Painter Wanted

[bigfut]

Hi Guys,

Im looking for someone who could sandblast (or similar), and paint a trailer chassis for me?
Im in Melbourne, and happy to take it anywhere to get done.

It's an ex army trailer, so the chassis is a bit different to your standard chassis. All wiring etc has been removed ready to go.
39769

[threedogs]

Yeah wait till tomorrow and I'll get waynes number for you , up in Airport west is that ok. Good rates

[threedogs]

You'll need to replace bearing but that's not a biggie, those army trailers are awesome.
what are the plans just as a box or with the the canvas cover

And if you like my powder coaters is just around the corner, as they rust very fast after being blasted

[bigfut]

Thanks for that. Yeah the trailer is great. Good clearance, tows well behind the patrol, and water tight for river crossings, as it has the fully sealed tub.
The plan for it is a repaint, rhino line the inside of the tub. I want to fabricate some ladder racks for it to hold a tinnie to sit just above the height of the canopy.

Paint wise, I am just looking to get the trailer re painted in "olive drab" to keep it looking rugged. If they could do that, I'd be interested in pricing.

[P4trol]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/01/44.jpg

Like this?!

The springs will separate from the chassis, and the three parts will be able to be sandblasted. Get it primed too. Might cost about $500.

Painting is fairly easy. You may not get the exact olive drab, but people can mix up something fairly similar. A compressor, paint pot, thinner, mask, garage, and a few pointers, and you're away.

I wouldn't say bearings definitely need replacing - have a look first. They would be roughly the same size as the patrol front wheel bearings (large one). Just try and install them in exactly the same place after cleaning and greasing.

[bigfut]

Yep exactly like that one.
The tub on mine was past it when I got it, so I picked up another tub all primed ready to go. Now just need to get the chassis cleaned up and painted, and it should be good to go.

[threedogs]

There is a spray painter close by they sprayed my hilux tub camper @ a reasonable price. I'll PM the details

[P4trol]

My tub was uber rusty. I replaced the floor, top edge of the sides, and numerous holes cut out and patched. A lot of work. I got really good on the grinder.

Are you going to use the pintle ring it came with?

[threedogs]

I love those trailers now that's one I would take to the Tip or across the Simmo or CSR.

[bigfut]

My tub was uber rusty. I replaced the floor, top edge of the sides, and numerous holes cut out and patched. A lot of work. I got really good on the grinder.

Are you going to use the pintle ring it came with?

The tub was pretty good rust wise, but during it's time in the army it copped a hit to the LHF corner (someone must have turned and forgot the trailer was on.....). It bent the tub, but the chassis was untouched. I was planning to repair it, but then stumbled upon the replacement tub already blasted and primered. Its just unbolt old tub, bolt on new tub. What a great design!!

I purchased a hayman reese style pintle hook for the towbar, and have been using that so far. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Truck-Trailer-Tow-Hitch-Pintle-Hook-Receiver-Bar-Combination-/120980192577?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c2afb3d41&_uhb=1

The pintle hook seems pretty good. I towed the trailer back from Sydney. It behaved well enough on road, and I have since taken it camping in the high country, where it seemed to perform alright too. The trailer is more or less the right height for the patrol, but looks stupidly too high on the back of the territory...

[bigfut]

I love those trailers now that's one I would take to the Tip or across the Simmo or CSR.
Agreed, this is hopefully what this one will be doing. It seems perfect for the task with things like the grease nipples on the hubs etc. They make it nice and easy to keep it in shape

[threedogs]

What style hitch are you going to use, as these have a big "O" for a pintle hook set up

[bigfut]

What style hitch are you going to use, as these have a big "O" for a pintle hook set up

I've got a hayman reese style pintle hook that goes in the detachable tow bar square. That is performing well so far, with minimal rattles, so will keep that for now, but may look into getting the proper Nissan pintle hook that bolts in place of the useless tow point on the back step.

