twin e locker install

[gqmoder]

beginning elocker install.
here goes.
my engine i out atm

37920

so it going to make access easy

37921

37922
locker unpacked
37923
with new bearings
37924
all unpacked

[gqmoder]

i don't have the carrier bearing for the back yet still waiting on them so starting with the front.
i'll try and do it step by step and in newby terms so anyone can follow and do it them self.
however i do have a full work shop and rebuild motors and do conversions so you may need some special tool, eg. press, bearing puller etc.

[MEGOMONSTER]

i don't have the carrier bearing for the back yet still waiting on them so starting with the front.
i'll try and do it step by step and in newby terms so anyone can follow and do it them self.
however i do have a full work shop and rebuild motors and do conversions so you may need some special tool, eg. press, bearing puller etc.

I'm sure there'll be a few watching this with interest.

[gqmoder]

ok just yanked the first axle so ill stop for a beer and upload some pics

[gqmoder]

ok remove the wheel and mark your hubs with a centre punch so you can put them back with the orientation and also using your centre punch put a little L and R on the left and right free wheeling hub respectively
37938
remove the free wheeling hub bolts with an allen key
37933
remove the brake caliper
37934
37943
and wire it up safe and sound DO NOT JUST LET IT HANG BY THE FLEXIBLE you will damage the line and it will split when your on the high way and you will die!!!!!
37939
look what i found .... thats what happens when you travel around australia with 2 ton on the tow ball and do a few runs throw the desert, i'm up for new brake discs
37935
there is a circlip in here you need to remove
37937
then you can remove the drive clutch
37928
you need to undo this nut with a 53 mm socket or a small chisel or screw driver and lightly tap it around they are not especially tight but there is a retaining washer behind it. so your a lead light to look for the little tabs and bend them back first. GU patrol ones are slightly different.
37942
this is the little retaining washer it can be a bit tricking to remove but you have gotten this far you will work it out ... use a little magnet on a stick thingy or do what i do as you can see in the pic.
37932
but wait there more .... YOU GET A SECOND BEARING RETAINING NUT FREE OF CHARGE!!!!!!!
37936
slip the disk of and your left just with the stub axle like so
37940
these bolts hold in place the brake shield and the stub axle
37941
very lightly just tap tap tap here until the stub axle moves away from the cv housing (cv = constant verlocity) DO NOT TAP ON THE MACHINED PARTS OF THE STUB AXLE YOU WILL WRECK IT.
37929
remove the stub axle and your just left with the axle
37930
you only need to pop it out a little and leave it sitting in the housing

[gqmoder]

move to the other side of your truck and ....
process repeat!

[gqmoder]

ok second axle is out i just relised that i neglected to mention one of the first things you need to do is empty the diff oil use a breaker bar with an half inch drive to undo to bung in the bottom of the diff

[gqmoder]

inspect everything as u go for wear and replace bearing if they have not been done. i did mine when i put my first locker in the front that i am now removing so i an not doing mine but i will still be putting everything thro the parts cleaner and re-packing it with grease.
if you don't have a parts sleaner use those little cans of cheap stuff from supershit and a couple bags of rags and a tooth brush.

[gqmoder]

i am also planning on cleaning up my diff housings and rust using rust converter and coating them in chassis paint. i'm approaching the end of a worked 6.2 ltr chevy conversion for this thing so i'm going all the way because it's going to be coping some serious torque.i call it the chevtrol ... its going to be unstoppable!!!!

[MudRunnerTD]

Looks good mate. Can you tell us how much and where you got them from? Were they the same price front and back?

[89gqpatrol4x4]

Loving this already, it's blokes in the know like you that help us with less mechanical knowledge learn more and give us more confidence to have a go our selves. Just a side note and this applies to everything in life, "over confidence can bring you down or have bad outcomes" Be realistic with what you can do. Keep up the great thread mate!

