Engine Number to Voltage

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

I am a new member, well part there of because I bought a deceased estate vehicle which has a Nissan SD33 diesel and gearbox in it. The previous owner was close to finishing the conversion when he took ill and never recovered. I am missing a starter motor and all the air cleaner components that bolt on to the throat.

This is my first foray into Nissan Diesels so could someone please let me know what year of manufacture my engine was and whether it is a 24 or a 12 volt system?

The engine number is SD33 119233 on the driver's side of the motor.
The head has the number 20825 on the passenger side towards the fan and,
The passenger side block has K5A cast into it.


Kind Regards
Lionel

[Yendor]

Sorry don't know to tell by the engine numbers.

If you have a look at the alternator and glow plugs it should be written on them.

[Cuppa]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_SD_engine

And I think you'll find it's 24v

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-MQ-Patrol-Starter-Motor-to-Suit-SD33-3-3L-6-Cylinder-Diesel-Engine-/131015386958

[threedogs]

Welcome to the Forum,
Jump in and enjoy

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

Thank you for the responses. I have taken the alternator off the engine. There is an identification plate however the paint and other layers have come off making it impossible to read.

Do these photographs look familiar to any MQ - MK Nissan Patrol owner and if so is it a 24 or a 12 volt system? Okay officially the "MK" designation does not exist...

Where would the voltage be written on the glow plugs?

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

Apart from the air cleaner unit can people see other stuff that is missing which is obvious to you for those more familiar with these engines than I am?

Hopefully I do not offend anyone's sensibilities by posting a photograph of Hunter when I first saw him in the flesh after winning it sight unseen on eBay. No one will probably write to me now :icon_driving:

This is pretty much what condition I bought the vehicle in a while ago. According to Wikipedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_SD_engine) the SD33 was used in the following vehicle as standard: UD 3400 series light truck, large forklifts, Marine applications, in International Scout offerings from 1976 to 1979, as well as the Jeep CJ-10/Cj-10A flightline tow vehicles from 1985 to 1986. The Scout-based Monteverdi Sahara was also offered with the SD33. Th SD33T is a turbo-charged 3.2 L (3,245 cc or 198.0 cu in) straight-six diesel engine that was used in 1980 for the power plant in 6,400 International Harvester Scout II's. So I would not be the only hybrid Nissan SD33 owner around which did not have the engine in a Nissan.

The Nissan SD33 Land Rover conversion is not that uncommon as the standard 2.6 litre six cylinder Land Rover made petrol motor was not the most economical motor on the road at its time. Okay putting in an SD33 was not as popular as putting in a Holden six cylinder petrol motor.

I just need to work out what parts the engine is missing apart from the Starter motor and air cleaner, find out whether it is a 24 volt or a 12 volt system so I can breath life back into the vehicle.

Kind Regards
Lionel

[happygu]

Hi Lionel,

I am not the expert on the SD33, as I never owned the Diesel, but I think it will be the 24V Version.

Check out the Wiki Page link
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_Patrol

under the MQ section, and I think that might be the best help you can get.

It looks like a fairly early version motor, which could also point towards the 24V system

Mic

[spoonie]

If you take out a glow plug and hit it with a wire buff, it should have 24v stamped on it. Or the land rover is a 12v system and your missing a starter motor, set the eng up as a 12v system.

Have fun lookes like a good project :-)

[Yendor]

It should be stamped in the hex part of the glow plug.

Going by the size of the stator in the alternator I think it's going to be 12 volts.

Your not going to want to run the Landy on 24 volts. I agree with spoonie, set it up for 12 volts.

[Lionelgee]

It should be stamped in the hex part of the glow plug.

Going by the size of the stator in the alternator I think it's going to be 12 volts.

Your not going to want to run the Landy on 24 volts. I agree with spoonie, set it up for 12 volts.

Hello Yendor,

Thank you for the information on how to ID the glow plug.

I think I have will be making a short trip out to the auto electrician and get the alternator checked and to get the voltage confirmed, also to see how good the alternator is as i have never had the engine or the electrics running. Hunter is a 100% unknown quantity.

Hopefully it is a 12 volt system. If it is a 24 volt I can live with this. I will just run a circuit to the starter motor and the glow plugs from the alternator and then have a 24 volt transformer down to 12 volts and run all the other Land Rover wiring from that point as per normal. That way I will not have issues with fuses or dash lights, fan, and the like.

Out of interest are the headlights on the early 24 volt MQ Patrols 24 volt bulbs? Anything including captive glow worms are brighter than the original Land Rover lights! So if it is a 24 volt system I may upgrade the headlights. Mr Lucas the maker of Land Rover electrics = the Prince of darkness.

