14mm Punch for Sump

[flashman1207]

Am thinking about doing some of the stuff on the TD42 GQ in readiness for a turbo. Not going to be able to do it all in one go (lack of funds mainly) so will try and do some of it while the car is still onroad. So first cab off the rank is the oil return in the Sump. I don't want to get into the pro's and cons of the various ways of doing it but am going to be (and correct me if the sizes are wrong here) punching a 14mm hole and then thread it with a 3/8bsp tap. Am then going to screw a 3/8 to 5/8 bsp Hosetail fitting onto (and use JB Weld to secure it) and then run 5/8 oil pipe up to turbo...

Questions
1. Where the heck can I find a 14mm sump spike or punch (am in Perth)
2. Have I got the right size fittings above?
3. Wheres the best place in Perth to buy such fittings?
4. What else can I do without pulling the exhaust manifold off?
5. What size allen key is required for the oil feed screw in the block by the engine mount?

PPS Is there a reasonably priced wreckers ANYWHERE in Perth. Am looking for a ZD30 airbox and a Denco/DTS highmount manifold

Thx in advance

[MudRunnerTD]

9/16 would be closer to 14mm. 3/8 is 9mm. 4/8 is 12mm, 5/8 is 16mm so without checking a rule 9/16 is the go I would think.

In saying that I'd be far more inclined to work out the fitting your actually going to use, determine the thread you need and the tap you want and then buy the appropriate HSS drill bit and just drill it out. I know AB has done his sump, he might shed some light for you but I'd be drilling it. Definitely only want to do it once.

The fitting will be available from any machinery shop or Hose shop like Pertek etc.

Buy the fitting first and work backwards mate.

[flashman1207]

mmm I didn't wanna drill it as I am not removing the sump. Also, cos I'm not welding it there wouldn't be much metal for the fitting to 'purchase' if its just drilled (if you know wot I mean)...

Anyone got a DTS kit? Don't they come with a punch for the sump and a fitting? if someone has, can they check?

[MudRunnerTD]

AB is your man mate, he did his own fitting and had to do his sump.

[BLKWDW]

I drilled mine. It didn't come with a punch. If ur worried bout drilling throw some grease or vaso etc on the area to trap the shavings.

[nissannewby]

Considering how easy it is to remove a sump on one of these engines I would be doing it and drilling it, and welding or soldering the fitting in. A new sump gasket is maybe $20 for them. Every turbo kit I have fitted I always remove the sump.

[flashman1207]

Thanks guys, will see if AB spots the thread and has any input else might PM him. Definately don't wanna remove sump as I know plenty of people don't and its not really necessary....

[BigRAWesty]

Search for td42 aftermarket turbo.. Pretty sure it'll come up.

[flashman1207]

THis engineering stuff does my head in. According to the BPS and BSPT specs for a 3/8 fitting you need a drill size of 15.25mm for tapping. So maybe the 3/8 is the internal dimension or something.....

[happygu]

Flashman,

15mm will be fine, as it will usually drill a little oversize when drilling by hand anyway

Mic

[firm351]

15.25 mm for 3/8"bsp 14.75 mm for 3/8" bspt. If your worried about the drill swarf as said above fill the drill flutes with grease and you will have no dramas, don't forget the swarf from the tap also, grease in the flutes of the tap will work there aswell. Personally I would weld the fitting into the sump.

[AB]

Sorry mate only just saw this now and for the life of me I cannot find the receipt of what size it was.

I actually got Patrolapart to punch it for me as they had the punch ready to go and do them all the time and are only 15 minutes from my house.

I'm sure if you gave them a call and mentioned you are from here they will help you with the size.

As above, welding or removing the sump and drilling is a better option but I chose to run the gauntlet and it has been fine, 100%.

It was a five second job, they also used grease just in case but if you do not want to take the sump off I would be punching not drilling as the punch splays the metal inwards rather then fragments of metals that may come off using a drill. As always though there is a risk and do so at your own risk of course but it worked fine for me.

I simply put the barb on with the approximate length of hose I needed for the oil drain and capped that off, drove home and installed the turbo in my shed...Happy days!

[AB]

Yep as above mate 3/8 BSP....Just found my old thread below which mentions it.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?4973-Fitting-a-genuine-Nissan-turbo-to-a-N-A-TD42/page4&highlight=td42+td42t+turbo

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2011/08/63.jpg
(http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?4973-Fitting-a-genuine-Nissan-turbo-to-a-N-A-TD42/page4&highlight=td42+td42t+turbo)

[flashman1207]

Thanks AB, will let you all know how it goes. Might do my own write up about it (could be the longest one in history though at the rate I get stuff done)....

[slamnsam]

3/8 bspt is not 3/8 across, i usually drill a 14mm hole in alloy before tapping it to 3/8 bspt, cheers