[gqmoder]

Looks good mate. Can you tell us how much and where you got them from? Were they the same price front and back?

picked up front and rear e lockers for my gq ls2 conversion today $3000 from opposite lock in canberra, $3460 with carrier bearings and frieght .... $frieght was $80 think i got ripped on bearings but dunno will look up part numbers online at some stage.
anyway ill document the install and put it online.

pasted from another thread

[gqmoder]

just undid all the bolts for the diff centre and attempted to remove it but can't get it out.
the tie rod is in the way .... looks like i need to drop the tie rod to remove the centre.

[gqmoder]

backlash seem to b about 20 deg

[gqmoder]

anyone have any idea what the factory recommended backlash is front gq???

[MudRunnerTD]

anyone have any idea what the factory recommended backlash is front gq???

Have you downloaded the factory manual available to you from this site mate? 1200pages fully catalogue a for you mate. I carry it on the iPhone, iPad and the computer ;) winner. If you have not then you have enough posts (25 minimum) go help yourself mate.

If you can't find the backlash I will have a look through for you bud.

[gqmoder]

it actually bought me to a holt last night because i think 20 is abit high just going down to get some gear blue now and ill set the backlash so the wear pattern is right in the middle of the crown wheel (ring gear)

[gqmoder]

just went got some going to do a wear pattern test.
where do i d/l these manuals from? wouldnt mind checking to see what the OEM specs are

[MudRunnerTD]

just went got some going to do a wear pattern test.
where do i d/l these manuals from? wouldnt mind checking to see what the OEM specs are

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au -Nissan-Patrol-Manuals-Nissan-Patrol-Software (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/forumdisplay.php?54-Nissan-Patrol-Manuals-Nissan-Patrol-Software)

Or here is a good thread with the links catalogued

All-Nissan-Patrol-Manuals-listed-and-linked-in-one-thread (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?8215-All-Nissan-Patrol-Manuals-listed-and-linked-in-one-thread)

[gqmoder]

i found the page but i could not find the button to click

[gqmoder]

thanks for this mud runner this is awesome. THANK YOU VERY MUCH TO NISSANPATROL.COM.AU for providing these free of charge its awesome

i can't seem to find the oem backlash specs in there tho.

[MudRunnerTD]

thanks for this mud runner this is awesome. THANK YOU VERY MUCH TO NISSANPATROL.COM.AU for providing these free of charge its awesome

i can't seem to find the oem backlash specs in there tho.


No worries mate, all we ask is that members make 25 posts and they are free to download. Not hard really hey! You'd be amazed ow many people come and give us a hard time or try and spam the forum to get to 25 posts to sponge them.

Mate I have had to edit you post, we are a family friendly forum bud and don't have swearing. Also Google smash us in the ratings if there is a heap of swearing so we try to keep it out of here.

Look forward to seeing more of this thread bud.

Did you check in the maintenance section of that manual?

[gqmoder]

if anyone wants a lockrite auto locker (not selectable) for a gq front $200 give me a call 0404158489 works well

[gqmoder]

no dramas mud runner ill keep the explanitives to a min!!!
ill check the maintenance sections now

[gqmoder]

anyone have an idea where it might b?

[gqmoder]

i just put the elocker into the press to press on the carrier bearing and this fool (nice word for him) has given me the wrong bearings.

[Drewboyaus]

i just put the elocker into the press to press on the carrier bearing and this fool (nice word for him) has given me the wrong bearings.

That's annoying! Great thread though mate.

[sooty_10]

Yeah the internal diameter of the carrier bearings are different between the e-locker and patrol (GU for me) centre. Need to get a slightly larger internal diameter bearing, I just went to the local bearing shop when I did mine.

[MudRunnerTD]

Yeah the internal diameter of the carrier bearings are different between the e-locker and patrol (GU for me) centre. Need to get a slightly larger internal diameter bearing, I just went to the local bearing shop when I did mine.

Go figure! So old mate probably provided the correct bearing for the Nissan but not the elocker.....

Cheers mate

[megatexture]

i just put the elocker into the press to press on the carrier bearing and this fool (nice word for him) has given me the wrong bearings.

