NATS Immobilizer light staying on??

[MudRunnerTD]

Hey guys (Rodney ;) ) I noticed last week that the little red light on the top of the dash in the GUIV is staying on sometimes when I'm driving? Not all the time? If it stays on it seems to stay on for the journey though until I turn the car off.

Should I be concerned? Is there some hidden message? No idea!

Thanks in advance.

[Yendor]

Hey mate.

You have a problem with NATS, more then likely the control module on the back of the injector pump.

Do you always use the same key?

[MudRunnerTD]

Edit that!! Damn it to hell! It has just left me on the side of the bloody road!!!

Just done a 14 hour day and having dinner at 12:30am at Maccas and she won't start.

Anyone still online that can tell me how to override the imobilser?

[Yendor]

Trying turning the ignition on and off a few times and see if the security light stops flashing.

Also try giving the electrical box on the injector pump, the one that has the 3 wires going to it some light hits.

[Yendor]

The only way to bypass NATS is to remove the module on the injector pump and connect ignition directly to the solenoid.

[MudRunnerTD]

Hey mate.

You have a problem with NATS, more then likely the control module on the back of the injector pump.

Do you always use the same key?


Hi Rodney,

Yeah mate I only have 1 key. It is not a program key though. Mine has a separate fob.

Just called the RACV and they are an hour away maybe

[MudRunnerTD]

The only way to bypass NATS is to remove the module on the injector pump and connect ignition directly to the solenoid.


Is that hard to do Rodney? I have very limited tools with me mate

[Yendor]

If the engine is hot also try pouring cold water over the control module on the injector pump.

[TPC]

Not good news mate, it happened to me and both RAA and Nissan dealer could not get around it.
I had to get it towed and took two days for part to arrive to fix it.
The problem with mine was the ring around the key (not sure of its name) that the transponder in the key talks to was faulty.
What year is your GU?

EDIT, sorry did not see Rodney had answered.

[MudRunnerTD]

The car is self locking too.

I will have a squids mate

[Yendor]

Is that hard to do Rodney? I have very limited tools with me mate

Very hard, it has anti-tamper screws fitted that are very hard to get at with the pump still in the vehicle.

Newby bypassed one recently, he ended up smashing part of it off.

[MudRunnerTD]

Very hard, it has anti-tamper screws fitted that are very hard to get at with the pump still in the vehicle.

Newby bypassed one recently, he ended up smashing part of it off.

Damn really!!!

Is this the item?

37063


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[Yendor]

Hi Rodney,

Yeah mate I only have 1 key. It is not a program key though. Mine has a separate fob.

Just called the RACV and they are an hour away maybe

The fob has nothing to do with NATS.

In the black plastic part of the key is a chip. The NATS needs to receive the correct signal from this chip before the vehicle will start.

I don't think this will be your problem because you only have one key.

[Yendor]

That doesn't look like it, that looks more like TPS.

I will see if I can find you a photo.

From memory it has a blue electrical connector.

[MudRunnerTD]

Got it going thank Rodney. The RACV arrived and I used his jack to stand on so I could see! Thanks for the Call at 1am Rodney! Your a champion mate.

Once I traced it down and could see what you were talking about I gave it a couple of taps and wiggles of the wires and she started first kick. Bloody thing!

So that little red light is still on mate. I will get it home tonight.

Your advice on what to do tomorrow with it would be great mate. Can't imagine giving it to Nissan to remove the pump to get to that thing mate!!! Damn!

Thanks for your help mate. Not sure I can trust the GUIV tomorrow.


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[Yendor]

The car is self locking too.

I will have a squids mate

Sorry I missed this post.

Does it also have an aftermarket immobilizer fitted?

[MudRunnerTD]

Sorry I missed this post.

Does it also have an aftermarket immobilizer fitted?

No mate. Not sure it used to do that. I was sitting in the car and all of a sudden it locked itself. Is that normal? I can't say I have noticed that before?


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[Yendor]

Got it going thank Rodney. The RACV arrived and I used his jack to stand on so I could see! Thanks for the Call at 1am Rodney! Your a champion mate.

