Jay see 1997 GU build up

[jay see]

Looking at getting a few things done. Have been told two different things about a dual battery system.
One says go with the solenoid and the other BC/ DC.
Explanation I got for the solenoid system is that the alternator isn't a temperature related one and the BC/DC isn't required and a good few hundred cheaper.
So is the solenoid system still good enough? I think it is, haven't heard anything bad about them....
Thoughts.

[Winnie]

I use a solenoid type Redarc dual battery system. It's simple and easy. I like it.

[jay see]

I use a solenoid type Redarc dual battery system. It's simple and easy. I like it.
That's what I want. Simple just like me.
Thanks
Everything same same, only difference was between the dual battery system.
Difference is $650.

[lucus30]

That's what I want. Simple just like me.
Thanks
Everything same same, only difference was between the dual battery system.
Difference is $650.
Yeah mate just go a VSR

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[sooty_10]

That's what I want. Simple just like me.
Thanks
Everything same same, only difference was between the dual battery system.
Difference is $650.
Dcdc are only really advantageous if you have significant voltage drop from the alternator eg. Running a battery bank in camper trailer. Or if your alternator is a silly modern low voltage type unit. Otherwise the VSR system will work everytime.

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[mudski]

Dcdc are only really advantageous if you have significant voltage drop from the alternator eg. Running a battery bank in camper trailer. Or if your alternator is a silly modern low voltage type unit. Otherwise the VSR system will work everytime.

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I was understanding that VSR's cant charge to capacity. Where a dcdc can.
Anyway i use a Ctek250 as i have a solar panel on the roof and it has a built in solar thingo....lol

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[lucus30]

I was understanding that VSR's cant charge to capacity. Where a dcdc can.
Anyway i use a Ctek250 as i have a solar panel on the roof and it has a built in solar thingo....lol

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Don't get too techincal.... Thingos are mind boggling ha ha

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[sooty_10]

I was understanding that VSR's cant charge to capacity. Where a dcdc can.
Anyway i use a Ctek250 as i have a solar panel on the roof and it has a built in solar thingo....lol

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A bit of advertising bollocks really.

An alternator is maybe not as efficient for that last 10% but it gets the job done 99% of the time. And does a faster job for bulk charging large drains than any dcdc generally does, which means your more likely to be closer to fully charged after shorter drives.

Dcdc isn't required if only charging a simple 4x4 dual battery system (unless low voltage alternator). They were designed for larger battery banks and longer cable runs etc, add some misinformation from sales people and apparently alternators are no longer sufficient $$$$.

For typical battery maintenance giving it a good charge from a bench charger every 6 months or so to give it a health check up is good enough. I run dual yellowtop optimas (both under bonnet) through a simple piranha vsr and have done for nearly 10 years (rarely bench charged). Never had an issue charging them up via alternator.

Now incorporating solar is another story. I use an independent solar controller, a victron 75/15. Works a charm and can be had cheaper with a redarc vsr than compared to the dcdc/solar systems.

Basically my advice is to keep it as simple as possible and if it works for your needs your onto a winner.

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[jay see]

Cheers guys.
The explanation that sooty gave is pretty much the one that I got.

So I will booking it in for a dual battery system, long range sub tank, fitment of my reduction gears and confirmation of a leaking rear main seal, if it is it's getting fixed too.


No luck on the spare.
Think I might have to go the three studs with a lock nut.

[mudski]

No luck on the spare.
Think I might have to go the three studs with a lock nut.

Or change to the steel bracket like mine. And I think James changed his also not long ago as it broke or something... Plenty of wreckers would have them.

[threedogs]

I use a solenoid type Redarc dual battery system. It's simple and easy. I like it.

KISS,,,,,, aust made as well,,,, mines been in now 6 odd years with no dramas at all,
Highly recommend

[sooty_10]

Or change to the steel bracket like mine. And I think James changed his also not long ago as it broke or something... Plenty of wreckers would have them.
Yep my moulded plastic one was cracked. Picked up a steel one for $30 from readies 4x4. Much better imo.

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[Bacho86]

Or change to the steel bracket like mine. And I think James changed his also not long ago as it broke or something... Plenty of wreckers would have them.

Yeh i rekon that'd be easier too. I've got mine padlocked up the same as Mudski

Didn't realise you had a different factory mount for the spare tyre

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/11/89.jpg


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[mudski]

KISS,,,,,, aust made as well,,,, mines been in now 6 odd years with no dramas at all,
Highly recommend
John boy! Good to see ya back bud!

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[threedogs]

John boy! Good to see ya back bud!

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Nearly back , but thanks was gettng withdrawals lol
As for locking the spare on the rear door Ive never heard of anyone getting their spare nicked ever
Is this a new thing, my spare is not worth nicking, its a BFG A/t about 30% tread left, then again Ive never brought 5 new tyres
IMHO the spare is just that a spare to put on till you can get the other repaired.
My spare is inside anyway lol

[jay see]

Or change to the steel bracket like mine. And I think James changed his also not long ago as it broke or something... Plenty of wreckers would have them.
Yeah, think is the the best bet.

Yep my moulded plastic one was cracked. Picked up a steel one for $30 from readies 4x4. Much better imo.

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Cheers James will see what their got.

Yeh i rekon that'd be easier too. I've got mine padlocked up the same as Mudski

Didn't realise you had a different factory mount for the spare tyre

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/11/89.jpg


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I didn't know that there was two different types, but mine is an early series 1.

Nearly back , but thanks was gettng withdrawals lol
As for locking the spare on the rear door Ive never heard of anyone getting their spare nicked ever
Is this a new thing, my spare is not worth nicking, its a BFG A/t about 30% tread left, then again Ive never brought 5 new tyres
IMHO the spare is just that a spare to put on till you can get the other repaired.
My spare is inside anyway lol
I want to do a 5 wheel rotation.
The spare is out in the weather for years. Can't be doing the rubber any good and yes they do go missing.

[jay see]

John boy! Good to see ya back bud!

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You stopped glowing yet..

[mudski]

You stopped glowing yet..
Eh!?

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[jay see]

Eh!?

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Got a text from him the other day regarding some tests.

[jay see]

OK so I'm booked in for a few things, next I'll be looking at is a fridge. I know that you can't go pass a Engel, but I'm not going to spend that much on something that I'm going to use a handful of times per year.

Looking at something between 40-60 litres.
Came across this.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/191501362666

Reviews look pretty good.
Thoughts or recommendations.

Who's got the kings, repco, spinafix or anything else around that $$$ mark.

[mudski]

For whats its worth John, I'd spend $600 on a second hand Engel or ARB fridge. I paid $600 for my ARB 47L fridge, and it came with an insulated transit bag. My 75L Engel I bought second hand, but it was brand new, the box had not even been opened. I managed to score this for about $500 under the going shop price. I did have a 29L Engel too which I sold for $400, and that was 20 years old!
I did see on FB a Kings fridge that caught fire, I can't comment on the other two. Waeco's are supposed to be quite good too.
Current draw is an important factor too, and their specs on how cold it can go below ambient temps etc etc. You really want an insulated cover for these things too, it get bloody hot in the back of these Patrols. I've blacked out the side windows and will be retinting the two rears to as dark as possible just to help.

[BigRAWesty]

I second mudski with this one..
Imo much better off buying a good second hand unit than a new ebay special.
And another +1 on the insulated covers. Definitely keeps the temps lower for longer.. which means less power used..

[lucus30]

Hey mate if you want a cheap fridge that I've personally used have a look at the techniice or the evakool travel mates

I personally wouldn't pay Engel tax but I probably would Shell out for one of the ARBs as I think they are great kit.

Also the aldi fridges are rebadged Primus fridges and I've heard they are ok



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[mudski]

Hey mate if you want a cheap fridge that I've personally used have a look at the techniice or the evakool travel mates

I personally wouldn't pay Engel tax but I probably would Shell out for one of the ARBs as I think they are great kit.

Also the aldi fridges are rebadged Primus fridges and I've heard they are ok



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I can tell you this since owning both ARB and Engel. The Engel is better than the ARB in almost every aspect. Quieter, cools a ship load faster and just made better. Stronger construction....
Im no way saying the ARB isn't good either.
Just my thoughts.

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[lucus30]

I can tell you this since owning both ARB and Engel. The Engel is better than the ARB in almost every aspect. Quieter, cools a ship load faster and just made better. Stronger construction....
Im no way saying the ARB isn't good either.
Just my thoughts.

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Yeah my viewpoint was more about the form factor that I like about the ARB. Lid design etc

Having said that I wouldn't pay full price for one

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[mudski]

Yeah my viewpoint was more about the form factor that I like about the ARB. Lid design etc

Having said that I wouldn't pay full price for one

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Yeah thats a good point. The way to unlock, open and lock again on this fridge is real good. Very easy for a nub like me.

[lucus30]

Yeah thats a good point. The way to unlock, open and lock again on this fridge is real good. Very easy for a nub like me.
Yup great design me thinks

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[jay see]

Thanks guys.

I've had an aldi 3 way for almost ten years and never had a problem with it works well.

I hear what you're saying Mark. I'm not in a huge rush so I will decide on exactly what size I want (1 mid-largish or 2 smallish)and be ready to pounce when and if one comes up.

With Xmas coming up I'll keep an eye on the sales and if it's good enough may consider what's available.

Had a quick look at draws+ slides.😢

[threedogs]

FWIW I installed one of the computer fans to my engel ,,,later models with this feature were called turboed
My 40ltr has been going no stop basically well over 16 years its been off a few years now, as the Patrol is parked
till I can figure out how to fix it.
And 2nd hand engel would suit your needs highly recommend Engel,,,Waceo need very good connections

[lucus30]

Thanks guys.

I've had an aldi 3 way for almost ten years and never had a problem with it works well.

I hear what you're saying Mark. I'm not in a huge rush so I will decide on exactly what size I want (1 mid-largish or 2 smallish)and be ready to pounce when and if one comes up.

With Xmas coming up I'll keep an eye on the sales and if it's good enough may consider what's available.

Had a quick look at draws+ slides.😢
3-way fridges have got nothing on compressor fridges you'll love them

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[sooty_10]

Definitely pick up a second hand engel or waeco fairly reasonably priced. I'm always on the lookout for a 60l engel for the right price in vic so they are a bit less common but a 40l usually pops up.

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[mudski]

Thanks guys.

I've had an aldi 3 way for almost ten years and never had a problem with it works well.

I hear what you're saying Mark. I'm not in a huge rush so I will decide on exactly what size I want (1 mid-largish or 2 smallish)and be ready to pounce when and if one comes up.

