2 or 3 inch lift.

[GU_Mick]

I am thinking of either doing a 2 or 3 inch lift. I'll probably go Dobinsons. I like their flexi coils. If I go 3 do I need panhards and draglinks too?

Does anybody have a 3 inch with 285's? Are you happy with it? Got some photos?

[Evo]

Hi mate,

I just got my 3" lift a couple of weeks ago.
Don't need panhards, but they will be added later on.
I got the steering draglink so I didn't have to worry about messing with the steering wheel/airbag to have the wheel straight.
Because I have a long range sub tank, the rear upper trailing arms were changed. The driver side is a bent arm to clear the back of the tank on full wheel droop.
Needed extended brake lines too.
I have 305's on mine. I don't mind the look.

Here's a couple of photos.

Evo

[Bloodyaussie]

At 3inch you really should do panhards,radius arms , brake lines and swaybar links at a minimum.. I did not notice but at full flex on a 3 inch my tail shaft was hitting my long range tank..

There are a number of other issues you need look at..

I went from 2 inch to 3 and now I am 4 inch and love the look.

[GU_Mick]

At 3inch you really should do panhards,radius arms , brake lines and swaybar links at a minimum.. I did not notice but at full flex on a 3 inch my tail shaft was hitting my long range tank..

There are a number of other issues you need look at..

I went from 2 inch to 3 and now I am 4 inch and love the look.

I've had a 4, 5 and a 7 inch lift in the past. This truck is being built as a tourer. I've got small kids and don't want the poor little buggers not being able to climb in.

[BigRAWesty]

I've had a 4, 5 and a 7 inch lift in the past. This truck is being built as a tourer. I've got small kids and don't want the poor little buggers not being able to climb in.

They'll grow up. If you have side steps 3 or 4 " won't be an issue..

[my third 256]

and when the 3"is done then you want 4" so go the extra hight and be done with it
also save heaps when done

[Evo]

At 3inch you really should do panhards,radius arms , brake lines and swaybar links at a minimum.. I did not notice but at full flex on a 3 inch my tail shaft was hitting my long range tank..

There are a number of other issues you need look at..

I went from 2 inch to 3 and now I am 4 inch and love the look.

I forgot the sway at links. Mine were already extended, I'll say that's why I forgot.

Evo

[Evo]

and when the 3"is done then you want 4" so go the extra hight and be done with it
also save heaps when done

I wanted 4, but to keep the peace (and so the short missus as I call her could still get in without a ladder...) I ended up going 3".
Because I got heavier load rated springs, my height over standard is 4".

Evo

[lhurley]

Do any of you guys with big lifts have it engineered?? Or do you just run the gauntlet?

[Ben-e-boy]

Do any of you guys with big lifts have it engineered?? Or do you just run the gauntlet?

Nope to get a big lift engineered, you need to hire a public road where you can do 100km and you need to hire a professional or semi professional driver to do the test at considerable cost.

I have run the gauntlet for years now and have only been picked on for the tyres, now I dont run the muddies on road I do tyre changes in the bush, I still firmly believe my success for evading the authority is that it looks like a crappy farm ute.

I had a meeting with a respected engineer last friday about engineering some things on my ute. Now I am thinking of changing back to a 2 inch lift to make engineering easier, I can get the long arms engineered, and a torsion bar style sway bar, the best thing is my shock towers, I will be able to use my current shocks with modified shock towers so I can achieve the same flex as I do now. When I want to go off road I will use 37's to gain back some ground clearanceand even better diff clearance. Not to mention the increased stability and better all round handling.

[Drewboyaus]

Nope to get a big lift engineered, you need to hire a public road where you can do 100km and you need to hire a professional or semi professional driver to do the test at considerable cost.

I have run the gauntlet for years now and have only been picked on for the tyres, now I dont run the muddies on road I do tyre changes in the bush, I still firmly believe my success for evading the authority is that it looks like a crappy farm ute.

I had a meeting with a respected engineer last friday about engineering some things on my ute. Now I am thinking of changing back to a 2 inch lift to make engineering easier, I can get the long arms engineered, and a torsion bar style sway bar, the best thing is my shock towers, I will be able to use my current shocks with modified shock towers so I can achieve the same flex as I do now. When I want to go off road I will use 37's to gain back some ground clearanceand even better diff clearance. Not to mention the increased stability and better all round handling.