One concern is if Hunter is a 24 volt system and I change the alternator and starter motor to volt components is their compatibility with the currently fitted flywheel's ring gear. Does anyone know if the ring gear is different on the flywheel between the 24 volt and the 12 volt powered starter motor? if there is a difference where would I source a different flywheel it sort of starts having a domino effect.

Or maybe the gear cog on the 24 volt can be transplanted on to the 12 volt starter motor so it will mesh with the ring gear on the flywheel without needing to work on the flywheel at all???

Hopefully, I will have the voltage sorted out by the auto electrician by the end of the week and I can plot my actions from there. Cross fingers for a 12 volt - it would be a little more complicated and I would have to rig up a system for the second battery that a 24 volt system requires. There are series/parallel switches available where the 24 volts are only running at start up and the 24 volt glow plugs can be exchanged for 12 volt ones. Gee it just gets more complicated...

I will let you know the auto electrician's findings ... not long after I know.

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

If you take out a glow plug and hit it with a wire buff, it should have 24v stamped on it. Or the land rover is a 12v system and your missing a starter motor, set the eng up as a 12v system.

Have fun lookes like a good project :-)

Hello Spoonie,

Yes it is a pretty well deserving project. The Nissan Diesel conversions have been done before and the engine and gear box of the Nissan SD33 is stronger than the Land Rover one of the era. Certainly more fuel economical than the 2.6 litre Land Rover motor. The chassis is on Hunter is immaculate too. The Series Land Rovers are just like adult sized Meccano sets.

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Yendor]

Hello Yendor,

Thank you for the information on how to ID the glow plug.

I think I have will be making a short trip out to the auto electrician and get the alternator checked and to get the voltage confirmed, also to see how good the alternator is as i have never had the engine or the electrics running. Hunter is a 100% unknown quantity.

Hopefully it is a 12 volt system. If it is a 24 volt I can live with this. I will just run a circuit to the starter motor and the glow plugs from the alternator and then have a 24 volt transformer down to 12 volts and run all the other Land Rover wiring from that point as per normal. That way I will not have issues with fuses or dash lights, fan, and the like.

Out of interest are the headlights on the early 24 volt MQ Patrols 24 volt bulbs? Anything including captive glow worms are brighter than the original Land Rover lights! So if it is a 24 volt system I may upgrade the headlights. Mr Lucas the maker of Land Rover electrics = the Prince of darkness.

One concern is if Hunter is a 24 volt system and I change the alternator and starter motor to volt components is their compatibility with the currently fitted flywheel's ring gear. Does anyone know if the ring gear is different on the flywheel between the 24 volt and the 12 volt powered starter motor? if there is a difference where would I source a different flywheel it sort of starts having a domino effect.

Or maybe the gear cog on the 24 volt can be transplanted on to the 12 volt starter motor so it will mesh with the ring gear on the flywheel without needing to work on the flywheel at all???

Hopefully, I will have the voltage sorted out by the auto electrician by the end of the week and I can plot my actions from there. Cross fingers for a 12 volt - it would be a little more complicated and I would have to rig up a system for the second battery that a 24 volt system requires. There are series/parallel switches available where the 24 volts are only running at start up and the 24 volt glow plugs can be exchanged for 12 volt ones. Gee it just gets more complicated...

I will let you know the auto electrician's findings ... not long after I know.

Kind Regards
Lionel

Hi Lionel,

Yeah an auto elec will be able to test it for you. You are also going to need a regulator if you use that alternator.

You really want to stay away from a split 12/24 volt system if you can help it. It's complicated to setup and can be expensive. You will need at least two batteries and something like a Redarc charge equaliser or a 24 volt to 12 volt reducer. Another option is 3 batteries and a second 12 volt alternator.

Fitting 24 volt headlights won't improve the light. Is all in the quality of the headlamp, the bulb and making sure the bulbs receive the correct voltage. Have a search on the forum regarding GQ headlight upgrades.

I don't know if there is a difference between the 12 volt and 24 volt starter motor (apart from the operating voltage)......I would be surprised is there was.

Personally, I would stay away from the series/parallel switch and use the redarc charge equaliser.

Sounds like you are in for some fun.......LOL

Lets us know how you go with it.

Cheers Rodney

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

I have just returned from the auto electrician and the verdict is is highly likely that the alternator is a 12 volt system. The only way to get a 100% definitive answer would be to split the alternator down and test from the inside. The bloke did "grab a spark" off it and would estimate that it is a 12 volt system. However the vacuum pump fitted to the back of the alternator is not working. The auto electrician suggests that the large shaft that goes through the centre of the alternator is broken and they would find a world full of evil things inside the alternator that would need replacing. I was advised to just get any alternator with a vacuum pump off the local wreckers and find a 12 volt starter motor. Oh and he wished me luck tracing and grafting the Nissan electrical system onto the Land Rover loom - nice hey! Why do I get the feeling that I have opened Pandora's box with this project :0)

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Yendor]

I'll guess you had a few beers by now........ hey it could of been worse, he could of thrown the alternator back at you and told you not to come back LOL

If you do get a second hand alternator get one with an internal regulator. Wiring up the engine on 12 volt is not going to be that difficult but it will take some time.

