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dads tractor
19th July 2013, 06:33 PM
Has anyone upgraded their shed lights to led as these old eyes are starting to fade for fine work .

Shed size 8mts wide X12mts long with 8 banks of double fluros

MudRunnerTD
19th July 2013, 06:38 PM
Change globes mate. You can get a brighter WHITE light that will make a massive difference.

Also consider dropping your lights down a little on chains.

Consider local light in the places you want it most.

Winnie
19th July 2013, 06:58 PM
Daz those whiter tubes are an illusion. It's only the colour that looks brighter but you've still got the same amount of light. They are just a 6500 kelvin colour.

LED tubes are not worth it... Not yet anyway. 45 bucks for a quality light which is 20W (so not a huge power saving) and they are not as bright as a 36W fluoro.

Fluoro tubes are still probably the best way to light a shed but your tubes might be old so will not have the output they once did. First of all I would change the tubes and the 865 tubes are the best for sheds, you might notice a difference and be happy with it.

Other options are to put up a mercury vapour hi bay (around $100) or two which are 400W each but bright as all hell! This is what they use in big warehouses.

Or if it's just a work bench or something similar you want to light up I would not use an LED flood light but put an extra double fluoro batten just above it.

Got sick of Motorculture so gone back to Tappa

mudnut
19th July 2013, 07:01 PM
I have started to paint the inside of my shed in light colour, or white, left over paint. It has made so much difference, I will do the workshop next.

MudRunnerTD
19th July 2013, 07:10 PM
Daz those whiter tubes are an illusion. It's only the colour that looks brighter but you've still got the same amount of light. They are just a 6500 kelvin colour.

LED tubes are not worth it... Not yet anyway. 45 bucks for a quality light which is 20W (so not a huge power saving) and they are not as bright as a 36W fluoro.

Fluoro tubes are still probably the best way to light a shed but your tubes might be old so will not have the output they once did. First of all I would change the tubes and the 865 tubes are the best for sheds, you might notice a difference and be happy with it.

Other options are to put up a mercury vapour hi bay or two which are 400W each but bright as all hell!

Or if it's just a work bench or something similar you want to light up I would not use an LED flood light but put an extra double fluoro batten just above it.

Got sick of Motorculture so gone back to Tappa


Hi Winnie,

Yeah what I meant was to fit "fresh" tubes and that would make a huge difference, while there change colour to bright white but the fresh tubes is the biggest upgrade for sure.

Also as we both said some Local Light over his project zones is the real winner.


Mudnuts point about painting the inside of the shed white is a winner although every shed I have had has had a light colour on the inside colourbond anyways ;)

liftlid
19th July 2013, 07:32 PM
We have removed 4 old tubes from fittings in schools and installed 2 new tubes and doubled the Lumen output in the rooms, the next lights that will be going up in my shed are led 40 w panel lights been installing these as recently as they draw half the current and will pay for themselves

Winnie
19th July 2013, 07:42 PM
What brand are those panels? We have been selling the Pierlite ones with great feedback.

Got sick of Motorculture so gone back to Tappa

Winnie
19th July 2013, 07:43 PM
I still don't recommend LED for shed lighting. It's a very direct light and you get too many shadows. Even with the LED panels with the opaque diffusers.

Got sick of Motorculture so gone back to Tappa

Clunk
19th July 2013, 08:49 PM
As has been said, just replace your old one but replace them with daylight tubes. It's a more natural colour of the spectrum. Cool white is too blue and warm white is too yellow.

MC..... It isn't Tappa but it's all I've got!!!!!!! :'(

Winnie
19th July 2013, 08:58 PM
Cool white is more yellow than daylight... for a shed daylight tubes are what you want for sure. I sent you a PM dads tractor I will be able to get you some good pricing on whatever you decide to go with.

