K&N air filters

[Antpenny]

Do K&N filters increase power? There expensive! They use oil to trap dust apparently? That sounds like a nightmare to upkeep..

[MEGOMONSTER]

well they increase air flow, in turn giving a little more power.
very easy to clean from the inside out, let air dry, then re-oil.
i have two filters that i can just swap and clean and re oil when ever i feel like it.
they are a little pricey but you only buy once and just keep reusing it.
i just replace after any dusty trip and at service intervals.

[Winnie]

I have a K&N filter. They work well and any increase in air volume is welcome.
Although our last Dargo trip was so dusty and when I got home and looked at my filter I couldn't believe it, I won't run a K&N filter on a trip like that again, I will buy a paper filter and throw it out after the trip.

[BigRAWesty]

Those trips is when you need a snorkel sock..

[Bloodyaussie]

I use both... for trips away I use a paper filter and keep a spare but for around town or highway trips keep the K&N in.... found the K&N gets so clogged up on real dusty trips.

[Winnie]

I use both... for trips away I use a paper filter and keep a spare but for around town or highway trips keep the K&N in.... found the K&N gets so clogged up on real dusty trips.

I should have taken a photo of my filter... it was disgusting!

[nissannewby]

I have a K&N filter. They work well and any increase in air volume is welcome.
Although our last Dargo trip was so dusty and when I got home and looked at my filter I couldn't believe it, I won't run a K&N filter on a trip like that again, I will buy a paper filter and throw it out after the trip.

Your thinking is wrong. K&N filter better at all stages of life than a paper filter. If anything run a paper filter on the road and k&n in dusty conditions.

Honestly mate k&n all the way. They filter better at higher air speeds than a paper element ever will and will filter better longer in dusty conditions. Obviously as the filter clogs the restriction increases so air speeds increase so this is where the k&n comes into its own.

[the evil twin]

I agree with nissannewby on this.

I don't quite see the logic you blokes are using in taking out a filter that is proven to be filtering the dust out and putting in one that is letting the shit in when you go into dusty conditions?

Yes, you can throw the paper one away but, Jeez Louise, think of all the poo your engine has swallowed. Logically you should be doing it the other way around

[Bloodyaussie]

Hmmmmm.......... !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Winnie]

Your thinking is wrong. K&N filter better at all stages of life than a paper filter. If anything run a paper filter on the road and k&n in dusty conditions.

Honestly mate k&n all the way. They filter better at higher air speeds than a paper element ever will and will filter better longer in dusty conditions. Obviously as the filter clogs the restriction increases so air speeds increase so this is where the k&n comes into its own.

Interesting... thanks for that Matt.

[Clunk]

So what you're saying is....... K&N filter is far better no matter what environment you're driving in?

[lhurley]

Can a k&n be blown out with an air compressor??

If the can be, surely a quick clean up with the air gun at a stop on a dusty trip is a winner.

[nissannewby]

So what you're saying is....... K&N filter is far better no matter what environment you're driving in?

Pretty much. As Winnie said his filter looked disgusting after a dargo trip and his original thought was to use a paper element cos visually the stay cleaner but guess where that dust goes?

Use the filter in the zd30/td42t GU's as an example. Nissan genuine ones are ok as they Are a oil impregnated medium. A paper element once air speeds are increased there filtering potential is greatly diminished to the point where they basically only filter rocks lol. A k&n will still filter as well at air speeds of 12m/sec as it does at air speeds of 4m/sec.

You can get a paper element to work but you need to reduce air speeds to help it do so. Having an induction system with no or very little restriction is the key with an air box that allows all the surface area of the filter to be used. This is why 4" snorkels and custom air boxes are popular when increasing performance on td42's

[nissannewby]

Can a k&n be blown out with an air compressor??

If the can be, surely a quick clean up with the air gun at a stop on a dusty trip is a winner.

It's not ideal no. Mego's idea is a winner here and the cleaning kits for a k&n are small and easily storable. A quick tap out will help. Remember while they might not flow as well as they start to clog they still filter very well.

[Clunk]

Pretty much. As Winnie said his filter looked disgusting after a dargo trip and his original thought was to use a paper element cos visually the stay cleaner but guess where that dust goes?