Are you going to have to chop the guards to fit the bigger rubber under only 2 inches or have you got a tricky way around it?
I'll be very interested to see what you do with your new mods because I'm only running 2 inch lift and I'm keen to get better travel from it without going to 3 or 4......

[Evo]

Nope to get a big lift engineered, you need to hire a public road where you can do 100km and you need to hire a professional or semi professional driver to do the test at considerable cost.

I have run the gauntlet for years now and have only been picked on for the tyres, now I dont run the muddies on road I do tyre changes in the bush, I still firmly believe my success for evading the authority is that it looks like a crappy farm ute.

I had a meeting with a respected engineer last friday about engineering some things on my ute. Now I am thinking of changing back to a 2 inch lift to make engineering easier, I can get the long arms engineered, and a torsion bar style sway bar, the best thing is my shock towers, I will be able to use my current shocks with modified shock towers so I can achieve the same flex as I do now. When I want to go off road I will use 37's to gain back some ground clearanceand even better diff clearance. Not to mention the increased stability and better all round handling.

I recently went through engineering with a 'custom' project.
Engineering didn't require 100kms per hour on a hired public road with a hired professional driver.
This stands for anything requiring engineering to be used on public roads.
Just need an approved engineer affiliated with transport authority and a brake test at speed limit (mine was done in a 60 zone).
Cost was $450.
That includes a full inspection, drive and brake tests, and report, ready to take for licensing.
As for 4x4 lifts, I had spoken to a contact at the transport department before getting my lift and they said legally, without needing engineering, I can go 1 inch increase on tyre diameter, 2inch suspension lift plus 1inch body lift.
If no body lift, I can go 3 inch on suspension, and tyres just need to 'look proportional", not overly small to make the lift look out of place, and not too big so that they are noticeably larger than factory specs.

Evo

[Ben-e-boy]

Thats in WA, who do they get to do do the swerve test which has to be done to comply. In Qld to get the swerve test done the info given in my previous post was given to me by the DOT affilliated engineer last friday. To get out of it I need a 2 inch lift.

[Ben-e-boy]

Are you going to have to chop the guards to fit the bigger rubber under only 2 inches or have you got a tricky way around it?
I'll be very interested to see what you do with your new mods because I'm only running 2 inch lift and I'm keen to get better travel from it without going to 3 or 4......

It depends how far you want to go, you could just extend your bump stops and run a longer shock and get some superflex arms or something.

[Drewboyaus]

I was thinking of the Superflex arms.
I assume the extended bump stops is to stop the shock smashing at the top of it travel when using a longer one?
I see Daz fitted 80 series bump stops, is there any reason you'd do that rather than buy an "off the rack" aftermarket set?

[Drewboyaus]

Just realised I've totally hijacked the thread! Hahaha

[BigRAWesty]

I was thinking of the Superflex arms.
I assume the extended bump stops is to stop the shock smashing at the top of it travel when using a longer one?
I see Daz fitted 80 series bump stops, is there any reason you'd do that rather than buy an "off the rack" aftermarket set?

That's all the after market ones are?? So why pay for a rename when you pop into the salvage yard..

[MudRunnerTD]

I was thinking of the Superflex arms.
I assume the extended bump stops is to stop the shock smashing at the top of it travel when using a longer one?
I see Daz fitted 80 series bump stops, is there any reason you'd do that rather than buy an "off the rack" aftermarket set?

Because they bolt straight in Drew. Available everywhere and easy to fit.

[Drewboyaus]

Because they bolt straight in Drew. Available everywhere and easy to fit.

Thanks Daz.
S'pose an 80's gotta be good for something other than burning.....
LOL

[Ben-e-boy]

80 series bumps are progressive, before you get shocks you need to install the bump stops then flex it up with the shocks removed so can get the right collapsed length. You want to set you up travel with about 10mm before full compression on the shock as a safety net

[Evo]

Thats in WA, who do they get to do do the swerve test which has to be done to comply. In Qld to get the swerve test done the info given in my previous post was given to me by the DOT affilliated engineer last friday. To get out of it I need a 2 inch lift.

Don't get me wrong, not having a go at what you are saying.
But I've had DOT tell me that an empty LPG tank needs to be removed by a professional so it 'won't blow up' so I don't usually believe what I hear.

