Portable fridge/freezer temps

[DX grunt]

What temps do you run your fridge/freezer on while you're away camping?

I've got a 95lt EvaKool fridge/freezer.

Thanks.

Ross

[my third 256]

waeco 50 ltr on the third green light . turn off at night saves battery power
as long as the beer is cold who cares lol

[nowoolies]

g`day Ross
i run a couple of Engel`s 1x freeze and the other one at setting 3 never failed yet (thats put the curse on it i bet)
how long before you go away ????
Paul

[molongmick]

I have a waeco 40lt, in my old 4by I used to run at 3 degrees for fridge, -11 when I put it into freezer mode. While in freezer mode I made sure I would go for a drive atleast once a day, only for about 1/2 an hour or so, it seems to keep the battery topped up.

[nowoolies]

What temps do you run your fridge/freezer on while you're away camping?

I've got a 95lt EvaKool fridge/freezer.

Thanks.

Ross

Ross is your bus set up with solar same as mine ????? yours ex telstra?????

[the evil twin]

Hi Roscoe... I couldn't find an Evakool 95 on their website so I am assuming it is an 85? Anyhow I'll treat it like the Waeco 85 I had as I am sure the setup will be similar.

(Edit - just realised your's is a Fridgemate, I was looking at the FF series)

1. Really important... Buy a temp gauge... I use a little round sucker that stays in the fridge was about $ 5 at the Reject Shop but you can get remote reading ones if you want from Engel etc. I now use 2 X 40 litre Engels (one as frig one as freezer) and that temp gauge is worth its weight in gold

2. I used to set my Waeco at approx -13 in the Freezer and that meant the fridge compartment was about +2 normally and + 4 (hottest). Use the temp gauge to keep an eye on temps and you will soon get an idea of where to have your settings in various modes.

3. Now, here is the biggest drawback to the dual zone frig's. Because the temp sensor is in the "Freezer side" and also that is the only spot where the cooler plates are as well it means the Freezer side is easily controlled but the Frig side temps can wander around significantly as you open and close the lid to get gear and also as you put new stuff in (say some more drinks etc). What happens is that you can put "warm" stuff in the frig side but the Freezer just sits there fat dumb and happy AND also you can put "new" stuff in the Freezer and if the existing stuff is surrounding the temp sensor then again the thing thinks all is OK.

4. To get around the issues what I did was as follows...
Adding to Freezer - always put the non-frozen stuff on the bottom. Adding to fridge - always pull the top 1/2 of the divider out (or whole divider if it is one piece). Crank the Temp down a couple of degrees for an hour or so to get things happening and return to normal setting and replace divider.

5. If you are in and out of the frig a lot around mealtimes or with the Grandkids etc I found that removing the top 1/2 divider and placing a thin material cover of pretty much anything insulated such as heavy plastic, thin teflon board or that silver reflective stuff over the Freezer section worked wonders in keeping the Frig temp down, Freezer temp stable and power useage down. Obviously when the Frig is only under minimal use thats not an issue

6. I found the following made a big difference as well... as you knock over a tinnie or grab some drinks for everyone, replace them immediately to begin cooling rather than waiting and adding say 6 or 8 warm ones all at once. Again, the highest useage for me used to be around sundowners/tea time so I would take out the top divider at that time and pop it back at "last drinks".

Bottom line - You never want your Frezer sitting warmer than about -12 degrees for any extended time (I like to see -15 or so). Every frig type and indeed every user will have different patterns so the Temp Gauge in point 1 is the greatest tool while you get used to how your frig reacts to daily useage. You may need to be lower than that to get the Frig section temps down tho. Juggling the divider is up to you.

[DX grunt]

Hey ET

Thanks for the info. It's a 95lt, came with a RC temp thingy and a wired one. It also come with a tinted perspex lid to put on top of the freezer, and the divider has holes in it for the cold air to get through to the fridge.