You need to ask yourself is it worth the time and expense...........what is a running series III worth to buy?

Have you checked the chassis and firewall for rust?, is the engine seized?

Cheers Rodney

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

I followed Spoonie's advice and took a couple of glow plugs out and had a very pleasant surprise. It said Japan .... 2H and drum roll 11 volts or as written "11 V"

I am very happy that it was in the lower end of the voltage range on MQ Patrols .:Yahoo!:

I went to one of the local wreckers and they actually had a SWB MQ come in so I had the first opportunity to pop the bonnet on a Nissan Patrol in real life! It was made in September 1980 and was definitely a 24 volt system. The alternator was a different shape to mine and I actually got to see what a starter motor looks like - not just the void where one goes; even if it was the wrong capacity. I also found out that there is a pre-cleaner that is connected to the air cleaner which sits on the throat of the inlet manifold. That means that there is something else I am missing.

Anyway, it was good to see under the bonnet and work out what things go where or maybe should go where. :icon_driving:

The fun continues!

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

I'll guess you had a few beers by now........ hey it could of been worse, he could of thrown the alternator back at you and told you not to come back LOL

If you do get a second hand alternator get one with an internal regulator. Wiring up the engine on 12 volt is not going to be that difficult but it will take some time.

You need to ask yourself is it worth the time and expense...........what is a running series III worth to buy?

Have you checked the chassis and firewall for rust?, is the engine seized?

Cheers Rodney


Hello Rodney,

The late previous owner was a mechanic and the chassis had been fully restored, the firewall is perfect and according to the owner's son the engine had been rebuilt just prior to semi-installation. It needs the seat box modified so that four wheel drive can be selected. At the moment the 4WD gear stick is inside the seat box! Then the clutch and brakes need to be connected and the wiring sorted out so everything works at the turn of the key.

Series 3 Land Rovers are beginning to range in value to reasonable to very optimistic. Road registered examples start around $2500 and go up to $8000. I think the $8000 are people being very optimistic for how much they can sell their vehicle for on eBay. I pretty much have the gear to do all the work on the vehicle myself to get it up to being registered. I have lots of Land Rover parts as well. Just shy on the Nissan parts electrical and air cleaner wise.

At the moment I have only spent $500 to buy the vehicle.

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Brisat]

If you have a look at the alternator gauge that will tell you what it is as it has the voltages written on the face of the meter, either 12,16,or 24,26

[Lionelgee]

If you have a look at the alternator gauge that will tell you what it is as it has the voltages written on the face of the meter, either 12,16,or 24,26

Hello Brisat,

Thank you for the reply. My vehicle did not come with a Nissan Patrol alternator gauge - it does not even have a Land Rover one fitted.

Kind Regards
Lionel

[NP99]

This is what keeps old cars alive. For me the project is too much effort. We'll done and good luck mate.

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

I had a win over the weekend. I have been trawling through eBay and low and behold up pops a 12 volt Starter Motor out of a Nissan MQ Patrol SD 33 diesel. It had a couple of people watching it. It also had a buy it now price too. Swoop it should be on its way from Victoria to Queensland tomorrow. The bloke did not have an alternator. Apparently I can buy any 12 volt alternator with a negative earth that also has a vacuum pump. The starter motor was not so interchangeable especially as my vehicle came with one made of air and sunshine. The previous owner did mention the fact that it was coming without a starter motor so they were honest about that and it did not come as an unpleasant surprise.

Kind Regards
Lionel

[happygu]

Hello All,

I had a win over the weekend. I have been trawling through eBay and low and behold up pops a 12 volt Starter Motor out of a Nissan MQ Patrol SD 33 diesel. It had a couple of people watching it. It also had a buy it now price too. Swoop it should be on its way from Victoria to Queensland tomorrow. The bloke did not have an alternator. Apparently I can buy any 12 volt alternator with a negative earth that also has a vacuum pump. The starter motor was not so interchangeable especially as my vehicle came with one made of air and sunshine. The previous owner did mention the fact that it was coming without a starter motor so they were honest about that and it did not come as an unpleasant surprise.

Kind Regards
Lionel


Lionel,

There are quite a few alternators for the SD33 in 12V on Ebay, with the Vacuum Pump on the rear, and these are up to $400.

Keep an eye out, and you may pick up another bargain......

Mic

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

Could someone please let me know what size and tensile strength and type of bolts are used to hold the SD33 starter motor in place?