Use the filter in the zd30/td42t GU's as an example. Nissan genuine ones are ok as they Are a oil impregnated medium. A paper element once air speeds are increased there filtering potential is greatly diminished to the point where they basically only filter rocks lol. A k&n will still filter as well at air speeds of 12m/sec as it does at air speeds of 4m/sec.

You can get a paper element to work but you need to reduce air speeds to help it do so. Having an induction system with no or very little restriction is the key with an air box that allows all the surface area of the filter to be used. This is why 4" snorkels and custom air boxes are popular when increasing performance on td42's

Thanks mate, superb explanation as always

[OldMav]

Your thinking is wrong. K&N filter better at all stages of life than a paper filter. If anything run a paper filter on the road and k&n in dusty conditions.

Honestly mate k&n all the way. They filter better at higher air speeds than a paper element ever will and will filter better longer in dusty conditions. Obviously as the filter clogs the restriction increases so air speeds increase so this is where the k&n comes into its own.

Very nice Mat you actually do take note eh... And you are correct our ZD air box and paper elements will pass rocks when the front 1/3 gets full in dusty conditions due to restriction hence air speeds past 4 metre/sec. A K&N in the same air box will filter all dust particles above 7 micron no matter how clogged it is, but will restrict air flow enough to lower power in that condition. The odd thing is due to the oil and the method it collects on the surface the filter can look terrible but it does suggest it is working as intended, just have a think about that, and imagine have you ever seen that much dust on your paper element. You have to wonder how well your paper element is actually working or where has all that dust gone.. I think logic should suggest to you which is better..

[Bloodyaussie]

I learnt something new today.... Thanks Matty!!

[Winnie]

I will say that I was surprised how well the K&N filter cleaned up

[04OFF]

Do the K&N filters come with a seperate outer dry pre filter that slips over the main oiled filter ? (like uni filters)





I always thought the idea of the round drum air cleaner box was for the cyclonic effect ?, as the air curculates the dirt is thrown to the outside ?


Using a paper filter you may find dirt/dust in the bottom of the air cleaner box, it was my un-educated impression, an "oiled" filter would "catch" swirling dust particles, rather than letting fall to the bottom like a paper filter will ?


I thought the K&Ns would actually visually clog quicker in dusty conditions because its sticky and won't let go of any dust ?





I run a paper filter and a external foam snorkel pre filter, and had avoided a K&N for the above reasons, but now may be interested in a K&N main filter, after what Mat has said (thanks Mat, more crap to buy now !, lol)

[nissannewby]

If the air box is designed it that manner then yes but the ones in our patrol aren't. The Donaldson style cylindrical housings with the filter arrangement you describe have plastic fins at the entry and make the air travel up to the element before being drawn through it. The sizing is what sucks about them as to get something for our required flow rates it wouldn't fit under the bonnet.

They may clog quicker but they are catching all the dust. I have never had a layer of dust in the bottom of my airbox using a paper element and as above it has to go somewhere.

You get the benefit of the added flow with better filtration and you can still run your snorkel head pre cleaner so it doesn't get dirty as quick.

[04OFF]

I have never had a layer of dust in the bottom of my airbox using a paper element and as above it has to go somewhere.

.

Well.....you have been the first car in the convoy lots, and as you know, the last car gets soooooo much more dust, mmmm, perhaps i need to learn where im going so i can lead more often (lol) :hpfredgeorge1:




Mine is a 4.5L and so runs a slightly different configuration air box from factory, the air box sits on a weird angle too.

[OldMav]

Seeing Matt only half answered your questions I will add in your post.

Do the K&N filters come with a seperate outer dry pre filter that slips over the main oiled filter ? (like uni filters)

No the purpose of the fluted design is surface area a uni filter is a oil foam construction they work well but do suffer air flow compared to a K&N due to element surface area.

I always thought the idea of the round drum air cleaner box was for the cyclonic effect ?, as the air curculates the dirt is thrown to the outside ?

Not really its more to do with element surface area with respect to element size. There is many positives with the Donaldson one being they filter well when sized correctly to flow capacity actually down to 4 micron when air speeds are below 4 metres/sec. They are a big element so service life is very good. BUT having tested many Donaldson's on a flow bench and no dust so perfect conditions they flow very well to their stated flow capacity. But they were designed for heavy machinery in low rev or constant rev engines, they were not designed for fast flexible ever changing high revs engines. They fail quite badly at air accelerations imposed by our turbo charged high rev diesel engines which can require air flow accelerations from 50 cfm to 500+cfm in a few seconds. The Donaldson type air box can see very high restrictions when this type of accelerations happen which will severally impede your turbo to spool hence driveability which is our main aim in a modern car or 4x4. In saying that they do a lot better job at accelerations and filtration than a ZD type air box with any type of element fitted..