Once I traced it down and could see what you were talking about I gave it a couple of taps and wiggles of the wires and she started first kick. Bloody thing!

So that little red light is still on mate. I will get it home tonight.

Your advice on what to do tomorrow with it would be great mate. Can't imagine giving it to Nissan to remove the pump to get to that thing mate!!! Damn!

Thanks for your help mate. Not sure I can trust the GUIV tomorrow.


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No worries mate. Just don't turn it off until you get home.

[Yendor]

No mate. Not sure it used to do that. I was sitting in the car and all of a sudden it locked itself. Is that normal? I can't say I have noticed that before?


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It's normal if you used the remote to unlock the doors and didn't open a door within a set time period it will re-lock the doors.

[MudRunnerTD]

@Yendor,

Mate thanks for your help last night mate, really appreciate the phone call at 1am. Your a legend.

So the car is parked in the driveway now. What is my course of action mate? I'm lost.

I don't think I can trust the car at the moment. Do I need to take it to Nissan for diagnostic? Can they check the key as per TPC's post on page 1?

What should I do mate?

Cheers Darren

[MudRunnerTD]

@Nissannewby

Mat, Yendor told me last night that you have smashed one of these things off mate. Any pics? How did you do that?

Your help would be appreciated mate.

[nissannewby]

@Nissannewby

Mat, Yendor told me last night that you have smashed one of these things off mate. Any pics? How did you do that?

Your help would be appreciated mate.

I only have this pic of what I did to it :). Try pm Paul he may have some pics.

[MudRunnerTD]

I only have this pic of what I did to it :). Try pm Paul he may have some pics.

Your an Animal! ;)

Thanks for the call mate. Appreciate it. You have given me a good start.

I also got these pics from Paul (RLI) thanks Paul, you have made a number of calls to me today.

37077
37078
37079

Thanks for all you help guys


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[Sir Roofy]

Nasty and brutal ok what happens now ?

[Winnie]

I only have this pic of what I did to it :). Try pm Paul he may have some pics.

There's your problem right there, the doo hickey is broked!

[MudRunnerTD]

Couple more pics from RLI that I need to see on a bigger screen

37110

37111


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[MudRunnerTD]

Well stripped off the intercooler. Moved a heap of the loom out of the way.

Had a good look at the GQ pump which is different dam it!

Heading out now with a big flat head screw driver and a steal mallet to give it some loving! Farrrkkk!! Nervous as hell! Holding my breathe!! Wish me luck!

[MudRunnerTD]

This bit here is the problem apparently!!!

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37136

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[Yendor]

So....does it start now?

[MudRunnerTD]

So....does it start now?


Lol! Maybe never again!!


Having some dinner and will strip the last little piece off that is hiding the wired going into the pump.

Damn Rodney!! Brutal!! I'll let you know mate! Bloody tight down there! I'll let you know if I get into trouble bud.

[Yendor]

You know, if you owned a ZD30 you wouldn't of had to do this :tease:

I think after this you might need to go float in that salt water tank LOL

[MudRunnerTD]

So Mat gave me a specific instruction that he repeated a number of times "when you remove the rear fuel line banjo, Don't loose the seal washer" easy enough really! Bhaaaaaaaa Farrrrkkk! Lost the bloody washer!

Got another today. I'll put it back together tonight. Just walked in for a big day.

[Yendor]

Bloody Matt he's so flippant.....LOL

[MudRunnerTD]

You bloody Rippa!

Well this was fairly stressful for me, taking to my GUIV with a 10mm wood chisel and a 8lb mash hammer was a very very big deal for me. Scary stuff!

I stripped off the intercooler to make room and just could to bring myself to go the hack. Damn it! Got to be done.

Ill tell you without the highest level of respect for Rodney and Mat I could not have done it. But head long and full of faith I went.

What a Bitch of a Job!! Got it done. Worked a treat!

Fired first kick!

You guys rock! Big thanks to Yendor and Newby! You guys rock.