I do not have a spare parts manual to be able to look up the correct information.

Since the vehicle did not come with a starter motor it strangely enough is lacking bolts that hold the starter motor on too!

Kind Regards
Lionel

[IceY60]

Hi there. Look for parts from International Scout. The scout came with SD33 engine and it was 12V At least I heard it from som guys here in Iceland. I was thinking for a while about putting an SD33 in my patrol. But this 24V thing did not charme me so much. So Some guys told me about the scout. I was supriced that the americans really used an disel engine from nissan in their trucks.

[Lionelgee]

Hi there. Look for parts from International Scout. The scout came with SD33 engine and it was 12V At least I heard it from som guys here in Iceland. I was thinking for a while about putting an SD33 in my patrol. But this 24V thing did not charme me so much. So Some guys told me about the scout. I was supriced that the americans really used an disel engine from nissan in their trucks.

Hello IceY60,

Wow my first message from Iceland! Thank you for the reply. International Scouts are pretty rare on the ground here in Australia now. The Jeep J10 also had the Nissan SD33 fitted as standard. No 24 volts does not seem user friendly when all the rest of my Land Rover system is 12 volts.

Thanks for the reply - by the way it is about 30 degrees Celsius and brewing for a storm here. Somewhat different from your weather at the moment I suppose :0)

Kind Regards
Lionel

[the ferret]

I have a 24 V starter, $100 you pay postage. If it's 24 and you want to go 12, you need to change the edic motor and they are not the same as 24V.
You can PM me for details, all the best.
The ferret.

[the ferret]

Ring gear is the same 24 or 12, 12 volt starter will fit, 24v starter will fit, edic motor is 12v on MK and 24v on MQ NA , MQ is lever, MK SD33T is cable operated, MQ SD33 has 3 positions on injector pump, whereas MKSD33T has 2.
Cheers, the ferret.

[Yendor]

Hello Rodney,

The late previous owner was a mechanic and the chassis had been fully restored, the firewall is perfect and according to the owner's son the engine had been rebuilt just prior to semi-installation. It needs the seat box modified so that four wheel drive can be selected. At the moment the 4WD gear stick is inside the seat box! Then the clutch and brakes need to be connected and the wiring sorted out so everything works at the turn of the key.

Series 3 Land Rovers are beginning to range in value to reasonable to very optimistic. Road registered examples start around $2500 and go up to $8000. I think the $8000 are people being very optimistic for how much they can sell their vehicle for on eBay. I pretty much have the gear to do all the work on the vehicle myself to get it up to being registered. I have lots of Land Rover parts as well. Just shy on the Nissan parts electrical and air cleaner wise.

At the moment I have only spent $500 to buy the vehicle.

Kind Regards
Lionel

Hi Lionel,

It sounds like you have done your homework and know what you are getting into.

Wiring the engine is not that hard........sorting out the rest of the L/R wiring now that's a different story.

I'm more then happy to help where I can.

Cheers Rodney

[Yendor]

Ring gear is the same 24 or 12, 12 volt starter will fit, 24v starter will fit, edic motor is 12v on MK and 24v on MQ NA , MQ is lever, MK SD33T is cable operated, MQ SD33 has 3 positions on injector pump, whereas MKSD33T has 2.
Cheers, the ferret.

I've been hoping you would see this thread.

If his engine does have an edic motor can he remove it and fit a manual start/stop cable?

[the ferret]

Hi Rodney, how's it going Mate?
I have an SD33 NA in the boat, it was 24V, is now 12V, and I have a cable with a 3 position Detent to operate the injector pump, pain, but better than the Edic motor when you are 50 ks out to sea!
I don't know how he would go registering the vehicle with a cable set up, I spose as long as it works it may pass.
I also have manual Glow.
The injector pumps for NA and Turbo are different, and as far as I know, the Edic is not swapable.
Keep up the good work there Rodney.
Cheers, the ferret.

[Lionelgee]

I have a 24 V starter, $100 you pay postage. If it's 24 and you want to go 12, you need to change the edic motor and they are not the same as 24V.
You can PM me for details, all the best.
The ferret.

Hello Ferret,

Thanks for the offer however I found out that the glow plugs have 11 volts written on them so it is a 12 volt system.

Do you know what size bolt holds the starter motor on? My vehicle did not come with the starter motor or the bolts.

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello Ferret,

Thank you for the information about the ring gear - much appreciated! Now all I have to do is work out what an edic motor is? :0) Hmmm more research to do!

Kind Regards
Lionel

Kind

[Yendor]

Hi Rodney, how's it going Mate?
I have an SD33 NA in the boat, it was 24V, is now 12V, and I have a cable with a 3 position Detent to operate the injector pump, pain, but better than the Edic motor when you are 50 ks out to sea!
I don't know how he would go registering the vehicle with a cable set up, I spose as long as it works it may pass.
I also have manual Glow.
The injector pumps for NA and Turbo are different, and as far as I know, the Edic is not swapable.
Keep up the good work there Rodney.
Cheers, the ferret.

