanks for all your posts as I am following it from the Beginning .
All this pics and info answered all my questions and doubt that I had to go to a turbo.
You convinced me To do the same.

I have a few questions.
Do you really need to replace the injectors?
And can you please give me the place that you bought the manifold from contact details. Email address if you have it.

And thanks again.
I want to run 0.3 as well.

[Drewboyaus]

^^x2 what he said!
Great thread mate. I've been thinking about running a low pressure turbo on the old TB42e in mine and has really got me thinking about how I'd go about it.

Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner

[jff45]

I have a few questions.
Do you really need to replace the injectors?
And can you please give me the place that you bought the manifold from contact details. Email address if you have it.


I found the manifold fabricator on Ebay. His name is Keed80 but I don't know if he's still active. He was making TD42T manifold copies but I wanted the T3 flange more in the centre to allow more room for the dump - especially with the TI model with the extra A/C lines going to the rear.
He's an awful communicator but an excellent welder.

My research suggests that the factory 270cc injectors should be adequate for up to ~6 psi boost.
The advantage of keeping them is better idling and better closed loop running which is where the engine will spend most of its time.
The danger is leaning out if you get too close to their limits which could happen if you run into over boost or boost creep issues.

Once I get mine running, I'll do some tests swapping in the 370cc injectors to see how much the ECU can alter its fuel trims to cope and how much I'll need to scale them back with the Xede adjustments.

[jff45]

As I mentioned at the start of this thread, I'm running an auto trans with this project and I added a Davies Craig cooler for the trans fluid.
This involved relocating one half of the power steering cooler from the right to the left side and I thought it might be of interest to others how cheaply this can be done.

For those using a manual box, this might also be a handy mod if they want to mount a radiator for a W2A IC.

This is the standard layout on a TB45E..

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Trans%20cooler/IMG_0918_zpsb0d9b171.jpg

..and this is what we want to achieve:

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Trans%20cooler/IMG_0929_zps2e238350.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Trans%20cooler/IMG_0927_zps1078f431.jpg


These are aluminium tubes and I have nothing to weld them.. and they are probably too thin for the average amateur to attempt to weld anyway.

As luck would have it, the tubes are just the right size for these 1/2 brass plumbing elbows with the nylon olives..

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Trans%20cooler/IMG_0922_zps5fdcb5fc.jpg


You just need to be able to silver solder a short length of copper tube with 2 copper elbows to join this part here:

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Trans%20cooler/IMG_0923_zps96839e2f.jpg


I decided to retain the original trans cooler and connect it in series with the new Davies Craig. I had to move the original ~25mm forward.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Trans%20cooler/IMG_0935_zpsc901ae86.jpg


This is the finished mod. I've been running it now for over 6 months and not the slightest sign of an issue.
There's very little pressure there anyway.
From memory, cost of the brass elbows for this mod was <$15..

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Trans%20cooler/IMG_0936_zps472eb17b.jpg


This is the cooler I used. Bought from Ebay.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Trans%20cooler/IMG_0939_zps6ed270c3.jpg


The highest temp reading I've seen since is 80C. Before the extra cooler I could get it to ~105C so a turbo installation definitely needs this mod.
Standard temp on the highway with the TC locked is between 60 & 70C which is almost a little too cool.

I'm also planning on removing the cooling pipes that run through the radiator.
There has been more than one report of failure of these pipes resulting in mixing of trans fluid and coolant in both the trans and the engine.

[jff45]

This is a pic I received from a friend in WA who has also done a TB45E turbo install.
He started with the AXT turbo kit.

This is just to show his Frozen Boost water to air IC installation. He also chose the Millweld airbox.
Nice but both options were outside my budget :)

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Shanes/IMG_1610_zps3ea1e26e.jpg

[Dales300exc]

What are the millweld boxes like in terms or flow capability?

[jff45]

What are the millweld boxes like in terms or flow capability?

No idea. That's a pic from a friend..

I know of another TB45E turbo install in Melbourne who swapped his Millweld out for the big PatrolDocta that has the snorkel coming through the bonnet and says it goes better..

[Dales300exc]

Yes thats good enough for me then. Ill not put it in the decision list haha.

Back on track though, your work looks superb and very well thought out. I like it very much!

[billyj]

great work mate, a low boost turbo makes a big improvement to the nissan tb engines, im running 4psi into my tb42e using an axt kit and with out intercooling and a restrictive exhaust it made 100rwkw on 33"s about 25% more than a na motor would. the power/torque also comes on so much earlier and is much more useable

[jff45]

Just thought I'd add some pics of fittings on the turbo. I initially used an adapter for the oil feed with the 1mm restrictor (as shown a bit earlier) but I was never really happy with the number of connectors needed to guide the feed line in.

