Lost and confused

[SundownerCamper]

Hi all, I have a bit of a long one but need advice as my local mechanic is a Toyota fan boy and is just costing me money sitting in his driveway.

I Have a TB42E Patrol. It’s always been reliable and with minimal issue until recently. A few months back it just stopped as I was stationary to not start again. I discovered that the fuel pump was not priming so I tested the relay and all the fuses. I ended up changing fuel pumps to a new one. Since then the car has had no issues.

Last week I was driving up to another property while I was changing from first to second or second to third about 50-60Kph the car suddenly died when I put the clutch in I lost all power and the car just cut out. I pulled over scratch my head and shook the earth on the battery. The car started and I was off again only to have it happen a second and third time so I turned around and ended up using my tractor to tow it home.

The car was idling fine with no issue and I could rev and hold at rev for as long as I wanted with no issues. Now it starts very rough and shakes and farts. It’s over fueling to compensate an issue I am guessing. I have read on the site as much as possible and I have had the MAF and TPS tested both fine, my air box is good and filter clean. I can feel a miss when I run the car and when under load keeps dying. Any advice would be greatly appreciated as my mechanic is at this stage “can’t offer you any more help”.

Cheers
Neil

[rkinsey]

Gday Neil,

Im no mechanic but I would check fuel delivery system from the sender in the tank, the lines and fuel filters first. Make sure there are no blockages or leaks and that the fuel is flowing freely.

Then all the connections for the ECU (if this model has one. Like I said, Im no mechanic) to make sure that all of the cable connections are free of dirt and contaminants.

You have already checked the air intake system, I would double check to see that there are no loose connections in the intake pipe either.

Next clean and reseat your earth connections. There should be two, one to the body and one to the engine block.

After that, if you are still having trouble, you will need to find out what error codes the ECU is putting out and will have to go to a mechanic that has the correct tools and knowledge.

Cheers,

Rob

[SundownerCamper]

Hi Rob,

Thanks for the reply. I did check the lines and filter this morning and the fuel is pumping well into the filter and then from the filter to the head. I did remove the filter and empty the contents into a glass and its very clean. I don't suppose you would know where the earth connections are on the GQ?? I have cleaned the terminals and points on the battery so I know that's all good.

Neil

[rkinsey]

Hi Neil,

I have the 97 GQ RD28T and the earth points go from the neg terminal on the battery to the Body and then accross to the engine block.

Just follow the leads on yours.

As an after thought, change the fuel filter anyway and see if that makes a difference. Quick and cheap. Other than that I couldnt offer any more except to take it to a reputable mecahnic.

Where are you located?

Cheers,
Rob

[threedogs]

You could go to Super Cheap Auto or similar and buy some new earth straps and fit them
, eg battery to block,, battery to body and battery to chassis, IMO cant have too many earths.
as you follow the chassis you'll see all the earth straps, grind back to
bare metal re fix and spray with battery terminal spray

[Robo]

It sound electrical.
worn dissy rotor, cap or modual.
dirty dissy electronic sensor

bad battery, vibration can separate a broken plate & power is lost.
Try tapping air flow metre with your finger listen for rough idle.
bad leads.
Ignition coil and or it's transistor.
ignition barrel can ware-out the contacts, check with multi metre.

OR
throttle body blocked with crap.
O2 sensor worn out but unlikely to cause your symptoms.
split vacum lines.
how old spark plugs.

or a mixture of the above, that will keep ya busy!!

[SundownerCamper]

Hi guys thanks for all the advise and based on your suggestions here are the outcomes:)

OK. 1 TPS and MAF are good. 2. I bought a new dissy to see if there is a different in run and nothing I looked at the rotor and all good on the original so it went back in and the new one back to the shop. 3.Brand new N70z with 760CCA in yesterday and the guy who came out was a auto sparky had him look at the lot and he said was in great wiring condition for a GQ. No leaks no issues.

BUT!!!!! there's more. There was a fooked up noise when I prime my fuel pump like a grinding noise then it runs smooth (i can hear as its a aeroflow and loud) a mate who also wagged work with me yesterday was brave enough to volunteer to lay under the car and look for any leaks as when it runs it STINKS of fuel. When its running and when I touch the accelerator with my hand HUGE amounts of white smoke comes out (unleaded fuel). SO based on this I started working back and looked for any leaks on the lines and any issues with the priming of the fuel.