Both our cameras have flat batteries and are being recharged as we speak. I'll post some pics up in the next day or so.

Thanks for your help. Don't forget to write a book about your life's wisdom, knowledge and experience, before somebody writes your obituary. lol

Thanks again, mate.

Take care out there.

Rossco

[the evil twin]

Hey ET

Thanks for the info. It's a 95lt, came with a RC temp thingy and a wired one. It also come with a tinted perspex lid to put on top of the freezer, and the divider has holes in it for the cold air to get through to the fridge.

Both our cameras have flat batteries and are being recharged as we speak. I'll post some pics up in the next day or so.

Thanks for your help. Don't forget to write a book about your life's wisdom, knowledge and experience, before somebody writes your obituary. lol

Thanks again, mate.

Take care out there.

Rossco

Cool Banana's... :bananadancing:

Hey, ... Cool Banana's... Fridge.... Cool Banana's... get it?... I made a funny (well, up until Banana's hit $15 a Kilo anyway)

With those accessories supplied you have it all mate...

As for the book of wisdom it would be a pretty thin bastrd... now IF it was E.T.'s Book of Gutter Humour and Cracking Good Jokes I could write a Trilogy.

[DX grunt]

Ross is your bus set up with solar same as mine ????? yours ex telstra?????

Not yet Paul.

I looked into getting a solar panel but I haven't got a spare $900 - $1k for a 120watt panel yet.

I've got 2 x 35w continuous amp Anderson fuses that I really need sorting out this week so I can hook the fridge up for 'Travelling Mode"

I've also got a 750w generator that I'll be using during daytimes as a temporary fix. It only takes 200watts to run the the Evakool.

I'm open to any suggestions. U got any pics to show, for ideas?

[DX grunt]

Ross is your bus set up with solar same as mine ????? yours ex telstra?????

Here's my set up in the pod on the back

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af279/DXgrunt/TruckAugust2009023.jpg

[the evil twin]

It only takes 200watts to run the the Evakool.



Uuuummm do you mean 20 Watts. 200 Watts is about 18 Amps. The BD50 Compressors won't use that much... or are you talking a days useage. If so it is easier to talk in Amp/Hours

I would budget that you will be using about 3 A/H on the big 95 Frig during the day Ross and about 2 A/H over night. You should be under those figures but thats what I would use.

That means about 60 A/H to find each day to replenish batteries which you should do easily with about 4 hours on Genny and a small Charger of 6 to 8 Amps capacity if that is your plan. If you have the Frig on the genny while it is running and do longer than 4 hours (but who wants that at Cape Riche) you won't need much battery recharging at all.

[the evil twin]

Not yet Paul.

I looked into getting a solar panel but I haven't got a spare $900 - $1k for a 120watt panel yet.

I've got 2 x 35w continuous amp Anderson fuses that I really need sorting out this week so I can hook the fridge up for 'Travelling Mode"

I've also got a 750w generator that I'll be using during daytimes as a temporary fix. It only takes 200watts to run the the Evakool.

I'm open to any suggestions. U got any pics to show, for ideas?

Put your frig on one of the 8 Amp outlets Cobber... 8 Amps is way more than you need and they are a "Merit" Connector on those Telstra Rigs aren't they which means it is easy peasy DIY for Plugs.

[DX grunt]

Uuuummm do you mean 20 Watts. 200 Watts is about 18 Amps. The BD50 Compressors won't use that much... or are you talking a days useage. If so it is easier to talk in Amp/Hours

I would budget that you will be using about 3 A/H on the big 95 Frig during the day Ross and about 2 A/H over night. You should be under those figures but thats what I would use.

That means about 60 A/H to find each day to replenish batteries which you should do easily with about 4 hours on Genny and a small Charger of 6 to 8 Amps capacity if that is your plan. If you have the Frig on the genny while it is running and do longer than 4 hours (but who wants that at Cape Riche) you won't need much battery recharging at all.