Using a paper filter you may find dirt/dust in the bottom of the air cleaner box, it was my un-educated impression, an "oiled" filter would "catch" swirling dust particles, rather than letting fall to the bottom like a paper filter will ?

The dust you see in the outside bottom is fine dust or dust particles fallen off the element but the amount is tiny compared to what has been collected in the flutes of the paper element, the K&N collects all particles in the core of the element against the oiled cloth median. For a good design air box you will see fine dust particles in your induction system after the element if you have any oil in the post element tubing you will see a lot of dust but for a good designed air box these particles will be smaller than 7 micron which is proven fact will do no damage to the modern engine. K&N has a oil median so you will get oil spread through out your post element induction system so this fine dust will be collected on this oil, it looks bad but these particles are less than 7 micron so no damage to your engine FACT. (many 4x4 margarine article writers have no idea including the very best of them) Now sadly our ZD airbox cannot and will not keep air accelerations air speeds below 4 meters/ sec so the dust you see inside your post element are particles well above 7 micron. I have only done one field test on a ZD air box with a sticky 30x30mm test sample in the air box elbow. These tests are damn expensive hence only one test but that test piece was a 10 minute run behind an another 4x4 on a dirt road following quite close the sticky had 11.5% of it test sticky area with particles above 7 micron and some of those particles were as large as 80 micron. So in my learned opinion the ZD airbox is total fail with a paper element.


I thought the K&Ns would actually visually clog quicker in dusty conditions because its sticky and won't let go of any dust ?

Yep you have the right idea "wont let go of any dust" that's exactly what we want. So what if you have to clean it a bit more often, but just because it looks clogged or terrible that doesn't mean it isn't doing it's job as intended. You will feel power loss when it is clogged or fuel usage increases..


I run a paper filter and a external foam snorkel pre filter, and had avoided a K&N for the above reasons, but now may be interested in a K&N main filter, after what Mat has said (thanks Mat, more crap to buy now !, lol)

Maybe you should believe your eyes and not your heart with elements. oh I forgot the TB45 airbox is only slightly better than the ZD system its flow capacity to .5 inchers of mercury is only slightly more, it still has the same issues with air speeds, lol but its a TB45 haha it may not have the ability to produce 4 metre/sec air speeds hehe

[04OFF]

Awesome Oldmav, thanks for taking the time to explain that better for me :cheers:

Ive used K&Ns in my performance road cars for years, discussions ive heard/read, put me off the idea about them for dusty off roading , (campfire old wives tales I guess) as ive done pretty much zero testing myself, id thought what people said about not using them had made some sense at the time, the fact you have actually tested it properly in real world conditions is excellent.






. oh I forgot the TB45 airbox is only slightly better than the ZD system its flow capacity to .5 inchers of mercury is only slightly more, it still has the same issues with air speeds, lol but its a TB45 haha it may not have the ability to produce 4 metre/sec air speeds hehe
Yes, but unlike a ZD30, at least the TB45 has a better chance of staying "together", long enough for dust ingestion to become a problem ! :blowup: (haha)






.:wink:

[OldMav]

Also remember my comments are directed to the ZD air box and its paper element not all paper element boxes, many work very well, Paper or K&N With a properly designed box.
The K&N has had a lot of bad press over the years mainly from 4x4 margarines writers who made a judgment using their eyes and not their brain and some simple basic research.
To be very honest the K&N isn't the be all to end all they do have faults one being under oiling and over oiling which can interfere with maf sensors dramatically causing limp mode issues to but name a few.

[04OFF]

To be very honest the K&N isn't the be all to end all they do have faults one being under oiling and over oiling which can interfere with maf sensors dramatically causing limp mode issues to but name a few.

So is that purely from user error over/under oiling, or from oil sag/build up at the lower part of the filter over time ?

[OldMav]

So is that purely from user error over/under oiling, or from oil sag/build up at the lower part of the filter over time ?

User error only..

[Winnie]

Oldmav, I have the Patroldocta ZD30 style airbox on my TD42 with a K&N filter, is there a better option for me? I don't have a lot of room there with dual batteries either.