This is what I mean - there's the adapter/restrictor then a F to F -4AN elbow (couldn't find F to M) then a M to M union to be able to fit the elbow from the feed line.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Turbo%20fittings/IMG_1622_zpse9eb509a.png


Then I found this the other day.. a banjo fitting with the 1mm restrictor in the banjo bolt and a -4AN inlet.
This is also a much lower profile and allows a lot better access to one of the T3 flange nuts. With the previous connectors, I had to clock the turbo a couple of degrees more to make sure I could get a socket onto the flange nut.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Turbo%20fittings/IMG_1628_zpsc698ad07.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Turbo%20fittings/IMG_1632_zps0f942a75.jpg


Here's a pic of how all the fittings should be as seen from the block side. The oil feed is much neater now. The water cooling will be also be banjo fittings with -6AN cones (also from Kinugawa) and the oil drain is -10AN.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/JFF45/Turbo%20install/Turbo%20fittings/IMG_1642_zps7897ce8f.jpg


I've seen installations where rubber hoses have been used for both the water cooling and the oil drain but the teflon braided hoses and fittings are not a lot more expensive if you source them from Ebay and make them yourself.
They certainly look a lot better..

[Dampies]

Did you finish the project or not yet?
Just keen for an update mate.
Haha

[jff45]

Did you finish the project or not yet?
Just keen for an update mate.
Haha

No, not yet.. I got involved in removing some big trees that were too close to the house and we decided to keep all the wood so I've bought a used log splitter that I've had to work on and it's all given me a fair bit of chainsaw work to do.
I'm having to use the Patrol to cart top branches to the dump with my trailer.

I'll need to put it off the road for a good week because I also have a front seal to do as well.
Also have to make my own exhaust from turbo to cat.

I'll update with pics as soon as I get back into it..

[v502]

Cant wait to see that thing roll.

[jff45]

It probably won't be up and running before the New Year.

I've now decided to rebuild my spare trans with a Q45 rebuild kit (extra friction & drive plates) and a Nomad valve body so I'll have a trans that will take the extra grunt.

[threedogs]

I've seen a few of these 4.5 and 4.8 turbo's in action
you'll certainly silence a few Hoon rice burners lol
No Badges we dont need no stinkin badges BBWWHHhhhhaaaaaa

[jff45]

Hmm, I have my 69th birthday coming up in a couple of weeks.
At this point in my life, silencing hoon ricers is not real high on the agenda.. :)

[scottmeister]

As the old saying goes; do it once, do it right!

[jff45]

As the old saying goes; do it once, do it right!

I'll take this opportunity to acknowledge all the invaluable assistance you've given me while I've been doing this build..

[Nicki & Chris]

Wonderful work !!!:bowdown:

[jff45]

Wonderful work !!!:bowdown:

Merci Christophe! J'essaie de faire du travail Suisse :)
T'as vu l'ecusson de Genève sur le pare-choc avant?

[Nicki & Chris]

Merci Christophe! J'essaie de faire du travail Suisse :)
T'as vu l'ecusson de Genève sur le pare-choc avant?

Maintenant oui !!! Je confirme l'horlogerie Suisse a trouvé son maître en mécanique :clapping:
En Février,nous faisons la côte Ouest, c'est dommage, je serai bien passé voir cette horloge ...

Now yes !!! I'll confirm watchmaking Switzerland found his master in mechanical ...
I'll be come to see this clock.

[dakka1]

do you have a picture of your airbox setup and afm location please mate

[jff45]

do you have a picture of your airbox setup and afm location please mate

If you go back and read the thread from the start, it's in post #1..

[Dampies]

Hi. .

Can you please add a photo how you plumed the fuel pressure regulator up please. I can only see on the above photos how its fitted. I want to do it but dont know the correct way.

Thank you.

[jff45]

Hi. .

Can you please add a photo how you plumed the fuel pressure regulator up please. I can only see on the above photos how its fitted. I want to do it but dont know the correct way.

Thank you.

It's simply plumbed into the return hose of the original regulator i.e. the original regulator is still in place.
I did braze up an adaptor to replace the regulator using an old regulator that I cut the flange off but haven't fitted it yet.

[jff45]

Here's a pic I took this morning..

[tallman]

Anymore progress here??

[jff45]

Anymore progress here??

I finally decided to go with the turbo diesel option..

[threedogs]

I finally decided to go with the turbo diesel option..

With so many diesel turbo options Which combo have you decided on Nissan 4.2 TD????
Chev or Dura-max?

[jff45]

With so many diesel turbo options Which combo have you decided on Nissan 4.2 TD????
Chev or Dura-max?