200w is what is says on the converter that goes inbetween the plug in the wall and the fridge. I'll have a good read when I finish work. Thanks.

[nowoolies]

ill take a few pics in the morning and post them my sub board is similar got a couple more outlets i modifyed about a year ago
some tosser nicked my solar panels i have got a couple on order with one of my suppliers supposed to be half the price you have
ill check that out as well ,i forgot about the panels, mine dissapeared when i had the prang. evreything else is still there.
are your door hinges made of some sort of plastic like mine if so check them over, mine cracked and fell off at christmas hit my son in the head with the door hahahha to far from his brain to hurt him. hes 27 ,
no sign of letting go untill they fell off, the hinges are $100.00 ea the rivits are about $2.50 ea and the rivit gun is $190.00 i now have the rivits and the rivit gun if needed for loan by anyone.

[nowoolies]

g`day Ross
1st one shows where the panels were leads hanging off
2nd subboard i have 2 x Engle outlets as well 1 top and 1 outta the bottom
3thd same
4th solar regulator
5th most important rodholders up outta the way , even if there is a rake in it hahaha

[Dark 1]

I run twin 38 ltr engels ,1 as freeze set at around 3.5 on rotary dial other as fridge set at just under 1 on rotary dial. All camp & vehicle lights are led so power usage is as follows:
1 fridge & freezer together 3.1-2 amps per hour at a circulating rate of approx 60-65%
2 led lights ,all interior led's including map-surface mount & roof console consume 1.1 amps with external tent & flood led lamps consuming 2.2 amps, total consumption 3.3amps.
3 pump for shower is non existent as car is running to opperate heat exchanger
4 150watt inverter consumes 8.1 amps but we normally only use this when driving or for a couple of hours through the middle of the day

Total average consumption per day approx 66.4 amps per day.

80 watt solar mounted to roof rack pulls 6.9-7 amps in full sun [approx 4 hrs of day] & around about 3-4amps for the remaining part of the day.
Approximately 52.5amps per hour, meaning a standard 100 amp hr deep cycle battery[ 80% of usable power] gives you 80amps which is approx 8 days before needing to be charged.

I know there's alot in this post , hope it helps you rosco & anyone else.

Note: I have an advanced battery monitor that tells you amps used, charge in , time to discharge & time to charge.

[DX grunt]

I run twin 38 ltr engels ,1 as freeze set at around 3.5 on rotary dial other as fridge set at just under 1 on rotary dial. All camp & vehicle lights are led so power usage is as follows:
1 fridge & freezer together 3.1-2 amps per hour at a circulating rate of approx 60-65%
2 led lights ,all interior led's including map-surface mount & roof console consume 1.1 amps with external tent & flood led lamps consuming 2.2 amps, total consumption 3.3amps.
3 pump for shower is non existent as car is running to opperate heat exchanger
4 150watt inverter consumes 8.1 amps but we normally only use this when driving or for a couple of hours through the middle of the day

Total average consumption per day approx 66.4 amps per day.

80 watt solar mounted to roof rack pulls 6.9-7 amps in full sun [approx 4 hrs of day] & around about 3-4amps for the remaining part of the day.
Approximately 52.5amps per hour, meaning a standard 100 amp hr deep cycle battery[ 80% of usable power] gives you 80amps which is approx 8 days before needing to be charged.

I know there's alot in this post , hope it helps you rosco & anyone else.

Note: I have an advanced battery monitor that tells you amps used, charge in , time to discharge & time to charge.

Thanks Kelvin. I'll just get an auto leckie to interpret. lol

[Dark 1]

Thanks Kelvin. I'll just get an auto leckie to interpret. lol

Come on mate, i'm a dumb building tradie & i get it. Took me a long time to learn it all, thanks to mates for percivering with me. It all boils down to amps out & amps in.
The crux of it is SOLAR WORKS.

[DX grunt]

The crux of it is SOLAR WORKS.

