Paule starting NADS

[Paule]

OK so I've ordered a quick fit boost adapter and vdo pyro and boost kit. 30 psi and 900 c gauges. I want to get the clamp setup for the probe but don't no which one will fit the vdo probe? I'm a fitter by trade and am thinking I can make one out of a hose clamp, is there much to them? As I've only seen em online. I think the autron one looks good but is a bit overpriced for a clamp, and I don't no if it will fit the vdo probe. Has any one else used a clamp set up on the vdo pyro and if so were did you get the clamp from?
Thanks guys for your help in advance

[threedogs]

What do you mean by clamp .?
Pyro wiil need a thread to suit probe welded in after the turbo about 75-100mm

[Paule]

You can get what looks like a hose clamp with a nut and feral attached to it. So you don't have weld the female thread onto your dump pipe. You drill a hole the size of your probe into your dump pipe, then clamp probe into position. Welding is the best way to go but I want to upgrade exhaust in the not to distant future once I have the funds.

[Paule]

The other question is where did people get there pillar pods, and are they happy with em? Ive heard alot of mixed reviews on em, as in quality and fit. I want to get a double pod one and want to get a good 1 first time.

[mudski]

Just weld a probe in mate. Its not a big job and then its done properly.

[oddkid82]

The other question is where did people get there pillar pods, and are they happy with em? Ive heard alot of mixed reviews on em, as in quality and fit. I want to get a double pod one and want to get a good 1 first time.

I got my pillar pod off eBay the seller is 4x4concepts I found it was a great fit.
I have too used the clamp method for the pyro gauge. I will end up welding a bung in when I upgrade to a 3 inch.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/01/41.jpg

[Paule]

Thanks oddkid the pillar pod looks ace, love the idea of the switches there.

[outback]

I know we all talk about NADS, but at times I wonder if NADS should also include the Glow plug timer issues, particularly for the DZ30 Di engines.
Passing thought here.

[meh]

What is the glow plug timer issue?

[mudski]

What is the glow plug timer issue?

The glow plugs actually still stay on for five minutes (I think it is) after the car has been started. This can cause the ceramic tips on the glow plugs to drop off in the cylinders. The gpt mod lets you control how long they are on for.

[outback]

The idea is to control the length of time the glow plug stays on after starting the engine. With the Di engine it is a bout 5 minutes. The aim of using the timer is to reduce this. Some people reduce it to about 30 sec after startup.

The best references to this are here:
Glow plugs - why the missing tips ????? (http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/zd30-di-engine-3-litre-71/glow-plugs-why-missing-tips-59903/)

and
Need Help Fitting Glow Plug Timer Please (http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/nissan-patrol-gu-gr-10/need-help-fitting-glow-plug-timer-please-73514/)

Also
Need Help Fitting Glow Plug Timer Please (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?6537-Need-Help-Fitting-Glow-Plug-Timer-Please&p=151181)

The first link has a lot of detail as well as the usual added trivia.

My suspicion is that the glow plug issue with the Di engine is part of the grenade issue. Nissan seem to have reduced the after start timing of the plugs with the CRD engine.

Also with any of the glow plugs the indications being they need to be physically checked about 80,000 Km after installing.

[Paule]

Thanks for that outback, I'll put it on the to do list, thanks 3 dogs for the pm. Ok so I've got my gauge kit and am keen to put it in. So I have question, to get the dump pipe out do I need to undo it where it joins onto the turbo, bellow the heat shield? because I can't get that heat shield out no matter what I try.

[mudski]

Lol. You just gotta hold your tounge the right way bud. It will come out. This needs to be removed before you remove the dump pipe too.

[Paule]

What else has to be removed, I have got rubber heater hoses on the motor side off, the bracket holding the solid ones. The solenoid bracket above the turbo. I got it close once but the aircon pipes were gunna get chopped. So I slide back to where it started. Thanks for your help mudski

[Mud Gecko]

You shouldn't have to force it out, like mudski said just gotta get your tongue at the right angle :tongue: . When you get it out, chop the corners down with a grinder to give yourself a bit more room.

[oddkid82]

I also struggled for hours, I then went inside for a coffee break and to read up more on how it comes, went out for another go and presto it came out in with no trouble at all. You just have to jiggle it in the right way.

[Paule]

Ok so Ive been tring for hours yesterday and all morning today, my patience is done, after searching the forum some more I can tell I'm having the drama is because it's a ST-L with rear aircon. Which is why I can get it so close but the rear aircon pipes get in the way. I'm gunna get the clamp set up for the egt which I reckon I'll be able to fit on without completely removing the shield. Efin thing, and sorry if I insulted any of my Japanese neighbors.

[mudski]

Ahh rear air con too. Of course. I did read somewhere a guy attacked his with a dremel so it was easier to move around those pipes.

[Paule]

Yeah the bloody rear aircon.lol I wish I had a dremal, I thought about pulling out the 6" grinder but was running out of time. I'll put it down to a practice run. Lol. Think I'll do the boost gauge first

[mudski]

A Dremel is a must in my opinion. Not expensive and such a handy tool to have.