See my signature.. :)

[Dampies]

Do you still have all your 4.5 turbo stuff?
And if you do, do you maybe wanna sell it?
Cheers

[jff45]

Do you still have all your 4.5 turbo stuff?
And if you do, do you maybe wanna sell it?
Cheers

I plan on using the manifold, the intercooler (cheap off Ebay anyway) and the cradle I welded up for the intercooler for the TD42 engine if it fits. All the rest will be for sale but I haven't had time to take pics of it all together.
The Xede is still wired into the ECU but that's easy to disconnect.

A quick list off the top of my head:
The GT3540 turbo which is clocked for a 45 degree low mount manifold (pics are in this thread) and has 3" dump for that angle.
New billet Kinugawa wastegate actuator set at 0.3 bar. Have spare original spring, can't remember pressure..
All new GT35 specific oil & water fittings, including Garrett oil restrictor for oil feed, for braided teflon hoses.
Homemade IC pipe from IC to throttle body including the silicone elbow(as shown also in this thread)
BOV & pipe to turbo inlet
Adjustable fuel pressure regulator with fittings - has spare diaphragm.
Knock indicator.
Innovate MTX-L wideband gauge complete with wiring and sensor
Chiptorque Xede piggyback ECU currently loaded with TB45E timing profile. Tuning software is free for the Xede. I can supply a copy and am happy to help with any questions.

I might have forgotten a couple of things like silicone bends, etc. If they don't fit my TD42 installation, I'll throw them in.

Edit: See, I did forget something. I also have 6 x 370cc RB25 injectors. They have been cleaned and I've fitted new pintle caps.
Also have 2 new T piece adapters to plumb the water cooling into the heater hoses.
Have a new Bosch inline fuel pump as well..
There's also the adapter I made to move the IACV valve to make room for the IC above the throttle body.

[jff45]

As I decided not to continue with this project, I have most of the turbo install gear for sale.

This is a bit of a repeat of the previous post..

Garrett GT35/40 (3582R) turbo from a BA XR6. Sold to me as having done 80,000 kms but obviously can't be proved.
It has a new Kinugawa wastgate actuator with 0.3 bar spring. It is clocked for a 45* low mount manifold and the 3" dump was made for that angle.
It has all stainless water & oil fittings for -AN unions including 2 oil restrictors.
New dump pipe gasket & inline oil strainer.
I have a video of this turbo being spun up with compressed air.

Chiptorque Xede piggyback processor. I have been using this with my TB45E engine. It has the timing profile for TB45E installed and has the wiring added for switching dual tuning maps. I also added an external red/green LED to indicate status.
It currently has a tuning map for TB45E with extractors & 2.5" exhaust.
I have all wiring & connection instructions and the Xmap tuning software is free.

Innovate Motorsports MTX-L wideband gauge & sensor. Will need a weld-in bung for the sensor.

6 x NIssan Skyline RB25 DET 370cc injectors. They have been cleaned and I've fitted new pintle caps.

Adjustable rising rate fuel pressure regulator with pressure gauge. With spare new membrane.

New Bosch inline electric fuel pump.

Electronic knock detection device. Has bright visual indication if knock occurs. Has 5v output option. New, never used. Connects to original TB knock sensor.

BOV (blow off valve) with 25mm hose connections.

I have the custom intake pipe I made with silicone elbow for the TB throttle body but it would only be useful if using the same Ebay intercooler as shown in this thread.

Most of what I've listed here will be in the pics in this thread.

$1000 for the lot. That's the price of a new Xede today..

[jff45]

All the above turbo gear has now been sold.

[threedogs]

Good read , sort of a shame it never eventuated.
Any teething probs with the TD4.2? cooling?

[jff45]

Cheers, 3D. It didn't eventuate because I had to give myself a reality check. Driving a turbo'ed 4.5 around the country with a couple of tons on the back would have resulted in a horrendous fuel bill.

The TD42T goes really well with the auto. It's a much more "unhurried" feeling driving it compared to the 4.5 which had to be given a bit more boot to get up in the revs before it would start to pull properly.

No heating issues at all. Big Ebay alloy radiator with new genuine water pump. Put in a new Tridon 77* thermostat and 50% Nulon coolant. Doesn't get over 80 city or highway.
I've only done 150 kms with it and haven't seen the fuel gauge move yet.

Need to get it tuned now.

[threedogs]

with that oil line into the sump all the shops Ive seen do it, use a big centre punch Whack then use a 3/4 tap and tap a thread.
Never had a problem but a bit rough imo

[jff45]

with that oil line into the sump all the shops Ive seen do it, use a big centre punch Whack then use a 3/4 tap and tap a thread.
Never had a problem but a bit rough imo

What was this in reply to? I don't have any hole punched into the sump, it's a TD42T factory turbo with the oil return cast in the block.