G9 ST model, locked hub on 2WD?

[jm2004]

Hi All,

Today is only my 9th day of owning a Patrol, so my questions would reflect that (still newby). I've searched and read quite a number of threads in this forum and also read the manual of the vehicle. And my understanding / questions are:

1) Our GUs don't have centre diff, the transfer gears are connected constantly to the rear and if we engage 4WD, it connects to the front as well (Y/N?)
Hence 4WD (H or L) is only recommended on loose grounds, not on hard surfaces.

2) With the ST, the idea of auto hub is for convenience i.e. they self lock when sensing the 4WD has been engaged, as well as when unlocked it means the axles won't turn thus less wear and fuel consumption (Y/N?)
I also read and saw photos about the possibility to remove a piece in the hub so it'll be either locked or totally not (just like the manual hub on DX model)

3) The DX's model vehicle manual suggests to lock the hubs once a month to ensure that the axle etc are moving and properly lubricated, but there is no mention of having to do the same on ST model with auto hub. Now my question, so long as I stay in 2WD, I don't see why it will damage the mechanism if I lock the hub on bitumen from time to time? I thought I read somewhere somebody doing this but I was unable to find that thread again, so comments on this would be most appreciated.

Sorry if these are repeat questions, but it's a little overwhelming to read all those threads :-)

Thanks in advance,

[MudRunnerTD]

The Toyota only has the centre diff as they are full time 4wd be design and actually are an SUV by design meaning that they can be bogged with 1 wheel loosing traction. The centre diff lock is required by them to provide drive to the front and the back. The Nissane Patrol is King and the Toyota centre Difflock is designed to help them try to be as good as the Patrol.

The auto hubs self select when you select 4h or 4L and the front drive shaft spins the axles and locks the hubs automatically. You should avoid selecting 4wd when on bitumen as you can cause front diff wind up and put pressure on the CVs. With the auto hubs you can't lock the hubs and stay in 2wd. With manual hubs unlocked you can select 4l and remain in 2wd which can be handy when towing up a big mountain.

I would not be too concerned about spinning up the front, if you see a but of dirt then certainly select once a month for piece of mind.

Hope that helps and welcome mate.

[bindi]

Hi Mudrunner

I'm a new owner too and pleased that JM2004 asked these questions..........so.........you are saying that we shouldn't drive in 4wd whilst on sealed roads? I ask because I live out in the sticks, but still on a sealed road but usually covered in leaves and cow dung/mud so sometimes very slippy.

I have noticed that when I engaged 4wd today the car really struggled when manoeuvring slowly on half to full lock, particularly in reverse.

I'd really like the convenience of just being able to pull over and engage 4wd if the roads look a bit crappy, without risking damaging the car or causing premature wear and tear.

Can you elaborate please for both JM and me?
cheers

[MudRunnerTD]

You can switch between 2wd and 4H on the fly upto 80km/h. You can switch back too. ;) you must come to a full stop to switch from 4H to 4L and back though.

If the bitumen has limited or No turned and is mainly a straight road then you will be fine, avoid doing like a U Turn on Bitumen though, if you have to make it slow. In 4L my LSD rear will maintain Full Lock and screech the rear tyres when doing a sharp turn on Bitumen!! Crazy good.

Rear diff wind up when locked in 4wd is pretty full on.

[threedogs]

On a similar note if you struggle to re select 2 wd High try reversing for 20 mtrs or so to "Un wind" the axles
You may need to reverse more , but at least now you know why

[jm2004]

You can switch between 2wd and 4H on the fly upto 80km/h. You can switch back too. ;) you must come to a full stop to switch from 4H to 4L and back though.

If the bitumen has limited or No turned and is mainly a straight road then you will be fine, avoid doing like a U Turn on Bitumen though, if you have to make it slow. In 4L my LSD rear will maintain Full Lock and screech the rear tyres when doing a sharp turn on Bitumen!! Crazy good.

Rear diff wind up when locked in 4wd is pretty full on.

Thanks to Mudrunner and threedogs with your kind advices. Nice to hear from you Bindi. The manual states that when the hubs are locked, you can shift from 2H to 4H at up to 80km/h (when hubs are on auto it drops to max 40km/h).

To my understanding now, when the road constantly changes between loose and hard surfaces, sounds like locking the hubs is the way to go, so long that we don't forget to ensure that on prolonged bitumen drive we keep it on 2H. I believe I read somewhere on this forum that somebody keeps the hubs locked all the time and didn't experience problems (presume he/she keeps on 2H unless on loose surface).

