GQ keeping cool when towing

[coolummatt]

Hi all. We recently bought a camper trailer and just got back from our first trip away at wivenhoe dam. I gotta say the TB42e auto seems to do alright towing especially with the power button on. My only concern is the temperature seems to sit a little high, over half on flat roads and up to or just over 3 quarter on hills. Is this normal and is there anying I can do to keep it cool. Thinking of a longer drive at Christmas and theres going to be some big long hills on the way. Thanks all for your help

[rkinsey]

Gday Coolummatt,

There are quite a few threads on this issue and its an issue that affects 4WD's of every make.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/search-results.html?cx=partner-pub-3013365475430909%3A8470100594&cof=FORID%3A10&query=overheating&submit.x=-1525&submit.y=-174

The simple things to do is flush your cooling system (Backflush as well) to remove any potential foreign material that can clog up your radiator and water pump. Check your thermostat to make sure its working properly. Drop it in a glass off boiling water to see if it opens and how fast it opens. If its too slow or doesnt open at all, replace it.

Check that your radiator cap is ok. If it isnt sealing properly then the system isnt pressurizing correctly and therefore your system isnt regulating the operating temperature correctly.

Check that your belts are tensioned correctly. One of these will run the water pump. If it isnt pumping you aint cooling!

Other things to consider are large capacity aluminium after market radiators, high flow thermostats and water pumps and inline cooling system filters (to trap any nasties)

Cheers,

Rob

[NP99]

Gday Coolummatt,

There are quite a few threads on this issue and its an issue that affects 4WD's of every make.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/search-results.html?cx=partner-pub-3013365475430909%3A8470100594&cof=FORID%3A10&query=overheating&submit.x=-1525&submit.y=-174

The simple things to do is flush your cooling system (Backflush as well) to remove any potential foreign material that can clog up your radiator and water pump. Check your thermostat to make sure its working properly. Drop it in a glass off boiling water to see if it opens and how fast it opens. If its too slow or doesnt open at all, replace it.

Check that your radiator cap is ok. If it isnt sealing properly then the system isnt pressurizing correctly and therefore your system isnt regulating the operating temperature correctly.

Check that your belts are tensioned correctly. One of these will run the water pump. If it isnt pumping you aint cooling!

Other things to consider are large capacity aluminium after market radiators, high flow thermostats and water pumps and inline cooling system filters (to trap any nasties)

Cheers,

Rob

All good advice, for the small cost, I'd replace the thermostat and rad cap anyway if they show signs of age.

[NissanGQ4.2]

Another thing you should keep an eye on / upgrade is your auto gearbox is your towing a fair bit with a loaded camper trailer

[NP99]

Another thing you should keep an eye on / upgrade is your auto gearbox is your towing a fair bit with a loaded camper trailer

Good idea......an oil cooler

[rkinsey]

The one thing I forgot to mention was that you dont want to run it too cool. I mean that there is an optimum operating temperature that the engine management system is programmed for and adjusts the air fuel mixture, amongst other things, appropriately.

If the engine is running cold, the ECU will rich the mixture. So if your car is running cold all the time, it wont be running efficiently and your wont have the power it should either.

This is for the newer (1998 ->) petrol vehicles. Dont know if its the same for diesel engines.

Cheers

Rob

[coolummatt]

Thanks for the advice everyone. The only thing that confuses me is it runs at about a quater in normal conditions. The radiator im running looks fairly old so I may look into replacing it with a larger one and also a trans cooler.

Would you suggest a cooler second cooler or just a new one and bypass the radiator all together.

[NissanGQ4.2]

Thanks for the advice everyone. The only thing that confuses me is it runs at about a quater in normal conditions. The radiator im running looks fairly old so I may look into replacing it with a larger one and also a trans cooler.

Would you suggest a cooler second cooler or just a new one and bypass the radiator all together.

I would actually suggest to first get an aftermarket temp gauge with a digital read out, the factory one doesn't tell you anything useful. Then take it to a radiator shop and get them to give it a once over, get it rodded if need be. They will soon let you know if its in need of replacement.

I would also get a temp gauge fitted to the gearbox

I wouldn't worry about the cooler until you know what the gearbox and water temps are running at when towing the camper

[coolummatt]

The radiator is a secondhand one I put in it a few weeks ago. Before I put it in I had it checked and pressure tested.

[NissanGQ4.2]

The radiator is a secondhand one I put in it a few weeks ago. Before I put it in I had it checked and pressure tested.

Personally I would invest in a water temp gauge before doing anything so you know where its sitting normally and when towing.

[coolummatt]

Personally I would invest in a water temp gauge before doing anything so you know where its sitting normally and when towing.

Can I just run that off the standard sensor?

[Mickus]

I had the same issue with my GQ 4.2, I put a new radiator in new hoses but found it still sat around that temperature.

I was towing a camper trailer around OZ at the time, found I just had to sit on around 90kmh which seemed to help as I wasn't in a hurry anyway :)

[coolummatt]

I had the same issue with my GQ 4.2, I put a new radiator in new hoses but found it still sat around that temperature.

I was towing a camper trailer around OZ at the time, found I just had to sit on around 90kmh which seemed to help as I wasn't in a hurry anyway :)

Did you ever sort it out? I have been told to change the thermostat. So im going to try that first.

[Robo]

You can add an relay and connect independent power wire to aircon fan.
so you can then turn on aircon fan without the aircon actually working.
it'll boosts air flow if its getting as little hot under the collar.
but this is an extra tool.
x2 all the previous advise first bro

[coolummatt]

Ok got an update. I have changed the thermostat and now when I drive not towing the temperature fluctuates from 3 quater to just over half on the hills and then drops back down quickly. Im really lost with this now.

[TuffTD42]

It's just a Nissan thing, well for the diesels I thought anyhow. Mines a 4.2 diesel. Big boost, comp pump. Prior to this set up it was stock bar snorkel. Ran good mostly. Towing box trailer with dog & dog kennel in it with head wind in stinking hot heat, it sat on or just under the last line before the top one on the gauge. Drove it like that for 3hrs. Now anything over 100klm depending on throttle position, it sits any where from half to 3/4. I just drive it. Been like it for years. I also changed Radiator,hoses,thermostat,water pump(genuine),fan clutch (genuine) & so on & so on to no avail. Waste of money. Do the basic stuff & leave it at that. as long as it doesn't boil, it'll live. I also had a GU TD42 stock as. Towing up the rocks just out of Bathurst, it boiled every time. Had to pull over for 5-10mins & let it cool then carry on. done all the sh!t to it also to no avail. Got rid of it. Now I'm looking at dropping a LS1/2 in the GQ to 1. get rid of the heating issues 2. hopefully make 300-350kw.

Check the Fan hub, might have sh!t itself,you could replace & might not make any differenc or may help. Check the basic stuff, fix if needed &/or if all good, you'll just have to drive it accordingly.

[we11fd]

Hey mate my tb42e used to get up too about 3/4 on the factory temp gauge when out 4wding, I replaced the fan Hub, thermostat and water pump for under $200 and it didn't get hot again