Thanks. I have a starting point. lol

[Sir Roofy]

come on mate, i'm a dumb building tradie & i get it. Took me a long time to learn it all, thanks to mates for percivering with me. It all boils down to amps out & amps in.
The crux of it is solar works.

it does im still learning but getting there i run a big mother waeco,freeze @-4+ or justfridge @ 1+ depends on whats in it how much and how far we go

[nowoolies]

What temps do you run your fridge/freezer on while you're away camping?

I've got a 95lt EvaKool fridge/freezer.

Thanks.

Ross

g`day Ross
i dont know what happened to this post before maybe my ALIEN got it .......lmao
anyroad as i was saying one of my suppliers can get 80watt crystaline solar panels (i think thats what there called ) for around $300.00 ea and the regulator for about $65.00
just a thought
nowoolies
Paul

[Dark 1]

g`day Ross
i dont know what happened to this post before maybe my ALIEN got it .......lmao
anyroad as i was saying one of my suppliers can get 80watt crystaline solar panels (i think thats what there called ) for around $300.00 ea and the regulator for about $65.00
just a thought
nowoolies
Paul

Top prices there mate. I prefer monocrystaline panels but the technology is constantly changing. The most important part of any solar system is the regulator, you don't want to penny pinch on regulators you get what you pay for.

[nowoolies]

Top prices there mate. I prefer monocrystaline panels but the technology is constantly changing. The most important part of any solar system is the regulator, you don't want to penny pinch on regulators you get what you pay for.

thanks Kelvin
monocrystaline is what there called, i new it was crystal something ,
mind you i prefer my crystal with a nice drop of red in it lol
nowoolies
Paul

[DX grunt]

g`day Ross
i dont know what happened to this post before maybe my ALIEN got it .......lmao
anyroad as i was saying one of my suppliers can get 80watt crystaline solar panels (i think thats what there called ) for around $300.00 ea and the regulator for about $65.00
just a thought
nowoolies
Paul

Thanks Paul. I watched the vid about my fridge (95lt) and it needs a 120w solar panel to run it. Any chance on getting a price for me on that? Thanks. Ross

[nowoolies]

Thanks Paul. I watched the vid about my fridge (95lt) and it needs a 120w solar panel to run it. Any chance on getting a price for me on that? Thanks. Ross

g`day Ross
ill ask the question to him nowoolies
but just a thought if you run 2 x 80 watts , my thinking, a little left over on the amps =40 watts spare ????
i dont know a lot about solar hopefully some one else could help with the wattage and running of solar panels
Paul

[Dark 1]

g`day Ross
ill ask the question to him nowoolies
but just a thought if you run 2 x 80 watts , my thinking, a little left over on the amps =40 watts spare ????
i dont know a lot about solar hopefully some one else could help with the wattage and running of solar panels
Paul

Problem with that is where to put 2 panels. I would probably lean towards 1 x 120 watt panel witha good quality 20 amp regulator.

[DX grunt]

I was looking at the 120watt portable unit like this one...

http://www.australiandirect.com.au/product.php/28/tiny-120-watt-tri-folding-panel---carry-bag

Watched the vid and was impressed. My problem is there are tooooo many choices and now I'm confused. I could easily fit a fixed panel or two on the roof of my pod, too. There are lots of options for me to chose from. I just need to sit down and think about what I want to do. I know everything won't run off my second battery and there's so many creature comforts I want. lol

[tkn]

[QUOTE=DX grunt;37138]

"I looked into getting a solar panel but I haven't got a spare $900 - $1k for a 120watt panel yet."

Sounds a bit steep - depends on what they are.

But I bought can get a 3 x 40W fold up panels complete with a controller and 10 metre lead for around $750.00 about 3 months ago. Let me know if you want the details.

[DX grunt]

[QUOTE=DX grunt;37138]

"I looked into getting a solar panel but I haven't got a spare $900 - $1k for a 120watt panel yet."