With Xmas coming up I'll keep an eye on the sales and if it's good enough may consider what's available.

Had a quick look at draws+ slides.😢

John if you want to have a gander at my setup you are welcome to bud, just to help you with idea's and stuff... Yeah the drop down slide was exy but I tell you, so bloody good! And those Titan draws are just getting cheaper. All I need is a drop down table on the door and mine is done.

[jay see]

John if you want to have a gander at my setup you are welcome to bud, just to help you with idea's and stuff... Yeah the drop down slide was exy but I tell you, so bloody good! And those Titan draws are just getting cheaper. All I need is a drop down table on the door and mine is done.
Cheers Mark appreciate it.

We are spoiled for choice here.
Went into rays and anaconda today to have a look see and a bit of a play with their fridges. Have always walked right pass them, as I wasn't going to buy one.

Out of the Engel and the Waeco I like the Engel, really liked the way the seal sits and the overall look if it. Still would like to go and see the arb ones too.

From what I've read it does take a bit of playing around to get the balance right for frozen foods and fridge food. Then there's the dual zone ones....

The battery is going in the back and I don't really want to have it on top of the draws. I do want to do it once and I also want to do it properly, all within a reasonable budget.

Mark I've got a light work week next week, so I might pop over..

[mudski]

Cheers Mark appreciate it.

We are spoiled for choice here.
Went into rays and anaconda today to have a look see and a bit of a play with their fridges. Have always walked right pass them, as I wasn't going to buy one.

Out of the Engel and the Waeco I like the Engel, really liked the way the seal sits and the overall look if it. Still would like to go and see the arb ones too.

From what I've read it does take a bit of playing around to get the balance right for frozen foods and fridge food. Then there's the dual zone ones....

The battery is going in the back and I don't really want to have it on top of the draws. I do want to do it once and I also want to do it properly, all within a reasonable budget.

Mark I've got a light work week next week, so I might pop over..

My 75L is a dual zone. Keeps frozen food frozen, we even keep icy poles in there. The ARB has just as wire separator. Best thing to do is keep all your frozen stuff together in one section and just the colds in another. The frozen food will stay frozen if the fridge is cold enough. I keep my ARB set at -3c. The beers 'wont freeze but they are super cold. The 75L Engel I usually make sure its sits at around neg 8c atleast.
Keep them full too. They work better. I use 2Ltr juice bottles frozen, to fill any voids in the fridge, then you have extra water if you ever need it too.
In my opinion, even a cheap fridge is still a lot of money, so I think its better to go second hand on a decent brand. Engel, Waeco, ARB etc etc.
Seen Weaco's latest? 95L, two actual separate fridges in one. That would be the perfect fridge for big trips. If you had the room.

You got my number mate. Give me a ring to T up a time.

[jay see]

Titan draws for $369.
That plus the drop and it could be a goer.
How far do the draws go, is there room for a battery box behind the seat?

Alot if reading over the weekend re fridges and looks like that waeco has stepped up with the cfx range, where as Engel are now made in Thailand...

[mudski]

Titan draws for $369.
That plus the drop and it could be a goer.
How far do the draws go, is there room for a battery box behind the seat?

Alot if reading over the weekend re fridges and looks like that waeco has stepped up with the cfx range, where as Engel are now made in Thailand...
Thats bloody cheap. I paid $700 last January.
You wont have any room for a battery behind the draws and rear seat. Theres just enough room for the barrier.

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[mudski]

Waeco and Engel are both great fridges. It would be hard to choose but i cant really say much about the Waeco as ive never owned one, but i do hear they are good fridges.
I did read a write up on the two fridges somewhere. In a nut shell it said one had a better, more efficient compressor but the insulation wasn't as good as the other and vice versa. So it was pretty much a 50/50 split.

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[jay see]

Thats bloody cheap. I paid $700 last January.
You wont have any room for a battery behind the draws and rear seat. Theres just enough room for the barrier.

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Yeah that's my thinking. With around $1100 I'll have both the draws and drop slide. Won't be able to buy a draw set how I want with that kind of $$$.

Waeco and Engel are both great fridges. It would be hard to choose but i cant really say much about the Waeco as ive never owned one, but i do hear they are good fridges.
I did read a write up on the two fridges somewhere. In a nut shell it said one had a better, more efficient compressor but the insulation wasn't as good as the other and vice versa. So it was pretty much a 50/50 split.

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That's pretty much everything that I've read.
It going to be between the Engel 57l combi or the cfx65dz. Hopefully I can score one for $800 or less.

[Plasnart]

My 75L is a dual zone. Keeps frozen food frozen, we even keep icy poles in there. The ARB has just as wire separator. Best thing to do is keep all your frozen stuff together in one section and just the colds in another. The frozen food will stay frozen if the fridge is cold enough. I keep my ARB set at -3c. The beers 'wont freeze but they are super cold. The 75L Engel I usually make sure its sits at around neg 8c atleast.
Keep them full too. They work better. I use 2Ltr juice bottles frozen, to fill any voids in the fridge, then you have extra water if you ever need it too.
In my opinion, even a cheap fridge is still a lot of money, so I think its better to go second hand on a decent brand. Engel, Waeco, ARB etc etc.
Seen Weaco's latest? 95L, two actual separate fridges in one. That would be the perfect fridge for big trips. If you had the room.

You got my number mate. Give me a ring to T up a time.

Agree you can have frozen and refrigerated items in the same compartment. Pre-freeze things you want frozen then when you load the fridge, set it at 0deg. The frozen stuff stays frozen but the stuff you only want cold doesn't freeze. Have packed 60 dinners (20 vac sealed flatpacks each feeding 3 guys) in my 40L engel for outback trips but takes forward preparation. I prefer this method and keeping fridge size smaller than buying a dual-zone fridge but that's just me.

[Plasnart]

Waeco and Engel are both great fridges. It would be hard to choose but i cant really say much about the Waeco as ive never owned one, but i do hear they are good fridges.
I did read a write up on the two fridges somewhere. In a nut shell it said one had a better, more efficient compressor but the insulation wasn't as good as the other and vice versa. So it was pretty much a 50/50 split.

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haha typical 4x4 mag! Can't upset the advertisers, but can sit on the fence on nearly all comparos and never enlighten those who fork out for the magazine.

[Mike02Ti]

Correct me if im wrong but dont both the Engel and Waeco both use a danfoss compressor now? Whereas before i think only Engel did

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[jay see]

..............

[jay see]

Correct me if im wrong but dont both the Engel and Waeco both use a danfoss compressor now? Whereas before i think only Engel did

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Nah, mate.
No expert here, but being doing some (alot) reading and the Engel uses a sawafigi (Japan) and waeco used to use the danfoss, but now it's there own brand which is the danfoss assembled in China.
I think .

[mudski]

Nah, mate.
No expert here, but being doing some (alot) reading and the Engel uses a sawafigi (Japan) and waeco used to use the danfoss, but now it's there own brand which is the danfoss assembled in China.
I think .

Yes correct. The Sawafuji is a piston type compressor and the danfoss in a, rotational type?, compressor. If thats what you call it. Without googling it I think thats the differences between the two. I will say, the ARB fridge is almost dead silent, all I can hear is the fan running, where as the Engel I can clearly hear the compressor.

[BigRAWesty]

Yes correct. The Sawafuji is a piston type compressor and the danfoss in a, rotational type?, compressor. If thats what you call it. Without googling it I think thats the differences between the two. I will say, the ARB fridge is almost dead silent, all I can hear is the fan running, where as the Engel I can clearly hear the compressor.
Both are piston style compressors.
I'm actually not sure if ac systems use anything but piston.
Similar to your car ac compressor.
It's an off set (slanted) disc that drives pistons to compress the air..

Come to think of it I think that's how deisel pumps work on our engines..

Your right about the 2 being on even par..
The weaco is silent as, but does use a little more power to drive the pump.
The Engle is a bit louder but a bit less current draw..

Those insulation covers help a lot imo..
Worth the little extra coin.

[jay see]

Need some confirmation on installing the Albright solenoid.
There's different images online on how to install. One was like this.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/11/236.jpg
The other was with the yellow swapped over with the black.
Which way is correct.

Also the thin wire coming off the bottom of the winch motor, where dies that go.

Thanks in advance.

[jay see]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/11/237.jpg

This is exactly how I've wired it up and nothing...... What have I done wrong?

Electrical is not for me....

[Ben-e-boy]

How have you wired your switch?

[jay see]

Yes. Wired handheld
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/11/238.jpg
I cut off the original plugs and replaced with longer bladed ones.
Have tested and has power.
The twisted red wire is temporarily.

[Ben-e-boy]

Yes. Wired handheld
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/11/238.jpg
I cut off the original plugs and replaced with longer bladed ones.
Have tested and has power.
The twisted red wire is temporarily.
Why is there a temporary wire hanging off the earth.
This is how it should be wired. The pic you posted earlier with the power in and power out description on the coils is incorrect. Probably more misleading.

I dont understand why you have a temp cable hanging off the earth.

70036

[jay see]

Why is there a temporary wire hanging off the earth.
This is how it should be wired. The pic you posted earlier with the power in and power out description on the coils is incorrect. Probably more misleading.

I dont understand why you have a temp cable hanging off the earth.

70036
The temp wire is to get power for the switch? That's what I got from the pic.
You say that the earlier pic is incorrect re power in/out. How why?
What is the right way?
If it all worked I was going to slice that temp wire into the black wire.
If someone local has wired one in a bit of a look see would help here. sooty_10 can you share done light on this mate.

Edit.
Just noticed that you added a pic. I have seen this and will try to work it out using that.
Electrical is not for me, but I try.
Thanks Ben-e-boy

[jay see]

Where I'm stuck.
1.
3 wires coming out of the handheld. In, out and another
2..
Thin wire (earth I think) out if bottom if winch.

Might have to leave it for another day..

[lucus30]

Where I'm stuck.
1.
3 wires coming out of the handheld. In, out and another
2..
Thin wire (earth I think) out if bottom if winch.

Might have to leave it for another day..
If you didn't live miles away I'd say I'd pop around and give you a hand

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[Ben-e-boy]

Where I'm stuck.
1.
3 wires coming out of the handheld. In, out and another the "another" wire is power to the hand held switch
2..
Thin wire (earth I think) out if bottom if winch. that is earth. It is from the centre pin of the solenoid

Might have to leave it for another day..



....................

