Sheared off all 6 Wheel Studs Last Night…not happy

[FNQGU]

Whilst driving back to Cairns from a nice little long weekend away camping, catching red claw, kayaking, and generally living the dream… I ended up with my Patrol on the back of a tilt tray.

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/IMG_20140125_192204_741_zps7ksg81jy.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/IMG_20140125_192204_741_zps7ksg81jy.jpg.html)


So, I was coming back down from a 100kph zone into a 60kph zone and I felt that dreaded clunk, wobble, wobble, horrible noise, coming from the rear drivers side. I managed to pull onto the verge and was just about stopped when the whole rear end dropped. On inspection I found all six wheel studs had sheared off and were missing, and the rotor was sitting on the inside edge of the alloy rim.

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/IMG_20140125_182555_198_zpslttziwux.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/IMG_20140125_182555_198_zpslttziwux.jpg.html)

Found these three on the road near where I first felt/heared the noise and one just behind the vehicle where I had stopped.

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/IMG_20140125_182609_230_zpss5bucarp.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/IMG_20140125_182609_230_zpss5bucarp.jpg.html)

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/IMG_20140125_190808_009_zpslo9xgarj.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/IMG_20140125_190808_009_zpslo9xgarj.jpg.html)

This morning was spent bashing out the studs and putting new ones in, plus straightening the stone guard. Otherwise I was extremely lucky not to have had a serious accident I think.

So, what caused this? I wasn't exactly loaded up to the max, and was on a gentle straight stretch. Did I over-tighten the wheel nuts? I had done them up by hand, but not with a torque wrench.

[NissanGQ4.2]

Very lucky boy......

Wonder if it has something 2 do with the issue of alloy wheel nuts coming off???????

[the ferret]

The old story mate, alloy wheels and Nissan, this is quite common, and yes, you were lucky.
Cheers, the ferret.

[BigRAWesty]

I don't think studs popping like that is caused by alloy wheel..
I think this is caused by over tightening them..
They have clean snapped so I'd say max setting On a rattle gun..

When an alloy rim is the causes you will see nuts loosening then flog out, and then snap..

But, very lucky..

[MEGOMONSTER]

This couldn't have been very ugly.

[threedogs]

And just after issuing my check your nuts thread, I'm of the opinion that over the years with
mechanics using rattle guns they have stretched the studs, to a point where they could take no more
Tojo owners upgrade to 14mm studs from the 100s ,might be worth looking at for Patrol owner too
Lucky no one hurt so a good out come for what other wise I would not like to think about, tattlotto time

edit ::: Nissans problem is the nuts coming loose not the studs snapping

[mudnut]

Who did the nuts up, last time? I purchased a micrometer type torque wrench, years ago. I always check the wheel nuts are torqued up to 89 ftlbs, on the Q. Even after the wheels have been done at the tyre shop or mechanics. As a precaution, I also check them after a few ks anytime I have removed and refitted the wheel.

[threedogs]

I'm saying stretched from years of tyre changes , weird it was rear only ,
makes me think about extra power from your Chev motor. I always get
who ever changes my wheels for me to use those torque ends for the rattle gun.
that way if out bush I can loosen them myself

Can you put some pics of the snapped end to see if it was cracked for a while??

[nissannewby]

I would also say they have been over tightened, also if they have been on and off a few times, rattle gunned etc. for the cost of it, it's probably not a bad idea to do a studs and nut change with each new set of Tyres.

I doubt it's the power as there a far more neck snapping patrols out there compared to benK's. Usually axles or centers let go before studs in high power applications.

[Cuppa]

What is the other side like?

[nissannewby]

What is the other side like?

Good call cuppa. I would be checking the rest as well.

[threedogs]

Agree they were over tightened but just throwing ideas out there .
I'd like to see the part where it sheared that will tell a story for sure.

@cuppa good point what are LHS studs like, seeing all being equal

[FNQGU]

I just bought a full set to replace the LHS but will pull them tomorrow.

Couple of pics of the studs a bit closer up.

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/IMG_20140126_173902_300_zpsxtodqrhl.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/IMG_20140126_173902_300_zpsxtodqrhl.jpg.html)

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/IMG_20140126_174018_131_zpsqobzt0vp.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/IMG_20140126_174018_131_zpsqobzt0vp.jpg.html)

I tend to think they were over-tightened, and if that is the case, it is entirely my fault. I tightened the nuts by hand with a normal wheel brace. This morning, I checked the nuts on the rest of the vehicle and they were all fine. Not hard to get off, but not loose either. Nice and firm

[the ferret]

Just replace them with left hand thread Toyota on the passenger side, problem solved.
Cheers, the ferret

[mudnut]

Over tightened with a normal wheel brace. Did you have weeties for brekky?

[FNQGU]

perhaps worn out studs then….? LOL. I'm still not convinced it was over-tightening, but why else would all six go at once? I change my wheels fairly regularly between the alloys as seen, for general town driving, and a set of steelies with MT's on them for proper bush trips. I don't have a rattle gun, just the wheel brace.

[mudnut]

It also depends on what was done before you got the vehicle as well.

[FNQGU]

Gotcha! Might replace studs all around then. Got to have confidence in the vehicle when away from the bitumen for good periods of time.

[nissannewby]

perhaps worn out studs then….? LOL. I'm still not convinced it was over-tightening, but why else would all six go at once? I change my wheels fairly regularly between the alloys as seen, for general town driving, and a set of steelies with MT's on them for proper bush trips. I don't have a rattle gun, just the wheel brace.

Do you use the same nuts for the 2 sets of wheels? I know the allied nuts that are supplied with their wheels have quite a deep taper.