Hey Rod, I'm not doing too bad. I try to keep the blinders on as much as possible these days.

Your boat setup was the first thing that I thought of when I first read this thread.

Good to see you are still hanging around.

[Lionelgee]

Hi Lionel,

It sounds like you have done your homework and know what you are getting into.

Wiring the engine is not that hard........sorting out the rest of the L/R wiring now that's a different story.

I'm more then happy to help where I can.

Cheers Rodney


Hello Rodney,

The photograph in the Gregory's Manual looks like it has a cylinder under the injector pump (Page 201) and it labels it as a "control motor". Is this the edic thingo by a different name?

From my inspections of the engine I think I might have dodged a bullet because it looks like the remnants of a cable bracket which does slide. It matches what Ferret describes as a cable control :smiley_thumbs_up:

All the stuff they describe on the page mentions the words "Late Model" so maybe 1986-87 fingers crossed I might have an 1984-85 model engine before things got too complicated.

Thank you for the offer of help too, Rodney I will have a bit of an explore and trial and error first as this is the best way to learn stuff.

Would you know the length, size and thread of the starter motor where it bolts to the bell housing? My vehicle did not come with a starter motor or the bolts to hold it on - so I have no idea of what type of bolts it needs.

Kind Regards
Lionel

[the ferret]

Nah, I'm here fer good Rodney,
I do get pleasure out of helping others tho, as I'm sure you do.
Cheers, the ferret.

[Yendor]

Hello Rodney,

The photograph in the Gregory's Manual looks like it has a cylinder under the injector pump (Page 201) and it labels it as a "control motor". Is this the edic thingo by a different name?

From my inspections of the engine I think I might have dodged a bullet because it looks like the remnants of a cable bracket which does slide. It matches what Ferret describes as a cable control :smiley_thumbs_up:

All the stuff they describe on the page mentions the words "Late Model" so maybe 1986-87 fingers crossed I might have an 1984-85 model engine before things got too complicated.

Thank you for the offer of help too, Rodney I will have a bit of an explore and trial and error first as this is the best way to learn stuff.

Would you know the length, size and thread of the starter motor where it bolts to the bell housing? My vehicle did not come with a starter motor or the bolts to hold it on - so I have no idea of what type of bolts it needs.

Kind Regards
Lionel

Hi Lionel,

I'm not sure what the Gregory's manual call it, but "control motor" sounds feasible. You are better off installing a manual cable if possible.

Where abouts in QLD are you?

Sorry, have no idea regarding the bolt size.

Cheers

Rodney

[Lionelgee]

Hello Rodney,

Thank you for the reply. I am in Bundy. I will take a couple of close up photographs so other more knowledgeable people might be able to steer me in the right direction. Looking at Ferret's email it could even be a lever/slide operation.

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello Ferret,

I found this link on youTube which shows what it calls an Edic motor being tested. It looks like a rotating arm to move a lever through a ball joint connection. Is this what you mean by an Edic motor?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bNMo8-pQxmk Accessed 30th October 2013.

Kind Regards
Lionel

[the ferret]

Yeppum, that's the Edic motor, SD 33 non turbo 24V, darn!!
When you turn the key on, the motor moves a rod at the injector pump, firstly to "start" position then to "run", when you turn key off, it moves the lever to "stop"
Cheers, the ferret.

[Yendor]

Hello Rodney,

Thank you for the reply. I am in Bundy. I will take a couple of close up photographs so other more knowledgeable people might be able to steer me in the right direction. Looking at Ferret's email it could even be a lever/slide operation.

Kind Regards
Lionel

Hi Lionel,

I can help you regarding the wiring side..........hell, I've even been involved with two complete L/R rebuilds.

Mr Ferret is the best person to speak to regarding the mechanical side, trust me...... if he has taken the time to send you an email it's important.

Cheers Rodney

[Lionelgee]

Yeppum, that's the Edic motor, SD 33 non turbo 24V, darn!!
When you turn the key on, the motor moves a rod at the injector pump, firstly to "start" position then to "run", when you turn key off, it moves the lever to "stop"
Cheers, the ferret.


Hello Mr Ferret!

Thank You for the reply.

Well how freaky is that all I typed into a search engine was "Edic Motor" with absolutely no mention of Nissan SD33 at all. The bloke who posted it up does not even identify it as anything other than an edic motor!

It looked like a similar thing to a servo motor unit in remote controlled cars which are used for steering.

