Up for a new clutch kit, opinions please.

[Robo]

Ok so the standard maverick TB42s clutch has seen better days and needs to retire.
Looking for daily driver and towing mainly, so dont need $600+ figures.
Seeing as I had trouble finding info, hows about posting comparison here on all different types
std, hy-dty , top of range etc.
Also what swaps over from TB and TD etc for all to see in one place.
No brand bashing (unless there are money wasters out there), just honest details.
Thanks :icon_driving:

[YNOT]

Not many people have tried several clutches in the same vehicle under the same conditions, which makes it a bit difficult to do clutch comparisons because it comes down to personal opinions which have been formed in different vehicles under different conditions.

I would suggest talking to your local clutch supplier to discuss options. Some suppliers can modify a standard clutch to increase it's clamping pressure, a cheaper heavy duty alternative to the expensive top line clutches which may be over kill in your application.

T.

[mudski]

I would suggest to get the best for what you can afford. Or get the prices from most expensive in price and performance to least and work from there. I would only say either the Clutch Industries 4Terrian kit on the Safari Tuff Clutch both those two are on top of that list.

[Rustyboner81]

Terrain tamer heavy duty, ive had it in for about 12,000k now. Alot of hard km's smelt it burning only once or twice and that was all my doing.

It was pricey though.
If your in WA then perth brake parts near welshpool will help you out with a cheaper one

Sent from my GT-I9305T using Motorculture mobile app

[mudski]

I would only buy cheap if I was going to sell the car. A cheap clutch won't last no way near as long as a better one. Removing and refitting a gearbox is not fun. Especially on a garage floor.

[Robo]

Thanks for input so far fellers
I am after input EG,
My -------- brand hd feels the same as std.
another post claiming the extra h-dty ------- only feels slightly harder to operate pedal, or
sunbury h-dty like the one you see on ebay work a treat feel great and easy on the pedal.
or stay away from the diesel clutch as a h-duty option it'll blow the petrol master cyl every other week
or dont touch X-------- brand they are cheap chinnese stuff .

I don't want to hear from some shop how his "highest profit" clutch works well and later my wifes starts clipping me around the ears for a clutch that's to heavy for her to pedal or started to slip first time she hooked up 2 tonne float if ya follow, just some honest input is all I'm and sure others would like to read after all it's a big waste/effort if wrong choice is installed.
Cheers.

[GQ TANK]

Sunbury brake & clutch do a replacement kit for $280 that has a 20% higher clamping pressure then OEM

The kit included the release bearing, pressure plate and clutch.

The spigot bearing was an extra $12

They are also on ebay

PS I prefer to pull the engine - as the box's VERY heavy - if you have a heaps of mates handy it the way to go. I have a gantry and block and tackle - done all the work by myself.

If you are keeping the truck - do the rear oil seal & the welch pug ( the one for water). I suggest you DONT do the 55 mm plug on the left at the rear (looking at the rear) as only Nissan sell them - and its for oil - unlikely to corrode and leak

[mudski]

I put the heaviest and strongest clutch available in my U and the clutch actually felt lighter. But my clutch setup is hydraulic so that may help. Don't know how yours is...

So you will be towing a 2T float occasionally too? If so to skimp here. Even though its may be occasionally, that occasion might be the time a cheaper clutch will let go.

[Robo]

Ok thanks for the tips.
Am doing all that "needs" doing, inc rear main.

The head gasket let go and cracked head "non repairable" @@XX***##.
head gasket was old and and not sealing properly any more.
Let water into sump via No 6 exh lifter hole.
Also flow on effect water also leaking into No 6cyl at rear.
(Bet you didn't know TB42 can hold 11.5 lts of oil.)
Decided to do rear main and check clutch also.
Not much more effort to remove engine anyway with head off.
Have hoist and good supply of tools.
Found clutch wanting so that also.
Soo, brand spanking new after market head, new hardened valves and 2nd hand rocker assembly,rocker axle pivot and rod was out of round and hence tappety.
New timing kit, seals etc, every thing except for bottom end rebuild.
I know it sound like I should go the full monty, but courts, solicitors, and finally getting custody of your own grand child at the same time has exhausted our funds.
Motor "was" sound before, the bores still look good pistons feel good and comp was good at 165psi not long ago.
couple small bits N pieces and hopefully reassemble this weekend.
ooh and settled for Exedy Safari Tuff clutch, picked it up yesterday.
thanks again, cheers.