[jay see]

The power wire I ran to the centre blade, but the pic shows a neg to battery?the two in/and go the the + on the, do the wires get split, two to the terminals and then to the + ?
Can that earth be mounted anywhere there's metal.

I'm confused, and frustrated...
And my head hurts.

[jay see]

I'm going to join Clunk at the happy thread.

[jay see]

Thanks for the help Ben-e-boy

[Ben-e-boy]

The power wire I ran to the centre blade, but the pic shows a neg to battery? the two in/and go the the + on the, do the wires get split, two to the terminals and then to the +? where it 'splits' as you say is your hand held controller switch
Can that earth be mounted anywhere there's metal.you can mount the earth wire from the centre pin to the earth connection on the motor

I'm confused, and frustrated...
And my head hurts.

The diagram I posted is correct.

[jay see]

The diagram I posted is correct.
Thanks I'm going to use that one when I get back to it. It's only a couple of wires and I really should be able to do this.
I've packed it up for today.
This weekend wasn't very productive.
Tried to complete 2 jobs neither were successful.

Oh well the porks looking good at least.

[sooty_10]

John sorry haven't been much help. On Holidays and been out of phone reception camping..... I concur with ben-e-boys pic. The centre connector should be an earth connection. You can run the small earth wire on bottom of winch motor to any metal contact point anywhere or even run it to the middle solenoid connector then onto an earthing point from there, plenty of ways to skin that cat. The split in the power in/out in the diagram, as ben-e mentioned, is the in/out switch which you can mount in the dash somewhere for in-cab controls. I used a momentary double pole double throw (DPDT) toggle switch for mine. To wire it to your existing controller plug you need to figure out which wire in the plug corresponds. Eg. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/11/252.jpg

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[jay see]

John sorry haven't been much help. On Holidays and been out of phone reception camping..... I concur with ben-e-boys pic. The centre connector should be an earth connection. You can run the small earth wire on bottom of winch motor to any metal contact point anywhere or even run it to the middle solenoid connector then onto an earthing point from there, plenty of ways to skin that cat. The split in the power in/out in the diagram, as ben-e mentioned, is the in/out switch which you can mount in the dash somewhere for in-cab controls. I used a momentary double pole double throw (DPDT) toggle switch for mine. To wire it to your existing controller plug you need to figure out which wire in the plug corresponds. Eg. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/11/252.jpg

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No apologies mate.
Holidays and camping lucky bugger.

I'll sort it out, one way or another.

Thanks for the info, will take it onboard.

[mudski]

Please pardon my ignorance as like John, electricals are not my strong point.
Whats the advantage of this Albright solendoid? What can it do over say the solenoid thats on my current winch?.

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[sooty_10]

Please pardon my ignorance as like John, electricals are not my strong point.
Whats the advantage of this Albright solendoid? What can it do over say the solenoid thats on my current winch?.

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Depends on the solenoids you currently have. The albright are a great sealed low maintenance solenoid that is reliable. The old style warn 4 solenoid pack in mine were unreliable and it needed 2 for in and 2 for out. Only required 1 solenoid to be on the fritz and it was done. They were expensive to replace as well so upgrading to a newer style solenoid made sense.

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[Ben-e-boy]

Please pardon my ignorance as like John, electricals are not my strong point.
Whats the advantage of this Albright solendoid? What can it do over say the solenoid thats on my current winch?.

Sent from my GT-N7105T using Tapatalk

They are a solid state relay, they have no moving parts to fail, no contacts to pit or burn out. The down side to SSR's is they don't 'play up' as such. They work and then they don't.

[mudski]

Depends on the solenoids you currently have. The albright are a great sealed low maintenance solenoid that is reliable. The old style warn 4 solenoid pack in mine were unreliable and it needed 2 for in and 2 for out. Only required 1 solenoid to be on the fritz and it was done. They were expensive to replace as well so upgrading to a newer style solenoid made sense.

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They are a solid state relay, they have no moving parts to fail, no contacts to pit or burn out. The down side to SSR's is they don't 'play up' as such. They work and then they don't.

Thanks. Makes more sense now. So no use in me putting one on my winch since theres nothing wrong with what I have. Apart from severe lack of use this year.

[sooty_10]

Thanks. Makes more sense now. So no use in me putting one on my winch since theres nothing wrong with what I have. Apart from severe lack of use this year.
As long as you run your winch in and out occasionally and give it a once over or inspection once in a while to ensure it is all kosher for when you actually need it, all will be good.

Nothing worse then thinking ahh it should work and then actually get stuck and it doesn't or has issues. I usually go into the bush just behind my place and wind the rope out to a tree and then winch the truck up a small incline re-tensioning neatly the rope after each use or every couple of months. I got caught out a few times with the dodgy solenoids before so am a bit paranoid now. Haha

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[jay see]

There's some things I can do, some things I can't and then there's the ones if I fark up it's going to cost me time and money. I know my limits.

The light bulb came on re: the solenoid and I think the problem was, I was looking at Ben's pic wanting to wire it up to my handheld controller, not a separate switch as in that pic... I think.. Anyway sorted now.

The patrols in getting some goodies fitted and I got them to wire it up. Saves me blowing up a perfectly good solenoid or anything else for that matter.




Apart from severe lack of use this year.

May be able to get away for a few hours next weekend anyone keen?


I got caught out a few times with the dodgy solenoids before

Almost like me at Cobaw..

[mudski]

May be able to get away for a few hours next weekend anyone keen?



..

Depends on if our house sells this Saturday and we have bought another before then.

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[jay see]

Depends on if our house sells this Saturday and we have bought another before then.

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Of course it will.

Good luck.

[threedogs]

Thanks. Makes more sense now. So no use in me putting one on my winch since theres nothing wrong with what I have. Apart from severe lack of use this year.

sounds more water friendly as well, a good upgrade imo
What brand winch do you run??

[mudski]

sounds more water friendly as well, a good upgrade imo
What brand winch do you run??
Mines very water friendly. It never sees it. Apart from rain water. Lol.
Mine is an old TJM Ox.

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[jay see]

There's some things I can do, some things I can't and then there's the ones if I fark up it's going to cost me time and money. I know my limits.

The light bulb came on re: the solenoid and I think the problem was, I was looking at Ben's pic wanting to wire it up to my handheld controller, not a separate switch as in that pic... I think.. Anyway sorted now.

The patrols in getting some goodies fitted and I got them to wire it up. Saves me blowing up a perfectly good solenoid or anything else for that matter.

Ok.

Looks like my hand held was the problem all along.

Now that I now that my controller is no good and don't like the chances of finding one I need to run a in cab switch. I also want to have a push button near the winch on the bullbar to spool in/out while not in the car. If i'm going to do this, it might as well be pobably. Will move the solenoid to the engine bay.

I think I have gotten my head around Bens pic, That said I still have a few questions.

This the switch I'm going to use inside

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/231996221961?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&var=531189487811&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

This one on the bar

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/132005868457?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I've done a litte drawing of how i think it all goes, just not sure on 8 & 7.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/12/90.jpg

[lucus30]

You'll get a hand controller cheap on eBay if you want

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[jay see]

You'll get a hand controller cheap on eBay if you want

Sent from my E6653 using Tapatalk

Dosen't it need to match the winch?

I had a quick look the other day and didn't find one for a T max, besides the solenoid still needs to be wired up.

[lucus30]

Dosen't it need to match the winch?

I had a quick look the other day and didn't find one for a T max, besides the solenoid still needs to be wired up.
Your using a different solenoid so why would controller matter ?



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[Kimbo63]

Jay see think of it this way the switch you want to put in the cab is the same switch on the controller

[jay see]

Your using a different solenoid so why would controller matter ?



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IDk.

I'm ditching the whole hand held controller now.

[jay see]

Winch switch is worked out. Helps when you have a switch that works.:smiley_thumbs_up:
Now for another question. I going to run an isolator switch as well do I need to run either one through a relay?

[Ryanbaxwar]

its nice to see that color blue! if got the same but its a 98.. dont see to many of them anymore

[jay see]

its nice to see that color blue! if got the same but its a 98.. dont see to many of them anymore

Will look even better when I do the windows.

Yeah not many around.

[jay see]

Stage 1 of cargo area complete.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/01/121.jpg

[mudski]

Should have removed the rear seat belts John. How did you go fitting them. The rhs wing I had to modify to make it fit and now the lid is about 15mm too long. No biggie though....

[threedogs]

Just undo the bottom bolts on the seat belts and poke them through the top slot/hole.
What holds the battery box in place??

[jay see]

Should have removed the rear seat belts John. How did you go fitting them. The rhs wing I had to modify to make it fit and now the lid is about 15mm too long. No biggie though....
Yeah I know, but there not really in the way.
Fitting was pretty straight forward.
Both of the wings top didn't line up, took off the two slot fittings and the screw down now lines up perfectly.

Just undo the bottom bolts on the seat belts and poke them through the top slot/hole.
What holds the battery box in place??
Battery is tried down with supplied fittings.
I want to move it to inside the draw frame. Someone here as done it.
Just need to find it again and the time to do it.

[Bacho86]

Stage 1 of cargo area complete.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/01/121.jpg

Nice work mate - good to see the draws finally turned up!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[jay see]

Nice work mate - good to see the draws finally turned up!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If I got them before Xmas I wouldn't have had the time to get them in. We left on Boxing Day morning for 2 weeks. Once I was back, I got back onto them. Still took them 10 before I could pick them up.

While I was there, some bloke wanted to pick up a set for his fj cruiser.
Sorry we don't have any in stock and there is no deliveries till March, must be cause of Chinese New Year he was told.
Like how there is no mention of that on there emails.

[threedogs]

IDk.

I'm ditching the whole hand held controller now.

might have missed it are you just using dash switches now or one of those remote hand sets.??
Was it Kallen who moved his battery box into the drawers??

[jay see]

Dash switches. Have just ordered an isolator switch and a few others.
Don't think it was Kallen. Might have seen it in the Chev thread.

[threedogs]

I think its someone with a petrol motor, limited room for a battery.

[Winnie]

I think its someone with a petrol motor, limited room for a battery.

Pretty sure it was Hodge.

[jay see]

Pretty sure it was Hodge.
I recall Hodge saying that he was relocating his battery, but I don't it was him.
Will have a look when next on the computer.

[Bacho86]

I recall Hodge saying that he was relocating his battery, but I don't it was him.
Will have a look when next on the computer.