Edit: forgot to mention, with our GU9s, we no longer have LSD at the back (as I'm sure most of you know). Instead Nissan opts for standard open diff but lockable. The "LSD" effect was replaced by using traction control.

Cheers,

[MudRunnerTD]

Thanks to Mudrunner and threedogs with your kind advices. Nice to hear from you Bindi. The manual states that when the hubs are locked, you can shift from 2H to 4H at up to 80km/h (when hubs are on auto it drops to max 40km/h).

To my understanding now, when the road constantly changes between loose and hard surfaces, sounds like locking the hubs is the way to go, so long that we don't forget to ensure that on prolonged bitumen drive we keep it on 2H. I believe I read somewhere on this forum that somebody keeps the hubs locked all the time and didn't experience problems (presume he/she keeps on 2H unless on loose surface).

Edit: forgot to mention, with our GU9s, we no longer have LSD at the back (as I'm sure most of you know). Instead Nissan opts for standard open diff but lockable. The "LSD" effect was replaced by using traction control.

Cheers,

Yes you have the factory Diff Lock. Happy days. I have auto Hubs on my GUIV and only lock them if i am spending a long time offroad. Touring and such. I would not run them permanently locked. I would and do run them permanently Auto.

I have never had a problem shifting on the Fly upto 80km/h and would not hesitate to do this.

In terms of soft and hard surfaces, a "Hard Surface" is bitumen and concrete. something that offers full grip and no ability to slip. A hard gravel road is not this and i would have no hesitation running in 4wdH when on a Gravel road.

If the Bitumen road is a winding mountain road the avoid 4H at all costs.

[Col.T]

G'day JM and Bindi,
Mine's an 08 model and I have occasional trouble with the front hubs. A loud whirring/clicking sound which stops with a loud clunking bump when I stop.I then have to reverse under load for a while until it audibly clicks out of 4WD. Seems the system reads somehow that 4 has been selected when it hasn't and doesn't fully engage.
Suspect it has been caused by the previous owner going in and out of 4WD on the run and on bitumen surfaces. Don't know the mechanics as I've serviced it and am somewhat familiar with both the 'new' automatic and old manual engaging systems. Something is worn in the hub but not obvious to the eye.
An old f**ts suggestion. Love the patrol. It's got us in and out of some wonderful places BUT treat it like it's a tractor, not some Euro poofie AWD/SUV. Only engage 4 when you fair dinkum need it. Then get out and manually lock the front hubs. Just like the old days.
Possibly irrelevant for the latest models (don't know what they've got) but I like to keep it simple.
Regards
Col

[Bulbous]

I believe I read somewhere on this forum that somebody keeps the hubs locked all the time and didn't experience problems (presume he/she keeps on 2H unless on loose surface).


Absolutely no problem keeping the hubs locked, ALL the patrols in the Middle East come without hubs. They're permanently connected.

The only thing you might find is that fuel consumption goes up a little bit with the extra load of turning the axles and shafts instead of just the wheels.

[the evil twin]

snip
With the auto hubs you can't lock the hubs and stay in 2wd.

Please excuse the snip.

Uuuummm, I think I know what you meant but as it is writ thats not quite right cobber.


For the OP...
Once a month or so all you have to do is lock the hubs with the wheel socket (move from Auto to Lock) and leave the transfer lever in 2WD.

Further to that...
For a big day of 4WD'ing or some really gnarly stuff you should always lock the "auto hubs" using this method so that they don't get damaged or unlock inadvertently.
The Auto hubs are not designed for that type of work in "auto" and like the "manual hubs" should be manually locked but most of us are too lazy.
In most cases that is why they play up because we don't lock them appropriate to what we are doing.
Well, that and over greasing.

Almost 100% sure that is the owners manual somewhere but could be wrong

[MudRunnerTD]

^^^^^^ what he said mate.

ET I was most concerned that the OP suggested he had read that someone left the front hubs permanently locked and just slipped in and out of 4wd at will. I would not recommend this to anyone unless your going into 4wd every day.

[the evil twin]

Too right mate

[Bulbous]

^^^^^^ what he said mate.

ET I was most concerned that the OP suggested he had read that someone left the front hubs permanently locked and just slipped in and out of 4wd at will. I would not recommend this to anyone unless your going into 4wd every day.

Can you explain why you make this statement please?

[MudRunnerTD]

Can you explain why you make this statement please?

Simply on a wear and tear basis and extra fuel costs for turning stuff you don't need. I respect the the Middle East spec patrols don't have selectable hubs but they also don't have the fuel and running costs as they do here and generally see far more off road than we do.