Kind Regards
Lionel

[the ferret]

The thing is Lionel, does yours have a rod or a cable?, rod is 24 and cable is 12v, but if it's 12v it would most likely have a turbo!
Cheers the ferret.

[Lionelgee]

Hello The Ferret, Rodney and Others,

Here are some photographs showing some more detail of what I have got to work with. Can anyone let me know if I am missing any parts. The first photograph is of either the remnants of a slide or a cable control?

Is there anything I am missing off the throttle control on the inlet manifold - apart from the air cleaner & pre-cleaner?

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello The Ferret,

Sadly there is no sign of a turbo ever being fitted. The previous owner was a mechanic so he may have already done a complete 24 volt to 12 volt conversion. Since the vehicle was a deceased estate it is a bit hard to contact the previous owner to ask what work was done on the motor.

Oh buying the vehicle was one of those sight unseen spur of the moment eBay purchases. You know the type where you put on a single bid and hope someone comes along and outbids you - well no one did. Perhaps they were more clever than I was!

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

While I was taking photographs I thought I would take some of how the seat box has to be modified so the smaller 4WD/2WD transfer case lever (?) has to be freed from the current seating arrangement. Is that tube on top of the gearbox meant to look like it has been cut off as standard or is something else missing from it?

All the fun of the fair hey!

My goal is to get the vehicle able to move around my paddock under its own propulsion while being able to change gears. Other things like brakes, gauges and other road worthy concerns are all minor elements at the moment. At this stage the only wiring I will do is to be able to get the engine started and be able to turn it off.

My main objective is to have the motor and gearbox splashing oil around internally so things do not deteriorate any further. Plus the clutch working properly. Hopefully I am not too late to do this. I am not sure when the engine last turned over so it will be interesting.

Rodney since you have Land Rover experience do you think that the clutch master cylinder of a Land Rove Series 3 would be sufficient in capacity to handle the Nissan SD33 clutch? It looks like the previous owner was going to use it - maybe he never got around to converting it over? Who knows???

Kind Regards
Lionel

[the ferret]

Injector pump control rod missing, Dash pot (vacuum controlled) missing from bracket next to inlet.
I would be hoping the inside of injector pump is better than the outside, and that as it has a metal oil filler cap( Not plastic ) this motor seems to have come from a big wooden ship that a bloke named Noah built to transport animals quite some time ago!!.
Cheers, the ferret.

EDIT, unless this thing was kept in a shed, I would be pulling the drain plugs to check for water, any water in the box and it's all over yellow rover.

[Lionelgee]

Hello The Ferret,

Thank you for the reply. I found another link to the Edic Motor and this time the bloke gives a commentary of the positions.

I did not know that Noah was so advanced. I thought he only had paddles or maybe a treadmill the animals used to turn a propeller!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ApntvoWVh_M

Apart from being the same vintage as Noah do you have any idea of the year of manufacture of the motor from what the photographs show? I sent an email to Nissan Australia and contacted some dealers with the engine number and they have not got back to me as yet.

Kind Regards
Lionel

[the ferret]

Hi Lionel,
From what I can see, this is a very early SD33 NA., about 1980, the gearbox is not Nissan as is the transfer, the clutch could be anything, I'd say the Rover master cylinder would do the job with a Nissan slave.
By the looks I doubt if the fuel primer will work, never know tho.
The oil filler cap seems to be from a L28 or P40 petrol motor.
Does the motor turn by hand?
As you say, the history of the motor and what was done to it is lost forever, I wish my Ancestors from 1645 had made notes, it would help so much with my tree lol.
Carry on regardless, ( rewardless )
Cheers, the ferret.

[Lionelgee]

Hello The Ferret,

Going back to 1645 with your Family Tree is a very good effort.

As far as priming goes I have learnt from the benefit of other people's wisdom. I have another Land Rover which is a pretty much 100% stock standard Long Wheel Base Series 3 ute. It is powered by a 2.25 litre four cylinder diesel 3. The previous owner installed dual fuel tanks and he fitted an electric fuel pump to work in between them. Fortunately for me, this also doubles up as a priming pump. So I did not have to use the old hand primer when I accidentally ran one tank dry trying to work out the positioning of the tank switch lever. I just have to turn the pump on, open up the bleed screw and once it has a nice stream of diesel tighten the bleed screw up, Then I just move onto bleed screw number two.

I plan on doing a similar installation on the Nissan. Well I hope a similar installation on the Nissan will work? Cross fingers.

I have not tried to turn the motor over yet - the viscous fan does not allow a direct turn on to the motor by hand and the alternator pulley belts were disconnected to try in turn through the belts. I will be optimistic and I will believe what the previous owner's son said. That the motor was overhaul prior to his dad getting sick. Okay call me gullible.

Kind Regards
Lionel

[happygu]

A few bits and pieces and you will be up and running in no time at all .....

