Draining clutch/brake fluid

[chrisc2306]

Still continuing my task of replacing all the fluids and filters in my TD42 GQ and I am looking for advice on how to completely drain the brake/clutch fluid so I can replace it. So far replacing the other fluids has went pretty smoothly so I hope that I can tackle this too! Thanks in advance guys

[billyj]

you dont, just get the new fluid in a differnt colour(you can get blue or yellow ish) and flush it through the bleeders until only clean new fluid comes out, a complete drain would leave you struggling for weeks to get all the air out

[Oversize]

my DIY kit includes:
- a $2 squirter bottle - new / empty - and write on it 'brake fluid and/or POISON' so it doesn't get used for anything else.
- a clear glass jar that holds the same volume that the system holds (about 1/2 a litre). Mine has a plastic lid I drilled a hole in, small enough to feed the plastic tube through. Makes less mess.
- a 30 cm length (enough to reach from the bleeder nipple to the floor) of clear tube (soft plastic) to fit on the end of the brake/clutch bleeder nipple
- a bottle of brake fluid, check your vehicle specs to ensure your using the correct type, most use DOT 3 or DOT 4
- a spare person (I have done it on my own and it takes an eternity!)

Process:
1. remove the head from the squirter bottle and place the suction tube directly into the brake/clutch fluid tank and suck the shit out while pumping/squirting it into the clear glass jar until the tank is empty.
2. pour new fluid into the tank until full. Try not to spill the fluid on anything, it tends to lift paint and make a long term mess. Wrap a rag around the tank if you have shaky syndrome.
3. remove the 4 wheels if you have the equipment, otherwise work around them. Starting with the wheel furtherest from the brake fluid tank, take the cap off the bleeder nipple and force the plastic tube over the nipple and place the other end in the glass jar with the old fluid. Crack the bleeder nipple nut enough to be able to hand loosen/tighten it with the correct fitting spanner (not a shifter). Place the spare person in the driver seat and open all the car windows so you can both communicate with each other (be prepared for the spare person to get bored so offer substantial reward for services at this point).
Code words ON - means brake is ON. OFF - means brake is OFF.
Instruct the spare person to place foot on the brake gently to push fluid through the system. When spare person is ON, release the bleeder nut enough to let the fluid out and then close it and yell OFF to the spare person.
Keep doing this until new fluid and no air comes out the tube into the glass jar and keep topping up the brake/clutch fluid tank as you go. Tighten the bleeder nut, remove the tube, replace the cap and move to the next wheel. If you have done it properly you shouldn't have to do it all again to remove any remnant old fluid in the system.
4. Repeat step 3 moving to the next furtherest wheel each time. By the time the last wheel is done watch the brake fluid level in the tank and ensure it finishes on the MAX line. Put the lid back on the tank and the jobs done.
5 Same process applies to the clutch. Check your manual for the location of the clutch bleeder nipple/nut.

When you are done, dispose of the DIY kit thoughtfully.

[chrisc2306]

Awesome thanks a lot Oversize!! I am looking to put Dot 4 there shouldn't be any problem mixing that with the existing dot 3 is there?

[Oversize]

Awesome thanks a lot Oversize!! I am looking to put Dot 4 there shouldn't be any problem mixing that with the existing dot 3 is there?

no problem bro, as long as you replace all the fluid. Just don't mix the chilli bin juice. Cheers mate.

[chrisc2306]

All went well thanks again for the awesome how to! What an improvement in the gear changing now no more grinding just a smooth gearbox