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lhurley
23rd December 2013, 02:17 PM
Hey folks,

Story time, about 2 weeks ago my 2nd battery went flat and the battery isolator wasn't turning on, so I started cleaning everything making sure everything is tight. No change.
That battery has been on charge via a 240v charger and have since found out it dead.

But then, yesterday driving to my missus place (about 15-20 mins) my radio started playing up about 15 mins in and the car was surging and dying out. Made it to my missus place, checked the battery when I parked and it was around 11.5v. Car wouldn't crank off that battery, so we jumped it and it started instantly. But while moving the cars around so I could charge the battery, it stopped, about 2m short of where I wanted to stop mind you.

Since then, I have charged the battery for 12 hours, showed 13.5v. I also changed the terminals to new ones as the old ones where not tight enough. The car started up instantly again and I had the multi meter on it while it was running. It showed 14.5v at the battery when I first started the car, after letting it run for about 5 or so minutes the volts started to slowly drop, it stayed above 14.10v for a few minutes then it just kept dropping. Just before I turned it off it showed about 13v.

The battery light on the dash come on once for about 30 seconds a few days ago, and hasn't been on since. I usually drive for an hour plus every day and I have had a couple of 4b trips recently where it's been running the entire day.

This is doing my head in because I can't work out whether it's alternator, battery or something else.

Any help appreciated

Cheers
Lachlan

gaddy
23rd December 2013, 02:46 PM
I'm definitely no expert but take your reading from the alternator not the battery , it should give a accurate out put from the alternator

Steve

threedogs
23rd December 2013, 02:52 PM
I'd be looking at the alternator, check the voltage at the back of it

lhurley
23rd December 2013, 02:57 PM
That's guys. I'll check that soon. I just drove home, about 20 mins driving. And when I stopped I still had 12.49 on the battery with the car off. Had 12.3 on the battery with the car idling.

shaun100
23rd December 2013, 03:57 PM
sticky / dirty brushes in alternator???

lhurley
23rd December 2013, 04:22 PM
I just checked the volts on the alternator, with the car off it still showed 12.5v and then with it on, it was dancing around, went down as low as 4v then would max at about 12.5v.

Battery showed 12.6v before starting the car.

I'm no sparky but to me that sounds like the alternator is f'd?

NP99
23rd December 2013, 05:02 PM
Yeah mate, she's cactus. Remember that you need power driving along with the ecu. Just strip it down and check the brushes, start with the cheap end of a recon. Does it make a stuffed bearing sound? They are cheap to replace as well. I have small bearing pullers if you need them.

lhurley
23rd December 2013, 05:14 PM
Thanks bloke, I'm guessing a place like bursons will have the parts? Is it even worth bothering to try rebuild it as apposed to just getting a new 1 for $350?

threedogs
23rd December 2013, 05:33 PM
You may want to get a bigger amp alternator if funds are there up grade to 110 amp

lhurley
23rd December 2013, 05:46 PM
You may want to get a bigger amp alternator if funds are there up grade to 110 amp

Factory mine is 100a anyways.

Yendor
25th December 2013, 02:42 PM
Does the battery light in the dash come on when you turn the ignition on and then go out when the vehicle is started?

It's more then likely a problem with the regulator in the alternator (unless you play in mud holes). There not worth repairing, I would just replace it.

Just make sure the two smaller wires that go to the alternator haven't broken and you have power in both wires with the ignition on and the plug disconnected from the alternator.

lhurley
25th December 2013, 10:39 PM
The battery light normally comes on then turns off once the car is started. It's only come on once whilst the engine is on.

I have been through a few mud holes. I have to wait until the 6th of jan until patrolapart opens up again anyways.

I will check the other 2 wires shortly. Thanks for the input mate.

Yendor
25th December 2013, 11:02 PM
You could also try Ashdown Ingrams for a replacement alternator.

lhurley
27th December 2013, 07:00 PM
I got a new alternator on special at repco, same serial as the place yendor suggested I try.
Just want to know if this bolt is suitable for the little wire, I assume is a ground?

Yendor
27th December 2013, 07:53 PM
It should be OK where you have the earth lead connected, it looks like the screw goes straight into the alternator housing.

Or you find a bolt and fit it to the threaded hole to the right of the red protective cover.

lhurley
27th December 2013, 08:50 PM
It works, I got 14.4v on the alternator. I checked the plug prior to swapping units, there is power on both sides.