Sounds a bit steep - depends on what they are.

But I bought can get a 3 x 40W fold up panels complete with a controller and 10 metre lead for around $750.00 about 3 months ago. Let me know if you want the details.

Thanks, tkn . If you go to the link on my previous post, you'll see what I want, I think?? lol

[Dark 1]

Sorry to be so strong about my opinions on this topic but this has been an ongoig issue with me for a couple of years. I originally had my panel as a portable unit & now a hard monted unit. Portable yes you can sunchase it & get optimum efficiency but you have to sunchase it [stuffing around with it every hour or so] & store it somewhere in your vehicle , pull it out set it up pull it down pack it away.
Hard wired - it's allways up there always on always getting power [i've even on a clear night got a little power from the moonlight]

2 cents worth.

[Dark 1]

Here's a couple of photos of my solar system.

[DX grunt]

Sorry to be so strong about my opinions on this topic but this has been an ongoig issue with me for a couple of years. I originally had my panel as a portable unit & now a hard monted unit. Portable yes you can sunchase it & get optimum efficiency but you have to sunchase it [stuffing around with it every hour or so] & store it somewhere in your vehicle , pull it out set it up pull it down pack it away.
Hard wired - it's allways up there always on always getting power [i've even on a clear night got a little power from the moonlight]

2 cents worth.

Don't be sorry, mate. That's what I need to hear. There's too many options and too many adds ect to confuse me. I thought about sticking a couple of panels up on the roof.
Keep those thoughts and comments coming, please.

[nowoolies]

g`day Ross
one thing that was said to me today while i was looking at them was, if one panel fails / broken/ smashed ,
you still got the other one untill you get home, best part of having two.
hopefully ill have a price in the morning for the bigger unit
Paul

[DX grunt]

Hey ET, My local auto leckie doesn't have that Merrit plug, so I rang Rosco's Trade Mate in Bibra Lake
and asked them what the name was. Still waiting.

Here's the plug

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af279/DXgrunt/Evakooland12v011.jpg

[DX grunt]

Hey ET, My local auto leckie doesn't have that Merrit plug, so I rang Rosco's Trade Mate in Bibra Lake
and asked them what the name was. Still waiting.

Here's the plug

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af279/DXgrunt/Evakooland12v011.jpg

Jumped onto my swag website and was helped out. Here's what I need.

http://myswag.org/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=5888.0;attach=2761 9;image

After I emailed my leckie a photo, they said "Oh yes, they're a stock item" I said YES YES YES, I love you". hahahahaha
So it's all sorted and I don't have to go the 60k's to pick it up. They've got another job in our town and are going to deliver it. YES, YES, YES.

[the evil twin]

Good result dude....

I like the Merits because they are a positive lock for the "positive" or centre connection.

I HATE ciggy plugs with a passion because they are by design spring loaded to try and push the plug out of the socket whichch either breaks the connection completely or goes intermittent and that happens heaps on corrugated roads etc.

All my bits of kit have the Merit male plugs on them as they will fit both Merit and Ciggy Female connectors so can plug them in to other peoples cars or the front factory sockets of mine if needs be.

[nowoolies]

should look closer missed the part where you are getting them delivered hahahaha
i even got a couple of spares in my kit what a dumb sh#t i am lmao

[tkn]

Not yet Paul.

I looked into getting a solar panel but I haven't got a spare $900 - $1k for a 120watt panel yet.



Sounds a bit steep. I bought a set of 3 x 40 panels with controller and 10metre lead in aluminium case for about $750.00 about 3 months ago. Working fine.

Contact is Goldsearch Australia (03) 5468 1877 - Tony Mills.