Hodge has moved // is moving his battery into the rear, but doesn't have any draws installed from memory


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[threedogs]

Some have slotted their second battery into the rear quarter panel area

[jay see]

With the excitement of buying goodies for the troll. I stuffed up.
I ordered a 195mm gas strut for the small rear barn door.
This is too small correct?
The next size is 320mm or there abouts.
Before I send it back, is there anywhere else that the 195 could be used?

[threedogs]

With the excitement of buying goodies for the troll. I stuffed up.
I ordered a 195mm gas strut for the small rear barn door.
This is too small correct?
The next size is 320mm or there abouts.
Before I send it back, is there anywhere else that the 195 could be used?

Would you like me to measure my small door gas strut for you ??

[mudski]

Yeah 300mm or there abouts is what you want John. Only light too about 100nm. Or however its measured.

[threedogs]

Yeah 300mm or there abouts is what you want John. Only light too about 100nm. Or however its measured.

10nm is approx 10kg and so on with a 50nm being approx 50kg
pretty sure thats about right

[jay see]

Cheers John & Mark.

I did order the 100nm just not in the right length.

Managed to find a bit of time this afternoon.

Draws firmly secured.
Ready for drop slide and fridge tomorrow

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/01/175.jpg

Barn door extender fitted.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/01/176.jpg

Relocated neg cable.

No pic.

[mudski]

You make a strap for the middle too John?
Speaking of drop slides. I spotted a better version of ours from clearview mirrors.
I reckon i might flog mine off eventually and get one of theirs.

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[jay see]

You make a strap for the middle too John?
Speaking of drop slides. I spotted a better version of ours from clearview mirrors.
I reckon i might flog mine off eventually and get one of theirs.

Sent from my GT-N7105T using Tapatalk
Got a link?

[mudski]

Got a link?
http://www.clearviewmirrors.com.au/

A fair whack dearer than the MSA one though.

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[jay see]

http://www.clearviewmirrors.com.au/

A fair whack dearer than the MSA one though.

Sent from my GT-N7105T using Tapatalk
Don't really see much of a difference.

[jay see]

You make a strap for the middle too John?


Nah, I didn't.

[Bacho86]

Don't really see much of a difference.

Pretty sure unleashed (or whateva pat callans mag is called) did a review comparison of the msa and clearview drop down slides last year.

From memory they're pretty similar, think the clearview has a few other new features and weighs a fair bit less as well - but it does cost a few hundred $$$ more


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[mudski]

Nah, I didn't.
You might find the centre of the drawers will pull up when the drop slide is loaded and pulled out.


Don't really see much of a difference.

The MSA slide handle lifts up and over the fridge when you lower it. The Clearview fridge goes down. Not a big deal for most but for a shorty like me, and if your parked on a bit of a hill, it can be a task. Also I have found the handle hits the top section of the small barn door too when lowering. So I need to force the door open that little bit more for it to clear.

[jay see]

You might find the centre of the drawers will pull up when the drop slide is loaded and pulled out.


The MSA slide handle lifts up and over the fridge when you lower it. The Clearview fridge goes down. Not a big deal for most but for a shorty like me, and if your parked on a bit of a hill, it can be a task. Also I have found the handle hits the top section of the small barn door too when lowering. So I need to force the door open that little bit more for it to clear.

I'm going to put it all in today and then see how it holds up. If a center point is needed will do it then.


I think you might be taller than me lol.
I reakon i can live with the MSA considering the the whole set up (draws, dropslide, cage and fridge) cost me $1600.

[jay see]

Stage 2 complete.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/01/179.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/01/180.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/01/181.jpg

[jay see]

Should I be running all negatives to a buzz bar or just earth them to the closest point.

[mudski]

Depends on what it is I suppose. I try to have a common earth point in different sections of the car. Only for trouble shooting if need be really.

[jay see]

Winch switch sorted. Just need to do a simple switch on the bar and some light for the isolator.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/02/1.jpg

[jay see]

Depends on what it is I suppose. I try to have a common earth point in different sections of the car. Only for trouble shooting if need be really.
Nothing over the top.
A merit plug for the fridge and then some 12v charging points and some led light bars.

[jay see]

Dvb-t arrived yesterday as I was leaving for work.
Couldn't wait so I gave it a quick wire in to see how it goes when I got home.
Only manage to get ch31, but I'm hoping that's only because of the antennas that the unit came with.

[threedogs]

Dvb-t arrived yesterday as I was leaving for work.
Couldn't wait so I gave it a quick wire in to see how it goes when I got home.
Only manage to get ch31, but I'm hoping that's only because of the antennas that the unit came with.

You should first scan channels which Im sure you did.
different locations will have different reception.
I found the Aust made Laser antenna the best available
I receive all channels available from free for view

[threedogs]

jaysee here you go the reason behind the 780mm and not the larger
one is so you will fit under most car ports, Im sick of breaking tips off
antenna. lol

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/780-Laser-fibreglass-digital-TV-antenna-suit-car-truck-caravan-television-/142247054838?hash=item211e95cdf6:g:tYcAAOSw7NNT8Tr D.

[jay see]

Got a few things done the last few days.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/02/169.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/02/170.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/02/171.jpg


Also ran a heap of wiring under the dash for a bank of switches.

What kind of switch should I be running on the bullbar for the winch?

[MB]

Winch switch sorted. Just need to do a simple switch on the bar and some light for the isolator.
I like that location Jaysee, well done mate, gonna have to copy that if ok mate! Can be easily reached in and out of cab if needed, GOLD :-) !

[gubigfish]

Got a few things done the last few days.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/02/170.jpg


Where did you get this from? I take it it reads the voltage for whatever battery its connected to?

[jay see]

I like that location Jaysee, well done mate, gonna have to copy that if ok mate! Can be easily reached in and out of cab if needed, GOLD :-) !
Didn't think of it that way.
I put them there so they're in easy reach while in the drivers seat.
Copy away mate, we're here to share ideas.

Where did you get this from? I take it it reads the voltage for whatever battery its connected to?
EBay.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/201749493170

Yes, correct same as the one behind the centre console.
Thinking I might move that one to the rear cargo area. Kids don't care what volts there is.

Also did an oil and filter change on mine, the wife and the father in law cars.

Rotated my tyres and one side needed a wheel bearing nipped up, but couldn't find my cut 8mm Allen key.

[mudski]

Where did you get this from? I take it it reads the voltage for whatever battery its connected to?

And its 4.2A. I wonder if thats true. Most I've seen are only 1 or 2 amp. Barely enough for most devices these days. Might haveta get one I reckon.

[jay see]

And its 4.2A. I wonder if thats true. Most I've seen are only 1 or 2 amp. Barely enough for most devices these days. Might haveta get one I reckon.
What's why I got them.
Will put a mulitmeter to it and report back.

[mudski]

Yeah good spot to you have it John. I have the antenna mast switch there but I dont use it as I have an am/fm whip antenna on the bull bar for this. You can never have enough usb charge ports.

[jay see]

Yeah good spot to you have it John. I have the antenna mast switch there but I dont use it as I have an am/fm whip antenna on the bull bar for this. You can never have enough usb charge ports.
Same.
Radio runs of the digital signal, so no need for the antenna up/down.
FM whip and TV whip will be coming soon.

[Winnie]

For the bullbar mate get 2 fully weatherproof momentary push buttons. I need to add the bullbar controls as well

[MB]

For the bullbar mate get 2 fully weatherproof momentary push buttons. I need to add the bullbar controls as well
G'day Winnie, sorry Jaysee for jumping your thread. What are "Momentary push buttons"I know it's descriptive in name, do you have a preferred brand or link we can learn from mate?
Cheers in advance, take your time with new bubbs mate :-) !

[Winnie]

G'day Winnie, sorry Jaysee for jumping your thread. What are "Momentary push buttons"I know it's descriptive in name, do you have a preferred brand or link we can learn from mate?
Cheers in advance, take your time with new bubbs mate :-) !
Something like this Mark, the switch only makes contact while you hold your finger. There is a spring release so as soon as you release your finger then the switch breaks contact to the solenoid.

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/SCA-Switch-Momentary-On-Push-16mm-With-Boot/120388

[threedogs]

YOU push to activate and when you take your finger off it closes the switch

[Winnie]

YOU push to activate and when you take your finger off it closes the switch
No mate when you take your finger off it opens the switch and breaks the contact.

[threedogs]

No mate when you take your finger off it opens the switch and breaks the contact.

Yeah,,,,,, they are a great switch Jaycar have fully waterproof toggle switches

[MB]

Cheers blokes, good to learn honestly! We're all on the same page, descriptive educational words thanks Winnie :-)
Personally a little weary though of SCA contact points type product longevity though through the mud and crud. Any top brands out there that comp blokes might be using, I dislike doing mods twice, thanks Mudski :-)

[jay see]

G'day Winnie, sorry Jaysee for jumping your thread. What are "Momentary push buttons"I know it's descriptive in name, do you have a preferred brand or link we can learn from mate?
Cheers in advance, take your time with new bubbs mate :-) !
Not a problem at all Mark.

As Winnie mentioned or a straight on/off. That way you have free hands while winching, but I do see the safety aspect for a monentary. Ahh decisions, decisions.

[MB]

Not a problem at all Mark. As Winnie mentioned or a straight on/off. That way you have free hands while winching, but I do see the safety aspect for a monentary. Ahh decisions, decisions.
Cheers Jaysee mate! Safety aspect I'm thinking definitely 'Momentary' and not 'Switch' for us all. We all need to be in fine shape for the upcoming Donk party bro :-) !

[Winnie]

Cheers blokes, good to learn honestly! We're all on the same page, descriptive educational words thanks Winnie :-)
Personally a little weary though of SCA contact points type product longevity though through the mud and crud. Any top brands out there that comp blokes might be using, I dislike doing mods twice, thanks Mudski :-)
Yeah, honestly they would probably be okay though. I reckon Narva would do an identical switch though which would hopefully be the more reliable option.

I reckon you definitely want the momentary button Jaysee, a toggle switch could be a disaster waiting to happen. I can just see somebody flicking the switch without you knowing, and when you hit the power isolator the winch starts reeling in and sucks the hook through the bar doing all kinds of damage.
Or getting hands caught in and crushing them too.

[jay see]

Yeah, good point.
Monentary pretty much replaces the old wired handheld. That's the way to go.

[MB]

Yeah, good point. Monentary pretty much replaces the old wired handheld. That's the way to go.
:-) Wired handheld's, dang I've ruined a few of those cords in the old days :-)

[jay see]

I still haven't got around to installing the antennas, but started thinking about positions.
There will be 3 on the bullbar will having them close to each other cause interference problems?