[the ferret]

You can use a spanner/ socket on the Harmonic bolt to turn it.
After bleeding the injector pump, you need to bleed an injector as well (two spanners)
I would have thought that if it was originally a petrol, that a 5 speed Nissan box would be fitted, as the SD 33 will be screaming at 80ks.
With regard to the transfer lever, you should be able to make up something similar to the Nissan remote operation.
Once you have bled the fuel, fitted starter etc, push the fuel control lever forward (start), then back to centre (run), then try and start it, to stop motor, pull the lever rearwards (stop)
Cheers, the ferret.

Yep, 1645, I think my GGGGGGrandfather worked in a Nissan factory making SD33s.

[Lionelgee]

Hello The Ferret,

Thank you for all your information. Now that I have been looking at it the adaptor plate between the engine and gear box is really obvious.

I have taken some more photographs of the gear box and of the numbers on the top of the gear box.

Has anyone heard of a mob called MF Conversions? There is what looks like a Victorian phone number - well maybe a phone number and then below it a product code MFC 021

Yes I did try a couple of different versions of the telephone number just in case - they were all disconnected or not really phone numbers.

Kind Regards
Lionel

[the ferret]

Hi Lionel,
I think that's the original adaptor/spacer, I would be keeping an eye out for a 5 speed MK gearbox and clutch.
If the Rover diffs are off set as the MQ/MK, this would be a better option, however, Land rover diffs are known to snap axles.
Cheers, the ferret.

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

I had a win. I thought outside the box and reckoned that there cannot be that many adaptor plate manufacturers in Australia so I contacted Dellow Conversions. Within half an hour of my email being sent Dellow's were kind enough to send back a reply.

"MF Conv" stood for Mark French Conversions who are now known as Mark's 4WD Adaptors.

I have sent them my series of photographs with the details such as the serial numbers.

Cross fingers I might be able to find out the parts, models and manufacturers of my Nissan SD33 Frankenstein conversion!

I do contract research for a crust and I am about to finish two contracts. It maybe a while before the next contract comes up. This means I will have to make do with what is there and to get the vehicle started budget wise. I will need to buy a starter motor (on its way) and an alternator. Oh and swap over one of my spare Land Rover clutch master cylinders and find out what breed of clutch slave cylinder it is.

Hopefully Mark's 4WD Adaptors will soon be able to fill me in on a couple of finer points. Such as who were the donors.

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello The Ferret,

Were the Air Cleaner and the Pre-cleaner standard across the MQ Patrol range?

As in does one size fit all for the SD33?

Or are there differences between 24 volt, 12 volt turbo and non-turbo?

Kind Regards
Lionel

[the ferret]

Hi Lionel,
I think they are all the same through the SD33s, you should find all the stuff you need for the motor at the Wreckers or Ebay.
Cheers, the ferret.

[wildgu6]

Rod and Rodney, to 2 Roddys lol.
Two of the best, good work guys helpin out Lionel, Well done.

Hi-jack
Love reading both of your knowledge, haha if that makes sense (I love scotch)
You both helped me out plenty in the past by reading your posts. Thanks guys, and great to see you still here deflator Rod, hope you got the shiz sorted.


Sent from my iPhone using Motorculture mobile app

[the ferret]

Rod and Rodney, to 2 Roddys lol.
Two of the best, good work guys helpin out Lionel, Well done.

Hi-jack
Love reading both of your knowledge, haha if that makes sense (I love scotch)
You both helped me out plenty in the past by reading your posts. Thanks guys, and great to see you still here deflator Rod, hope you got the shiz sorted.


Sent from my iPhone using Motorculture mobile app

No Worries Mate, that's what it's all about, it also helps take my mind off those who shouldn't be breathing (long story)
I wonder if Lionel is aware of the patrol billing system for Questions answered, Auto Electricians and Mechanical Fitter /Turners don't come cheap!!
Cheers, the ferret.

[Lionelgee]

Hello The Ferret,

There is only one Nissan MQ at the wreckers in town and it is a SWB MQ 1980 SD33 24 volt which they had a bloke in the yard who was thinking about buying it as a whole vehicle earlier in the week. I am going back there tomorrow to see what became of it.

If it is still there I know who will be walking out with an arm load of parts! No not the 24 volt stuff though - life is complicated enough with Frankenstein Land Rover Nissan as things stand now. The bloke at the wreckers did telephone around to the other wreckers in town and they drew a blank. So Bundaberg is a bit limited MQ Patrol SD33 wise at the wreckers.

There is a bloke from a wrecker in North Queensland who said he will ring me back. That was last Friday though.... Same thing with a wrecker in Victoria or was it South Australia...