Clunk
19th July 2013, 10:14 PM
Thanks for the info Pooh but I was only going by my experience of having both WW and CW spirals in the house. The ww's being too yellow and cw's too blue. Use DL tubes at work and find them great for giving the most natural colour light. We also use the LED tubes with no issues in the office but as you state , may not be suitable for the shed application

MC..... It isn't Tappa but it's all I've got!!!!!!! :'(

dads tractor
19th July 2013, 10:15 PM
Thanks for the input guys maybe should just go to bed a bit ealier have replaced the tubes and have twin bank flouros over work bench. My main drama is seeing scribe marks when welding and measuring to the mm so maybe I should accept I'm not 21 anymore.

Winnie
19th July 2013, 11:04 PM
Thanks for the info Pooh but I was only going by my experience of having both WW and CW spirals in the house. The ww's being too yellow and cw's too blue. Use DL tubes at work and find them great for giving the most natural colour light. We also use the LED tubes with no issues in the office but as you state , may not be suitable for the shed application

MC..... It isn't Tappa but it's all I've got!!!!!!! :'(

We have tried just about every name brand LED tube going around in our office at work. None are as good as a regular 36W fluoro tube.
Dads tractor, consider a high bay light.


Doin alright on MotorCulture

Clunk
19th July 2013, 11:20 PM
Another twin bank or a few 100W incandescent globes will do. High bays are a bit extreme IMO

MC..... It isn't Tappa but it's all I've got!!!!!!! :'(

Winnie
19th July 2013, 11:24 PM
You can't even get incandescents any more. You can get halogen replacements but they are such an inefficient way to light. Hi bay is not too extreme, they're not expensive (around $100) and should give him what he wants. Would only need one in the centre and it would be awesome.


Doin alright on MotorCulture

Clunk
19th July 2013, 11:35 PM
You can't even get incandescents any more. You can get halogen replacements but they are such an inefficient way to light. Hi bay is not too extreme, they're not expensive (around $100) and should give him what he wants. Would only need one in the centre and it would be awesome.


Doin alright on MotorCulture

You can Winnie, they're called reinforced construction and have a silicone coating, generally used in food prep situations because the silicone holds the glass in place in times of globes exploding ....... But not to worry because as usual I know nothing

MC..... It isn't Tappa but it's all I've got!!!!!!! :'(

Clunk
19th July 2013, 11:46 PM
Sorry mislead you a little there not all RC incandescent globes are silicone coated but they are all built to withstand mechanical vibration. So tend to be used in freezers and motor rooms.

MC..... It isn't Tappa but it's all I've got!!!!!!! :'(

Winnie
19th July 2013, 11:51 PM
Okay have not seen those before,but at 100W you might as well put in another double fluoro batten and have twice as much light.


Doin alright on MotorCulture

threedogs
20th July 2013, 06:55 PM
Depending where you are, have you thought about 12v solar panels.
At the TLCCV they have a huge shed and lit very well using versa lights
supported by chains and all lighting was on via a timer.
Pay for itself in no time

liftlid
28th July 2013, 10:35 AM
32277
Had this highbay in my shed for a while and it gives great light, but I've been having problems with my auto darken welding helmet, unplugged the light as the reflection off my new benchtop stopped the helmet working. Works great now. Anybody had the samething

threedogs
28th July 2013, 11:21 AM
I always thought RC was for "rough construction",
meaning filament not as prone to breaking from vibration?
could be wrong ages since I was in that game

@ Liftlid spray benchtop matt black

Clunk
28th July 2013, 12:16 PM
I always thought RC was for "rough construction",
meaning filament not as prone to breaking from vibration?
could be wrong ages since I was in that game

@ Liftlid spray benchtop matt black

Same same TD....... Google it

Don't slap it TAP it!!!!!!!

liftlid
28th July 2013, 01:00 PM
I always thought RC was for "rough construction",
meaning filament not as prone to breaking from vibration?
could be wrong ages since I was in that game

@ Liftlid spray benchtop matt black

Old bench top was black and it still did it, thought helmet was buggered for a while ta