NP.com.au score 1

[growler2058]

Excellent outcome good job fellas

[Keggy]

Just had the same problem the Nissan wouldn't start. Thanks for the info is there any other problems that might leave u on the side of the track. Heading to the cape next year

[MudRunnerTD]

Just had the same problem the Nissan wouldn't start. Thanks for the info is there any other problems that might leave u on the side of the track. Heading to the cape next year

G'day Keggy,

Glad my thread was of some help mate. There.is plenty to learn here. Start with an introduction thread in the intro section mate, tell the members where you are, what you drive and you will be warmly welcomed and let the conversations begin.

Just like walking into any room, say g'day mate ;)

[geckster]

good thread Mudrunner.

so is there much to damage behind that black plastic box if i get too carried away?

[MudRunnerTD]

good thread Mudrunner.

so is there much to damage behind that black plastic box if i get too carried away?

No not at all mate, unplug the Loom to the immobiliser and you will use that wire. Once you get the hole thing off it will expose the other end of the loom, just put a spade plug on it and plug it back in.

There are 3 wires from the loom at the plug, turn the ignition on and only 1 wire will have 12v, that's your wire mate, the other 2 can be blanked off.

I recommend you have handy a little mirror and a torch to check what's going on as its bloody tight in there, but you are basically cutting this thing off balls and all mate.

It is bolted to the pump with security bolts that break off when fitted and simply can't be undone, I did not even try.

The Backing plate was the hardest piece to remove though, I think mainly because I could to tell if it was a backing plate or the bloody pump mate! Once I got under it though it was obviously a plate.

I MIT have some other pics, I certainly have the pieces I removed still, if you need any more just ask away mate.

[Stropp]

Hey Darren more pics might help mate, I think I will do this to mine before it decides to give up.

[MudRunnerTD]

Hey Darren more pics might help mate, I think I will do this to mine before it decides to give up.

No probs.

Here is a couple more. A couple of very good pics of the backing plate

39037

39038

39039

In the last pic you can see how much loving I had to give it. There is a steel shroud encased in the plastic of part of it. It was a biatch!!!


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[MudRunnerTD]

I did most of it without removing the rear banjo fuel line, take it off, soo much easier without it in the way, don't loose the bloody washer!!!!

[geckster]

OK. thanks a lot for that. Mine needs a bit of similar treatment to what you've done me thinks.

Maybe i'll have a go at getting in there with the die grinder.......

[MudRunnerTD]

OK. thanks a lot for that. Mine needs a bit of similar treatment to what you've done me thinks.

Maybe i'll have a go at getting in there with the die grinder.......

Oh yeah I forgot about that! Definitely need a die grinder or Dremel. I did a heap of work cutting off the bolt heads with the Dremel mate. Newby had suggested cutting a slot to then get a screw driver on them but was never going to happen still on the car. (Mat did this job on a bench)

So grind off the bolt heads then get into it with a 10mm wood chisel, worked way better than a big screw driver.

[nissannewby]

Newby had suggested cutting a slot to then get a screw driver on them but was never going to happen still on the car. (Mat did this job on a bench).

Correction, I did it on the vehicle also mate. It was just a suggestion if you could slot them then it may be easier. (Don't worry I'm not upset just letting you know I went through the same pain)

[MudRunnerTD]

Correction, I did it on the vehicle also mate. It was just a suggestion if you could slot them then it may be easier. (Don't worry I'm not upset just letting you know I went through the same pain)

Kool, sorry mate, I thought Paul had said you had it out of the car.

Regardless was a bugger of a job. So we are in a small club Mat ;) Lived that Pain!!

[geckster]

I saw some tiny litttle cutting discs for dremels the other day at the hardware shop. Might be worth a try.

[Stropp]

No probs.

Here is a couple more. A couple of very good pics of the backing plate

39037

39038

39039

In the last pic you can see how much loving I had to give it. There is a steel shroud encased in the plastic of part of it. It was a biatch!!!


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Thank MR will be a great help.

[Danjo]

Hi Guys, great thread heaps of info.....I don't suppose anyone has done this to a 2001 GU 3.0?

