Shocks or Springs?

[clivelm]

Hi everyone,
I have just brought a 2inch suspension kit for my GQ. I can't do all the work in one weekend. In what order would I do it? eg all 4 shocks then all 4 springs, front then back. What do you think?

Cheers

Clive

[MEGOMONSTER]

Hi everyone, I have just brought a 2inch suspension kit for my GQ. I can't do all the work in one weekend. In what order would I do it? eg all 4 shocks then all 4 springs, front then back. What do you think? Cheers Clive No sure about a GQ but on the GU, Mattfew and I (well mostly Matt ) fitted springs and shocks in the morning, couple hours Max. Then went wheeling straight after for the afternoon. 42610 From this 42611 To this 42612 To this

We did front first. Then back.

Shockers out first then springs out, springs in and shockers in.

I thinks that's how we ( he ) did it.

[Bloodyaussie]

Firstly head over to the intro section mate and say g'day and introduce yourself..

As for the Suspension the shocks are very easy to do and should only take about 30-45min if doing this for the first time.

The springs are a bit tougher but not overly hard and should take maybe a couple of hours... I would do shocks first then springs later if I was to do it on different days??.

Oh and welcome.

[MEGOMONSTER]

Firstly head over to the intro section mate and say g'day and introduce yourself.. Oh and welcome.

Sorry mate missed that one.

[happygu]

Clive,

You have to undo the shocks to get the springs in ..... no point doing it twice .....

Mic

[clivelm]

Thanks Mic is that the same for front and back?

Clive

[happygu]

Yes it is Clive,

To be able to drop the springs out, you need to undo the shocks, as they have a fair bit of compressed length....

Rears are heaps easier than the fronts. Front axle doesn't naturally drop down as much as the uncompressed spring length, whereas the rears will drop out

Mic

[happygu]

Remember the new springs will probably be three or more inches longer, so whilst the old ones are easy to remove, it can be a little trickier getting the new ones back in...

[clivelm]

Thanks Mic you've been a great help.

[MEGOMONSTER]

Remember the new springs will probably be three or more inches longer, so whilst the old ones are easy to remove, it can be a little trickier getting the new ones back in...

We found the same, the replacement springs were a little harder to put in.

[happygu]

I suggest starting with the rears....there are a few threads about it, but for the rear you will need to undo the shocks, swaybar links, the bolt holding the brake line distribution block to the diff housing, and take the diff breather off the diff, and then you will be set to go.

Fronts are similar to the rear, but you can get away without undoing the swaybar links.

Also remember, safety is paramount, as this can be an extremely dangerous proceedure, as there is a lot of energy stored in the springs, and a lot of weight in a poorly supported vehicle

Mic

[clivelm]

I'm doing this on the weekend. It'll be a steep learning curve I'm sure.

[MudRunnerTD]

I'm doing this on the weekend. It'll be a steep learning curve I'm sure.

It will blow you away how easy it is. any trouble post here and someone will help you out mate. As stated do both at once. Springs and Shocks. if its a 2" lift then it is Simple.

[liftlid]

Have you got axle stands and a trolley jack? You need to get the car fairly high off the ground

[clivelm]

Yes I have axle stands and a trolley jack. Plus I acquired a nice pair of spring compressors. The springs seem to be the main thing I need to do right.

[happygu]

I haven't used spring compressors when I have done it - even when pulling out 5 inch lift springs - but they were a bit of a bugger to get out.

Allow plenty of time ... the first time took me around 5 hours or so, as I had to work out what to do, and when to do it.

The last time took me under two hours at home, so as Mudrunner says, it isn't that hard when you work out a work method.

[MudRunnerTD]

You won't need the spring compressors.

Jack the car slightly from under the diff.
lift the wheel off the ground an inch or so.
Place the Jack Stands under the chassis rails just behind where the front radius arms connect to the chassis.
Unbolt the sway bar at both ends.
Undo and remove the wheels. This will allow you to drop the diff down to the ground sitting on the jack rather than have to lift you car to an unsafe and unstable height.
Undo the bottom nut on the shocks before you drop the diff down.

The springs will nearly fall out.

Easy as.

Repeat process for the rear.

[clivelm]

Thanks MudRunner sounds like a plan.

[BigRAWesty]

The biggest thing is to take note of what spring goes where. Right side will be slightly longer than the left..

They should be marked LF LR RF AND RR or something like that..

[clivelm]

Hi Westys. Why is one longer than the other?

[clivelm]

Well I have done the front shocks and springs. It looks a bit funny now as the front is about 100mm higher than the back. I will do the rear next Saturday.
Thanks Mudrunner once I released the brake line, removed the stabiliser and dropped the diff the springs just fell out. No need to use the spring compressors.
cheers
Clive
43015

[happygu]

Clive,

Longer springs should be on Drivers side to compensate for the extra weight

Mic

[clivelm]

Hi Mic,
Yeh the longer springs are on the drivers side. They were marked drivers and passengers. Why is that?

[happygu]

There is usually more consistent weight on the drivers side, as you always have a driver at 80Kg plus, and in the case of the GU, a sub tank.

[clivelm]

I'm replacing my rear springs on the weekend so I will have four springs that I'm going to throw out.
I think they are the originals so 22 years old. So from a 92 GQ TI 4.2L Petrol. Auto. 260,000 kms.
If anyone needs them they're yours just pay freight. Probably worthless but I thought I'd ask.

Clive

[clivelm]

43217All suspension replaced and I didn't kill anyone!
However when I had my pink slip last done I was knocked back because the exhaust was too close to the LPG tank.
They moved it but I have now seen the exhaust has been rubbing on the old shock since. I have had to bend the exhaust to fit the new shock.
Do you think I should be able to go back to the guys that did the exhaust and ask them to fix it for nothing?

[MudRunnerTD]

Yes maybe. Did they just bend it or make a new bit? Show them the old shock and tell them you done want the same damage to the brand new shock and see if they will look after you.

[clivelm]

Thanks MudRunner.
It looks like they made a new section. I'm only worried now because it could burn the dust cover on the new one. (which I split while trying to fit it so will need replacing)
Also I haven't really bent the exhaust more than pull it round at the back. The only thing stopping it springing back is the clamp that goes around the box near the rear which is held with a rubber thing. I have run it to hot and the dust cover shows no sign of burning yet but when I go off road anything could happen.

[MudRunnerTD]

Yeah not ideal. I can assure you that it will become a Rattle within a few months on idle and drive you nuts!

[clivelm]

I spoke with the guys that did the exhaust previously. They asked me to bring it in on Thursday and will fix it no questions asked.
They don't even need to see the receipt which is good as I've lost it.

[Bushy674]

Always a good idea to have a look at the brake lines after a week or so, with a few years under the belt having them in a new position can cause a split in the line, 2 inch lift doesn't stretch them just has them in a different position.
Good luck eh