Help please with rear left axle oil leak issue

[dom14]

Hi guys,
I have changed the inner axle oil seal of my 1990 GQ Patrol(RB30 carby, manual, all disc brakes) about five times so far to fix an oil leaking from the rear left oil seal. I've attached few photos to show what I've done. I've been pretty careful not to drag or put the weight of the axle on the oil seal when I was inserting the axle. The blue (hard) oil seal was recommended by a mechanic friend who said the previous soft one with metal ring doesn't work.

This time it probably appears to be slightly better, but still is leaking diff oil.
First eight photos show the latest blue(hard) oil seal and the old one as well.
The hard blue oil seal in all rubber, while the old one has a metal ring with soft rubber middle with
a spring around it.

I would like to fix this myself and really appreciate any tips, advice how to go about it.

This Patrol has a suspension lift as well. The rear axle bearing doesn't have any play or wobble, and looks like in pretty good condition. I injected HTB grease using a needle injector with a grease gun.

[dom14]

These latest three photos show the oil leaks after new seal. I drove the car for about a week before taking these photos.

[happygu]

Like the blue seal, and can only think of two causes for your continual leak ......

Less Likely :
Check out the axle shaft for scoring of marks where it may be damaging the seal, or not sealing properly.

Most Likely :
Wheel Bearing itself is worn, which is then causing the axle to rotate off centre / or in an oval pattern, which is letting oil past the seal.


Mic

[Clunk]

Did you remove all the diff oil from bearings and housing and repack the bearings with high speed bearing grease?

[dom14]

Yes. I used HTB with a grease injector needle to inject as much grease I can , using a grease gun.
I didn't remove diff oil from the bearing. But, there weren't much. I didn't want to degrease the bearing before I repacked it with grease, 'cos
I couldn't get the bearing out. I don't think it's the left over oil that keeps gushing out of the bearing case, 'cos it keeps leaking even after I cleaned if from outside.


Did you remove all the diff oil from bearings and housing and repack the bearings with high speed bearing grease?

[dom14]

How do I diagnose a worn out bearing mate?
It doesn't have any play or wobble, or doesn't make any noise either. That's why I thought the bearing is in good condition. From what I can see, the axle doesn't seem to have any damage on the outside, or any bends.

[cnpatsy]

I am pretty sure on that type of axle bearing there is an internal seal aswell But as above could be the wheel bearing out of round

[dom14]

Internal seal should be grease seal, I reckon. This model(disc brake) only has one bearing in rear. So, the diff oil need to stop at that inner oil seal.

Outer oil seal should be the grease one, as I see.

I'm not sure how to properly diagnose a worn out wheel bearing. This one had no wobbling or play.


I am pretty sure on that type of axle bearing there is an internal seal aswell But as above could be the wheel bearing out of round

[happygu]

We have had one before - on a Toyota Ute, where the bearing seemed fine, no excess play, ran smooth, etc, but it kept breaking the axle studs and leaking oil everywhere.

Ended up replacing the bearing, after trying everything else, and it fixed it .... sometimes it isn't easy to figure out if it is no good.

Usually a bearing will get rumbly or noisy as it wears and gets unserviceable, which in most cases gives you the evidence you need, but in this case there was no noise at all

Mic

[dom14]

Hi mate,
There's is evidence on the bearing nut that it's been replaced before. There's fair bit of chipping on it by hitting.

I'm not too sure, but my gut feeling is that the bearing is fine.
Also, the rear right side has no dramas.
Sometime, I'm wondering, whether this has anything to do with the diff+ axle housing moving towards left a bit(out of alignment),
as a result of the suspension lift.

When I started a thread about it while ago, folks here advised me either I can leave it as it is or get an adjustable panhard rod and align it. I was told there are many GQ's with that issue, and they are just going fine.
May be I should try that first?!!!

I was advised by a fella at "Bearing Wholesalers" that it may need a "Speedy sleeve", he ordered a one for around $45 or so. But, I didn't go ahead with it, as I was bit skeptical about that solution.
Also, I didn't have much of an idea on how to fit a "Speedy sleeve" onto the axle.



We have had one before - on a Toyota Ute, where the bearing seemed fine, no excess play, ran smooth, etc, but it kept breaking the axle studs and leaking oil everywhere.

Ended up replacing the bearing, after trying everything else, and it fixed it .... sometimes it isn't easy to figure out if it is no good.