[boots]

Mine is the stl with rear air con .no grief with the shroud and air con but it wasn't a pleasure that's for sure

[Paule]

Boots I'm in s/e Melbourne and am prepared to travel, I'll undo all the bolts and anything else you want me to do, would be over the moon if you could show me how it's done. I got ABS aswell but that didn't seem to be in the way really. On a happier note I fitted up my boost gauge today so I have finally had a win. Yeah. Lol. Only took about an hour. Hardest bit was getting through the fire wall.

[boots]

Where abouts in the s/e would be easier at yours and engine cold

[Paule]

Yeah boots I'm happy to meet any where you want I'm in between Frankston, dandenong and cranbourne, to give you an idea of where I am without putting my address up on the post. I got a quote to fit the egt of $400-$500 today and they wanted to tap a hole straight into the dump pipe to fit the probe. I said I didn't think the wall thickness of the dump pipe was thick enough, but they assured me it was, is this correct? Because if it is I'll drill n tap it myself. What is the wall thickness of the dump pipe? As the thread of the vdo probe isn't that fine.

[DSzuke]

I don't know the exact thickness of the dump pipe but I tapped mine and screwed the probe "nut" (is it called a "plumb"??) straight in.

It is pretty thin and I was a bit skeptical when I did it but figured I'd just pull it back out and get a nut welded on if I had too. It has been fine for over 18 months now.

Mine has rear air-co too. Keep going the shroud will come off without taking anything else apart.

[boots]

Sorry paule just to much on my plate the next fortnight to assist

[Paule]

That's ok boots, cheers anyway mate. My work has just asked me to go to Poland next Saturday, for 2 weeks. So I won't be doing much to the troll in the next 3 weeks. Thanks to every one for your help so far.

[mudski]

You can drill and tap the pipe but do the job properly and weld a bung in there. just incase the fitting thats tapped in decided to come lose you don't wanna be going through the dump removal process again. Do it once, and do it proper...

[Paule]

I agree mudski, I think the best way to go is to get a bigger after market dump pipe, weld the threaded boss in before you start. I'm not sure what size to go to, maybe 3"? Or the cost of getting one.

[mudski]

I got a 3inch Redback system with hi flow cat and no muffler. Goes real good.

[mudski]

Hey just a thought. I have a dump pipe which I have gutted the cat in it and it has the bung in the pipe. Its kind of a loan pipe that members have used and I just pass it around and when they get a new pipe, they just give it back. If you want to loan it, so you can get your gauges in. Then get your bigger zorst and get the bung welded in The offer is there.

[Paule]

thank you very much mudski, you r too kind and I might just take you up on your offer when i get back from os. I'm going for 2 weeks for work, wish it was a holiday, lol. Also i checked out your link and ill get the egr plate, needle and dawes valve from you in the not to distant futre. Once again thank you for the offer and thanks for all your help.

[mudski]

Too easy bud.

[Paule]

Well I'm back from Poland and ready to continue my nads. Im thinking of doing the egr plate and Dawes needle and valve next. Is it ok to do before I fit the egt gauge up? Ive got the boost gauge done and I'm only getting about 4 or 5 psi at 100kmh on flat road.

[threedogs]

with low boost your EGTs might be high, I'd be putting in the EGT gauge
first then when you fiddle with the dawes you can see whats happening
Ideally you'd want 10psi at 100kph

[Lemo79]

Well I'm back from Poland and ready to continue my nads. Im thinking of doing the egr plate and Dawes needle and valve next. Is it ok to do before I fit the egt gauge up? Ive got the boost gauge done and I'm only getting about 4 or 5 psi at 100kmh on flat road.

I have seen the egt's increase about 75 - 100c when my boost was dropping to 5 at 100km/h, still within safe limits but running hotter than necessary and already hot if you hit a good incline I would see big figures pretty quickly, so take it easy till you do the gauge. It's a tough one to decied which to do first as i feel those boost figures will be causing high egt's and so need rectifying asap, and you need the gauge to see what the egt's are. Just don't do the EGR plate without both the Dawes and needle valves as this will also cause boost probs on a Di.

Lemo.

[Paule]

Thanks 3dogs and Leno. Yeah I've read on the forum that low boost = high egt. I've got an egt gauge and probe but had some problems fitting it to the stock dump pipe, also I want to upgrade my zoorst to a 3" soon so I thought I'd wait till then. After seeing my boost figures I thought the best thing to do would be the dawes needle and valve as this would lower my egt's.

[threedogs]

STD mine ran very low boost figures, then I did the gauges first.
then fitted the dawes with the help of Boots, then later fitted the needle valve.
Then over the next few months fiddled with the Dawes and needle till I got it to a point where
I thought everything looked right boost egts etc. Max boost on mine is 20psi and boost at 100kph is 10 psi

[Paule]

Ok so I've had a win today, I got the bloody heat shield off. Yes. I've drilled and tapped the dump pipe and got the thermocouple in, still not wired up but I'm well on my way. The question I've got is, is it ok to drive with the heat shield off? I will put it back on after trimming it up and putting a hole in it for the probe. Is any one driving around without the shield in place?

