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View Full Version : 2 Din head unit flashes from day to night mode when rh indicator and brakes are on.



mudski
4th June 2014, 03:55 PM
So I have had this issue since I can remember. Its done it with the previous 2din head unit aswell.
I am sitting at the lights, foot on the brake pedal and right indicator on and the day/ night mode screen flashes between the two in sync with the indicator. I take my foot off the brake and it goes away. I put the left indicator on and it doesn't do it. Something I have also noticed, whether this is just a coincidence or not, I won't do it first thing in the morning, say when everything is cold. But having said that, it may still do it, its only because its not something you will look for when you first jump in the car for the day.
Where would I start looking? I am thinking because it only does it with the right indicator on, it must me related to a connection or earthing to one of the indicators. Maybe. But it stops when I take my foot off the brake. So I am a bit stuck on where to look first.

Thanks.

04OFF
4th June 2014, 04:42 PM
Sounds like could be a bad earth, try earthing the chassis of the radio directly to earth first (easy place to start)

paulyg
4th June 2014, 05:51 PM
Hey mudski did you use after market adapters to connect the wiring? or did you hard wire it?
If you hard wired it try getting power from some where else.

the evil twin
4th June 2014, 07:28 PM
If your Head Unit is connected to your dash lights as most are then you've got a bad earth somewhere on the RHS indicator lamps.

Some but not all of the current is finding its way to earth via the clearance lamps.
This voltage will also be sensed at the dash lighting but may not be enough to notice during the day.
The brake lights are raising the current flow as well

This is enough to trick the head unit into thinking the clearance lamps are... on...off...on...off...on... ergo... night...day...night...day etc

Could be other things but the first place I would check is your Trailer Plug if you have one and after that the light assy's for corrosion etc on the bulb holders

mudski
4th June 2014, 09:35 PM
Hey mudski did you use after market adapters to connect the wiring? or did you hard wire it?
If you hard wired it try getting power from some where else.

Using an adapter mate...

Thanks for the tips guys. Bad earth looks like the culprit maybe. Would just pulling the globe from one light at a time work if it was an earth issue?

the evil twin
5th June 2014, 01:03 AM
Using an adapter mate...

Thanks for the tips guys. Bad earth looks like the culprit maybe. Would just pulling the globe from one light at a time work if it was an earth issue?

Quite possibly... but check your trailer plug first (if you have one).

mudski
5th June 2014, 12:56 PM
Quite possibly... but check your trailer plug first (if you have one).

My trailer plug sits in where the jack lives and is wired using flat 7core. It was doing this issue before I changed it to this way but I will look anyhow. Funny thing is, driving all today it did not do it once. Its been raining here a bit so maybe that has something to do with it...

Bloodyaussie
5th June 2014, 07:03 PM
It's all your dodgy wiring mate !!! flame suit on !!!!!!!

the evil twin
5th June 2014, 07:43 PM
My trailer plug sits in where the jack lives and is wired using flat 7core. It was doing this issue before I changed it to this way but I will look anyhow. Funny thing is, driving all today it did not do it once. Its been raining here a bit so maybe that has something to do with it...

Cool, sounds like it won't be a trailer plug then.

FWIW many types of corrosion go lower resistance when damp so that will give a better, but still crappy, electrical path.

mudski
5th June 2014, 09:51 PM
Thanks ET. I might have to wait until it does it again and be ready....

mudski
5th June 2014, 09:52 PM
It's all your dodgy wiring mate !!! silk suit and tin foil hat on !!!!!!!
Says he with the birds nest under his dash!!!
.
.
.
Fixed it for ya too matee!!!

the evil twin
5th June 2014, 10:52 PM
Thanks ET. I might have to wait until it does it again and be ready....

... or drive thru a car wash before every trip :animierte-smilies-t

mudski
11th June 2014, 08:43 PM
You wouldn't believe it. It has not done it once since last week.

Robo
13th June 2014, 04:26 PM
You have an bull bar fitted?. and tow bar?.

My GU's "Factory fitted alloy b/bar" was wired with those dreaded scotch locks.
poor connections they are, if they don't completely cut the wires.
any way, had a similar problem right blinker having trouble earthing through the correct path to ground.
earth was finding it's way through parker light to ground, parker was flashing instead of flasher, wtf.
fixed by removing s/lock , soldered wires and self amalgamating tape to reseal.

hope that helps

Paule
13th June 2014, 04:38 PM
You have an bull bar fitted?. and tow bar?.