[89GQ]

With your Evakool , I got the 60 L. and on setting 6-7 freezers at-18-19 and fridge + 3-4 I put two peices of about 2-3mm plastic under the divider to lift it abit and it bought fridge side temp down. The remote sensor is very handy When looking into the evakool alot of people say to get rid of the ciggy plug! I went anderson.Cheers

[DX grunt]

With your Evakool , I got the 60 L. and on setting 6-7 freezers at-18-19 and fridge + 3-4 I put two peices of about 2-3mm plastic under the divider to lift it abit and it bought fridge side temp down. The remote sensor is very handy When looking into the evakool alot of people say to get rid of the ciggy plug! I went anderson.Cheers

I've tried 95lt Evakool on 750 w gennie and it gets the temp down, but appears to work better on my 12v in my truck and proper 240V. Love the remote sensor too.
I accidentally let my fridge drop from the back of my truck to the ground. I was absolutely ropeable and angry at myself. It still works fine. Read the warranty, and looks like I might have voided it, but we'll see - IF I have any issues down the track. One of the warranty things is that it must be serviced after the 2nd, 3rd and 4th and I think, 5th years.

Ciggy plug..... my fridge has a fault meter and one beep reckons its a power problem. As soon as I plug it into my 12 v via Meritt plug in the back, fault goes. I upgraded my wiring from fridge to merrit plug to 6mm. Haven't touched the ciggy plug yet. It'll be interesting to see. I know nothing about 12v so I'll be talking to 'someone'. Maybe fletcha can tell me if upgrading my ciggy wiring will help.

[89GQ]

I've tried 95lt Evakool on 750 w gennie and it gets the temp down, but appears to work better on my 12v in my truck and proper 240V. Love the remote sensor too.
I accidentally let my fridge drop from the back of my truck to the ground. I was absolutely ropeable and angry at myself. It still works fine. Read the warranty, and looks like I might have voided it, but we'll see - IF I have any issues down the track. One of the warranty things is that it must be serviced after the 2nd, 3rd and 4th and I think, 5th years.

Ciggy plug..... my fridge has a fault meter and one beep reckons its a power problem. As soon as I plug it into my 12 v via Meritt plug in the back, fault goes. I upgraded my wiring from fridge to merrit plug to 6mm. Haven't touched the ciggy plug yet. It'll be interesting to see. I know nothing about 12v so I'll be talking to 'someone'. Maybe fletcha can tell me if upgrading my ciggy wiring will help.Yeh saw that in the warrenty, might stick to it if its not too costly. Good to hear they bounce ok and it didnt break! Merit plugs are good, the feedback i saw said to getrid of the normal ciggy plug fitting, I think as long as it cant shake out of the socket is the main thing. Chuck up some temps and what setting youre dial is on to compare! Doing one today in the back off the car, put some frozen stuff in freezer and milk etc in the fridge side, ambient is 30.6 and im'e on no. 9 setting and freezer is only at -14 ?????? Going too leave it abit longer to see whats happening. Last test inside on 240V (which shoulnt differ cause the transformer turns it too 12V) same ambient setting 6-7 had it at -18-19.

[DX grunt]

Yeh saw that in the warrenty, might stick to it if its not too costly. Good to hear they bounce ok and it didnt break! Merit plugs are good, the feedback i saw said to getrid of the normal ciggy plug fitting, I think as long as it cant shake out of the socket is the main thing. Chuck up some temps and what setting youre dial is on to compare! Doing one today in the back off the car, put some frozen stuff in freezer and milk etc in the fridge side, ambient is 30.6 and im'e on no. 9 setting and freezer is only at -14 ?????? Going too leave it abit longer to see whats happening. Last test inside on 240V (which shoulnt differ cause the transformer turns it too 12V) same ambient setting 6-7 had it at -18-19.

Reading betwen the lines by what everybody has said, set it up a couple of days before, make sure all your frozen stuff is frozen before you put it in, and you should be fine.
I run an extension cord from the house to my truck and do it that way. Saves battery power.

On the jenny, I crank it up all the way, and it's fine. Gunna try it out in my truck with a 4hr drive today (about now), with the remote sensor in my cab so I can keep an eye on it.