[Gags62]

Great information contained in here. Having multiple people successfully carry out the removal of the CSOLU gave me a fair bit of confidence although as previously mentioned that first whack is a hard step to take.

My story is that a week ago my 2005 4.2 patrol didn't start warm. After a few attempts it started and all seemed OK. Over the week it deteriorated to the point that it would not start warm at all and would only start to get to work and to get home from work. Also, as is common here the red immobiliser light came on after about a minute of driving.

The instructions contained here are great so I thought it was worth adding my notes and photos as I am sure others will have this issue.
I removed intercooler bolts and disconnected the large hoses and then just lifted it out of the way with the smaller hoses still connected. A piece of wood held it up.
Definitely disconnect as much of the wiring loom as you can from around the area and tie it back to the side. I had dual battery cables in the vicinity so had to get those out of the way as well. The more room the better.
Make sure you catch everything when you disconnect the fuel line (ie washers) it's a bugger when they fall and don't make it out the bottom.
I didn't have to go through the base plate of the CSOLU. Once I reached the circuit board I levered it out carefully and unsoldered the sought after white wire, which had about 10mm of insulation protruding plus the wire that was soldered to the circuit board.
A laptop and USB webcam were very useful to have a look at where I was at and what needed attacking next.

53755
53756
53757

Mission control

53759

[gaddy]

And another one , undid the bolts with a small pair of long nose vice grips , easy as , ( on this one anyway )
55721

[Yendor]

And another one , undid the bolts with a small pair of long nose vice grips , easy as , ( on this one anyway )


Yeah, I think MudRunner just made it sound hard to build the drama LOL

[MudRunnerTD]

Yeah, I think MudRunner just made it sound hard to build the drama LOL

lmfao!! I have no idea how you got purchase with the pliers!! I couldnt even see it!!

[HawkyGU]

I am in wollongong and will pass all this info to my auto electrician. My GU IV is now a shiny paper weight, no go. Why is it that this is about the only electrical device on the whole car bar the stereo and it craps itself. So that the car is useless.

[Diesolinedreams]

Guess what? mine has just shit itself today, I'm gunna have to have another read of this again to get my head around all of it. My patrol is a 2008 build with 3.0l CRD and I'm heading out to the Canning Stock in 4 weeks, glad this didnt happen out there or I would of been screwed. Whats wrong with Nissan, its a very confused motor company, they build great vehicles like strength and comfort but they power them with shit power plants, I just dont get it. Now I got to ring my sparky to see if we bypass this crap system or pay the stealer drug money to get it fixed. Or take MR great forum advice and hack it. I think I may not have the nurries to do that.

On the ignition column, I can see exposed wire around this plastic shroud that encases the ignition switch, so maybe thats the issue and may need replacing, however still want to disable this stupid complex system.

[TPC]

Guess what? mine has just shit itself today, I'm gunna have to have another read of this again to get my head around all of it. My patrol is a 2008 build with 3.0l CRD and I'm heading out to the Canning Stock in 4 weeks, glad this didnt happen out there or I would of been screwed. Whats wrong with Nissan, its a very confused motor company, they build great vehicles like strength and comfort but they power them with shit power plants, I just dont get it. Now I got to ring my sparky to see if we bypass this crap system or pay the stealer drug money to get it fixed. Or take MR great forum advice and hack it. I think I may not have the nurries to do that.

On the ignition column, I can see exposed wire around this plastic shroud that encases the ignition switch, so maybe thats the issue and may need replacing, however still want to disable this stupid complex system.

I had the same thing, exposed wires and that is what picks up the transponder signal.
I paid Nissan to replace it and it took them 3 days to get the part.

[Diesolinedreams]

All fixed, Nissan were surprising good, cost me $500 tho, however its all done. Was key reader around the ignition switch. Bloody thing

[SiberianPatrol]

Ok, mates, just had a flareup with the NATS on my 99 GU RD28Ti. Took it in for a pump and injector rebuild and the shop that is doing it reinstalled the pump and injectors, but now the NATS is not working correctly and the car won't start. It is still in the shop so they are still working on it, but I may have to go enlighten them. It's a reputable place here for this kind of work, but they may have messed up the solenoid on the injector pump.