[jay see]

Another dumb question.

1.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/03/3.jpg

Or

2.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/03/4.jpg

[Hodge]

#2 and that little metal washer / plate goes underneath.

[jay see]

Thanks Eric.
Didn't even know that it came apart.

[Coger]

Jay see - separate your antennas by approx 300mm to avoid any potential interference, but saying that the most important thing is to get them as high as possible, ie mount on top rail of bar, have you thought of one antenna mounted on the bonnet or at the rear of vehicle. Be aware of keeping them legal, if I remember there is a size limit (diameter of antenna) that can be mounted n front of drivers side.

[jay see]

Jay see - separate your antennas by approx 300mm to avoid any potential interference, but saying that the most important thing is to get them as high as possible, ie mount on top rail of bar, have you thought of one antenna mounted on the bonnet or at the rear of vehicle. Be aware of keeping them legal, if I remember there is a size limit (diameter of antenna) that can be mounted n front of drivers side.
Thanks Coger.

They are all on the top rail of the bullbar. I can separate them to get a 300mm gap, will do that tomorrow.
I've decided not to have anything on the drivers side for the reason that you mentioned.

If the the TV doesn't work properly I'll rerun it to the roof rack.

[threedogs]

Thanks Eric.
Didn't even know that it came apart.

Number 2 for sure and run an extra earth to the closest
battery, save chipping off the powder coating.
Space them as best you can UHF doesnt like to be crowded I think
so you have TV,,,UHF ,,whats the third ???
EDIT:::::AM_FM yes

[threedogs]

Jay see - separate your antennas by approx 300mm to avoid any potential interference, but saying that the most important thing is to get them as high as possible, ie mount on top rail of bar, have you thought of one antenna mounted on the bonnet or at the rear of vehicle. Be aware of keeping them legal, if I remember there is a size limit (diameter of antenna) that can be mounted n front of drivers side.

30mm from memory is the thickest, it was cause ppl were mounting their VHF on the bullbar
Keep them in from the edge of your bullbar otherwise you'll end up snapping them off.lol

[jay see]

Had some trouble with the antenna connection, got it working but will change it when Jay car get the correct ones in stock.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/03/19.jpg

[threedogs]

Is it called a sma connection to the head unit from the DBtV unit

[jay see]

Yeah, I know.
It's actually rca from the headunit to the HD box and the sma is from the aerial to the box.
Sunshine didn't have one to suit the rg59 cable, so gave me an adapter.

It's very sensitive tho. I was waiting to pick up my son and watched the early news on Ch 9, which was jumping in and out a bit, moved 5 metres forward and perfect on every single channel, until some lady parked in front of me and lost all the digital 10 & 7 channels.

[threedogs]

Yeah, I know.
It's actually rca from the headunit to the HD box and the sma is from the aerial to the box.
Sunshine didn't have one to suit the rg59 cable, so gave me an adapter.

It's very sensitive tho. I was waiting to pick up my son and watched the early news on Ch 9, which was jumping in and out a bit, moved 5 metres forward and perfect on every single channel, until some lady parked in front of me and lost all the digital 10 & 7 channels.

Yeah a bit hit and miss sometimes, older cars will interfere a bit more ,,like faulty plug leads.
Different places will pick up different channels, but still handy.

[jay see]

Yeah a bit hit and miss sometimes, older cars will interfere a bit more ,,like faulty plug leads.
Different places will pick up different channels, but still handy.
I'm hoping on fixing this with a proper connection or maybe a signal amplifier, if there is such a thing.

[Mike02Ti]

jay see check out what jaycar has to offer for signal amplifiers. Im sure they do Caravan ones that run on 12v

Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

[threedogs]

give Laser antenna a call thats all they do mainly is RV tv antennas

[jay see]

Well been a while since I've been on this post.

New battery arrived. Crap it's big.....

I want to free up space on top of the draws, so this big boy is going behind the left hand side draw.

I'm getting a 3mm plate from work for the battery to sit on.

I've got enough room to lay it flat, but will have less draw or sit it upright, but will make getting to the terminals a little harder.

One concern is heat and air circulation. That's why I cut out a large hole. If I find that it's too hot I made wire in a 12v fan.

What's it for now, just got to see if I can get someone at work to weld the end piece of the draw back on.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/02/7.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/02/8.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/02/9.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/02/10.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/02/11.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/02/12.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/02/13.jpg

Sent from my A1601 using Tapatalk

[jay see]

It's in..

Need to make up a battery bracket to stop it from sliding left and right. Then repostiton the cables and fuse to neaten it up. I've also ordered a double Anderson to run off the battery, so will need to find a place for that.

Pretty happy with how it's come up. I always wanted to put the battery there.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/02/95.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/02/96.jpg

Sent from my A1601 using Tapatalk

[jay see]

Progress report.

Battery is now completely secured. It sits on a 3mm plate that is screwed into the draws frame. Strapped over the center and held down it's a custom made battery clamp to stop it moving left to right.

Draw got welded today and is back in. Double Anderson and genuine weaco plug fitted. Will have to move the fuse box to the cage as well, them will fit everything to a board and neaten it up with some conduit.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/02/121.jpg

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[jay see]

Question.

The double Anderson is for the fridge and solar. There's a 10a fuse for the fridge wired on close to the plug, but do I need a fuse for the solar, or having a regular does the same thing??

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[jay see]

One down one to go.

Dual oil and temp next. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/03/227.jpg

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[mudski]

Those Redarc Gauges are good hey. I have the same in mine.

[jay see]

Those Redarc Gauges are good hey. I have the same in mine.Yeah they are, but not bloody cheap that why the other is still to come.

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[nissannewby]

Coming along nicely there.

[jay see]

Coming along nicely there.Cheers mate.

Slowly but surely getting there.

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[jay see]

Finally got around to running new wire from the rear fuse box to under the dash.

Pulled out the seats and pulled back the carpet. After a little sponge bath to the floor I ran a 7 core trailer and new wires to behind the centre console. Now it's all one piece no more joins.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/04/185.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/04/186.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/04/187.jpg

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[threedogs]

Can see some Dyna matt coming up, like Matt said its getting there buddy well done
big pat on your back mate, well done

[Hodge]

[QUOTE=jay see;752911]It's in..

Need to make up a battery bracket to stop it from sliding left and right. Then repostiton the cables and fuse to neaten it up. I've also ordered a double Anderson to run off the battery, so will need to find a place for that.

Pretty happy with how it's come up. I always wanted to put the battery there.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/02/95.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/02/96.jpg

Sent from my A1601 using Tapatalk[/QUOTE jay see jaysee

What did you do about draw end stops mate ?
Right now the my draw hits the wall at the back with rubber padding.
Or does the draw hold the battery in place once shut ?

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[jay see]

[QUOTE=jay see;752911]It's in..

Need to make up a battery bracket to stop it from sliding left and right. Then repostiton the cables and fuse to neaten it up. I've also ordered a double Anderson to run off the battery, so will need to find a place for that.

Pretty happy with how it's come up. I always wanted to put the battery there.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/02/95.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/02/96.jpg

Sent from my A1601 using Tapatalk[/QUOTE jay see jaysee

What did you do about draw end stops mate ?
Right now the my draw hits the wall at the back with rubber padding.
Or does the draw hold the battery in place once shut ?

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Wow how's that for timing I haven't been on lately but I was going to post something about a charger which you'll see after I've done this.
Those Tags don't seem to be coming through I only saw this by chance.

I never installed to draw stops. Forgot about them when I first installed them.
I gave the back of the drawer about 20 mm clearance, just gotta be mindful when you open it all the way.

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[jay see]

New ones ready to go in.

Next to install the wiring upgrade kit. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/09/104.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/09/105.jpg

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[jay see]

Wiring done. Light bar and wiring tomorrow. Then onto the door.
Will post up some comparison shots of the headlights tomorrow, but for now it works. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/09/107.jpg

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[jay see]

Well today didn't go as planned.

For some reason I didn't have high beams and then I would get my spotlights coming on with low beam.. Finally sorted that, then the right hand side light didn't want to go in properly starting to get frustrated. Left it and moved onto the wiring harness for the light bar. That's done just need to run the wires to a switch and one to the rack. Called it a day. Soccer boy as presentation tonight.

We'll see what tomorrow brings..

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[jay see]

Lights all done and wow what a difference. Do think I need to adjust them correctly, anyone know what's the right way and that cheap light bar throws light as far as my 75w hid.

Will post up some pics when I next get out, plenty of farmland nearby.

Now the bullbar indicators and parkers need changing...

Sorry gents shit photos.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/09/132.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/09/133.jpg

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[MB]

There is I believe some sort of whitewall/distance calibration heights JaySee mate! As long as it farks with those ADR bullshit legal BMW go cart eyeballs is fine by our Kangawallabats :-)


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[jay see]

Shit mate, I have to read your stuff a few times to understand what you're saying, is it just me...

Just remembered that having that lean isn't going to help with the adjustment.

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[MB]

Not just you old mate, me too, off to noddy lands now good man [emoji106][emoji106]


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[0-TJ-0]

Driven much with your top light bar on at night yet? Or is it a brand new addition? I find I don't use mine on the highway because it lights up the foreground too much and starts to make my eyes hurt after a while. I reckon I'm going to re-wire it for a camp setup/track light and only use it off road. It's a brilliant flood light.

[jay see]

New addition mate. I've ran it once through the farmland nearby and on the highway. I see what you mean using it were it's busy (signs and trees near the roads edge). However were it's flat and open I was surprised how well both the distance and spread is.

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[jay see]

Getting a couple of things sorted.

Neaten up the wiring from the aux battery and added a 120amp circuit breaker. The wire to the left of the double Anderson is to connect the battery charger and is connected directly to the battery. The double Anderson is one for the fridge which has is own amp fuse and the other is solar input. This is also connected directly to the battery. Should I have the Anderson plug wired to the fuse block. As it is now it's got nothing to do with the circuit breaker.

Pinched the food prep board idea from mudski, I'm sure others have this too.

Next is to make a plate out of SS for the winch solenoid. It's just sitting there ATM. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/12/118.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/12/119.jpg

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[Ben-e-boy]

Just 1 question. How big is the cable through that breaker?

[jay see]

Just 1 question. How big is the cable through that breaker?4AWG.

That's what I found on the cable.

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[Ben-e-boy]

4AWG.

That's what I found on the cable.

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That cable is way too small for a 120A C/B. If it is 4awg (which is just under 25mm2) it will be really pushing to be good for 80A at it's very best. That cable could go in smoke before that bresker even knows there is an issue. You'll need to either get a smaller C/B or up the cable size to atleast 50mm2.