This is where it gets confusing. The fuel pressure is so strong when the car is off I cant crimp the line to the filter or from the filter to the fuel rail. SO strong that when the car was off for about 5 mins I thought to check my fuel in a clear glass again and when I undid the line from the filter to the rail it sprayed a good 3 meters from the engine bay and fuel came shooting out the line from the fuel rail. SO then I thought maybe fuel pump to strong then realised it was the new pump I have been using for 3 years just a new one of the same model. So that cant be the issue. Then my mate who is entertained watching flys crawl up a wall came out with something unlike him to say he told me to start the car and crimp the fuel return.... This may be the issue folks.

is there supposed to be any pressure on the return line? because I have none running and off I can close the line with my fingers. To my understanding this should be as hard as the fuel in lone??

So based on that :) any ideas.... Im so lost and I know its going to be something simple but its killing me...

Regards
Neil

[Parksy]

Hey mate, it could be your fuel pressure regulator is busted and you're getting über pressure to the injectors, hence why it's running rough and pouring white smoke out the exhaust. If you remove the outlet line from the fuel pressure regulator and switch the car to on(but not start), do you get fuel coming out?(fuel should come out if the fuel pump is serviceable) If you have a pressure gauge, chuck it inline with the fuel filter and you should get 40psi. Any more and I'd say your pressure regulator may be the culprit.

Also, going by your first post, it sounds like you may have more than 1 issue, bad earth connections and such. But that's an easy fix, remove any earth connections, wire brush or scotch brite, re connect, inox. Sorted.

[Robo]

Hey mate, it could be your fuel pressure regulator is busted and you're getting über pressure to the injectors, hence why it's running rough and pouring white smoke out the exhaust. If you remove the outlet line from the fuel pressure regulator and switch the car to on(but not start), do you get fuel coming out?(fuel should come out if the fuel pump is serviceable) If you have a pressure gauge, chuck it inline with the fuel filter and you should get 40psi. Any more and I'd say your pressure regulator may be the culprit.

Also, going by your first post, it sounds like you may have more than 1 issue, bad earth connections and such. But that's an easy fix, remove any earth connections, wire brush or scotch brite, re connect, inox. Sorted.

X 2 on that

[SundownerCamper]

OK thank you again for the assistance. I checked the fuel pressure in and out both at about 80Psi. which is right as I have a high flow pump. Did all the earths and also checked all hoses for vac leaks.....

Still have the same issue though is very very rough on idle.

Cheers
Neil

[Robo]

looks like std reg cant take the flow rate, or simply packed it in.

[SundownerCamper]

God I hope not. I have had the same model pump for a while. Do they just sh!t themselves? no warning just click goooonnneeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee :)

[SundownerCamper]

OK So been a while since I posted and still have the same issue. I bit the bullet and took to another mechanic who charged me 400 for time to find nothing.... He excuse was only knows 80 and 100 series 4wds..

I can get the car started now but every time I get the revs to 2000 it just cuts off and dies immediately.

Has anyone else had this issue?

Cheers
Neil

[SundownerCamper]

I have done the rotor button and a new cap and its running a bit better so I will have to go hunting for the wiring diagram to see what and where things have gone wrong but the earths are all good. The coil lead was arcing which was a concern but that is all sorted now. So I will be hunting the issue but I did lose all my lights except headlights

[Bigcol]

just completely out of left field -

wait until it is dark, no light, run the motor
with a LONG long screwdriver, run along ALL the leads, and also check around the "head" of the Coil (coil or coil pack?)

if your getting sparking, your leads are shot

also, check the earths for the Coil / coil pack

you dont say - but did it run Gas at any time?

also - how about checking your immobilizer / alarm / central locking

it realy sounds like an earthing fault when under load

cheers

[SundownerCamper]

well i thought i had it beat...... but its back lol. ok so i can drive fine in 1st and 2nd. In 3d at 2000rpm dies and i cant speed up. The car still idles but no gogo. so even more confused.

yes use to have gas - since it was taken out i replaced the maf.
coil was tested and all good.
immobilizer all good.

regards
neil

[Avo]

you did say already you tried with another dizzy hey,could also be an advance timing issue.i have,had the vacuum advance stuff up on a dizzy,because it never adjusted it lost it's balls over a certain amount of revs.

[SundownerCamper]

Yeah I know it should be in that area... Im at a mates place today who has a GQ as well so he is helping me brain storm.

[Parksy]

OK thank you again for the assistance. I checked the fuel pressure in and out both at about 80Psi. which is right as I have a high flow pump. Did all the earths and also checked all hoses for vac leaks.....

Still have the same issue though is very very rough on idle.

Cheers
Neil
High flow pump or not, your regulator is meant to regulate your fuel rail pressure to 40psi. Excess pressure(fuel) is returned to the fuel tank. I'd be looking at your pressure regulator.