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Lewy
18th April 2014, 08:28 AM
Im looking in to replacing My front disks.. I have DBA slotted's atm and after about 40,000 km they now have a disk pulse so Id say the are slightly warped... I'm looking at these DBAs Or might look at these Brembos... What are peoples thought? Any other good brands out there worth trying?

Also On the Brembo ones they say Y61 3.0L Now I was always under the assumption that all Y61s Had the same size Disks excepted for the Petrol models? I have a STL 4.2

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Brembo-SLOTTED-DISC-BRAKE-ROTORS-BRAKE-PAD-SET-NISSAN-PATROL-GU-Y61-3-0-Front-/121293891381?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c3dade735&_uhb=1

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DBA625S-DBA-T2-Front-Slotted-Rotors-x-2-to-suit-Nissan-Patrol-GU-Y61-306mm-/221165082860?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item337e7758ec&_uhb=1

Cheers and happy Easter to all

Cuppa
18th April 2014, 09:20 AM
I fitted RDA ‘grooved & dimpled’ rotors with EBC Greenstuff pads to the front of my DX & it has transformed the braking on my close to 4 tonne vehicle. Time will tell how long rotors & pads will last, but performance wise I’m very happy with them. I paid $405 all up.

That said, that Brembo combo of rotors & pads look to be very good value, & my previous experience of Brembo brakes on motorcycles would probably have seen me choose those for the Patrol if I had seen them when I was looking.

Lewy
18th April 2014, 09:23 AM
Thanks Cuppa... I must say the Brembos are grabbing My attention LOL.. They are meant to be the best after all...

pearcey
18th April 2014, 09:55 AM
Lewy
All disc`s will warp at some early stage of use. this is dew to the normalization of the metal. IE continual heating and cooling of the disc.Some times it`s bad enough to feel through the pedal or the steering and some times through both.
I would just get the old disc`s machined and fit a good set of pads

MudRunnerTD
18th April 2014, 11:35 AM
Lewy
All disc`s will warp at some early stage of use. this is dew to the normalization of the metal. IE continual heating and cooling of the disc.Some times it`s bad enough to feel through the pedal or the steering and some times through both.
I would just get the old disc`s machined and fit a good set of pads

Good post Piercey,

Mate do you know what the story is with machining slotted rotors though? I have No Idea???

That Brembo kits looks Choice!

Lewy
18th April 2014, 12:00 PM
Yes that brembo kit is looking good :-) So even though it says for the 3.0 turbo it still be the same for mine? I'm guessing yes but thought Id make sure...

pearcey
18th April 2014, 02:06 PM
G`day Guys
Slotted disc`s can be machined but if you can get them grounded it would be better.Grinding takes away any chance of getting a "rolled" edge on the slots.There are a few specialized brake shops around with the equipment to grind the disc`s.
With the Brembo brakes, if they are made for the Euro market the disc`s will have a high wear rate and you would more than likely have to replace the disc`s at every pad change. IE check out the Euro cars the black dust on the wheels is 90% disc dust not pad material Price wise it looks pretty good.

love ke70
18th April 2014, 05:56 PM
As pearcey said, the rotors likely just need a freshen up. not replacing.

but in contrary to what pearcey said, I do not agree that the rotors will be warped, I have read a few articles on this from people with the right gear and the right knowledge, and basically, they have never seen a warped rotor.
What happens when braking is its not a purely frictional arrangement, but a chemical transition of pad material to disc and disc material to pad, if you get them too hot and hold the brake on with the rotor stationary, say that scary stop on the motorway or when some bastard stops for an orange you were gunning it to make and you have to jump on the brakes, when you stop, the material transfer keeps happening and lays down extra pad material on the disc, creating a thick spot, which creates the 'warped rotor' feeling or pedal pulsing.

I may be completely wrong, but in my experience and from what I have read, this is usually what happens, amongst other factors of course...

Lewy
18th April 2014, 06:31 PM
Wow Some awesome Info there guys thanks heaps!! So does anyone know what a freshen up/Machining is roughly worth?

Cheers Again
Lewy

lhurley
18th April 2014, 06:40 PM
Wow Some awesome Info there guys thanks heaps!! So does anyone know what a freshen up/Machining is roughly worth?

Cheers Again
Lewy

It's around the $100 mark. Can even get a bloke to come out to your house/work and do it.

Give Slacks Creek Brake and Clutch a call, I get all my brake stuff from them. Usually the best price too

CPOCSM
18th April 2014, 08:56 PM
+1 for the slotted and dimpled discs. Stay right away from the drilled ones as they will crack between the holes. Without exception! They are wank value at best and a road accident at worst.

Green stuff are good but will wear your discs quickly if you are spirited in the driving. Unless you are braking very hard(which the greens are designed for = fast track and road) I suggest the EBC blacks or QNH pads. They will outlast your greens, leave no dust and poop on bendix for longevity.