[jay see]

Wouldn't a bigger cable be overkill?

To keep that cable what size breaker would be suitable. Is it depended on what's connected to the fuse block?

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[Ben-e-boy]

Wouldn't a bigger cable be overkill?

To keep that cable what size breaker would be suitable. Is it depended on what's connected to the fuse block?

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Not overkill if there is a 120A breaker there. You need to select circuit protection according to cable size, so it protects the cable to prevent it burning up in the event of a fault.
I would only put a 60A breaker in.



Here's an awg-mm2 conversion chart for future reference.

[PeeBee]

Not overkill if there is a 120A breaker there. You need to select circuit protection according to cable size, so it protects the cable to prevent it burning up.
I would only put a 60A breaker in.

I agree with BB. Running a big cable is great for DC voltage drop, especially at low voltage. The accessories are protected by their own circuit fuse. You want to protect that supply cable from a dead short in my experience. In reality, the dead short condition would rise from 60 - 120amp in an instant anyway, however so does the temperature, which can burn a hole thru the insulation of the cable and even start a fire. I have extensive experience with smoke testing cables and a hard learnt lesson is never to under protect the power circuit. By putting in a fuse that is larger than the cable rating you are under protecting it. Another thing to consider is sustained heat in the cabin and also the duty rating of the cable insulation. If you are running the cable at near its limit, then you might want to upgrade the size also, however looking at the size of the accessory wires you have coming off the fuse block I suspect this cable might be ok.

[Ben-e-boy]

. In reality, the dead short condition would rise from 60 - 120amp in an instant anyway, however so does the temperature, which can burn a hole thru the insulation of the cable and even start a fire.
.

Those circuit breakers ( guessing based on another brand of Automotive C/B's ) probably have an instantaneous trip (<0.4sec) of 10×Rated current.
That is 10x120A=1200A. If your circuit is undersize, poorly jointed or whatever , the short circuit current wont be high enough to trip the breaker instantly,

[PeeBee]

.

Those circuit breakers ( guessing based on another brand of Automotive C/B's ) probably have an instantaneous trip (<0.4sec) of 10×Rated current.
That is 10x120A=1200A. If your circuit is undersize, poorly jointed or whatever , the short circuit current wont be high enough to trip the breaker instantly,

I am sure they will trip at a point well before the insulation is compromised is perhaps the message. They are a cheap generic design and I have them in use and they certainly have worked for me when i have replicated the short circuit fault.

[Ben-e-boy]

I am sure they will trip at a point well before the insulation is compromised is perhaps the message. They are a cheap generic design and I have them in use and they certainly have worked for me when i have replicated the short circuit fault.

No, the message is get the breaker to trip instantly in the event of a fault, dont give it a chance to wait around and trip whenever, hoping it doesn't damage other stuff. That just increases the chance of it not working and damaging other stuff.
General overloading on the other hand needs a bit of room to move.

How did you replicate the short circuit fault?

[PeeBee]

Shorted to earth. I think we are talking in circles. If you have a main cable feeding a sub board, protect the feed cable as suggested with the 60 amp breaker, and the accessories off that board are protected by their correctly sized breaker or fuse per circuit The main breaker should be sized to protect the cable and the accumulated maximum load it might see if every accessory was drawing their maximum current. ie, if you blow a fuse on a circuit with a 5amp draw, the main breaker of 60a is not going to trip. If you damage the main feed cable between the battery and the sub panel,and it feeds to earth, the main cable breaker will trip.

[jay see]

Thank you gentleman. Good information there. [emoji106][emoji106]

So a 60 amp breaker and I should be good.

Just on wire size. The wires going to the fuse box is trailer wire. Used for radio., Uhf, a couple of 4.2 amp dual USB and cig plugs. Do you see any problems with that.

Suppose I should make sure that I'm using correct size fuses as well.

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[PeeBee]

Should be fine as cables are typically rated at 10a although there is a 15a cable avail for trailer wiring as well.

[jay see]

Should be fine as cables are typically rated at 10a although there is a 15a cable avail for trailer wiring as well.Pretty sure it's 10a wire, so I shouldn't have fuses bigger than the wire. Max fuse 10a correct.

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[PeeBee]

You should be protecting the device first then the wire. If the device calls up a 2amp fuse, thats what you install. If the device is calling up a 15amp fuse and you have 10amp cable, upgrade the cable.

[Cuppa]

Have just read the past few posts about fuse/circuit breaker sizing & thought I'd add a couple of comments.

Firstly a summarising comment which I think both BB & PB will agree with. Assuming correctly sized cabling for intended loads is fitted, the fuse or contact breaker should have the minimum current capacity you can fit without being blown/tripped by the appliance in normal use. That way the cable is protected in as wide a range of circumstances as possible. In the event of a short circuit you want the protection as 'instantly' as possible. The fuse/CB should be fitted as close to the battery as possible to protect as much of the cable as possible.

If you find, as I did, that normal use of an appliance blows the fuse or trips a contact breaker, so long as your cable is adequately sized for the appliance's current draw, you can safely increase the current rating of the fuse/CB up to the next size. Example. I run a Makita fast charger off my inverter to charge 18v lithium batteries. My inverter is rated at 350w which at 12v equates to a tad under 30amps max, so I fitted a 30amp circuit breaker. However I found that it kept tripping. The combination of the fast charger's current draw & the inverter's ability to operate over it's rating had shown me that during the charge cycle the the fast charger was at times pulling up to 33amps. The next size CB available to fit the housing I had was a 50amp which I had no qualms about fitting. It no longer gets tripped by the Makita charger & I am confident the cables are still protected from overheating in the event of a short. In short (pun intended) if unsure start smaller & increase if required rather than the other way around ...as a general rule.

Secondly ... something BB made reference too. I claim no expertise, but became aware that different fuses & CB's have different 'trigger' times. Ben-E-Boy referred to "(<0.4sec) of 10×Rated current". In situations where higher currents are involved the fuse or CB rating is only part of the story, the designed 'trigger' speed is important too. Some fuses are designed to withstand a certain current for x period of time before they blow. An example - in my car I have cable which connects my bank of aux batteries (in the rear canopy) to the crank battery (under the bonnet). It is a 70mm2 cable which allows me to parallel all the batteries for extended winching if needed. The winch on 'full noise' can pull 450amps. As the cable runs in part along the chassis, suitably protected, the risk of sustaining damage on rocks or similar could not be ignored. Current running through the cable from 360Ah of Aux batteries & shorted against the chassis would be sufficient to vapourise metal. So I fitted a 450A fuse in the belief I was doing the right thing. However I later learned that this was not offering me the instant protection I thought I had as it was a 'slow blow' fuse, which could take up to 20 seconds at 450 amps to blow, less at higher amps but still too long in a 'rock damage short' scenario. I took expert advice & fitted a 225A fuse of the same type. It has never yet blown with normal winch use. Others here with better electrical knowledge than me might like to clarify. My main point is that there are pitfalls for the unwary to fall into when it comes to 'electrical protection' .

One other thing, based upon personal experience...... I prefer manually re-settable circuit breakers - auto reset types make electrical problem finding a nightmarebecause by the time you have the multi meter out to do your checking they have reset. I will never fit another!!!

[Ben-e-boy]

Shorted to earth. I think we are talking in circles. If you have a main cable feeding a sub board, protect the feed cable as suggested with the 60 amp breaker, and the accessories off that board are protected by their correctly sized breaker or fuse per circuit The main breaker should be sized to protect the cable and the accumulated maximum load it might see if every accessory was drawing their maximum current. ie, if you blow a fuse on a circuit with a 5amp draw, the main breaker of 60a is not going to trip. If you damage the main feed cable between the battery and the sub panel,and it feeds to earth, the main cable breaker will trip.

Not in circles yet. I'm probably not explaining my point regarding fault current and instantaneous trips properly.

[Ben-e-boy]

Have just read the past few posts about fuse/circuit breaker sizing & thought I'd add a couple of comments.

Firstly a summarising comment which I think both BB & PB will agree with. Assuming correctly sized cabling for intended loads is fitted, the fuse or contact breaker should have the minimum current capacity you can fit without being blown/tripped by the appliance in normal use. That way the cable is protected in as wide a range of circumstances as possible. In the event of a short circuit you want the protection as 'instantly' as possible. The fuse/CB should be fitted as close to the battery as possible to protect as much of the cable as possible.


Correct. But in order to get an instantaneous trip you need to have a circuit impedance (ohms) low enough to actually generate a high enough fault current. To use the previous 120A breaker @ 10 x In example, your circuit Impedance needs to be a maximum of 0.01ohm to achieve an instantaneous disconnect. There is much more to it.

If you find, as I did, that normal use of an appliance blows the fuse or trips a contact breaker, so long as your cable is adequately sized for the appliance's current draw, you can safely increase the current rating of the fuse/CB up to the next size. Example. I run a Makita fast charger off my inverter to charge 18v lithium batteries. My inverter is rated at 350w which at 12v equates to a tad under 30amps max, so I fitted a 30amp circuit breaker. However I found that it kept tripping. The combination of the fast charger's current draw & the inverter's ability to operate over it's rating had shown me that during the charge cycle the the fast charger was at times pulling up to 33amps. The next size CB available to fit the housing I had was a 50amp which I had no qualms about fitting. It no longer gets tripped by the Makita charger & I am confident the cables are still protected from overheating in the event of a short. In short (pun intended) if unsure start smaller & increase if required rather than the other way around ...as a general rule.

Secondly ... something BB made reference too. I claim no expertise, but became aware that different fuses & CB's have different 'trigger' times. Ben-E-Boy referred to "(<0.4sec) of 10×Rated current". In situations where higher currents are involved the fuse or CB rating is only part of the story, the designed 'trigger' speed is important too. Some fuses are designed to withstand a certain current for x period of time before they blow. An example - in my car I have cable which connects my bank of aux batteries (in the rear canopy) to the crank battery (under the bonnet). It is a 70mm2 cable which allows me to parallel all the batteries for extended winching if needed. The winch on 'full noise' can pull 450amps. As the cable runs in part along the chassis, suitably protected, the risk of sustaining damage on rocks or similar could not be ignored. Current running through the cable from 360Ah of Aux batteries & shorted against the chassis would be sufficient to vapourise metal. So I fitted a 450A fuse in the belief I was doing the right thing. However I later learned that this was not offering me the instant protection I thought I had as it was a 'slow blow' fuse, which could take up to 20 seconds at 450 amps to blow, less at higher amps but still too long in a 'rock damage short' scenario. I took expert advice & fitted a 225A fuse of the same type. It has never yet blown with normal winch use. Others here with better electrical knowledge than me might like to clarify. My main point is that there are pitfalls for the unwary to fall into when it comes to 'electrical protection' .