[mudnut]

While we are talking studs'n' nuts, What brand of replacements would you trust, Matt?

[nissannewby]

While we are talking studs'n' nuts, What brand of replacements would you trust, Matt?

I haven't really used many but genuine items seem to hold their integrity better than the aftermarket items (studs). As for nuts the enclosed (acorn style I think) are good as the keep most of the crap out. Also the tapers in some wheels can be different and I believe this is why allied supply new nuts with their wheels apart from looks.

[PMC]

I just bought a full set to replace the LHS but will pull them tomorrow.

Couple of pics of the studs a bit closer up.

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/IMG_20140126_173902_300_zpsxtodqrhl.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/IMG_20140126_173902_300_zpsxtodqrhl.jpg.html)

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/IMG_20140126_174018_131_zpsqobzt0vp.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/IMG_20140126_174018_131_zpsqobzt0vp.jpg.html)

I tend to think they were over-tightened, and if that is the case, it is entirely my fault. I tightened the nuts by hand with a normal wheel brace. This morning, I checked the nuts on the rest of the vehicle and they were all fine. Not hard to get off, but not loose either. Nice and firm

G'day Ben,

Chev power was to blame mate. lol

The only other thing i can see is the thickness of the steel rim V your alloy rims, ie, the overall length of thread. The extra thickness of the alloy rims would only allow so much thread into the nut, over tightening the nut would cause extra stain on the thread, heat,friction and a bump in the road would then cause the appropriate catastrophic failure of the thread. that is only my opinion!

PS, as what nissannewby and other have suggested check all the other wheels.

Regards,

RLI

[happygu]

While we are talking studs'n' nuts, What brand of replacements would you trust, Matt?
Mudnut,

I went through this very same dilemma when I purchased some spare studs for our Simpson Desert trip....

Patrolapart had genuine and non-genuine wheel studs, and I asked for their advice on which ones to carry, and despite the OEM ones breaking, thus causing us to carry spare studs and nuts, they recommended the genuine articles as they perform better in the long run.

You can carry a single rear wheel spare set, and use these for fronts and rears, even though the studs are too long for the front wheels and need to break through the end of the nut itself, so that the stud sticks through the end of the original captive nut....and actually tightens up against the rim.

Mic

[BigRAWesty]

Gotcha! Might replace studs all around then. Got to have confidence in the vehicle when away from the bitumen for good periods of time.

Yes I think if you have only used a brace I'd be changing em all..
Does look like a stretch snap not a sheer..

Not overly expensive hay.. At half a million k's I might do mine to..

[FNQGU]

Do you use the same nuts for the 2 sets of wheels? I know the allied nuts that are supplied with their wheels have quite a deep taper.

Yes, same set of wheel nuts. Should I be getting a second set for the steel ROH rims? Do different rims have different tapers?

[FNQGU]

Yes I think if you have only used a brace I'd be changing em all..
Does look like a stretch snap not a sheer..

Not overly expensive hay.. At half a million k's I might do mine to..

I think your right mate. Time to change them all out. Just for peace of mind if nothing else, and it aint a hard job, or overly expensive, so I have no excuses.

[nissannewby]

Yes, same set of wheel nuts. Should I be getting a second set for the steel ROH rims? Do different rims have different tapers?

Mate I am not 100% sure but it would be something I would look into. I know myself that the nuts on my old genuine alloys didn't quite sit right on steel wheels. I now have a full set of allied with there supplied nuts. The tapers might not be different but if they are (depth angle etc) they could put added strain on your wheels, nuts and studs.

[nissannewby]

I think your right mate. Time to change them all out. Just for peace of mind if nothing else, and it aint a hard job, or overly expensive, so I have no excuses.

Yeah even the fronts on the gu are a little easier as they have cutouts in the rotors for the studs. GQ you have to remove the rotor from the hub

[Cuppa]

I believe that the nuts for alloys DO have a different taper than those for steels.

Is there any elongation of the holes in your alloys. (Maybe put up a pic?).
I’m wondering if the nuts loosened off a bit allowing the wheel to move on the studs resulting in them shearing. I have heard of this occuring on caravans.

After you have replaced all studs (If it were mine I’d do all 4 wheels) I’d suggest different nuts for alloy & steel.

[BigRAWesty]

I believe that the nuts for alloys DO have a different taper than those for steels.

Is there any elongation of the holes in your alloys. (Maybe put up a pic?).
I’m wondering if the nuts loosened off a bit allowing the wheel to move on the studs resulting in them shearing. I have heard of this occuring on caravans.

After you have replaced all studs (If it were mine I’d do all 4 wheels) I’d suggest different nuts for alloy & steel.

It's the company who change tapers, not so much just steel to alloy. So yes is you run multiple sets of rims ensure you have the correct nut to suit..

[FNQGU]

Thanks guys, I'll take another good look tomorrow.

Cuppa, I didn't notice any elongation today, but there was some areas that had been chewed out a bit. There is also some decent scoring on the inside of the alloy rim and I plan to take it to a tyre and wheel specialist to see if it is likely to affect structural integrity. At best I am guessing it might need a balance again. At worst - replacement. I'll also try to see if I can find out the angles of the camber on the ROH steelies compared to the Allied Alloys. Might be some data on their websites if I am lucky.

I will definitely replace the studs all 4 corners to be safe and will look to carry spare studs and nuts as standard practice from now on.

[FNQGU]

It's the company who change tapers, not so much just steel to alloy. So yes is you run multiple sets of rims ensure you have the correct nut to suit..

Thanks Kal, I will definitely look at doing this. Until now it hadn't even crossed my mind. Somehow one of those things where I just 'assumed' that tapers would all be the same.