Not good especially when you said you think got ripped on the bearings

[gqmoder]

yeah pretty damn annoying hey his an idiot if what I ring him this morning he wants more money for the correct bearings ill tell him to stick it

[gqmoder]

sorry left thr thread unfinished folks i bben busy working on my ls motor. got it all harnessed up and looking sexy just gott mount and plug in computer.

anyway ... researched and ended up ordering my own bearing and getting money back from bloke.
got rear diff out and ready for e locker. its all spead out on a tarp at the moment getting sand blasted and primed with rust converter/preventer and sprayed with chassis black paint.

don't know if i mentioned but i have completly removed my diffs after taking centre out in order to paint them. while it all apart im also going to strip, clean up and replace all the rubber on the brake calipers and paint everything with heat resistant red paint, i'm replacing axle bearings and seals and banging a set of drilled and slotted brake disc rotors on, as a car ... or truck should always stop as well as it goes and this truck is going to go pretty freaking well!!!!!!!

[threedogs]

Did you think about laminating the front diff when it was out???

[gqmoder]

both diffs are still out
no not going to laminate them

[gqmoder]

what a nightmare separating the brake discs from the bearing hub.
i eventually separated one by leaving cranked right down hard under pressure in the press, soaked in wd 40 but i buggered i buggered it with a hammer earlier i think.
i put a couple chips on the edge stupidly hitting it with a hammer. has anyone got one lying around??? even if it still has the rotor on it.
i'm going to cank the other one down in the press and soak if in wd40 and leav it. no hitting with a hammer.

[gqmoder]

well ill be damded......
i put the second one in the press, sprayed abit of wd40, cranked it down and it went stright thro!!!!!!

[gqmoder]

ok rear is even easier then front, have a photographed it all for you tho...

rip the wheel off. If like me you are doing front and back at the same time folks it's very important that you have your truck on level ground and sitting on a good steady set of axle stands and that you put the four wheels you have removed from your truck underneath it in line with the chassis so if something does go wrong and the truck falls it lands on the tyre and you still have room to get your lims out of the way. please be carefull working on your truck like this they are a heavy vehicle.

and unless you have a death wish DO NOT WORK ON YOUR TRUCK WHILE IT IS ON ANY KIND OF JACK!!!!! use chassis stands!!!!!!

right.....
once the wheel is off
38533
undo the bolt on the bottom of the caliper
38539
then rotate it up like so
38534
then it simple slides back off this slide. then undo the rest of the caliper where you can see the sanner.


then your brake disc will come straight off. gently tap it with a hammer if need be, on the hub section not the machined section where the brake pads operate against.
my truck has been around australia and vic high country and had a hard, hard life of my constant torture and still mine come off the rear pretty easy.

38532
38531
undo the bearing housing nust behind here. these are nylon nuts so they seem tight all the way out.
38540
here is alittle trick for you to extend your spanner and get some more torgue on those hard to crack nuts. dont say i never teach ya nothing usefull !!!!:049:
38529
bobs your uncle!!



now ill just include this for you ... i was not going to. PLEASE READ THE INSTRUCTIONS AND FOLLOW THEM DO NOT JUST GO OF WHAT I HAVE GIVEN YOU HERE AND GET INTO THE TECHNICAL STUFF. ill just give you a couple of bits here they dont show in the instruction but i'm reluctant to give you enough that someone might think they can just get stuck into it without out reading the literature.
once you have read the instructions if you have any questions or need to see pics of how to do it or something i would be more then happy to help where ever i possible can.

38538
locker in the press coping carrier bearings (some call them side bearings)
38537
don't let the misses catch you with "your oily shed stuff" in her laundry sink or you will have to listen to her sh**!!
once you have filled the tub up with hot water add some boiling water from the kettle.
38536
i had to bend this tab straight because is was fouling on the diff housing and preventing me from setting the backlash properly. keep meaning to ring harrop and let them know never get around to it.
38541
the other tab goes into this bracket thingy. its ver important your remmeber this so the electro magnet does not just spin freely and F the locker. it does not mention it in the instructions and i only picked up on it because the boys at harrop mentioned it to me when i rang to discuss carrier bearings with them. it always pays to ring up harrop here in aus before you start and have a quick chat to joel or ben, they are a top pair of blokes.
38535
if you put a couple of bits of grease on the carrier bearing like this it will help you to hold the bearing race in place while you place the whole thing in the housing.
38530
this is how you set the backlash and bearing preload ... BUT READ THE INSTRUCTIONS!!!!!!