[nissannewby]

Oldmav, I have the Patroldocta ZD30 style airbox on my TD42 with a K&N filter, is there a better option for me? I don't have a lot of room there with dual batteries either.

Fatz fabrication may have an option.

[OldMav]

Oldmav, I have the Patroldocta ZD30 style airbox on my TD42 with a K&N filter, is there a better option for me? I don't have a lot of room there with dual batteries either.

I have tested that particular air box option I wont write the name for obvious reasons, but they are hardly better than a ZD box, The first thing you learn with air boxes is the 30mm minimum rule for all round element clearance, Then you need some system of diffusion at the inlet point to force the air to use all the element for filtration. the FATZ or 4Bfab or any of the new panel element boxes now days are a good option which can be fitted to allow the second battery.

[Bloodyaussie]

I have tested that particular air box option I wont write the name for obvious reasons, but they are hardly better than a ZD box, The first thing you learn with air boxes is the 30mm minimum rule for all round element clearance, Then you need some system of diffusion at the inlet point to force the air to use all the element for filtration. the FATZ or 4Bfab or any of the new panel element boxes now days are a good option which can be fitted to allow the second battery.

So what is the benefit of those air boxes??? I have thought they were a big pain in the arse as they take some time to open up to inspect or do maintenance on and have seen many a member not be bothered to open it up to inspect due to not being bothered..

Now I have a stock tb42e airbox that has had the blow by fitted for gas but I no longer run gas... is it worth putting back to stock?

[nissannewby]

So what is the benefit of those air boxes???

They look shiny :). They are ok until you put the filter in then there is not enough room for it to all work correctly.

[Winnie]

They do look good... hahaha.
Would there really be much benefit in getting an airbox like Oldmav suggested before for my setup, or is it more for the boys running bigger numbers?

[nissannewby]

They do look good... hahaha.
Would there really be much benefit in getting an airbox like Oldmav suggested before for my setup, or is it more for the boys running bigger numbers?

Yes. The less restriction in your intake system the easier your turbo can work. Most people when they go to one of options suggested need to reset their boost as it generally increases with the less restrictive setup.

[Alitis007]

Air filters are overrated!! Lol

[OldMav]

I will try and explain this a little. I have already pointed out some of the things that are issues with a ZD box but don't get confused with my comments. I am somewhat a idealist so I always chase the 1% improvements. Its just that the ZD type air box design is very restrictive even for the ZD engine. Its not just the air box either the STD tubing from air box to turbo is terrible even the std snorkel tubing through the GU guard is terrible, So very simply the turbo tubing is a 1%er the guard tubing is a 1% er as you can see these 1% improvements all add up so there is good driveability improvements here not Kilowatts but torque rise and how quick that torque curve rises due to the turbos ability to spool faster and the turbo shaft speed or revs can stay more constant. This stuff you can feel in the seat of your pants even though it only improves KW marginally, torque changes is the stuff you feel and makes your rig nicer to drive due to flexibility or in this case engine response.

So Winnie there is considerable improvements by having a free flowing induction system it allows the full potential of your engine to be realised. But even for your patrol doctor there are improvements to be had by a simple element change. I will post a comment from another forum which a member took on my pointed suggestions to see what would happen.

Quote follows. using a patrol doctor Air Box.. He is also a member of this forum..

"well, thought I would have a play around with different filters in the ute...


went from a Ryco A1412 to a Ryco A1504 (which is the filter that suits the 3L diesel rodeo's) and happily got some positive results.

my MAX EGT's have reduced from 550degC to 500degC.
my max boost has increased from 15psi to 17psi.
from eye, rpm and boost response seems to be a touch more responsive.

from the seat of the pants, seems a touch better then previously.


happy with that result."

So you see a simple element change has a considerable effect to driveability which should suggest to you how fail that air box really is without even considering filtration issues due to air speeds. Imagine if he had a FATZ or a Millweld or a simular panel big HP airbox with ideal induction tubing. I call these improvement things 1%ers because they increase driveability and response which is the stuff we feel and want for our rigs not outright bragging rights that big KW numbers have. Even though to get higher torque which is the stuff we feel we need KW to maintain this power, hence why I have big numbers. Big KW numbers are easy to get, more fuel more air pumped = big numbers, I broke the 200rwkw value April 1990 24 years ago but you couldn't drive the bloody thing on the road it was madness to drive. Its taken 24 years of stuffing about to get real improvements and I am still playing.

