The old tb42 clutch fan question???

[tiny]

Hi guy's, just wondering how much friction the fan should have when cold and engine off and do the stock temp gauges fault?? (everything breaks at some stage )

Cut a long story short my temp gauge is always in the hot but it never boils over?

I've replaced stock thermostat, had full system flush and cleaned out fins. There seems to be a fair bit of friction cold as it doest spin and you need to apply small pressure with hand to turn it. The fan looks almost new so it cant be that and im not going thermos as this truck gets thrashed.. Its done 180k...

Any suggestions would be great.:confused:

[mudnut]

G'day, tiny. On my RB30 the fan will rotate a third to almost half a turn when given a flick. It turns smoothly and there is no wobble or play in the mechanism. The original gauges are known to be a bit dodgy. I will get back to you, shortly with some Cold and Hot measurements.

[tiny]

Cheers mate, seeing the gauge on hot is very distracting....lol

[tiny]

Ps I've also got laser/led temp gun.

[mudnut]

The sensor is at the front top drivers side of the engine (RB30, may be different for yours). With the yellow/red wire disconnected it should read 500 ohms Cold and 34 ohms at normal temp (one third up the scale).

[mudnut]

With the engine running and the sensor diconnected, the gauge should read Cold. If it does then the sensor is stuffed. If it stays on hot then we will have to delve deeper.

[mudnut]

Sorry for the delayed and short answers but my wireless internet is cycling on and off. The gauge wiring diagram for the RB30 and the TB42 is the same so I am assuming that the sensors and gauges should be the same also.

[tiny]

Too easy.. When u say sensor disconnected and engine running do you mean get the engine up to hot then disconnect sensor and check with multimeter to determine if sensor is sending correct ohm reading..
The gauge on dash would just drop to cold once disconnected wouldn't it?

[mudnut]

Yes, Check the sensor reading cold first. Then with the engine running after it has warmed up. And yes if it is only the sensor that is faulty it should drop to cold when disconnected (it does on mine). Just as a matter of interest as the engine has cooled, the reading at an eighth warm is 84 ohms, which is what I would expect.

[tiny]

Thanks mate I'll go have a play now..

[tiny]

Cheers sir mud but I need to have a chat with mr snapon. My blue point meter has blown a balljoint.. Wish I still had my Fluke but needed one and he was there. Might just hit repco up in the morn and grab a new sensor and eliminate it. Use to work there so pretty cheap and I'm not sure when old mate snap on turns up.