Learnt from a hard lesson in the EB xr8 when the greens didn't get up to temp and nearly overshot a red light as they were cold. I lost my rear discs when the cracks got to the hub and separated a quarter of each disc to the extent it was being held on by the outer edge of the disc...swapped them for some slotted dba's and have never looked back.

love ke70
18th April 2014, 09:35 PM
Dba discs do not come Dimpled anymore, not for the gq anyway, they have gone back to slotted only

*Edit*I said rda but meant dba. Much better steel in the dba

CPOCSM
18th April 2014, 09:42 PM
Slotted are really all you need on the pootrol and more than adequate at pulling up the near three tonne bitch. Rda I have never used so might give them a go when these dba's go out of tolerance.

Lewy
19th April 2014, 07:46 AM
Thanks for the info guys!!

threedogs
19th April 2014, 09:24 AM
I have RDA dimple and slotted rotors and put Black pads in for the
very reason that "greens" wont work cold and chew your rotors.
Mine did squeak a bit at first but now are OK
.
worked out around $120 a corner, very happy

CPOCSM
19th April 2014, 09:38 AM
I laugh when I saw minis on the road with the EBC reds and greens on them and then listen to the owners whining about how they don't stop well. I tried the greens one season with my mini and took me two laps just to get heat into them. The blacks were a quantum leap in stopping power over the others. The other greT thing about the Blacks and the QNH pads is they leave very little in the way of brake dust on your rims...the dust is very acidic and etches into your rims when they get wet...

Cuppa
19th April 2014, 10:21 AM
Years back I used Ferodo green ‘racing’ brake shoes in a Triumph motorcycle twin leader brake. Forgetting to warm it up with a few applications when first going out could result in scary experiences when the brakes were actually needed. If warmed up they would pull up quick smart. HOWEVER my experience with the EBC ‘Greenstuff’ (Series 6000) is NOTHING like that. I have found no need to warm them up at all, they work excellently from first application, whether the application is gentle or otherwise. Makes me wonder if there is a myth persisting about ‘green’ pads? The EBC’s are a ‘kevlar’ compound.It is possible that the weight of my Patrol is part of the equation, & also possible they may not last well, or may chew out the rotors - time will tell on that, but as I say they are effective regardless of how aggressively they are used & have been virtually from day one. I was just pleased with the very much needed huge improvement over the OEM setup.

Apart from the recommended applications, does anyone know what the difference is between the EBC greenstuff Series 2000 (light cars) 6000 (Light trucks & SUV’s) & 7000 (Trucks) is?

Cuppa
19th April 2014, 10:47 AM
Answering my own question - from the EBC web site http://ebcbrakes.com/product/greenstuff-brake-pads/

EBC Greenstuff Series 2000
Designed for premium street driving offering better brake effect up to 600°C (1100°F). EBC Greenstuff has a high initial brake effect and gives drivers confidence from first application of the brake pedal. There is no such thing as a no dust pad. The very nature of how a brake works requires that some dust be generated to avoid rotor vibration (shimmying). The EBC pad creates less dust and dust is more easily washed off than most. All pads create more dust as they are bedding in especially if rotors are worn. Nominal friction coefficient 0.55. For heavier faster cars and vehicles above 200bhp we strongly recommend Redstuff which does offer much less dust.

Greenstuff – 6000 Series – 4×4 (SUV and Light Truck) Brake Pad


Upgrade pad for Light Truck and SUV improves brake effect 10-20%.
Medium dusting factor makes these cleaner pads than stock.
Capable of repeated heavy brake use without brake “Fall-Off”.
Very minimal disc/rotor damage characteristics.
Suitable for all light trucks, Jeep and SUV in highway use.
Superb brake control and pedal response full grade better than stock.
Minimal dusting features makes this a clean pad compound.
Features red “brake in’ surface coating for instant safe braking after install.


Greenstuff – 7000 Series – 4×4 / SUV Supreme Brake Pad
An excellent solution for 4×4 use, this heavy duty Greenstuff formulation has slightly lower friction than its 2000 series counterpart (average friction coefficient 0.45mm) but has the benefit of longer life and better resistance to offroad conditions of dust and sand etc. It has an extremely low rotor wear factor and medium-to-good lifetime.For a small price premium over the 6000 series, these pads are the ultimate SUV / 4×4 front end pad. They will stop faster and last longer with almost zero brake dust and are EBC’s premium offering for heavy 4x4s. These pads are guaranteed noise free. Average friction coefficient 0.45mm. Features and benefits include chamfers and slots, shimmed, and coated with EBC’s own Brake-In friction accelerator for fast bed-in.

Might give the 7000 series a go if the current 6000’s don’t last.

CPOCSM
19th April 2014, 11:47 AM
Good info there and maybe they have changed the types of compounds used. When I was doing the circuits there were three choices...red green and black. I will be sticking to the blacks though as they are what I am used to now. I will say though when you get the old greens up to temp, I could lift the minis back wheels off the ground with a good tramp of the foot, considering I was using tiny cooper 7 inch solid discs. As I got gamer, maybe a bit more dumber, I upgraded to the cooper s slotted 7.5 inch discs. What a huge difference half an inch makes!

love ke70
19th April 2014, 12:32 PM
thats what she said...

CPOCSM
19th April 2014, 06:36 PM
Not the size Paduan...all about the technique!

CPOCSM
19th April 2014, 06:54 PM
Mind you you need balls the size of coconuts driving a legal road going roller skate at 200kph and a small bore revving its tits off at 8500rpm

http://youtu.be/hq743jZ6L0Y