My GU's "Factory fitted alloy b/bar" was wired with those dreaded scotch locks.
poor connections they are, if they don't completely cut the wires.
any way, had a similar problem right blinker having trouble earthing through the correct path to ground.
earth was finding it's way through parker light to ground, parker was flashing instead of flasher, wtf.
fixed by removing s/lock , soldered wires and self amalgamating tape to reseal.

hope that helps

This might not help mudski but it helps me I've got the exact same thing happening to my troll,

Robo
13th June 2014, 04:59 PM
This might not help mudski but it helps me I've got the exact same thing happening to my troll,

I relies its a long shot, but spreading the news could help.
seems it has already in less than 1/4hr for you.
cheers.

mudski
13th June 2014, 06:45 PM
No scotch locks in my car Robo. Everything is soldered.
I can't figure it out. It hasnt done it for nearly a week now.

the evil twin
13th June 2014, 09:20 PM
Welcome to the world of electronics, mate.

Slightly off topic but I was reduced to tears trying to sort a wiring problem in my younger days.
It was (believe it or not) a wire that had continuity in one polarity but was open cct the other.
Because it was easier to get to the "wrong" end it would look OK on a test meter but DC wouldn't flow thru the bastard thing. Took me friggin' ages to figure it out.
It was a solid conductor that was broken inside the sheath so it was acting like a point contact diode

It was quite a few years ago now and I have lost the wire in my moves around OZ... won me a beer on more than a few occassions

Robo
14th June 2014, 05:13 PM
No scotch locks in my car Robo. Everything is soldered.
I can't figure it out. It hasnt done it for nearly a week now.

I was very surprised to see these crap items being used to couple up to such a thin wire.
Reading you said blinker was involved, it could of been a remote possibility.
Is it possible poor earth in lamp fitting instead, dirt build up maybe?.

mudski
14th June 2014, 06:39 PM
I was very surprised to see these crap items being used to couple up to such a thin wire.
Reading you said blinker was involved, it could of been a remote possibility.
Is it possible poor earth in lamp fitting instead, dirt build up maybe?.

Its been raining off an on for over a week so the moisture has something to do with it for sure. I'll have to wait until it does it again to find the culprit.

Robo
15th June 2014, 03:47 PM
Try using a hose at least you can then control where the water is going to further narrow it down.

mudski
1st July 2014, 10:33 PM
Since posting this it still hasn't done it. It usually will do it every day, give or take, but not since.

cjb
2nd July 2014, 10:31 PM
Sounds like you have the dimmer wire connected to the indicator wire not the dash lights

mudski
2nd July 2014, 10:52 PM
Definitely not as if I did it would do it all the time.

Robo
4th July 2014, 02:17 AM
So how did we go any news

mudski
22nd October 2014, 04:00 PM
So how did we go any news

Late reply but, I ran an extra earth wire from the earth of the indicator to the body. All fixed. Now when I press on the brake pedal, it happens. Not all the time though. I think I will run another earth lead from the -ive of the battery to the chassis and see what happens.

threedogs
22nd October 2014, 07:20 PM
Bloody GUs and their earth problems.
I know Toyota earth different sections of the 4x4 like
engine bay, cabin and cargo area, motor to chassis and body to engine/chassis
but I suppose you can never have enough earth straps eh

mudski
23rd October 2014, 10:48 AM
Yeah I think I might do, -ive to chassis, and chassis to engine aswell. To be sure, to be sure...

Yendor
23rd October 2014, 03:01 PM
Are you running LEDs in your tail lights? If so try replacing the high mount led with a standard bulb and see how that goes.

mudski
23rd October 2014, 04:30 PM
Are you running LEDs in your tail lights? If so try replacing the high mount led with a standard bulb and see how that goes.

Yeah I am Rodney, but not all. But the original issue with the indicators was prior to the LEDs. The only globes that aren't led is the brake light on the barn door, the indicators and stop tails in the rear quarter lights. The rear lower indicators have resistors fitted. Do I need them for the brake lights too?

Yendor
23rd October 2014, 04:50 PM
I think when the problem was happening with your indicator that was an earthing issue, sounds like that has been resolved with the earth strap.