Yendor
27th December 2013, 09:09 PM
Good job mate.

lhurley
27th December 2013, 09:10 PM
Good job mate.

Thanks for the help mate, really appreciate it.

Morton
6th January 2014, 10:32 PM
Yendor, I relaced my alternator (repco/Bursons replacement) on my 3L GU & had a wire I couldn't hook to anything, I taped it off & have apparently had no issue, would this be a earth wire, will it affect the vehicle, it did this 3 yrs ago

Yendor
7th January 2014, 01:10 AM
Yendor, I relaced my alternator (repco/Bursons replacement) on my 3L GU & had a wire I couldn't hook to anything, I taped it off & have apparently had no issue, would this be a earth wire, will it affect the vehicle, it did this 3 yrs ago

The black wire is an earth wire. It's not part of the alternator circuit, the alternator will charge fine without it.

It's part of the vehicle's earth loop circuit. It connects to all the body earth locations throughout the vehicle.

It should be connected.

The top bracket that the alternator mounts to has a small free tapped thread. I would just find a bolt and connect it there.

Morton
7th January 2014, 07:28 PM
The black wire is an earth wire. It's not part of the alternator circuit, the alternator will charge fine without it.

It's part of the vehicle's earth loop circuit. It connects to all the body earth locations throughout the vehicle.

It should be connected.

The top bracket that the alternator mounts to has a small free tapped thread. I would just find a bolt and connect it there.

thanks very much Yendor, I'll sort it out now

MEGOMONSTER
8th January 2014, 12:33 AM
You could also try Ashdown Ingrams for a replacement alternator.

Mini hijack, I've been noticing that my second battery has been draining quicker then normal and was suggested to put some sort of booster on the Redarc isolater as they think its not fully charging the second battery.

Does this sound like it has any truth in it.
Cos it sounds like bullocks to me.

Yendor
8th January 2014, 12:47 AM
Mini hijack, I've been noticing that my second battery has been draining quicker then normal and was suggested to put some sort of booster on the Redarc isolater as they think its not fully charging the second battery.

Does this sound like it has any truth in it.
Cos it sounds like bullocks to me.

What type of RedArc isolator is it? SBI12?

MEGOMONSTER
8th January 2014, 12:59 AM
What type of RedArc isolator is it? SBI12?

38880
I'm not sure, does this help.
Probably not.

lhurley
8th January 2014, 10:59 AM
I'm not sure, does this help.
Probably not.

Is there some numbers on that sticker?? Just under where it says redarc

MEGOMONSTER
8th January 2014, 12:17 PM
What type of RedArc isolator is it? SBI12?

Definately a SBI12, took me a while to find paperwork.

Yendor
9th January 2014, 01:06 AM
Definately a SBI12, took me a while to find paperwork.

It's only an isolator it's not a charger. The SBI12 only isolates the 2 batteries once battery voltage drops below a set value.

If your second battery is not being charged adequately you may need to look at DC-DC chargers or periodically charge you second battery via a 240 volt battery charger.

How old is your second battery? it may pay to also get it tested.

MEGOMONSTER
9th January 2014, 01:10 AM
It's only an isolator it's not a charger. The SBI12 only isolates the 2 batteries once battery voltage drops below a set value.

If your second battery is not being charged adequately you may need to look at DC-DC chargers or periodically charge you second battery via a 240 volt battery charger.

How old is your second battery? it may pay to also get it tested.

The battery is a year old.
I do charge it via 240v when gauge alarms.
So how can I or what can I do to have this battery charging all the time like the primary battery.
ie: bigger alternator
Not sure what a DC/DC charger is.

NP99
9th January 2014, 01:19 AM
The battery is a year old.
I do charge it via 240v when gauge alarms.
So how can I or what can I do to have this battery charging all the time like the primary battery.
ie: bigger alternator
Not sure what a DC/DC charger is.


Check this out.....the dc to dc is good when you are travelling or remote.

http://www.ctekbatterychargers.com.au/ctek-d250s-dual.html

MEGOMONSTER
9th January 2014, 02:04 AM
Check this out.....the dc to dc is good when you are travelling or remote.

http://www.ctekbatterychargers.com.au/ctek-d250s-dual.html

Is this in conjunction to the Redarc isolator or in replacement of it.

MEGOMONSTER
9th January 2014, 02:08 AM
Check this out.....the dc to dc is good when you are travelling or remote.

http://www.ctekbatterychargers.com.au/ctek-d250s-dual.html

In reading about this , I suspect I have the variable alternator therefore not charging the battery to full 100%.
Which kinda makes sense now.