All done by an accredited Automotive Engineer on the transport departments registry.

According to 'Transport and Main Roads Queensland Code of Practice: Vehicle Modifications' you can go up to 75mm (3") with no 'formal certification or lane change test required'.
And you can, according to this, go up to 125mm (5") with only having to 'do a lane change test'
Lane change test can be up to a maximum of 100km/h

But you are saying you want to get out of it?
How big of a lift are you running?

Evo

[nissannewby]

The swerve test has to comply for Ben-e due to the fitment of aftermarket/custom away bars and suspension components that are far outside "normal" modification thinks like shock mountings and getting the superflex arms and long arms compliant.

[Evo]

The swerve test has to comply for Ben-e due to the fitment of aftermarket/custom away bars and suspension components that are far outside "normal" modification thinks like shock mountings and getting the superflex arms and long arms compliant.

According to them, the only modification that 'may' need certification is for struts or uprights.
And as long as brake lines and bias are set up to suit lift, all ok.
As long as the items fitted were designed as replacements for the make and model they are fitted to, there is no issue...

Am I missing something or are they?

This is why they need to make one set of guidelines/laws to encompass the whole country.

Evo

[nissannewby]

Your not reading what's been written. Ben-e is only talking about what he has to do. He has modified chassis mounts for suspension etc etc. Any man and and his dog can go and get a generic 2" lift and be done with it even a 3" could be just eyed over buy a engineer.

[Evo]

Your not reading what's been written. Ben-e is only talking about what he has to do. He has modified chassis mounts for suspension etc etc. Any man and and his dog can go and get a generic 2" lift and be done with it even a 3" could be just eyed over buy a engineer.

I have been reading.
The question about legalities wasn't for some trick suspension setup... Just for the bigger lifts.
And the original question was for either a 2" or 3"...

Evo

[Ben-e-boy]

Don't get me wrong, not having a go at what you are saying.
But I've had DOT tell me that an empty LPG tank needs to be removed by a professional so it 'won't blow up' so I don't usually believe what I hear.

All done by an accredited Automotive Engineer on the transport departments registry.

According to 'Transport and Main Roads Queensland Code of Practice: Vehicle Modifications' you can go up to 75mm (3") with no 'formal certification or lane change test required'.

Correct, that is total lift made up of 50mm suspension and 25mm tyre ( 2inch lift and 33's)

And you can, according to this, go up to 125mm (5") with only having to 'do a lane change test'
Lane change test can be up to a maximum of 100km/h

Correct again, total lift made up of 50mm suspension, 50mm body lift and 25mm tyres

But you are saying you want to get out of it?
How big of a lift are you running?

Evo

Yes, I am currently running 100mm suspension lift and to get out of a swerve test I will be dropping it to 50mm.


According to them, the only modification that 'may' need certification is for struts or uprights.
And as long as brake lines and bias are set up to suit lift, all ok.
As long as the items fitted were designed as replacements for the make and model they are fitted to, there is no issue...

Am I missing something or are they?

This is why they need to make one set of guidelines/laws to encompass the whole country.

Evo

You are missing alot in my case. My lower control arms required fabrication to install. The original chassis mount was removed and replaced with another genuine mount 300mm further along the chassis. The sway bar requires fabrication to install, the shock mounts will be redesigned


I have been reading.
The question about legalities wasn't for some trick suspension setup... Just for the bigger lifts.
And the original question was for either a 2" or 3"...

Evo

Yes a suspension lift greater than 50mm requires an inspection and swerve test as far as I am aware.

I have not answered the OP, that has already been answered.

[BigRAWesty]

Yours will be a LLWB vehicle.
Seems weird how 50mm is the difference between jumping threw hoops and a flick'n'tick passing..
Crazy..

[Ben-e-boy]

Yours will be a LLWB vehicle.
Seems weird how 50mm is the difference between jumping threw hoops and a flick'n'tick passing..
Crazy..

Whats llwb

[Drewboyaus]

Yours will be a LLWB vehicle.
Seems weird how 50mm is the difference between jumping threw hoops and a flick'n'tick passing..
Crazy..