It sounds like you already have enough load on the stop light circuit. If you have a resistor handy you can try putting it on the tail light.

Before you do that connect a voltmeter to one of the tail lights. For ease it can be the tail light feed in the trailer plug. With you foot on the brakes what is the reading?

Edit... the resistor fitted to the tail lights is only for testing purposes. It will generate too much heat if left fitted when the park lights were tuned on.

mudski
23rd October 2014, 05:17 PM
I think when the problem was happening with your indicator that was an earthing issue, sounds like that has been resolved with the earth strap.

It sounds like you already have enough load on the stop light circuit. If you have a resistor handy you can try putting it on the tail light.

Before you do that connect a voltmeter to one of the tail lights. For ease it can be the tail light feed in the trailer plug. With you foot on the brakes what is the reading?

Edit... the resistor fitted to the tail lights is only for testing purposes. It will generate too much heat if left fitted when the park lights were tuned on.

Ah yes it will too...
I'll go check the voltage tomorrow. Thanks.

Yendor
25th October 2014, 11:31 AM
If you don't want to muck around with it and your tail and stop lights are working correctly, you can fit a relay to the tail light circuit to isolate it.

The easiest place to fit the relay would be in the passengers side kick panel. The harness for the tail lights runs through there. The tail light wire is a blue with a black trace.

mudski
30th October 2014, 03:42 PM
Thanks Rodney. I really appreciate your input. I'm just trying madly to get my camper finished for this weekend. Just gotta fit up this volt and amp gauge with the shunt then I'm onto this if I have time before this weekend.

bindi
31st October 2014, 09:41 PM
Hi Mudski, I bet you've got a reverse camera linked into your double din unit?

Display cuts out occasionally
•If the screen goes black when you apply brakes or indicator, this is related to the reverse camera trigger wire cause by small voltage jumping to the trigger wire from the brake light or indicator.
- A common inline diode such as Part#: 1N4001 - 1N4007 will need to be added between the trigger wire and the reverse light positive. Ensure the diode is around the correct way.

Its an easy job and I have one of these diodes spare which you can have if this is your problem. Save pissing around testing earths etc. My dig options double din system did this until I put the diode in. The diode fits in the live feed from the reverse light to the din unit (easiest place to fit is in the back near the reverse light)

Cheers
Mark

mudski
14th November 2014, 04:31 PM
Hi Mudski, I bet you've got a reverse camera linked into your double din unit?

Display cuts out occasionally
•If the screen goes black when you apply brakes or indicator, this is related to the reverse camera trigger wire cause by small voltage jumping to the trigger wire from the brake light or indicator.
- A common inline diode such as Part#: 1N4001 - 1N4007 will need to be added between the trigger wire and the reverse light positive. Ensure the diode is around the correct way.

Its an easy job and I have one of these diodes spare which you can have if this is your problem. Save pissing around testing earths etc. My dig options double din system did this until I put the diode in. The diode fits in the live feed from the reverse light to the din unit (easiest place to fit is in the back near the reverse light)

Cheers
Mark

Sorry for the late reply.... yes I do have a reverse camera. The display has cut out maybe five times in the 2 years it's been in. Its the issue of the night mode coming on when i apply the brakes. I think I have some diodes already when Yendor guided me through how to make the angle eyes go off when the headlights are turned on. Little black thing with a silver stripe.
But I can't see how this is related to the issue at hand. Unless it is...
thanks.

mudski
14th November 2014, 04:38 PM
I think when the problem was happening with your indicator that was an earthing issue, sounds like that has been resolved with the earth strap.

It sounds like you already have enough load on the stop light circuit. If you have a resistor handy you can try putting it on the tail light.

Before you do that connect a voltmeter to one of the tail lights. For ease it can be the tail light feed in the trailer plug. With you foot on the brakes what is the reading?

Edit... the resistor fitted to the tail lights is only for testing purposes. It will generate too much heat if left fitted when the park lights were tuned on.

O.k I finally got out to do this test. 12.2v is the reading with tail lights on, 12.1v with the brake applied. What does this tell you?

aazn
22nd December 2014, 03:19 AM
run a new ground to the body of the car, then if your still having the problems get your multimeter out and check how good the ground is through the illumination wire on the OEM harness.