[Jimbo4x4]

I've used K&N filters in most of my 4WD's and love them , But i haven't put one in the Patrol because the other K&N's I have used have to be sprayed with oil after cleaning and didn't want to cover the MAF sensor in oil !

[04OFF]

Yeh, and fark they are spencive for a 4.5L !

[gaddy]

Yeh, and fark they are spencive for a 4.5L !

I'll give ya a $100 for your rear bar if that helps lol :)

[04OFF]

I'll give ya a $100 for your rear bar if that helps lol :)

Haha, that wont even cover the cost of the lights Stevo ! :tease:

[Col.T]

It's all a bit of philosophy and commercialism I reckon.
Back in the early, mid 20th.C. you serviced your wheels and an air filter had a foam element which you cleaned with a kero bath, dried , reoiled and but back. Lasted damn near forever and worked a treat.
21st.C. and the vast majority don't know where the bonnet release is let alone what's in there. ALSO, MOST IMPORTANTLY, the manufacturers want you to buy new every time, all the time. Answer?. Replaceable paper air filters. Dead quick, dead easy, dead profitable. Don't work as well but shoot, there's money in a replacement engine in quicker time anyway.
As always, it's a matter of time, knowledge, effort and convenience. Bit like women really. The late models look real good but expensive whilst the old one's really, really reliable and you know what you're doing and where you're going.
Cheers
Col.

[mojo53]

I use a K&N on my 2006 Y61 TD42 and they are great, easy to clean and better fuel economy (if you keep it clean) and with a snorkel so you are not sucking up to much road shit and heat a perfect match.

[Dave_H]

I've been using a K&N in my 08 crd for roughly 3 months and have found it to be alot more responsive and although i can't give all credit to the K&N (i started using 2 stroke oil) the ltrs per 100 have gone from mid 14's to mid 12's on the highway and also improved on economy around town although i have never really worked out consumption for driving around town but can see it's not being filled up as much.

Thanks for all the info Mav. I was one of the people that was lead to believe they are not designed for dusty conditions and to take a paper filter when driving dusty conditions, so i'm
Really glad i have seen this thread.

Cheers Dave

[MB]

G’day Plassy,
Started running an advised Italian ‘BMC’ filter system (K&N same same ish) a few years ago in the 6.5 ute with 10% ish seemingly good power success in our somewhat dusty hills for performance.
Shiploads easier though just 2 minute swapping an OEM $25 paper filter into the Mrs 4.2TD family wagon whenever the roads get too chalky.
Many many years ago did have a similar oil type air filter on an FJ55 and was laughed at by my Cairns mechanic before heading up the Cape and handed me 3 x paper cannister filters and a sabre saw :-)




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[Plasnart]

G’day Plassy,
Started running an advised Italian ‘BMC’ filter system (K&N same same ish) a few years ago in the 6.5 ute with 10% ish seemingly good power success in our somewhat dusty hills for performance.
Shiploads easier though just 2 minute swapping an OEM $25 paper filter into the Mrs 4.2TD family wagon whenever the roads get too chalky.
Many many years ago did have a similar oil type air filter on an FJ55 and was laughed at by my Cairns mechanic before heading up the Cape and handed me 3 x paper cannister filters and a sabre saw :-)




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I have a 1970 Honda dirt bike that uses an oiled foam air filter and just can't believe the same for the 2001 TD42T, 31 years hence, is still the way to go. But I'm open to hearing from those who know. I get it that K&N filters breathe well and that's great for the race track or drag strip, but for dusty touring??

[MB]

PeeBee is truly your airflow man here mate, and or Cuppa mate out there honestly amongst it yearly! There is a fine line I believe between restricting an OEM donk and spending ridiculous hours maintaining for at best 10% after market.
Snorkel high wise, and most importantly wise, just pull over and wait for the big trailers dust to settle for some minutes helps heaps too [emoji106][emoji106]


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[AB]

G’day Plassy,
Started running an advised Italian ‘BMC’ filter system (K&N same same ish) a few years ago in the 6.5 ute with 10% ish seemingly good power success in our somewhat dusty hills for performance.
Shiploads easier though just 2 minute swapping an OEM $25 paper filter into the Mrs 4.2TD family wagon whenever the roads get too chalky.
Many many years ago did have a similar oil type air filter on an FJ55 and was laughed at by my Cairns mechanic before heading up the Cape and handed me 3 x paper cannister filters and a sabre saw :-)




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Without it being oiled then yes it is quite opened but once oiled those gaps close up and certainly trap dust effectively.

