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ninety3
4th January 2014, 01:58 PM
Hey all. Reading on here, people say that changing all the bearings and seals for the swivel hub/wheel bearing assembly is pretty easy, so I have given it a go. Got as far as getting the axle out and now I'm stuck. Can anyone suggest a way to remove the bearing races from the top and bottom of the hub? Ive read that you tap them out from the two cut outs either side of the metal plate at the bottom. I tried but just ended up munching the plate, and at $30 each from nissan, I'm not keen to munch any more of them...

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k124/ninety3/IMG_4605_zps7614b775.jpg

Also, how do I remove these bearings to fit the new ones?

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k124/ninety3/IMG_4607_zps960d242c.jpg

As you can see, the troll is well over due for this :)

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k124/ninety3/IMG_4608_zps1515ba74.jpg

Lastly, how much oil should the front diff take, and do I need to use different types of grease on the CV's or the bearings?

Cheers, Col.

NP99
4th January 2014, 02:51 PM
Your method for tapping the cones out is correct, what are you using? You need a bearing press to remove the bearings and cv/bearing grease is the same. Can't remember diff oil qty.

Dales300exc
4th January 2014, 03:17 PM
Seperate grease is recommended but I used wheel bearing in both so just left the plates out.

Bearing in mind (no pun intended) I repack often so any grease that may leave top swivel bearings and retained by the plates will be repacked.

growler2058
4th January 2014, 03:24 PM
The swivel bearings I cut off (carefully) with a 4" angle grinder. Cut the cage pulled the rollers out, then near cut all the way through the "inner" and smashed off with as cold chisel and lump hammer. Wear safety glasses that high tensile steel splinters like schrapnel. I got little blood spots on my face when I did it!

tb45owner
4th January 2014, 04:39 PM
Do you need to take them out? if you have new top and bottom bearings cant you put them back into existing races?
I ask this as I have my front axle on a GU pulled apart at present.

ninety3
4th January 2014, 04:47 PM
I spose you can, but its preferable to use new races with new bearing due to wear patterns

tb45owner
4th January 2014, 05:05 PM
Hey ninety3 I have the birfield joint (CV) out and noticed a fair amount of play when I held each side of it, held the long part firm and was able to wiggle the short bit back and forth. Is yours the same?

NP99
4th January 2014, 06:46 PM
Don't forget that copper washer on the shaft of the axle....put it back on the shaft wrong and the axle won't go all the way home, it will be a bees d1ck out....

tb45owner
4th January 2014, 07:09 PM
]Hi ninety3 to remove the top and bottom bearing, just went down a neighbours and...
pull of the rubber seal around the bottom which lets you see the bottom of the bearing. He had a tie rod tool (similar to pic) with thinner ends that was able to get under the lip and in the vice we got them both off fairly easy.
know anyone with such a puller?

tb45owner
4th January 2014, 08:46 PM
Thanks NP99 will bear that in mind. Any thoughts on the movement in the CV joint?

NP99
4th January 2014, 08:52 PM
Cv joint movement not too loose not too tight, one of those things you need to see, sorry mate. Give it a good clean out and inspect, go with your gut feeling.

One of these kits are handy to have around too...