[gqmoder]

just show off my sexy wiring harness
took a million wires, pluged them all in and connected everything up, labeled, all the wires, taped and harnessed it all up into this sexy wiring harness you see here.

alot of work!!!
all for a good cause.

[gqmoder]

anyone manage to find the recommended backlash and preload for these things.
if anyone finds it ill do it and post a full video how to
currently have backlash set to about 13 thou which is got by doin wear patern tests
preload i have at about 30 which feels tight

[gqmoder]

found it never mind

[gqmoder]

ok folks this weekends lessons will be on setting pinion bearing preload, carrier bearing preload, more on backlash, packing and installing wheel bearing and rebuilding and reconditioning brake calipers for maximun life.

[gqmoder]

i have done a bit on the truck fuel system this week.
I'm running two fuel tanks.... standard patrol tank up the back and an aux tank running under the drivers side of the vehicle. i made up plates with the plasma cutter and welded them into the top of my tanks so they take the standard commodore self regulating fuel system which can be sourced anywhere in australia should one fail. each tank has it own fuel pump and fuel line up to the engine bay giving me two completly independant fuel systems and i have linked the pumps with a solenoid i can open and close to pump between tanks should i need to.
i ripped out the patrol fuel feed and return lines, drilled out the little nylon holders they sit in and replaced it all with 10mm metal fuel line.
because of what i do in this truck i have tried to do everything with functionality and durability in mind. i mean this trucks maidan voyage with the new motor will probably be the powerline tracks in the brindies or maybe monkey gums fire trail or even a quick trip down to the vic high country, this thing gets punished!!!!
39020

[gqmoder]

thought you might get a laugh out of this .......
39021
before i get stuck into anything today i think i might need abit of a bench clean up hey haha
to many jobs on the go at once.
ive been working on my ss this week too so i have ten jobs on the go between my seven cars!!!!!! haha

[gqmoder]

if you are clinically insane like me you may decide to clean and grease up your swivel hubs while they are out. particularly if your truck has been around aus' or is getting on in yrs.
i'm cleaning my diff right out because i sand blasted, rust protected and painted it so i want to make sure there is no sand inside.
39023
undo the swivel hub seal retaining bolts and move the seal back out of the way so they don't get damaged
39024
39025
then undo the swivel hub bearing cap bolt and pop it all out as one

[BigRAWesty]

Good to see another doco coming along..
I have also replied to the pm..

Wish I had your W/S. That bench is clean.. Lol

[gqmoder]

39047
take the seal of on a diagonal like this and note what order they are in and write it down so u dont forget.
39049
everythings goes thro the parts washer
39044
once your have cleaned out any bearings your are not replacing blow them out like so. it will blow the rest of the rubbish and solvent out.
now just a note: always dry all the solvent off all the components before you reasemble and grease them or the solvent will start to break down the seal and the grease.
that goes for whether your using a parts washer like me (i use 40 litres of repco brand solvent based parts cleaner in my parts cleaner) or if your using those cheap cans of degreaser from supersh*& or an alkaline based parts clearner.
blow everything out with compressed air while wearing eye protection and then dry it all really well.
39045
your might like to get yourself some of these they are great for cleaning and preparing parts
39046
grease i'm using its good stuff
3904839050
i cleaned out the diff by spraying degreaser and threading a rag through the short end like so and taping a rag to a piece of rope for the other end.

[gqmoder]

i nearly have everything back together then ill get started on the calipers. i have already sand blasted them, rust protected and primed them and painted them in high temp rated paint ..... red this time cause red looks tough!!!( best way i can say it with out swearing haha .... use your imagination for how i would really describe them).
tomorrow when i get home from the gym i will be completly disasembling them, cleaning them and giving the pistons alittle tlc, then reassembling them with all new rubbers.