Rossco

[89GQ]

Reading betwen the lines by what everybody has said, set it up a couple of days before, make sure all your frozen stuff is frozen before you put it in, and you should be fine.
I run an extension cord from the house to my truck and do it that way. Saves battery power.

On the jenny, I crank it up all the way, and it's fine. Gunna try it out in my truck with a 4hr drive today (about now), with the remote sensor in my cab so I can keep an eye on it.

Rosscoyeh had it on before, let us know youre temps and setting when you get back, Cheers Jeff

[charbadanBH]

Most family coolers, by and large, work inside a 4ºC to 7ºC territory. Setting your setting camping refrigerator (https://www.bougerv.com/collections/12v-refrigerator) any lower than that might be pointless with regards to control utilization.

[mudnut]

Who is brave enough to click on the link?

[Plasnart]

Who is brave enough to click on the link?

Not me.

And if you want to keep your milk at 7 degrees, I'll have mine black no sugar thanks!

[MudRunnerTD]

Who is brave enough to click on the link?

I went in the back end and had a look under the hyperlink. It is safe to click. He is selling fridges but there is probably some good info there.

[mihit]

I went in the back end and had a look under the hyperlink. It is safe to click. He is selling fridges but there is probably some good info there.
In plain text:
https://www.bougerv.com/collections/12v-refrigerator

Chinese spam courtesy of:
Registrar Info
NameAlibaba Cloud Computing (Beijing) Co., Ltd.


FWIW, On the original topic.
I would stick to brand name units (danfoss, dometic, challenger, isotherm etc - pretty much in that order.)
Chinese units run longer and have crappier insulation (using more power to achieve the same temps) -even the ones that use brand name compressors (I'm looking at you, jaycar)

Freezing at -16 and refrigeration at -2 to 4°C
Lots of thermal mass, (beer cans)

[MudRunnerTD]

In plain text:
https://www.bougerv.com/collections/12v-refrigerator

Chinese spam courtesy of:
Registrar Info
NameAlibaba Cloud Computing (Beijing) Co., Ltd.


FWIW, On the original topic.
I would stick to brand name units (danfoss, dometic, challenger, isotherm etc - pretty much in that order.)
Chinese units run longer and have crappier insulation (using more power to achieve the same temps) -even the ones that use brand name compressors (I'm looking at you, jaycar)

Freezing at -16 and refrigeration at -2 to 4°C
Lots of thermal mass, (beer cans)

Yeah I didn't really care about the source and only ensuring it wasn't a Trojan or something. They clearly read enough of the thread and applied logic to their post that effort was accepted. We get Smashed by Bots Daily and I do a fair bit of cleaning up, I'm happy to leave this one there, it contributed.

[mihit]

Yeah I didn't really care about the source and only ensuring it wasn't a Trojan or something. They clearly read enough of the thread and applied logic to their post that effort was accepted. We get Smashed by Bots Daily and I do a fair bit of cleaning up, I'm happy to leave this one there, it contributed.

I'd be surprised if it was a "they"...but I don't know what pronouns bots prefer :D
Probably just scanned for keywords, a semi-english sentence generator.

Anyway, cheers for the behind-the-scenes mod work. Generally thankless task and most people probably don't even know it's happening, but it makes the net a much saner place. :smiley_thumbs_up:

[vapesob]

Hi Roscoe... I couldn't find an Evakool 95 on their website so I am assuming it is an 85? Anyhow I'll treat it like the Waeco 85 I had as I am sure the setup will be similar.

(Edit - just realised your's is a Fridgemate, I was looking at the FF series)

1. Really important... Buy a temp gauge... I use a little round sucker that stays in the fridge was about $ 5 at the Reject Shop but you can get remote reading ones if you want from Engel etc. I now use 2 X 40 litre Engels (one as frig one as freezer) and that temp gauge is worth its weight in gold

2. I used to set my Waeco at approx -13 in the Freezer and that meant the fridge compartment was about +2 normally and + 4 (hottest). Use the temp gauge to keep an eye on temps and you will soon get an idea of where to have your settings in various modes.