[P4trol]

I've done that too. I bought a genuine NATO rotating pintle hook from evilbay. The trailer came from an era where it was normal to have the pintle ring rotate, and the hook on the vehicle fixed. Apparently it is actually safer to have the hook rotate, and the trailer ring fixed. The trailer can do both. You need to unbolt it from the drawbar. At the back is a big bolt with a washer with a flat side behind it. Depending where the flat side of the washer is will determine whether it rotates or not. For the pintle hook in the link you posted, you should have the ring on the trailer rotating. For me, with a rotating pintle hook on the back of the patrol, the trailer should be fixed.

NEVER HAVE BOTH ROTATING!

To fit the pintle hook on the back of the patrol in place of the flimsy tie down loop: I had to remove the aluminium step on the back of the GU. Also a small amount of backyard modification to the larger rear door. I bought a backing plate for the chains to go to. The spare tyre on the door is not quite in the best spot for some manouvres. I'm going for a rear bar with tyre carriers, so it doesn't worry me too much.

You may need to add mudflaps, depending on the stance of the local constabulary/roads authority. I do know that with mine and the tyres, it throws a decent hail of stones. Also the hitch on the back (so you can daisy chain multiple trailers together, or hitch onto the back of the trailer for a recovery - and I'll post up a pic soon) may need to be covered, as it may be viewed as an obstruction. I have seen it relocated to the front of the trailer above the drawbar to mount the spare. I am of the opinion of keeping it.

In the same way you may need to come up with some way of preventing stones from bouncing off the front of the trailer back on to the car.

I replaced the lights on mine with LED ones. It didn't come with the poxy original ones. The ones I chose were round LED/tail/brake all in one units. They were the same diameter as the reflector mounts. A little exposed, but bright. The originals aren't anything flash.

I had to bend up a new canopy bow. My brother made up the cover for it out of the heaviest canvas you can buy. The original cover is fairly loose fitting and a lot lighter. They can be bought for a little shy of $300. If you make your own you can vary the height of the canopy bow if desired.

You will need safety chains. If you need to add them, there are EMEIs (army modification instructions) floating around the internet that tell you where to weld them on, and how long they should be.

[threedogs]

Would it be easier to extend the draw bar out to 1800x 6mm thick wall seamless pipe

[P4trol]

The bolt on the back of the pintle ring

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/01/45.jpg




My mental picture of how the trailer will help me when the patrol breaks down. The figures in army clothes will be my kids.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/01/46.jpg



This pic was borrowed from AULRO and shows how they have been daisy chained together in the past. You wouldn't get away with it on the road these days though. For more info on the trailer, visit http://www.remlr.com/ and select trailers from the menu on the LH side. Then 'Australian Army 1/2 ton'.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/01/47.jpg



This pic is from a place in strathpine, brisbane with the trailer they were trying to sell. It shows where they have welded a bracket at the top above the drawbar for the spare. These trailers are being sold off by the dozen at the ex miltary vehicle auctions around the country.


http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/01/48.jpg

I've got heaps more pics if you want.

[threedogs]

still pull good dollars too, If I sell my camper I would look seriously at one of them.
Just to carry a bit of extra gear to camp.
what prices are they asking

Only down side would be 5 stud tyres to suit the LR

[P4trol]

Would it be easier to extend the draw bar out to 1800x 6mm thick wall seamless pipe


The original drawbar is one piece of pipe. Although the trailer might benefit with stability (at least on road) from a longer drawbar, how strong would such an addition be?

[threedogs]

IMO it would track better, plus you could laminate the pipe so it wont flex , but its too small to carry big weights
Think its too small for my use ,
I heard or read they go for $750

[P4trol]

As for prices, a quick look in this http://www.aulro.com/afvb/military-vehicles-general/165101-army-vehicle-disposal-80.html thread says the trailers are still going for $700 - 1000. That's a fair bit considering it will probably still need work. The thread also contains a way to display past final bid prices. I see some nice examples every now and again on ebay too. I bought mine on ebay in three pieces. $375. Man it was rusty, and did I mention had to be lifted onto the trailer:

39801

Here's a thread mentioning bearings http://www.aulro.com/afvb/military-vehicles-general/180493-no-5-hub-bearings.html



Someone has decided to help people become educated before they purchase an ex military vehicle:http://www.buymilitaryvehicles.com/

[P4trol]

The trailer was designed to be compatable with the land rovers. Same wheels, wheel bearings, (probably indicator/brake globes), same distance between front/rear wheels of land rover as rear landrover to trailer wheels so it tracked OK there.