[sooty_10]

Just a note on bending the little tab on the locker centre, be very careful as they are only held on by little tack welds and do crack the welds easy. I was also required to bend them a little to fit in properly and accidentally cracked one of the welds on one side of my locker centre. I then had to be very careful with a mig and just lay a tiny tack on it.

[gqmoder]

Just a note on bending the little tab on the locker centre, be very careful as they are only held on by little tack welds and do crack the welds easy. I was also required to bend them a little to fit in properly and accidentally cracked one of the welds on one side of my locker centre. I then had to be very careful with a mig and just lay a tiny tack on it.

that's really good to know i was not the only one that had this issue, did you let one of the guys know at harrop know?

[gqmoder]

put the swivel hubs back together last night just running over all the bolts with the torque wrench then ill get stuck into the calipers

[gqmoder]

ok just got the diff back in took some time i made the mistake of putting the springs back in then jacking up the diff and trying to put the radius arm to chassis bushes in. if you have a lift kit you need to jack the diff all thee way to the bump stops practically without the spring in, then put the radius arm to chassis bushes in and get the nuts started then drop the diff back down and chuck the wrings in then jack it back up. i just learnt that the hard way. now i have these works manuals from i prob should read them but hey where is the fun in that haha

[gqmoder]

i need aftermarket radius arms at some point. im still using the oem (original equipment manufacture) ones with my lift.

[gqmoder]

put a rag in the caliper so the piston does not fly out and caefull blow the piston oout with alittle compressed air
take seal out and clean everything up. use abit of wet and dry sand papper on the piston.
just gently only take off the rubbish no metal, this piston is perfectly machined to fit the caliper cylinder.use p320
reasemble using the seals,boots and rubbers in your caliper kits

btw always remember that these things save your life everytime you put your foot on the brake pedal so take you time, don't cut corner and do things properly. don't just go off what i have given you here, get a works manual and follow it.

[gqmoder]

i wish there was more hours in a day. still need to press on my new disc rotors, grease everything up and put it all back together , clean out rear diff and get in back in, gease rear diff bearing and get it all back to gether, set preload, backlash , get centres back in, get motor in cause its all wired up and almost ready to fire for the first time!!!!!

[gqmoder]

according to the workshop manual the backlash should be between .15 and.20 that seems like an absolute bucket load to much to me. anyone one here a diff specialist?

[gqmoder]

ended up setting to 15 - 16 like it on the tight side

[gqmoder]

haha my drive flange after i took to it with the plasma cutter because i couldn't get the bugger undone. i tried the rattle gun on full power, i heated it, i froze it, i welded a long piece of metal to the pinion drive flange then put a piece of 2 metre long exhaust pipe over my breaker bar and IT BROKE MY BLOODY BREAKER BAR !!!!!!!!!!!!

so pulled out the plasma cutter and cut it off haha that fixed it.
it was so think that while the plasma cutter was trying to pierce all the way throw the molten plasma was flowing down the side of the flange and dripping onto the floor and turning back to metal haha. needless to say i found this to be a bucket load of fun. i love burning steel hahahahahahahahahaha

[BigRAWesty]

haha my drive flange after i took to it with the plasma cutter because i couldn't get the bugger undone. i tried the rattle gun on full power, i heated it, i froze it, i welded a long piece of metal to the pinion drive flange then put a piece of 2 metre long exhaust pipe over my breaker bar and IT BROKE MY BLOODY BREAKER BAR !!!!!!!!!!!!

so pulled out the plasma cutter and cut it off haha that fixed it.
it was so think that while the plasma cutter was trying to pierce all the way throw the molten plasma was flowing down the side of the flange and dripping onto the floor and turning back to metal haha. needless to say i found this to be a bucket load of fun. i love burning steel hahahahahahahahahaha

Thus why I'm a boilermaker. Love the plasma to.

Did you take many shots of setting back lash?? I plan to remove my rear diff soon for a service and was thinking of resetting it.. Half a million Km's there has to be some wear..