Fuses and C/B's have a 'Trip Curve' graph (posted below). Selecting an appropriate device should be based on application. Winching for instance, is not exatly a constant load, it is susceptible to spikes in current and possibly even a very short time at locked rotor situation. There is circuit protection available for that intended use that will deal with it appropriately.

One other thing, based upon personal experience...... I prefer manually re-settable circuit breakers - auto reset types make electrical problem finding a nightmarebecause by the time you have the multi meter out to do your checking they have reset. I will never fit another!!!

Some responces in red
I will add that protecting the cable is first and foremost.

Attached is a random trip curve graph plucked from the internet. The darker section is the area where the breaker will trip, everything below that is normal working conditions.


79790

[jay see]

My main point is that there are pitfalls for the unwary to fall into when it comes to 'electrical protection'

Yeap, that's me to a tee.

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[Hodge]

Sorry to gatecrash JaySee.
@Ben-e-boy (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/member.php?1281-Ben-e-boy) Whats your thoughts on them Autoreset breakers, from Jaycar from example?
Where would you apply them ( if at all) , instead of your regular reset-able breakers?



https://www.jaycar.com.au/chassis-mount-autoreset-circuit-breaker-30a-12vdc/p/SF4102

I have 2 in 2 different circuits. Each circuit also has a fuse with same rating as the breaker (30A).
And I've tested them with current and direct to ground contact and they trip instantly, and kick back in when fault clears. Fuse does not blow, these breakers trip faster than the fuse-out.

[Ben-e-boy]

Sorry to gatecrash JaySee.
@Ben-e-boy (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/member.php?1281-Ben-e-boy) Whats your thoughts on them Autoreset breakers, from Jaycar from example?
Where would you apply them ( if at all) , instead of your regular reset-able breakers?



https://www.jaycar.com.au/chassis-mount-autoreset-circuit-breaker-30a-12vdc/p/SF4102

I have 2 in 2 different circuits. Each circuit also has a fuse with same rating as the breaker (30A).
And I've tested them with current and direct to ground contact and they trip instantly, and kick back in when fault clears. Fuse does not blow, these breakers trip faster than the fuse-out.


I'm not the biggest fan. If stuff is tripping out, its doing it for a reason. Even at work we generally dont auto reset anything. There is always the possibility of it frequently trying to close in on a fault without anyone realizing until something is completly rooted.

If I was to use one it'll be on a compressor or something not regularly used, but worked hard when it is. If for whatever reason you need to pump up the tyres of multiple rigs and work it pretty hard it'll trip when its had enough and reset when it's good and ready

[Mickhead]

How much current you can continuously run through a cable depends on 1. Is it cu or al. 2. What is its cross sectional area. 3. How is it routed? Eg.Under the carpet? 4. What material is the insulation made of?
Look at the Olex cable handbook.
Personally if I had 4ga cable running in my car protected by a 120A breaker, I would not stress unless I was pulling 120A thru it for hours on end.On a hot day.
But that is my opinion, make your own mind up.

[jay see]

Next little project is to permanently fit this.

The $5 shovel will live in the back of the patrol.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/33.jpg

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[jay see]

With all the shut downs I've got a few free weekends. Soccer is off for at least 4 weeks and my nephew's wedding was meant to be today.

This has given me the opportunity to fit my console fridge.

Using the existing bracket at the back of the console, I cut about 10mm off where my finger is. Made up two blocks to raise it 20mm so it will sit level. The gray plate is made out of 3mm and the top is screwed down under where the ashtray was. This also holds the gear shift surrounding down. Cut slot with a cutting disk and brought a strap from Bunnings.

So far $479 for the fridge and $6.60 for the strap.

I've got enough room between the drivers seat and the fridge, so I'll relocate the 12v plugs that were behind the console with some 1.6mm that will run from the handbrake to the back of the fridge.

I want to have it permanently wired to a switch and then to my fuse block. Will cutting off the 12v cig plug and rewiring work.

Other thing is I'll end up with 6 rocker switchs how difficult is it to run a bank where the sunglass holder is? I know that there is a write ups, but has anyone done it and how hard was it?
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/70.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/71.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/72.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/73.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/74.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/75.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/76.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/77.jpg

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[jay see]

Made up some templates today. Will see if I can make them out of 1.6 sheet at work.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/79.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/80.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/81.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/82.jpg

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[rusty_nail]

Made up some templates today. Will see if I can make them out of 1.6 sheet at work.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/79.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/80.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/81.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/82.jpg

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looking great mate, i had the same setup in my patrol. fyi, under the fridge there are some grub screws for permanent mounting. not sure if your design allows for access to those screw holes but one thing i did notice is the seam between the top and bottom part of the fridge started to seperate when i had the strap firmly tightened.

edit: i can see yours is already separating in the last pic.

[jay see]

looking great mate, i had the same setup in my patrol. fyi, under the fridge there are some grub screws for permanent mounting. not sure if your design allows for access to those screw holes but one thing i did notice is the seam between the top and bottom part of the fridge started to seperate when i had the strap firmly tightened.

edit: i can see yours is already separating in the last pic.Thanks Nic. What fridge have you got. I had a good look underneath when I got it because that's how I wanted to fit it, but didn't see any screws at all. I might see if I can get some 10-20mm thick form from work and sit it between the plate and the fridge. Maybe that way I can back off the strap a little.

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[rusty_nail]

Thanks Nic. What fridge have you got. I had a good look underneath when I got it because that's how I wanted to fit it, but didn't see any screws at all. I might see if I can get some 10-20mm thick form from work and sit it between the plate and the fridge. Maybe that way I can back off the strap a little.

Sent from my CPH1979 using TapatalkSame one mate, cdf11 I think. Now that I think of it i probably just screwed into the the bottom of it. I'll have a look underneath to clarify bud

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[jay see]

I'm a bit hesitant to do that.

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[mudski]

You should be able to remove the lower housing of the fridge John. I would then make up some sort of brace inside the housing so you can screw bolts into it for a better permanent mounting option. That front strap is already pulling away at the mount point and you've only just put it in. Its only going to weaken in time and make it worse.

[jay see]

Yeah, was thinking of making up another plate this time rectangle to over the whole bottom of the fridge and a smaller one to set inside the bottom cover.

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[10G]

Hey what's the fridge like for an armrest? Is it too high, too long or perfect???

[jay see]

Hey what's the fridge like for an armrest? Is it too high, too long or perfect???Perfect hight, but is quite long. I've pushed it forward as much as possible so I can still grab 1st (auto). That makes it just about flush with the rear of the front seats.

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[jay see]

Took the fridge out to see how I could bolt it down. The bottom section is in two parts. One is about 1/3, the front section where the cable inputs are. The rear section is sealed to the main body along the sides and around the rear. It also has 4 screws along the red line. Taking them out doesn't do anything to the rear section.

Another way could be with a couple of L shape brackets, one on each corner at the rear, only concern there is if I use a self tapping screw that's about 15mm long will I hit anything on the inside. I didn't think I would. There would have to be at least that much clearence around the unit.

The front I can easily screw through the cover into the plate.

Any other thoughts..
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/113.jpg

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[mudski]

Whats under the rubber feet I can see to the right of the pic? I would assume there is a screw under this. If there is, maybe use this screw hole as a mounting point?

[jay see]

Whats under the rubber feet I can see to the right of the pic? I would assume there is a screw under this. If there is, maybe use this screw hole as a mounting point?That was the first place I looked when I took it out of the box. Nothing, peeled back the rubber and nothing.[emoji34]

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[mudski]

Other option is to make a mounting plate for the outside of the case, which can be screwed into the part of the casing where you can do so and then Sikaflex the front section of the plate to the base. Or drill right through the insulated fridge section and bolt it down onto a plate. Then just silicone over the bolts on the inside. Use stainless bolts though.

[10G]

Keen to see what this looks like when it's done. I've started looking for an arm rest for my left arm, a fridge may be the answer???????

[jay see]

Made up some pieces at work today. Bit of a rush job, but wanna see if they work out.

The grey plate will be bolted down like the old one, but this time the stainless sleeve will be bolted to the plate. I've got a piece of form for the fridge to sit on in the sleeve. Will see how the other pieces fit once the fridge is bolted down.
The stainless is what they call rimex. The other parts once fitted correctly will be powercoated then painted the same colour as the interior code K I think it is.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/124.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/125.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/126.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/127.jpg

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[10G]

Looking good mate, coming along well.

[jay see]

Need some advice one the one guys.

Nevermind. I've cut them out.

I will make a piece to wrap around the back, but other than that I think I'll leave it as is. I will try to get the other parts made up with some adjustments at work and get some paint from Supercheap.

If I can get some more rimex I'll grow the sides to the light grey.


The side of the fridge has ventilation slots if I cut them out in the stainless I'm going to lose the strength across the front what do you think.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/137.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/138.jpg

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http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/139.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200329/c0331fa650b386e17828b58d9bb7fd10.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200329/0556d96461b59b1a741d35936af3240c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200329/98ebd63d3c1a85ba4a2b7da0279cd289.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200329/11a3c7b3a28fc926c7ec68154c876958.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200329/b4000be1ac532b52cb25ad18799ea714.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200329/9d11b726672bacc338da90c6a6d906b5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200329/e7b50e229aa73395880f755475a809e0.jpg

[rusty_nail]

look great mate!

[Mickhead]

Awesome fabrication work to make it fit.. but I have to ask..... why? :)

[jay see]

Awesome fabrication work to make it fit.. but I have to ask..... why? :)Why, because I can. It's what I do for work.

Nah, seriously if you go back about a week or so you'll see that with the strap it was pulling away. I was always going to make the other pieces just to neaten it all up.



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[Cremulator]

Need some advice one the one guys.

Nevermind. I've cut them out.

I will make a piece to wrap around the back, but other than that I think I'll leave it as is. I will try to get the other parts made up with some adjustments at work and get some paint from Supercheap.

If I can get some more rimex I'll grow the sides to the light grey.