Had mine on for a few years now and loving it, cleaning is easy.

But.....but...If I was to do a ful outback trip I would consider running a paper for the trip or make sure I'm always leading car ;)

Have checked airbox outlet to turbo many times after a dusty high country trip and havent seen any dust in the elbow to turbo so its doing its job correctly.

[PeeBee]

The filter media is whats called an open cell fabric. It relies on the oil bridging the gap like a membrane, and since the oil media is constantly vibrating, ensures there is a film like a spiders web between the structural elements of the fabric. I have run then for years with success, certainly when they are clean the engine breathes well. There are claims around their high efficiency when clogged up but I guess thats by degree and how much you talk yourself into believing it is working well. The outer skin of the filter acts like a pre filter in some regards and cracks off when it gets far enough away from the filter media to not be seeing the effect of the oil stickiness. I have returned to the K&N camp for the chev on the upgrade with as big a filter I can fit under the bonnet. They do require servicing and its a little bit of dirty effort, but the rewards are having a high efficiency filter that does what is designed to do. If you neglect them they will decrease and strangle the airflow for sure, however as an example, the Donaldson paper element fitted as standard in the N/A installation only lasts 2 trips before the engine is blowing heaps of smoke and running without throttle response. There is never any bypass on the clean side, the filter is doing its job, but feeding a $40 filter to a truck after 2 high country trips starts to get expensive over the summer when most of the trips take place.

[pspeirs]

How do people feel about restarting an old thread?

There seems to be a bit of talk about the benefits of an oiled filter over a paper filter with lots of claims that oiled is better. I've read about a couple of oil sampling tests that claim that paper filters do catch more gunk than oiled filters. What independant tests have been done on these and is there any evidence to back up the superiority of oiled filters? I can see more air getting through with an oiled filter however does this actually equate to more gunk as well?

Interested to hear opinions.

[threedogs]

I have them [K&N] more for the convienience, I run two now.
one is oiled and ready when its time to change it, plus gives it
plenty of time to "breathe" so fumes dont confuse any sensors.
They are easy to service with the correct sprays etc not as $$$$
as they used to be so very affordable IMO

[pspeirs]

The K&N are the ones sandwiched between mesh I believe. How do you feel about the foam filters like the Unifilter style. I ran them on the old Cruiser and 4Runner (am I allowed to mention the T work here?) and they seemed to trap a lot and still breath well. The inside of the filter was never dirty with the gunk only going in half way.

[PeeBee]

I also ran the Finer filters and found they worked well. Bit messier than the K&N to clean I found. Performance wise hard to compare as greatly different engines and a long time ago. What I do recall is there being minimal to zero visible migration of dirt onto the inner foam element.I am sure there would be finer particles, but nothing to the naked eye. Over time I did find the foam started to breakdown/crumble a bit, but by then I had well gotten my use out of it.

[threedogs]

Would you actually feel any performance difference, Id think it would be minimal.
As for efficiency no idea as well , ease of servicing great

[AB]

Would you actually feel any performance difference, Id think it would be minimal.
As for efficiency no idea as well , ease of servicing great

I think it will be hard to actually feel any difference of just a filter but it all adds up to be a big difference.

4” snorkel to a high flowing shaped 4” inlet outlet air box 4” straight into a turbo to IC to a good shaped inlet manifold just ramming the air inside followed by a straight through 3” exhaust to remove gases quickly as possible, etc, etc it all adds up!


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[MB]

Agreed AB and I should have added that to my “10% power increase” experienced posted (power and fuel consumption reduction by 10% too) on the 6.5NA Chev with similar BMC filter to the K&N. The real credit goes to the full system upgrade 3” to 4” intake all the way with long flowing radius bends where possible.
In regards Plasnart and his stock 4.2TD I personally see no problem as with our wagon also using $25 OEM paper jobbies to quickly swap out on the fly.
Have been known to slack off and compressed air clean them too short term if shed stocks are out and having just snorkel driven through a swarm of Termites in wing up here.
Can’t say my utes sticky element appreciates them little critters, stick like sh#t to a blanket they do!


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