Does a battery still work as normal when its being charged by ctek as well as having power drawn from the battery (i.e.: fridge, roof lights) at the same time.

lhurley
9th January 2014, 04:02 PM
In reading about this , I suspect I have the variable alternator therefore not charging the battery to full 100%.
Which kinda makes sense now.

Does a battery still work as normal when its being charged by ctek as well as having power drawn from the battery (i.e.: fridge, roof lights) at the same time.

I wouldnt be to sure about your alternator being variable, i just looked in my gregorys manual, and it says that the regulated voltage is from 14.1 - 14.7 amps. I could be wrong, but i would guess its a normal alternator.

MEGOMONSTER
9th January 2014, 04:29 PM
I wouldnt be to sure about your alternator being variable, i just looked in my gregorys manual, and it says that the regulated voltage is from 14.1 - 14.7 amps. I could be wrong, but i would guess its a normal alternator.

I was just going off the statement on their website.
As I have an oct 2011 build.

This is the statement I read but your probably right being a normal alt.

"Ctek D250S Dual with Variable Charge Alternator.

If your vehicle is a four wheel drive and was manufactured from mid 2011 on there is a good chance it is installed with a variable charge alternator also called a "eco charge" or "smart alternator"."

lhurley
9th January 2014, 05:37 PM
I was just going off the statement on their website.
As I have an oct 2011 build.

This is the statement I read but your probably right being a normal alt.

"Ctek D250S Dual with Variable Charge Alternator.

If your vehicle is a four wheel drive and was manufactured from mid 2011 on there is a good chance it is installed with a variable charge alternator also called a "eco charge" or "smart alternator"."

Yea i read that, i guess they are generalizing? I could be wrong thought.

MEGOMONSTER
9th January 2014, 05:41 PM
Yea i read that, i guess they are generalizing? I could be wrong thought.

Either way the theory sounds correct that my battery is not charging fully therefore some times I get voltage alarms with time past.
Something I need to think of doing.

lhurley
9th January 2014, 07:09 PM
Either way the theory sounds correct that my battery is not charging fully therefore some times I get voltage alarms with time past.
Something I need to think of doing.

Fair enough. I'm sure someone smarter then I will come along and clear this up

MEGOMONSTER
9th January 2014, 07:13 PM
Fair enough. I'm sure someone smarter then I will come along and clear this up

I wasn't trying to say you were wrong but the fact (I think) my battery is not getting to 100% charge unless I put it on charge at home with a battery charge.

lhurley
9th January 2014, 07:28 PM
I wasn't trying to say you were wrong but the fact (I think) my battery is not getting to 100% charge unless I put it on charge at home with a battery charge.

I was really only speculating anyways. Might pay to get the battery checked by a battery place. Most do it for free.

MEGOMONSTER
9th January 2014, 07:33 PM
I was really only speculating anyways. Might pay to get the battery checked by a battery place. Most do it for free.

Good idea, as the place that told me the battery is ok, is the place that fitted it.

Yendor
1st February 2014, 11:31 PM
In reading about this , I suspect I have the variable alternator therefore not charging the battery to full 100%.
Which kinda makes sense now.


I can't find anything in the workshop manual that confirms the GU8 has a type of variable alternator fitted.

I did have someone who is in the trade tell me they do.

So I had do go out and buy a GU8 so I could check for myself :)

On mine there is a reduction in voltage once the vehicle has been running for awhile.

Just after start up the voltage is 14.4 volts then after the vehicle has been running for awhile it will drop down to 13.8 volts (no extra electrical load) and stay there.

Have you noticed this with your vehicle?



Does a battery still work as normal when its being charged by ctek as well as having power drawn from the battery (i.e.: fridge, roof lights) at the same time.
Yes

nissannewby
1st February 2014, 11:33 PM
I can't find anything in the workshop manual that confirms the GU8 has a type of variable alternator fitted.

I did have someone who is in the trade tell me they do.

So I had do go out and buy a GU8 so I could check for myself :)

On mine there is a reduction in voltage once the vehicle has been running for awhile.

Just after start up the voltage is 14.4 volts then after the vehicle has been running for awhile it will drop down to 13.8 volts (no extra electrical load) and stay there.

Have you noticed this with your vehicle?



Yes

Underpants on the outside :D