They actually are quite good at the larger weights. I have seen in excess of 1Tonne of firewood in one. It is what you call overbuilt, and the springs are no exception. It travels better with some weight. Empty they can bounce around a lot. I run 16 - 19 PSI in the tyres.

Tyres need tubes inside if you use the rims it came with.

[bigfut]

Im still deciding what to do about the wheels. Whilst the current wheels and tyres (landrover 5 stud and bar treads) are good, I wouldnt mind looking into changing the hubs to suit 33" Patrol wheels to match the patrol. This would mean new hubs, and replacing the standard guards with wider ones. This would widen the track as well, making the trailer more stable off road, and have a closer track to the Patrol. Just another idea I have for it....

I am filling in all the holes from the old lights, and will flush mount some of the led strip tail lights/indicators to make things simple and clean, and no bulbs to blow.

I have a canopy bow, just no canopy..... There's a mob in Ballarat making reproductions on ebay, so that might be a goer.

With the pintle hook, Im keeping an eye out on ebay for a rotating one, so Ill just have to be patient. It seems its better to have that rotate, so less wear and tear on the trailers. Apparently the trailer ring rotating caused excess wear.

Threedogs - Despite it's short drawbar, it handles really well off road, staying in nice and tight with the tow vehicle. Great for tight tracks. When I got it home it took me about 6 attempts to get it up my driveway. I can back just about anything, but this takes a certain knack to reverse well. Ive got the hang of it now!

Price I paid $400 for mine, due to the tub damage on the original tub.

[threedogs]

A solid 50 x 50mm axle with 6 stud hubs would cost around $250 From memory.
Trouble with that is your bearings are pissing little holden or Ford jobs.
It would be ideal if you matched the trailer to the patrol, width wise ,
then you could box up the outside of trailer for more storage
@ Bigfut if you need a hand welding etc just give a holler eh

[bigfut]

That's what I was thinking. At the same time I would look at electric brakes too. The trailer can take a 500kg payload, which would mean roughly 860kgs max loaded.
For the $300-$400 extra it would cost, would be worth it IMO. There's nothing worse than being loaded up with a trailer and having that "will I be able to stop" feeling in an emergency or similar. The patrol already has an electric brake controller thanks to its previous caravan owner, so there wouldn't be extra costs.

Thanks for the offer three dogs. I appreciate it

[threedogs]

You can buy axle brakes and fenders from my trailer place in Garden drive Tullamarine.
If you do see Scotty he is a ledgend, I'd think $750 for the lot.
you'll need to measure from where rim bolts to hub and the guys will weld up an axle.
You could spring over/under depending on ride height, easy as to do IMO

[bigfut]

Hi Guys,

I've never welded in my life, so wondering if you could answer this one for me. Apart from the several pairs of mounting holes at the top of this crossmember on the trailer, there are holes from previous lights, random 6mm cable holes etc. All ranging from 6mm to 50cent coin size (two light holes (20cent size, 1 50cent hole, and several 6mm holes). Before I get the trailer blasted and painted, I wanted to fill these holes in, so it is all filled in, and then once painted, I could install the new lights on a clean surface.

1. Can these be filled in with a welder, or is their a better way?
2. Is anyone up to the task? You would be compensated for your efforts.

Thanks!

3992039919

[mudski]

The only way is see to fill them in would be to run some plate behind the rail and then weld in the holes, grind them back and your done.

[P4trol]

Get it blasted first, this will dig out the rust in the holes (if any) and will truly show any damage. Then do your patching and filling.

(Inside the folded lip at the top of the sides is hard to get at with the sandblaster. You will have to feel with your hands. It's hard to paint too.)