[MudRunnerTD]

Ok thanks for the tips.
Am doing all that "needs" doing, inc rear main.

The head gasket let go and cracked head "non repairable" @@XX***##.
head gasket was old and and not sealing properly any more.
Let water into sump via No 6 exh lifter hole.
Also flow on effect water also leaking into No 6cyl at rear.
(Bet you didn't know TB42 can hold 11.5 lts of oil.)
Decided to do rear main and check clutch also.
Not much more effort to remove engine anyway with head off.
Have hoist and good supply of tools.
Found clutch wanting so that also.
Soo, brand spanking new after market head, new hardened valves and 2nd hand rocker assembly,rocker axle pivot and rod was out of round and hence tappety.
New timing kit, seals etc, every thing except for bottom end rebuild.
I know it sound like I should go the full monty, but courts, solicitors, and finally getting custody of your own grand child at the same time has exhausted our funds.
Motor "was" sound before, the bores still look good pistons feel good and comp was good at 165psi not long ago.
couple small bits N pieces and hopefully reassemble this weekend.
ooh and settled for Exedy Safari Tuff clutch, picked it up yesterday.
thanks again, cheers.

I have stayed away from this thread till now as i thought i had read you were looking to do a cheapish clutch for a short time before selling teh car.

From teh list above i dont now think that is likely.

Without question, The Only clutch to fit into your car is the Exedy Safari Tuff Clutch! everything else is second best mate. No regrets it will serve you well. I can happily give you a link to another forum where big boys play hard in GQs and this exact conversation was had. Exedy v 4Terrain and Hands Down the Exedy got 100% vote as the better product.

Good choice mate, bad luck with the car and i hope your rolling real soon.

[Robo]

Nar I didn't mention selling, a fellow member If I were looking to .
All good.
waiting for oil pump sprocket is the hold up now.
Yeah by all means pass the link on, my son would love to have a look.
Busy trying to talk the young bloke into replacing his head gasket before he hits the same wall.
he constantly going off the black stuff, and testing himself a swb maverick.

TIP if your thinking of adjusting oil pump guide (TB42) don't bother, replace as a kit is the go.
Raising the guide heightens the chains angle downwards onto sprocket and bends/ folds the sprocket teeth backwards, I adjusted it slightly when timing cover sprung a leak last year, but that turned out to be a bad move damaging sprocket $65 ex Japan for new one.
Seems the lower setting is best , may explain why its not self adjusting but a little strange has manual adjustment past what I adjusted.
cheers

[Robo]

New Safari Tuff, nice and easy to use.
I said don't need $600 clutch.
but the research here educated me to not take a chance,
especially seeing it's alot of work and not economical making a bad choice.

the replacement rocker assembly completely rid valve train noise.
nice and quite no more tick tick tick.
happy,
well almost, got that electrical miss to tune out again.
thats another story.
thanks for the help peoples.

Ohh !!
Was talking with my Dad this arvo (has a degree in chemistry).
told him in the coolant I use deminerlised water not tap water.
he said that would be a little acid , mild but still a soft acid possible enough to still clean a softer metal.
the iron block would be ok but other metals ???
WT hell I'm thinking.
the process--- well the one he knows about
the water is put through a special chemical filter to absorb the minerals in it.
but as someone said every action has !
and the spin off is minerals are replaced with positive hydrogen irons.
hydrogen is one part of hydrochloric acid.
now this is where it gets interesting
to make it hydrochloric it needs negative charged calcium irons to make it hydrochloric acid and that is missing here.
so he said don't think you need to worry.
that said I was a little surprised to see how clean the old head was, so that may explain something.
thought I'd pass it on, take from that what you will.
Using Distilled water overcomes this problem
cheers.