The side of the fridge has ventilation slots if I cut them out in the stainless I'm going to lose the strength across the front what do you think.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/137.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/138.jpg

Sent from my CPH1979 using Tapatalk
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/139.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/140.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/141.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/142.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/143.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/144.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/145.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/146.jpgIf you take a plastic piece of the interior trim into Bunnings they have a colour spectrophotometer that will read the colour information from a surface and mix up paint to match it.
You can get a sample pot around 250mls for about $8 from memory, but they will do whatever quantity you need.

[jay see]

Thanks.
But Supercheap and Autobarn both do it in a can just need to provide interior code, pretty sure it's code K.

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[Cremulator]

Thanks.
But Supercheap and Autobarn both do it in a can just need to provide interior code, pretty sure it's code K.

Sent from my CPH1979 using TapatalkOh that's great then, I didn't know they could match interior colours, very cool!
The codes are stamped on the VIN plate on the fire wall [emoji106]

[10G]

looking good mate, coming along well. I would have just cut a hole, well a rectangle within the side but not up to the top, you wouldn't block that much ventilation by leaving 10-20mm there.

[Mickhead]

Oh that's great then, I didn't know they could match interior colours, very cool!
The codes are stamped on the VIN plate on the fire wall [emoji106]

Tightass method of code K: Bunnings :) close enough because its not a Lexus :)8073880739

[mudski]

Thanks.
But Supercheap and Autobarn both do it in a can just need to provide interior code, pretty sure it's code K.

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Yeah yours will be K. Same as mine.


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[jay see]

Yeah yours will be K. Same as mine.


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkApparently Supercheap and Autobarn don't have interior codes. The paint spot can do it in a can, but code K is grey. To me my interior looks more like a tan/brown??

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http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/04/73.jpg

[PeeBee]

Colour designations are odd from the car companies. My BMW is colour Amethist Grey and its a metallic brown. The interior of the GQ is listed as blue, yet its clearly grey. Suggest you guy a can and try it with the recommended undercoat also.

[jay see]

Well code k is grey, a really light grey. I'm going to leave it like this for now, but I will get some paint from Bunnings paint as close as possible to the gear surround.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/04/100.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/04/101.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/04/102.jpg

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[PeeBee]

Good job, bet you are glad to finish it.

[jay see]

Thanks mate.

Not really happy with the colour, but that's easy to fix. I forgot to screw the other Anderson plug to the handbrake cover another easy fix. I'm still working as per normal, just helps that there's no soccer for my son ATM.

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[MB TD42]

Nice...nothing like being able to grab a cold one on the fly...
Maybe a carpet finish may work? Just a thought...

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[jay see]

Tightass method of code K: Bunnings :) close enough because its not a Lexus :)8073880739
Nice...nothing like being able to grab a cold one on the fly...
Maybe a carpet finish may work? Just a thought...

Sent from my SM-G960F using TapatalkThanks mate.

I'll be taking Mickhead approach. Bunnings paint.

Code k at paint spot wasn't even close. There's a mob nearby where I can bring in a sample and they will mix it up in a can, but it's a minimum of 2 cans at $25 each. Should've gone with that the first time.

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[jay see]

With the cost of winch rope coming down since it's become more popular. I can't seem to find what is a fair price. I've searched the forum and found old post, but nothing with newish prices.

I'm looking at dyneema sk75 10mm x 30m rope, eBay search has returned $200 - $90.

And how do I now I'm getting genuine dyneema. Just because the add has alot of information doesn't mean it's genuine.

And some are advertised as tow/winch rope, surly there's a difference.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/07/192.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/07/193.jpg

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[10G]

With the cost of winch rope coming down since it's become more popular. I can't seem to find what is a fair price. I've searched the forum and found old post, but nothing with newish prices.

I'm looking at dyneema sk75 10mm x 30m rope, eBay search has returned $200 - $90.

And how do I now I'm getting genuine dyneema. Just because the add has alot of information doesn't mean it's genuine.

And some are advertised as tow/winch rope, surly there's a difference.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/07/192.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/07/193.jpg

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I know with some things where there's a price difference like shown here, the cheaper item is shipped from China, or O/S at least. Even if the advert says it ships from Oz, it sometimes doesn't.

[MB]

IMHO give this local mob your coin Jaysee Mate!
I personally entrust whole heartedly that their Standards Testing meet their written certifications.

https://www.whittamropes.com.au/

At the end of the day, a winch line failure could unfortunately mean the difference between life/death and or at the least a very expensive rebuild or write off out there over the edge brother:-(



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[jay see]

IMHO give this local mob your coin Jaysee Mate!
I personally entrust whole heartedly that their Standards Testing meet their written certifications.

https://www.whittamropes.com.au/

At the end of the day, a winch line failure could unfortunately mean the difference between life/death and or at the least a very expensive rebuild or write off out there over the edge brother:-(



Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkI got in contact with them Mark this is part of their response.

We are a manufacturer and a wholesaler. We don’t sell to the public.
I will be able to put you onto somebody if you don’t have a business and an ABN.

We have the following wholesalers:

DNA offroad and Road runner offroad.

Thanks for the heads-up.[emoji122]



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[MB]

Most Welcome John Mate!
It is great that they’re honouring their wholesale distributors.
The likes of say Road Runner have always appeared in my other product pricing comparisons to be as cheap anyways.
They will definitely be buying in bulk (less handling fees etc...) so you’ll know doubt pay the same as the old days off the street.


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[MB]

As a quick honest product review on Whittams brand:
This snippet below from a ‘loser’ in last months snow photo competition:-)
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/08/43.jpg
One seriously stuck heavy GU wagon off the side of a track down to its floor pan atop of bulldozer sludge.
Chinese 10mm Dimeadozeneema rope popped instantly on the first GQ recovery HM kind attempt.
Took the tucker tank with 11mm Whittams and an Iskra/Mahle HM to get the job done!
Mind you the GU ute is some 25mm longer now since it’s rear was shackled to a chunky stump :-)



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[jay see]

Have finally got my bits and pieces to get my winch up and running, now to find the time inbetween a few little projects that I've got going on.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/09/83.jpg

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[MB]

Rest well now very well done John Mate [emoji106][emoji106]
Don’t take any shit from that awesome big hook choice too, keep her safe and unscathed uptop affront out there and you’ll rarely need to utilise a Bow shackle tree trunk protector connection ever again, fast and simples...clickity click on [emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]



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[jay see]

Took some rough measurements to get the fairlead to sit in the correct position. This plate will be welded in where the old roller fairlead was.

Going to make the opening on the plate 10mm bigger all round. Will see if I can get on the mill at work during the week.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/09/107.jpg

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[jay see]

Getting back to this.

Test fit and the plate looks to fit pretty good.

Bolting the fairlead through the bullbar and into the plate I have a few different options.

1. I'll will need to make the opening a little bigger or the fairlead won't sit flat on the plate.

2. Taking 3mm (thickness of bullbar) off the back of the fairlead will leave me with 5mm wall for the unbrako to sit in.

3. Don't cut or mill anything and have a 3mm gap between the plate and the fairlead.

Option 3 would be easier and would allow water to run through.

Thoughts please...

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/10/21.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/10/22.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/10/23.jpg

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[threedogs]

Yo John, I brought a hook thats made with plasma/Dyneema in mind
Of course its a TJM product rated and didnt break the bank. Those rope
terminals make things neater, you can leave to hook off till its time to
go 4x4ing.
If youre going to hook the rope up under the patrol , can I suggest you
put some split tubing over the exposed section. stops it being sand blasted
while just driving around

[PeeBee]

If it were me. I would chonk out the section of the bullbar. Do you have access to a grinder and the 1/4" dia shank burrs? I think the fairlead plate needs to be supported across its back, and i would not thin it down.

[jay see]

If it were me. I would chonk out the section of the bullbar. Do you have access to a grinder and the 1/4" dia shank burrs? I think the fairlead plate needs to be supported across its back, and i would not thin it down.Nah, not at home. Could cut most of it out with a grinder and get a die grinder bit from work and put it in a drill to clean it up.

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[PeeBee]

Since I took the leap from the Dremel to the 240V die grinder, a whole new world of opportunity and pain has opened up. I am yet to really master the stability of the bit as have bent 4 burrs to date - into the bin they go. Where I am finding it invaluable is opening up clearance holes for bolts.

[jay see]

Stupid question....

Will a air powered die grinder work off a portable tyre air compressor??

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[PeeBee]

Stupid question....

Will a air powered die grinder work off a portable tyre air compressor??

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No, they use too much air. You need a compressor and large tank or a really high flow compressor. A few of the guys on here have battery units, I know MB has the Milwaukee brand, I bought the 240V Makita, and am very happy with it. What would have been good is a speed control pot on the grinder as mine is a single speed - bloody fast all the time.

[jay see]

No, they use too much air. You need a compressor and large tank or a really high flow compressor. A few of the guys on here have battery units, I know MB has the Milwaukee brand, I bought the 240V Makita, and am very happy with it. What would have been good is a speed control pot on the grinder as mine is a single speed - bloody fast all the time.Thought as much.

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[Mickhead]

Getting back to this.

Test fit and the plate looks to fit pretty good.

Bolting the fairlead through the bullbar and into the plate I have a few different options.

1. I'll will need to make the opening a little bigger or the fairlead won't sit flat on the plate.

2. Taking 3mm (thickness of bullbar) off the back of the fairlead will leave me with 5mm wall for the unbrako to sit in.

3. Don't cut or mill anything and have a 3mm gap between the plate and the fairlead.

Option 3 would be easier and would allow water to run through.

Thoughts please...

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/10/21.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/10/22.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/10/23.jpg

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Looks like you have about 15 to 20 mm of fairlead overhanging either side of the plate you welded to the back of the bullbar. Machine or grind the rear of these 15 to 20mm sections back like you said by 3 mm. Your fairlead is bearing bugger all load, its only guiding your rope.

[PeeBee]

The fairlead only sees zero load when the rope is sliding straight over it. Any angular pull into the winch outs load on the fairlead. Its a sliding load, so decreased by the co-eff of friction, but it is not potentially next to nothing. The fairlead needs to be supported or it may bend - simple reactions taking place.

[jay see]

Hit it with a grinder this afternoon, will tidy it up with the die grinder at work.

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http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/10/34.jpg

[jay see]

Question regarding getting the rope on the drum.

Took off the old cable and it looks like the small bolt that attached to the drum was broken. Do I need to attach the new rope the same way? I read that some just wrap it tightly. I'm going to put some tape as a marker about 2 metres before the end.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/10/47.jpg

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[PeeBee]

If you can use the original mounting bolt, just do that. Alternately MudRunnerTD, Rossco, @NB have all used different knots and hillbilly chants i believe on their ropes with success.