Sticky brakes and swivel hubs

[P4trol]

I've been rebuilding the swivel hubs and have a few questions.

There were no kingpin plugs on mine. This sits below the outer bearing race for the king pin. What are they meant to do, and are they important?

When I removed the axle, there were two washers (1 steel, 1 copper) on the end of the axle next to the snap ring. Upon reassembly, the copper one had to be left out, and I can see no reason why. Why?

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/11/25.jpg

I installed new brake pads, and pushed in the pistons as is normal. Now one side binds and I suspect the slide is stiff. I may stick a rebuild kit in after I confirm the swivel hub meddling has been pulled off successfully. Do I just need to undo the main pin and grease it in the meantime?

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/11/26.jpg

[MudRunnerTD]

No the Cups are not important and there to stop cross contamination of the greases when they get hot. Toyota dont even run them from factory. No Issue.

With the washer. i would suggest you have a seal in the wrong way or the inner seal is not seated properly. strip it down and check it. is it like that on both sides?

Maybe take the calliper off and give it a good clean. it might come good.

[Cuppa]

No washers next to the snap ring on mine. However if they both fitted prior to disassembly I would first try pulling the axle out a bit more with some pliers or simlar, & if this is not possible I would wonder if it’s because something which has changed when doing the swivel hubs. I recall reading somewhere that this can happen if things are not put back together properly. But maybe your ‘meddling’ / replacement of worn parts has resulted in the slack that the washers took up no longer existing?

By slide, I assume you are referring to No.1 & 8 in the diagram. If so it the caliper should separate into two without unbolting anything. 8 pulls out of 15 once you have prised the rubber boots (2) off the ridge that holds them in place.I discovered this by accident when fitting new pads myself recently. It made putting G clamps onto the pistons to push them in much easier due to better access.

Cuppa

[P4trol]

I have yet to do the other side. Just been a bit ticked off its been 4 weeks between slow postage and a dud weekend last week. So one side together with the anomalies already noted, and the other cleaned and partly greased ready to fit. Takes me about three times the time it should. Keen to attack it again tomorrow.

I'm fairly confident the seals are in the correct way (except maybe the wiper seal at the back). The old king pin bearings were fairly worn and corroded, so perhaps it was that. I'll do the other side and check if it is as original, or needs the copper washer out.

[WintonLad]

If you put too much grease in the swivel hub it can create a suction effect that will stop you pulling the axle out far enough, and the plates under the kingpins are to retain grease, as when the top one gets hot, the grease softens and runs down into the swivel hub leaving the bearing without enough lube, just pull the top one out every 10000k and jam some fresh grease in there

[MudRunnerTD]

If you put too much grease in the swivel hub it can create a suction effect that will stop you pulling the axle out far enough, and the plates under the kingpins are to retain grease, as when the top one gets hot, the grease softens and runs down into the swivel hub leaving the bearing without enough lube, just pull the top one out every 10000k and jam some fresh grease in there


Hi Winton,

Actually you should not pack Any grease in the swivel housing mate. If you use the correct grease you should pack the grease in the CV directly and being a Hi Temp grease it will not liquify when hot.

Using the correct Hi Temp grease in the King Pin Bearings will see them hold the grease in place long term also. Note the King Pin Bearings are for steering only and don't spin like a CV or Wheel Bearing so won't see the kind of temps of the other components. The main purpose of the caps is to stop cross contamination of the CV grease and the Wheel Bearing Grease assuming you use 2 different Greases. I use a CV / Wheel Bearing Hi Temp Extreme grease for all components and have never had an issue.

If the caps are serviceable then certainly leave them in but don't pay $40 each from Nissan if you wreck them! As stated the Toyota 80 series use nearly an identical swivel hub / king pin design and there is No provision for the caps in the Toyota design. Leave them out if there stuffed. No probs.

[lhurley]

Its possible that you cant get the 2nd washer in because the cv has been pushed back. they do have a tiny bit of wiggle room.

[P4trol]

I've pulled and wiggled it for more length to no avail. Will keep an eye on it.

The sticky slide was due to the pin with the rubber piece being bone dry. It took about 20 minutes of persistence to remove.

[threedogs]

Renew your brake fluid and pull calipers apart and grease so nice and smooth,
or put a reco caliper kit through them

[lhurley]

I've pulled and wiggled it for more length to no avail. Will keep an eye on it.

The sticky slide was due to the pin with the rubber piece being bone dry. It took about 20 minutes of persistence to remove.

Been there, done that. Feel your pain.

[P4trol]

Am doing things backwards. Brake fluid was done a few weeks ago.

Did the brake on the other side, and the pins were smooth like it had just been greased. Put some Bendix heavy duty pads in and I can lock the wheels now. I'm guessing the old tyres are the limiting factor now.

So back to the circlip on the axle - LH side. All Washers fit on this side. I will have to revisit the RH side in a short while.

Test drive us fine - any monkey can put it together. Longevity of the job is a byproduct of doing it the right way. I wait patiently with fingers crossed.

[MudRunnerTD]

Am doing things backwards. Brake fluid was done a few weeks ago.

Did the brake on the other side, and the pins were smooth like it had just been greased. Put some Bendix heavy duty pads in and I can lock the wheels now. I'm guessing the old tyres are the limiting factor now.

So back to the circlip on the axle - LH side. All Washers fit on this side. I will have to revisit the RH side in a short while.

Test drive us fine - any monkey can put it together. Longevity of the job is a byproduct of doing it the right way. I wait patiently with fingers crossed.

I would be checking that the seal that goes onto the CV is seated. The difference I 1 or 2mm only. Very frustrating. Do you have the big Nuts or the GU upgrade with the round nut and holes? Do you have the correct nut spanner or just using a screw driver and a hammer?

You will need to strip it I think. Don't wait too long or you could be wrecking a brand new seal that is not in the right way or not seated correctly. Because it is fresh you will strip it down in 10minutes mate.

[P4trol]

Ok, pulled it off again today for another look. Pulled off disc, then the piece behind it that encloses the cv joint. The only thing affecting the spacing with the washers/circlip is the seal on the back right near the spindle bearing. I tried to seat the seal further, but I wasn't really sure whether it did or not. When it was together again I used a screwdriver to lightly prise out the axle a bit further. I think a bit of grease squished a bit more, (as was mentioned by an earlier poster) and now all 2 rings and circlip fit.

I am not sure about the "big nut" options. I have the hub nut tool and a torque wrench to use.