Usually a bearing will get rumbly or noisy as it wears and gets unserviceable, which in most cases gives you the evidence you need, but in this case there was no noise at all

Mic

[dom14]

I'm just wondering...
Can the blocked diff breather(original one) cause this problem?!!
Assuming that's the case, how do I check whether the diff breather is clogged or not?!
Thanks guys.

[Clunk]

I'm just wondering...
Can the blocked diff breather(original one) cause this problem?!!
Assuming that's the case, how do I check whether the diff breather is clogged or not?!
Thanks guys.

Suck or blow through it

[the ferret]

A speedy sleeve will do the trick if there is scoring on the axle seal surface, they are easy to fit and all you need is some Araldite, the speedy sleeve comes with a fitting tool.
Cheers, the ferret.

[dom14]

Cool. You've obviously done that. Thanks for the tip mate.
The axle has no burring or scarring that I can see. Looks pretty smooth and clear.
I think the problem is something else. Although the speedy sleeve might fix the problem with the extra grip that
it will give to the seal lips. I will keep it as the last resolution, if the diff breather and bearing turn out to be in good condition.


A speedy sleeve will do the trick if there is scoring on the axle seal surface, they are easy to fit and all you need is some Araldite, the speedy sleeve comes with a fitting tool.
Cheers, the ferret.

[the ferret]

Another way, remove the inner spring from the seal, look closely and you will see a join, the spring will unscrew from itself, cut 5mm off the female end and screw it back together, this will then give more tension to the lip seal, I hope you are using a double lip seal and not just some aftermarket single lip seal!!
Cheers, the ferret.

[happygu]

I did forget to mention the next obvious cause which would be a bent diff housing ....

Not so many people bend up the rears - more so the fronts.....

Mic

[dom14]

Ok. I will make sure the next one I buy, I buy it from Nissan. It's only few dollars more.
I usually get it from Bearing Wholesalers, and the above blue hard seal, I got from them, but not by myself, but through a former mechanic.
Everytime, I asked them, they only had the metal one with soft lips, and couldn't produce the hard blue one for me.
Pretty strange, isn't it?!
When I put the blue one this time, I thought I've fixed the problem once for all, apparently I haven't. :))

Cheers mate


Another way, remove the inner spring from the seal, look closely and you will see a join, the spring will unscrew from itself, cut 5mm off the female end and screw it back together, this will then give more tension to the lip seal, I hope you are using a double lip seal and not just some aftermarket single lip seal!!
Cheers, the ferret.

[dom14]

How would you manage to bend the diff housing mate?! Accidents?
The rig had no accidents in the past. Nothing recorded AFAIK.


I did forget to mention the next obvious cause which would be a bent diff housing ....

Not so many people bend up the rears - more so the fronts.....

Mic

[the ferret]

I don't like the hard blue seals mate, best to go genuine through Nizzbits
Cheers, the ferret.

[WintonLad]

Be sure there is no pitting or scoring in the housing where the outside of the seal sits, I'd clean all the oily residue off it all put some ultra blue on it before you put it in, and as above, be sure the axle has no damage or a ring worn into it, do the seals you remove have any damage to them?

[the ferret]

If ya don't have any Ultra blue, Gladwrap will do the trick!!
Cheers, the ferret.

[dom14]

Be sure there is no pitting or scoring in the housing where the outside of the seal sits, I'd clean all the oily residue off it all put some ultra blue on it before you put it in, and as above, be sure the axle has no damage or a ring worn into it, do the seals you remove have any damage to them?

Hi mate,
There's no damage that I can see.
It's the picture as well. Probably not so clear, but I couldn't see any damage.
Inner lips of the seal looks pretty good.
I'll take a close-up picture tomorrow.
What is Ultra Blue mate?!!

[dom14]

What is Ultre Blue mate?!
Thanks


If ya don't have any Ultra blue, Gladwrap will do the trick!!
Cheers, the ferret.

[WintonLad]

It's a silicone sealant/gasket maker made by loctite, and it's good shit, handles temps of over 250 degrees, handles oil, water, fuel, anything you can throw at it, I don't put a gasket in anywhere without it, can always see what I've worked on cause it all has ultra blue squeezing out the joint, I advise getting a tube a leaving it in your car, perfect for some bush mechanics to get you home

[dom14]

I think this problem sorted out itself, after the hard lip hard rubber axle seal(the blue one) installation. It hasn't been leaking much. But, I think the problem has switched places and it's now it diff pinion bearing seal. I discovered the diff breather hose is blocked with junk and cleaned it, but bit too late for the pinion bearing and seal, I reckon.
Currently, brainstorming ways to fix the pinion bearing play, seal and noise issue.