Anyone have any advice that I need to tell them? Should I have them bypass the system completely? I do have an aftermarket security system in it (which should have bypassed the factory immobilizer).

[MudRunnerTD]

Bump for Stropp. Yell out if you need anything mate.

[SiberianPatrol]

Bump for Stropp. Yell out if you need anything mate.

Thanks MR. I got it sorted by swapping out the injector pump for a mechanical one ;) Here in Siberia I need reliability and straight mechanical is about as reliable as it gets.

[Stropp]

Thanks Darren, as you geussed it seems nats is the problem, when hot it wont go, when you pour water over the nats on the pump to cool it down, no problems so tomorrow it gets attacked. will keep you informed, i knew i should have done this 12 mths ago.

[MudRunnerTD]

Good luck mate I hope you sort it out and this thread is some help.

[gaddy]

Its a crap job . Did one myself , second one $200 at deisel Australia, happily gave them the money and picked it up 2hrs later

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[Stropp]

the diesel specialist here said you need to pull the pump off, no way im doing that, we have removed the control unit but are just trying to sort out the wiring as my white wire has power all the time even with ignition off

[MudRunnerTD]

Let me see if I can find a convo I had with Matt or Rodney about that hai pm, was a long time ago.

[MudRunnerTD]

No not at all mate, unplug the Loom to the immobiliser and you will use that wire. Once you get the hole thing off it will expose the other end of the loom, just put a spade plug on it and plug it back in.

There are 3 wires from the loom at the plug, turn the ignition on and only 1 wire will have 12v, that's your wire mate, the other 2 can be blanked off.

I recommend you have handy a little mirror and a torch to check what's going on as its bloody tight in there, but you are basically cutting this thing off balls and all mate.

It is bolted to the pump with security bolts that break off when fitted and simply can't be undone, I did not even try.

The Backing plate was the hardest piece to remove though, I think mainly because I could to tell if it was a backing plate or the bloody pump mate! Once I got under it though it was obviously a plate.

I MIT have some other pics, I certainly have the pieces I removed still, if you need any more just ask away mate.

There is the answer earlier in the thread Stropp.

[Stropp]

so why does mine have 12v power all the time?? i think we will just wire it from an ignition source to be safe, that should still work.

[Yendor]

It should be the middle wire in the 3 pin connector. Do you have a shut down timer fitted?

[Stropp]

It should be the middle wire in the 3 pin connector. Do you have a shut down timer fitted?


ah yes that will be why i have power all the time :)

[Stropp]

Its alive, the bolts screwed out without much trouble so not too much bashing, thanks heaps guys for the info and pics were awesome, also thanks to Darren and Yendor, so much easier with good knowledge. cheers Stropp

[Stropp]

Well had it out a few times now and it keeps starting so feeling more confident now with it again

[mickw1912]

going through this at the moment. not enjoying myself at all.

[Yendor]

going through this at the moment. not enjoying myself at all.

How did you go with it mate?

[mickw1912]

Hey Yendor, got all fixed and running mate, but I have another problem now. I went to transfer diesel from the sub tank, but it didnt activate. This is something I noticed when the NATS started malfunctioning, if the red light was on, the sub wouldnt pump.
Any sugestions?

05 STS 4.2

[MudRunnerTD]

Hey Yendor, got all fixed and running mate, but I have another problem now. I went to transfer diesel from the sub tank, but it didnt activate. This is something I noticed when the NATS started malfunctioning, if the red light was on, the sub wouldnt pump.
Any sugestions?

05 STS 4.2

Disconnect the battery for 30 minutes and it will clear the Codes, Hopefully this fixes your trouble. Is the Subtank Light on?

[mickw1912]

No mate, she doesnt respond at all. Ill try the disconect and let you know soon.

[mickw1912]

is there only the one wire thats needs reconnecting after removing the mode, or is there an earth wire also?

[MudRunnerTD]

is there only the one wire thats needs reconnecting after removing the mode, or is there an earth wire also?