3. Now, here is the biggest drawback to the dual zone frig's. Because the temp sensor is in the "Freezer side" and also that is the only spot where the cooler plates are as well it means the Freezer side is easily controlled but the Frig side temps can wander around significantly as you open and close the lid to get gear and also as you put new stuff in portable fridge (https://www.bougerv.com/collections/12v-refrigerator)(say some more drinks etc). What happens is that you can put "warm" stuff in the frig side but the Freezer just sits there fat dumb and happy AND also you can put "new" stuff in the Freezer and if the existing stuff is surrounding the temp sensor then again the thing thinks all is OK.

4. To get around the issues what I did was as follows...
Adding to Freezer - always put the non-frozen stuff on the bottom. Adding to fridge - always pull the top 1/2 of the divider out (or whole divider if it is one piece). Crank the Temp down a couple of degrees for an hour or so to get things happening and return to normal setting and replace divider.

5. If you are in and out of the frig a lot around mealtimes or with the Grandkids etc I found that removing the top 1/2 divider and placing a thin material cover of pretty much anything insulated such as heavy plastic, thin teflon board or that silver reflective stuff over the Freezer section worked wonders in keeping the Frig temp down, Freezer temp stable and power useage down. Obviously when the Frig is only under minimal use thats not an issue

6. I found the following made a big difference as well... as you knock over a tinnie or grab some drinks for everyone, replace them immediately to begin cooling rather than waiting and adding say 6 or 8 warm ones all at once. Again, the highest useage for me used to be around sundowners/tea time so I would take out the top divider at that time and pop it back at "last drinks".

Bottom line - You never want your Frezer sitting warmer than about -12 degrees for any extended time (I like to see -15 or so). Every frig type and indeed every user will have different patterns so the Temp Gauge in point 1 is the greatest tool while you get used to how your frig reacts to daily useage. You may need to be lower than that to get the Frig section temps down tho. Juggling the divider is up to you.
Any recommendations for a 12 Volt, portable fridge/freezer besides Engel, Dometic or ARB?

[Cuppa]

Any recommendations for a 12 Volt, portable fridge/freezer besides Engel, Dometic or ARB?

Some thoughts as opposed to recommendations.

- Most fridges when they fail, do so as a result of the electronics rather than the compressor. There are limited ways in which manufacturers can reduce build costs, & often the cheapies have lower quality electronics - more about how they are put together, than what they are. All are pretty similar. I recently had to replace the Thermistor in our ARB fridge. An easy 'plug & play swap'. I used a Dometic thermistor as they were easily available.

- Most fridge/freezers will be quite adequate for a one off trip, but long term is another matter. Depends what you need/can afford.

-More insulation = less power used.

If you have room & the budget required - a separate fridge & freezer will work better than trying to use the same unit for both - regardless of the advertising. But you will need a better power supply.

We've run separate fridge & freezer in our vehicle for the past 13 years, the last 6 almost fulltime, mainly in the tropics. Both are ARB units. (Now called ARB 'Classic'. We have Dc to Dc & Solar charging. When driving we have the freezer set to it's coldest. When we set up camp we change it to minus 14. ARB have 'average' insulation - comparable to most if you exclude Trailblaza & National Luna, but we like the design, particularly the lid closure. When they die we think we'll replace them with the same again.

Because we often go 'off grid for up to a couple of months at a time we usually get meat cryovaced & pre-frozen for added peace of mind before putting it in the freezer,& have eaten meat up to 4 months old this way & never had any gone off. This is probably overkill for shorter trips though.

Our preference is for units which use the Secop (Danfoss) compressors, not because they are any better than others (most commonly Engel's Sawafuji, or LG in some), but because diagnostic fault finding info is more easily found if required.