Kind Regards
Lionel

[the ferret]

Hey Lionel,
How much does he want for the whole shebang, get it fer $500 and ya got the lot, I'd leave it 24v, the turbo injector pump is different as with the Edic.
Stick the diffs under the rover and go 35 tyres.
Cheers, the ferret. Question value $0.43c

[Lionelgee]

$1400 with rust in the chassis thrown in for free. Non turbo.

[the ferret]

A bit rich Lionel, there are others around if you have time to wait, up to you tho, and if the motor is good and the running gear ok, you could swap n mix, at least with the Rover you won't get body rust!!
Bound to be members on here with the things you need.
Cheers, the ferret.

[Lionelgee]

Hello The Ferret,

Yes I thought the price was a bit steep too. I am not in a great hurry so I will see what turns up when the time is right for it.

Thanks for all the information. I will let you know what I hear back from the adaptor conversion place.

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

I called in at the local wreckers and the SWB MQ was still there. No one had bought it as a whole unit. This meant I was first in.

I now have an air cleaner unit and the pre-cleaner unit. I should have also got the starter motor bolts except I did not expect the vehicle to be still there so I had not brought my tools. I had to borrow some of the wreckers tools to get the air cleaner parts off. Nissan sure as hell did not want them falling off did they! I also grabbed some parts to do with the accelerator mechanism that is mounted to the throat of the inlet manifold. Namely the bits that are not sitting off the side of my inlet manifold!

The 12 volt starter motor arrived in the post from the interstate wrecker today as well. Now I just have the alternator to go.

Postage or freight on the air component stuff would have been massive since they are not the lightest or smallest of items. Plus I got to see what else was hanging off the sides of the inlet manifold and all the bolts, nuts and washers too.

I am a lot further advanced than what I was less than five days ago. Thank you for all your assistance to date especially The Ferret. Rodney, Yendor and Spoonie. Yendor the tip about the voltage being written on the glow plug was a really good one because it let me know what capacity of voltage I was after.

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

I received a tip today that the gearbox and clutch in my Land Rover Series 3 could be that of a Nissan Cabstar. If my engine is from the Ark it would have been fitted to only a 4 speed gearbox and the conversion to a Cabstar would have made it a 5 speed box.

Can anyone go back a couple of pages and look at the photographs I posted earlier to see if it looks like a Cabstar gearbox to you?

Have a good weekend!

Kind Regards
Lionel

[the ferret]

Hi Lionel,
The motor is Nissan SD33NA, the adaptor is Nissan, the clutch....dunno.. the box, well it looks unlike any Nissan box I know of, I am guessing it's a Landrover box of some sort.
Cheers, the ferret

[Lionelgee]

Hello The Ferret,

The rear end of the gearbox is a Land Rover Transfer Case. The rest of the main part of the box from the adaptor plate to the transfer case is not a Land Rover one - that would be too simple. I just rang the late owner's son and he says it is a type of Nissan gearbox which came off a cane farm somewhere near Mackay. The engine, adapter and gearbox came down from there and was fitted to a local vehicle, well partly fitted.

I have posted some more photographs of the clutch slave cylinder and of symbol and code number 60212. The last photo is of a bloke's Nissan Cabstar gearbox and it has the number 71129 on it and it was mentioned that this is a Nissan Cabstar code. In both my photograph and the other bloke's photo the top symbol looks the same as in my gearbox - unfortunately my one has a different number ... of course - that would have been just too easy!

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Parker1112]

Well i woud like to say here that if you take out a shine connect and hit it with a cable fan it should have 24v imprinted on it or the area rover is a 12v program and your losing a beginner engine, set the eng up as a 12v program..





Click Here (http://www.expertbuildergoldcoast.com.au/)

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

I took the slave cylinder off in the hope that it might have some conclusive identifying marks like a brand symbol or a part number - yeah right! What it did have marked was a surprise 7/8 raised cast on the flat surface near the bleed screw and the inlet pipe.

That got me scratching my head a bit. What an Imperial measurement fitting be doing on a Japanese - well I assumed so manufactured part Metric part???

So I had a hunch. I went to my parts box and pulled the new slave cylinder out that I was going to fit to my stock standard Land Rover Series 3 with a 2.25 litre diesel. I put it next to the slave cylinder I just pulled off the Nissan and bugger me! It is a Land Rover part. It is just fitted on the vehicle with a very heavy steel fabricated bracket fitted to the bell housing.

So a Nissan SD33 NA engine a MF Conv MFC 021 adaptor,
a Land Rover Series clutch slave cylinder

The main gearbox has the remnants of Nissan blue paint on its sides. A symbol of what some people claim is Nissan mark.

finished with a Land Rover transfer case on the end.

I wonder if the Land Rover slave cylinder means that a Land Rover clutch and pressure plate is fitted?

Kind Regards
Lionel