See post #66 above for the wiring description.

[mickw1912]

No good mate.

[benbruce5]

Hey new to the thread can some one help me with info on how to bypass the nats on a CRD zd30 patrol

[Bidja]

Deleted post created new thread

[jskogsta]

You know, if you owned a ZD30 you wouldn't of had to do this :tease:

I think after this you might need to go float in that salt water tank LOL

I have a ZD30 and want to go the same thing - got any pointers? Got a GU 3.0l TDi Y61 ZD30. Just want to remove / bypass NATS alltogether, if that's possible....

[avdwhans]

ha guys anyone know the part number we need to be replaced having the same troubles with mine at the moment
cheers for any help

[Avo]

ha guys anyone know the part number we need to be replaced having the same troubles with mine at the moment
cheers for any help

post #28 shows the numbers on the part,dunno if it will help ya,one must be a part number

[drgtr]

No not at all mate, unplug the Loom to the immobiliser and you will use that wire. Once you get the hole thing off it will expose the other end of the loom, just put a spade plug on it and plug it back in.

There are 3 wires from the loom at the plug, turn the ignition on and only 1 wire will have 12v, that's your wire mate, the other 2 can be blanked off.

I recommend you have handy a little mirror and a torch to check what's going on as its bloody tight in there, but you are basically cutting this thing off balls and all mate.

It is bolted to the pump with security bolts that break off when fitted and simply can't be undone, I did not even try.

The Backing plate was the hardest piece to remove though, I think mainly because I could to tell if it was a backing plate or the bloody pump mate! Once I got under it though it was obviously a plate.

I MIT have some other pics, I certainly have the pieces I removed still, if you need any more just ask away mate.

You mentioned the backing plate.
So if we used long nose pliars to remove the security screw. Will the backing plate just then come out?

Thanks

[MudRunnerTD]

You mentioned the backing plate.
So if we used long nose pliars to remove the security screw. Will the backing plate just then come out?

Thanks

Yes it should but I'm.not sure you will get a bit on it. Good luck though. Take pics please.

[drgtr]

Yes it should but I'm.not sure you will get a bit on it. Good luck though. Take pics please.


Will do I have chatted to my mechanic mate who is excellent with this stuff and mods so Will tackle it soon.
That and the door lock on GU that can be a potential problem

Damn these pratrols and their little idiosyncrasies!
Such strong drive trains. Great TD4t motors but its all those little other things around the car

[MudRunnerTD]

Will do I have chatted to my mechanic mate who is excellent with this stuff and mods so Will tackle it soon.
That and the door lock on GU that can be a potential problem

Damn these pratrols and their little idiosyncrasies!
Such strong drive trains. Great TD4t motors but its all those little other things around the car

Search spring tower brace

[drgtr]

Thats it Im selling my GU and going back to a toyota prado 120. No problems with my last one lol
Why did you have to show me!. Sheesh

Too many Patrol problems.
Buy a TD42ti they said. It will be reliable they said.

[Stews_gq]

hi guys. would this be the same on a 2007 ZD30 gu ute?

[drgtr]

Found this infor for the zd30

When the NATS plays up in the ZD30s it normally a faulty IMMU (the part that wraps around the ignition switch and reads the chip in the key). You can easily replace this part yourself.

owever there are a few things you can check first.
- Have you tried a spare key as they have a security chip in them.
- A common fault on the Z30 is the aerial ring in the key barrel.
- Worst case scenario you should be able to get your IP modified for about $400 to solve the issue.

[Peter Harrison]

Hi, I am having the same NATS problem on a 1997 2.8 but the previous pics aren't my pump, heres a pic of my pump so where do I go from there i.e.which bit do I hack off.77773

I found this Injector pump stop solenoid GO GU RD28 & TD42 on line, so do I hot wire this??77774

[0-TJ-0]

Apologies for dredging up an old post but I remembered reading this recently and think it's a mod worth doing even if it's still working okay.