I think the situation with Ben-e's ride is that there are lots of custom elements to the mounts, arms etc. rather than it being purely an issue of standard 100mm lift assessment.
In Vic engineering isn't that difficult for a relatively standard 4inch lift. It is as Evo suggested a quick once over and hand over some cash. In Ben-e's case though there's plenty of other custom stuff.
It is curious though that as long as you keep the lift at 50mm, there is no inspection required.

[BigRAWesty]

I think the situation with Ben-e's ride is that there are lots of custom elements to the mounts, arms etc. rather than it being purely an issue of standard 100mm lift assessment.
In Vic engineering isn't that difficult for a relatively standard 4inch lift. It is as Evo suggested a quick once over and hand over some cash. In Ben-e's case though there's plenty of other custom stuff.
It is curious though that as long as you keep the lift at 50mm, there is no inspection required.

Yes I get that. You also have to remember that what is legal in qld ain't anywhere else.
So if travelling interstate unless you have it engineered and papers to show you are running the gauntlet..

[BigRAWesty]

Whats llwb

Long long wheel base... :cool:

[Ben-e-boy]

I think the situation with Ben-e's ride is that there are lots of custom elements to the mounts, arms etc. rather than it being purely an issue of standard 100mm lift assessment.
In Vic engineering isn't that difficult for a relatively standard 4inch lift. It is as Evo suggested a quick once over and hand over some cash. In Ben-e's case though there's plenty of other custom stuff.
It is curious though that as long as you keep the lift at 50mm, there is no inspection required.

I am going the 50mm lift to get around the swerve test only. Every thing else has to be inspected. I have to give the engineer info on all the store bought and fabricated parts ( material type, size where and how I will use gussetts, bolt size and strength etc), and all welds have to be done to AS/NZ 1554 done by a certified welder and the welder has to provide proof of cirtification.

[Evo]

All good.

You can go 75mm without any inspection/certification.

Good luck with the rig Ben-e!

Evo

[menace 2]

[QUOTE=Bloodyaussie;448514]At 3inch you really should do panhards,radius arms , brake lines and swaybar links at a minimum.. I did not notice but at full flex on a 3 inch my tail shaft was hitting my long range tank..

when you say radius arms ..do you mean the arms themselves have to be longer ?

[Evo]

[QUOTE=Bloodyaussie;448514]At 3inch you really should do panhards,radius arms , brake lines and swaybar links at a minimum.. I did not notice but at full flex on a 3 inch my tail shaft was hitting my long range tank..

when you say radius arms ..do you mean the arms themselves have to be longer ?

I think he means either castor bushes, drop boxes, or new arms, to help get the castor angles back somewhere to optimal.

Evo

[BigRAWesty]

Yep. A 2" lift is the Max you can go before having to much castor. This makes the car like a dart and it wants to steer itself Off the road, instead of settling into center..
There a few options when it comes to changing the caster.
Option 1- offset bushes. legal, but limit the flex of the rear Bush.
Option 2- drop boxes. Illegal, but bring the stock arm back to Stock angles so you get nice flex.
Option 3- engineered arms to suit the lift..
Expensive, unsure if legal, I'd say yes but unsure, allow the use of stock bushes (recommended) and allow the rear Bush to be at a stock angle for max flex..

So if you want the best, get engineered arms.
You you want legal and less expensive then just do the bushes..
If you can't afford New arms and not to fussed about legalities then drop boxes..

Cheers

[GU_Mick]

Yep. A 2" lift is the Max you can go before having to much castor. This makes the car like a dart and it wants to steer itself Off the road, instead of settling into center..
There a few options when it comes to changing the caster.
Option 1- offset bushes. legal, but limit the flex of the rear Bush.
Option 2- drop boxes. Illegal, but bring the stock arm back to Stock angles so you get nice flex.
Option 3- engineered arms to suit the lift..
Expensive, unsure if legal, I'd say yes but unsure, allow the use of stock bushes (recommended) and allow the rear Bush to be at a stock angle for max flex..

So if you want the best, get engineered arms.
You you want legal and less expensive then just do the bushes..
If you can't afford New arms and not to fussed about legalities then drop boxes..

Cheers

I have been doing some reading on the changes to the legislation here in NSW. Looks like a 2" lift is all that is legal now. Insurance company's will start using that against you I'm sure. I'd love a 3" or a 4" but I think I might have to stick to a 2". I'll just put longer shocks on.