[Paule]

Anyone driving around without the turbo heatshield on?

[v8 performances]

No it should be fine you may not even notice it the only thing would be a little extra cabin heat,

[Paule]

Thanks v8, is anyone driving without the turbo heatshield on

[Paule]

Quick question, is it ok to cut the cable to length that came with my vdo pyro probe? So not the ones on the probe but the length of cable that joins to it. If that makes sense. Thanks guys

[Lemo79]

Not familiar with the vdo gauge, but I wouldn't as it may be calibrated to that length. Curl it up and hide it somewhere would be my advice.

Lemo.

[Paule]

Ok so I've had my egr blocked, Dawes and needle valve, pyro and boost gauge in for a while now. I had it set up so max boost was at about 18psi but spool up was a bit slow, I think I was getting about 5-6psi at 100ks. So I've been trying to get it to about 10 psi at 100ks but to do so I've had to back off max boost because of hitting limp mode. I've got it to 16psi max boost and sitting at about 8-9psi at 100ks. Now when the engine is cold, even after about 10 mins, I've been getting limp mode again. I'm getting limp mode even at about 12psi until it fully warms up. I could understand if I was putting the boot in to it but I'm only taking it easy (not even keeping up with the traffic in front of me). Once it warms up it is fine. Ive heard of cold limp mode before on here, but I'm not sure what to do, I'm thinking of backing the needle valve off more but then I'll only be getting low boost at 100ks. Any suggestions would be much appreciated? Thanks in advace

[mudski]

What's your maf like? Had a clean lately? Your mid range boost is a tad low too. You need to wind in the needle a little to raise the mid range boost.

[boots]

Has the VNT actuator adjuster been fiddled with ? It may need to be ..just my 2cents.

[Paule]

Cheers mudski, no I Havnt cleaned it in a while I'll give that a go, ps I want to grab a catch can off you soon (no rush as funds are tight) and I'll drop your dump pipe off at the same time as I didn't end up using it. Thanks mate

[Paule]

Has the VNT actuator adjuster been fiddled with ? It may need to be ..just my 2cents.

Cheers for your 2 cents boots, I did take the solenoid off the top of the turbo when I was struggling to get the heat shield off ( I now no I didn't need to), but im 99% sure that I got it all back in the exact spot it was in. I didn't touch the grub screw. If cleaning the maf doesn't work do you think I should make actuator screw longer or shorter?

[boots]

It has been a fair while since I set mine up but from memory shorter helped . I also have a needle valve but it is fully open and have not had to fiddle with it ever.

[mudski]

Cheers for your 2 cents boots, I did take the solenoid off the top of the turbo when I was struggling to get the heat shield off ( I now no I didn't need to), but im 99% sure that I got it all back in the exact spot it was in. I didn't touch the grub screw. If cleaning the maf doesn't work do you think I should make actuator screw longer or shorter?

Your a brave man touching the actuator arm. You eff this up and it will make things worse. Just come over to my place, I have a good 2nd hand MAF here you can try if you like.

[Paule]

Your a brave man touching the actuator arm. You eff this up and it will make things worse. Just come over to my place, I have a good 2nd hand MAF here you can try if you like.

G'day mudski, thanks for the offer mate you are a champion. I just cleaned my maf sensor. So we will see how that go's if that doesn't help I'll let you know.

[mudski]

No problems mate. If your maf is stuffed, cleaning it is not going to help though. But it's certainly worth trying anyhow.

[Paule]

Ok nads are all done, thanks for everyones help. Onto the next mod. Lol. I can get a 2nd hand Nissan winch bar, first question what are they worth? 2nd question, will it fit the runva 11xp? And are they a good bar?

[Bacho86]

Ok nads are all done, thanks for everyones help. Onto the next mod. Lol. I can get a 2nd hand Nissan winch bar, first question what are they worth? 2nd question, will it fit the runva 11xp? And are they a good bar?

Can't help you with the $$ but the factory nissan steel winch bars were all made by ARB so they are decent. The Runva 11xp fits in nicely to the bar, I just installed mine last week before the trip and I know a few other guys here have got them as well. I've got a bit of a write up in my build thred for the winch install if you go down that track

52792

[jonez911]

hey paule was it just your maff that was causing the issues?
im just about to start this process and getting my head around all the issues that can arise

[Paule]

hey paule was it just your maff that was causing the issues?
im just about to start this process and getting my head around all the issues that can arise

No I ended up setting max boost (Dawes) to 14 psi and just kept tweaking my needle valve so it wasn't spooling up so fast

[threedogs]

how are your egt's at say 100K freeway

[Paule]

how are your egt's at say 100K freeway

Egt's on 100k flat road freeway are about 250 C. Boost is at about 8 psi

[mudski]

Nice and cool...

[Paule]

Quick question is a factory Nisan snorkel the same on a 4.2td as the zd30

[Paule]

I got my answer from mudski thanks mate