I took the nats off my old pump as I'm going to try get some dollhairs back out of it. I assume the unit on the pump is matched to the key and will be of no use to the next owner. Took a couple of snaps that might help clarify what's going on and what you're trying to achieve smashing bits off down in the dark.

The large black part is the bit you're trying to smash off..
77920

Once you get in behind it there's a wire heading back to the solenoid. This needs to see +12v when the key is at the ON position.
77921

If you cut or break the wire too short don't panic. It's a bit fiddley on the car but there's a little nut you can just attach a new wire.
77922

I like pictures and I know this would help me. Good luck and happy smashing.

[mojo53]

Hi Yendor

Yes mate i always use the same key, and as for little red flashing lights on top of the dash, i don't recall seeing one unless it's hidden under the dash matt, anyway i had to get the car towed home so now it's in the shed i will be able to check out the fuel system right through to eliminate that issue and look under the dash matt for red flashing lights and hope NATS is not the problem.
One other thing is where is the fuel pump and is it electrical or mechanical as i have never had to deal with any fuel problems before, come to think of it i brought the car with approx 28K on the clock (now 210K)and never had any problems what so ever in the 14 years i have had it so i cannot complain, and thanks to everyone for the suggestions now it's in the shed i can have a proper look.
Cheers
mojo.

[MudRunnerTD]

Hi Yendor

Yes mate i always use the same key, and as for little red flashing lights on top of the dash, i don't recall seeing one unless it's hidden under the dash matt, anyway i had to get the car towed home so now it's in the shed i will be able to check out the fuel system right through to eliminate that issue and look under the dash matt for red flashing lights and hope NATS is not the problem.
One other thing is where is the fuel pump and is it electrical or mechanical as i have never had to deal with any fuel problems before, come to think of it i brought the car with approx 28K on the clock (now 210K)and never had any problems what so ever in the 14 years i have had it so i cannot complain, and thanks to everyone for the suggestions now it's in the shed i can have a proper look.
Cheers
mojo.

Yendor is no longer here mate. The fuel pump is on the drivers side of the motor under the power steering pump. It sounds like your NATS mate. The pump is mechanical and a significant job to remove and refit. As you read this thread I went at mine with a wood chisel mate!!!! A Very big deal!!

There are a couple 9f other threads on the forum about the task of you have a search but fundamentally it is laid out here.

The red LED light will be under your dash mat for sure basically directly in front of the driver.

Read this thread a couple of times mate. Happy to chat.

[mojo53]

Thanks MuddRunnerTD

I found the red flashing light, my dash matt has been on there forever and i completely forgot all about the flashing light under neath it, as yes it stays on if i am lucky to get the car started and i have two keys and tried them both with no change so it looks like i will be up for the big bash to fix my problem.
You would think someone would make an exchange pump without the bullshit on it but knowing nothing about pumps i guess it's not that easy or cheap.
Any way i will red through all these posts again and i might get the courage to attempt it.
Cheers Guys.

[MudRunnerTD]

Thanks MuddRunnerTD

I found the red flashing light, my dash matt has been on there forever and i completely forgot all about the flashing light under neath it, as yes it stays on if i am lucky to get the car started and i have two keys and tried them both with no change so it looks like i will be up for the big bash to fix my problem.
You would think someone would make an exchange pump without the bullshit on it but knowing nothing about pumps i guess it's not that easy or cheap.
Any way i will red through all these posts again and i might get the courage to attempt it.
Cheers Guys.

Good luck mate. Yes I took some balls mate. A new pump from UFI is about $2700 plus fitting.....