[gqmoder]

yeah took photos how to set backlash ill put them up for yas

[gqmoder]

i just remembered about your diff locker dude i was supposed to go get a price from the post office to send it to you sorry man it slipped my mind ill get down there this arvo or tomorrow

[gqmoder]

39481
i made this tool up to set the back lash
39483
set you dial indicator up like so (i acually did this on the coast and drive side but alot of ppl just to it on the drive side)
39482
you adjust the back lash by scewing the carrier bearing adjuster side to side to move the crown wheel (or ring gear) closer to or further away from the pinion gear
ill take a pic of the pinion gear in a sec and put it up so folks can see what it is.
dont forget that once you have set the back lash you also need to load the carrier bearing up (called preload .... your tighten the carrier bearing adjusters so there is load on the carrier bearing and they are tight up in their races)

[gqmoder]

pinion gear

[gqmoder]

almost got the front all put back together. have to stop soon i gotta goto the gym in a couple hours and i still have to plug laptop into my ss before i go out. i was driving down belconnen road the other day (in canberra) and the bloody thing started running real ruff then stalled right in the damn left hand lane i had to get out and push it of the road like a loser.
people were behind me and everything and im pushing my ss to the side of the road damn thing (nice word)
i think i might of got a bad dose of fuel from the woolies servo.

dont ever want that happening to me again was damn embarrassing.
anyway i have to run it up on efi live (program that talks to the pcm (onboard computer)) and pull the error codes and see what happened

[gqmoder]

looks like i'm up for a crank angle sensor

[gqmoder]

looking sexy

wanna get this back together tonight.
got a job starting tomorrow and wanna get motor in this weekend.

got friends wanna come over not this weekend but next to see this motor start for the first time.

of to gym then back into it

[twase]

Good work, btw I consider a clean bench if I can see enough of the bench top for the job at hand. Any more is a waste of working time. You should have a crank sensor from the stuffed motor shouldn't you? This should get me subscribed to this thread.

[gqmoder]

yeah i have a crank sensr from that dodgey motor i bought but dont really wanna put anything from that in my ss

[gqmoder]

hi all work got busy and truck come to a hold just putting rear disc and wheels on now then finishing plumbing fuel system and putting motor back in tomorrow to get ready to start for the first time ... really getting close now. this project has taken me years now i started off buying a ls1 motor from from guy in sydney and get ripped off with a dodgey motor but thats ok cause now i have a 6.2!!!! nno 5.7. anyway get these discs on fuel systems and evap systems hooked up

[gqmoder]

sorry i got abit less descriptive towards the nd of the locker project time became a huge factor. if you do it and are unsure on anything always just message and ill help.



make sure you clean ya disc with emery papper and brake cleaner before you fit them

[Stropp]

good write up mate thanks.

[gqmoder]

how do ya like them apples

[gqmoder]

punched the harness through the firewall yesterday and made up a bracket to go up under the dash and hold pcm, fuse block and relay block today
10 billion wires to wire up

[gqmoder]

the never ending story

[gqmoder]

if any ops come in and read this feel free to change the heading to twon eloacker and ls3 install if appropriate

[gqmoder]

well i have had a bad week. hurt my calf at the gym on monday, then went to work on tuesday and ignored the pain all day and then went to sparring on tuesday arvo and did 9 rounds, come wensday my calves where competly locked up and i couldn't get out of bed. spent three days sitting around on the couch going crazy.

got nothing done on the truck and im behind in my work now. so gotta get abit done this weekend cause next couple of weeks are going to be out of this world busy.

got some wiring down today.
folks unless your working on a budget don't wire your lsx based engine from scratch yourself its just to time consuming.
i have made most of the connections to the pcm now.
have to wire power, ground, tacho, speedo etc then i will be able to fire up the pcm and connect laptop to disable anti theft systems and do some programing and tuning ready for first fire up.
fuel is all plumbed up the the fuel rail and ready for pressure but evap system is not hooked up yet

[gqmoder]

exhaust is all tacked together and sitting up under on its mounts but still need to do the final welding. so much to do

[gqmoder]

progress :) sensor connections made
now to wire speedo, tacho, fuel pumps, fuel solenion, thermo fans etc

[klappers]

Ohhh nice :)