fuel tank procedure

[scubasteve]

Gday guys

Ive just sourced a stock rear fuel tank for the maverick (tb42s carby) as it doesnt have one and am looking to install it. It currently has only an aux tank as it had gas previously but it was removed by the previous owner. Im removing the aux tank that its running off at the moment as I dont need that much fuel. I was wondering if anyone has any hints and tips or maybe a basic procedure for removing the aux tank safely and any prep I shoukd be aware of for installing the new main tank under the back ie priming fuel system or prepping the tank internals. The tank came off a rb30 carby gq and has the low fuel light on the sender so im assuming I just tape it up and only connect the main two wires.
Cheers
Steve

[Bloodyaussie]

Mate why would you want to get rid of the other tank??

The RB30 does that have a small pump that helps a mechanical pump??

As I mentioned my experience is with the tb42e.

Did this tank come with the stock filler neck or did you already have that, if not you may find one on here as a number of us of late have been installing twin filler necks for the running of 2 tanks.

The work is pretty straight forward but depending on what gear you have.. eg the tank sender in your aux tank has been cut down and will not work in a main tank.. I do have one of those senders here I got from Matty but did not need it.

Hopefully this has bumped things up for you so others may help !!!

[MudRunnerTD]

Yeah I am with BA I would not remove the Long Range Sub tank mate but would just fit the rear main tank with standard sender unit that allows to pump then you can pump and draw from either tank and you will have a great touring fuel capacity if you ever want it.

[scubasteve]

Yeah I am with BA I would not remove the Long Range Sub tank mate but would just fit the rear main tank with standard sender unit that allows to pump then you can pump and draw from either tank and you will have a great touring fuel capacity if you ever want it.

Im not touring with it and dont see the need for the second tank so I feel it would just complicate things. Im only using the car for a weekend bush car and im trying to work on a pretty tight budget so if im never going to use the full capacity I may as well sell off the long range and try and keep my total expense down. The stock tank itself is out of an rb30 patrol but im installing it into a tb42s maverick so from what I can tell it only has the one mechanical fuel pump.

[scubasteve]

Mate why would you want to get rid of the other tank??

The RB30 does that have a small pump that helps a mechanical pump??

As I mentioned my experience is with the tb42e.

Did this tank come with the stock filler neck or did you already have that, if not you may find one on here as a number of us of late have been installing twin filler necks for the running of 2 tanks.

The work is pretty straight forward but depending on what gear you have.. eg the tank sender in your aux tank has been cut down and will not work in a main tank.. I do have one of those senders here I got from Matty but did not need it.

Hopefully this has bumped things up for you so others may help !!!

I have the full set up for the stock tank including sender and filler neck and the aux tank itself doesnt look like its got the build quality of a proper long range tank more looks like a home made job than anything. I wont know too much until I drop it out I guess. I just dont want to remove somethig I shouldnt and end up with fuel everywhere

[Bloodyaussie]

Fair enough mate... now depending on the gas fitter how much work there is to do.. Many cut the metal fuel lines so they no longer run the full length and you will need some fuel hose to extent there length to the original position.

Also the original plug for the sender and other electrics should be there but with a makeshift loom made to plumb into your aux tank and if you have all the right gear it should be a simple plug and play affair.

When running fuel lines and mounting in the tank pay attention to how the lines run as it is easy to kink the lines once you put the tank into its position.

I have draws that make it not possible to fit up the fuel lines from above and this made things a bit tricky but not impossible.

I used a large trolley jack to put the tank into place while fitting the bolts for the tank and guard.

You can fit the tank first with only a couple of bolts then add the guard and fit the remainder of the bolts.

It is all very straight forward and nothing is too difficult.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

[scubasteve]

Ok so the lines have been cut just before the diff and the tail section is still there. Because the pipes are now just cut straight is it normal to just attach the flexible fuel lines onto the pipe? Obviously the original ends are flared a bit to help hold the lines on but now they arent flared. Is it goin to be strong enough to just use some screw hose clamps or do I need to do anything else?

[madgq]

Best thing I ever did was fit both tanks

[burden2]

Mine had been fitted with LPG and a belly tank but the gas was removed before I bought it so there was space for the second tank and being out here in Mt Isa I figured that the second tank would give me a better range between fills if I go bush or go travelling. Got a tank off a bloke in town (was a diesel tank but fits in there, just piping differences for pumps etc) and the only struggle I had was with the filler hose to the aux tank, there is limited room in there and the hose that had been used to fill the belly tank was bloody near impossible to bend. I had built a two neck filler to use on the set up and in the end I bent some exhaust tube to move the belly tank hose out of the way when I bolted up the secondary tank filler hose, all worked out well in the end.

[Marti]

iv done this same procedure. but i kept the belly tank and used it as a sub tank to pump into the main. if your wanting to get rid of the belly tankt then you will need to extend the fuel send and return lines to from the sub tank to the main tank. youll also need to extend the fuel sender wires so you can still use the factory gauge, other than that bolting in the main tank is 6 bolt

and as Burden said, the belly tank piping is a pain in the ass to move around, also before fitting the main tank make sure you fit your filler and breathers before putting it in.as its very hard to do once the tank is in because there is pretty much no room to get your hands in