[mojo53]

Well Guys

I took the big plunge and started on the injector pump this morning to get rid of the immobilizer crap and i am glad for all the information and especially the photo's from everyone who submitted them as with out them i would not have done it, and it was scary enough with all the photo's and help especially hitting a very expensive injector pump mostly hidden from view by all the clutter with a very big hammer and hoping i don't f...k up and damage something.
One item i would like to remove so i can get to the solenoid wire is highlighted in the enclosed photo i but it looks like it's some sort of adjuster and i don't really want to mess with anything that might stuff up the setting for the pump, but i cannot get a spanner onto the nut on top of the solenoid so i can replace the black wire and lengthen it to make sure i get a good clean connection, anyway the black box is gone and it's time to rebuild the mess i have made and hope for the best.
To be continued.....83024

[mojo53]

Job finished finally, not something i want to repeat again and the best part is it started first time so hopefully that problem is over but the red flashing light stays on when car is running not flashing as it does when it's stopped, just a steady red, has anyone else had the same indication after removing NATS from the injector pump, i was hoping it's because NATS is still lurking in the background for whatever is it controls who knows.
I would still like to know what the adjuster screw is in my previous post as i want to check the solenoid for collateral damage after all the violence that happened around it and that adjuster is blocking access to it.
Thanks to everyone for the advice and especially the photo's they were a great help.

[MudRunnerTD]

Well done mate. Yes the red LED is now there and one forever. Put a piece of tape over it or hit it with a Black texta.

[mojo53]

I am not bothered by the light as i have a dash mat that covers it,until this drama unfolded i had forgotten it was under there for the past 13 years.
Thanks for all the help.

[MudRunnerTD]

SNIP
I would still like to know what the adjuster screw is in my previous post as i want to check the solenoid for collateral damage after all the violence that happened around it and that adjuster is blocking access to it.
Thanks to everyone for the advice and especially the photo's they were a great help.

I am pretty sure that is the Go Fast screw mate. If you have never had your car on a Dyno i would certainly encourage that. the potential from a stock turbo and pump is a significant improvement over factory settings without any real compromise. I would expect to see 20% power gains from a tune.

[Koonwarra]

Hey Guys awesome info here I have same issue. Q has anyone been able to simulate signal from NATS ECU to CSOLU? Thinking it may save destroying CSOLU or is the CSOLU generally at fault? Cheers in advance JK

[vk4khq@ozemail.com.au]

Hey Guys awesome info here I have same issue. Q has anyone been able to simulate signal from NATS ECU to CSOLU? Thinking it may save destroying CSOLU or is the CSOLU generally at fault? Cheers in advance JK

Hi all, lots of interesting info to try & sort out the same problem on my 2002 Y61 3.0L TDI. I can barely touch the plug going into the back of the I.P., above the 4 outlet pipes let alone remove it. Just above it there are 2 multi-pin plastic connectors. The right 1 is a black 8 pin plug into the main wiring loom but the left 1 is a grey 6 pin plug with a short cable going down to the inaccessible plug on the back of the I.P. Its wire colors are light blue, pink, green/yellow (visible left to right while still connected), & black, white, blue visible from left to right if you disconnect the plug & twist it 180 degrees.)
Any ideas if 1 of these wires is the fuel cut-off?

What do the following abbreviations mean: CSOLU, CRD, Y61(GU?), Y62, etc. I haven't found a glossary here yet.
Cheers,
Steve.

[Hodge]

Hey mate.
In case you didn't notice, this thread and the issue is related to the TD42 engine variants with NATS.
Now I don't know IF the 3L DI and CRD models have the same sort of system... You have to make sure before and IF you go down the "hacking the system with a chisel" road...

CSOLU = The solenoid at the back of the bump being discussed here.
CRD = Common Rail Diesel - Your Patrol isn't one of them. Yours is a DI (Direct Injection). CRD 3L variants kicked in, 2007 ish???
Y61 = The GU series of Patrols. Y60 was GQ and Y62 is the new V8 petrols.

[vk4khq@ozemail.com.au]

Aaaah! So simple if it is explained. I am surprised there is no glossary of abbreviations, acronyms, etc on the forum.
My 3L D.I I.P. looks like it is a Bosch but is impossible to even get the plug off the back socket without dismantling half the engine. It is nothing like the pix of the 4.2L donk, so nothing to hack or bash.
Cheers, Steve.

[Joel A]

lmfao!! I have no idea how you got purchase with the pliers!! I couldnt even see it!!

Gday MRTD, Will it still work if i trace the cable back cut it there and then hook the correct wire up to 12v? Or does the whole circuit board need to be removed Cheers