View Full Version : Engine coolant RB30 - your input.
mudnut
17th July 2013, 06:15 PM
G'day all, I have just flushed out the Old Trols cooling system, after just on 2 years, 6700 kilometres. The repco brand reckons 3 years 100000km but rusty sludge was beginning to form and the water was going brown-grey. I have refilled and flushed the radiator after a trip into town, and got more gunk out. Will do the same tomorrow and again if the water is still horrible. Could you please tell me what brand you use for your RB30, and what results have you had?
Regards Mudnut.
Parksy
18th July 2013, 07:04 AM
Hey mudnut, have you run any flush additives? I find flushing cooling systems an absolute pain in the arse because when you think it's clean, then fill it with coolant, it goes dirty again. On the tb42e it has a bleed plug ontop of the plenum which is really useful for making sure the system is clean, because no matter how much I flush the system and think its clean, if I unscrew this plug, it usually gives me a good indication if I've flushed it properly. I don't really know what setup the rb30 motor has, but the cooling system passages through the intake system are really good at trapping crap. In terms of coolant to use, I'd stay away from repco or sca brands. I don't know which ones to recommend yet because I'm having cooling system issues myself due to a crap radiator I bought off eBay.
Rustyboner81
18th July 2013, 07:44 AM
Dont forget to take out thermostat and back flush the block. Makes a huge differance.
I used to use the red stuff now i use the green caz id change mine every year and its hard to get small topups of the red.
My rb30 never overheats and always has clean coolent.
mudnut
19th July 2013, 12:10 AM
Thanks blokes. I haven't taken out the thermostat since I've had the Trol, so its probably time to take off the cover and have a look. The engine barely gets above a third on the gauge, even when towing, so its all good so far, but I haven't really had it on a long hot trip to find out how it performs.
mudnut
20th July 2013, 05:46 PM
I have bought Tectalloy concentrate and taken the thermostat out and cleaned in behind it. The engine block was fairly clean, but the top hose fitting and thermostat housing were both starting to rust out. I have cleaned them and applied a coating of marine grease to each, before refitting the hoses, but I will soon need to replace them. Does anyone know of a manufacturer who makes stainless or at least gal coated replacement fittings?
threedogs
20th July 2013, 05:59 PM
Would that Marine grease react at all with the coolant??
mudnut
20th July 2013, 06:04 PM
It might, but it is between the inner surface of the rubber and the outer surface of the fitting, and the clamp should keep the coolant away.
threedogs
20th July 2013, 06:30 PM
In like a gasket I thought the whole lot was smeered in grease, sounds good, been a few members Inadvertantly mixing coolants
resulting in the coolant turning to gel and clogging radiator resulting in over heating
mudnut
20th July 2013, 06:39 PM
I can't remember who taught me to smear grease on outside of the hose fittings as it was some 28 years ago, but it seems to make it easier to remove the hoses and I have found it can prevent rust. I hope it should halt the existing rust.
Alitis007
21st July 2013, 01:22 AM
I have bought Tectalloy concentrate and taken the thermostat out and cleaned in behind it. The engine block was fairly clean, but the top hose fitting and thermostat housing were both starting to rust out. I have cleaned them and applied a coating of marine grease to each, before refitting the hoses, but I will soon need to replace them. Does anyone know of a manufacturer who makes stainless or at least gal coated replacement fittings?
You can buy them new from bursons, when i had my vl i got a new top hose fitting and thermostat housing but they where in alloy. They where made in ballerat so i was happy with that!
I use rubber grease coz the oil in normal oil based grease wrecks the hose by making it soft.
mudnut
21st July 2013, 02:09 AM
Thanks for the tips, mate. I still have one more drain to do, before I put the concentrate in, so I will clean the oil based grease off and use the rubber grease.
liftlid
22nd July 2013, 11:30 AM
just replace the housing when it gets corroded, I've found the easiest way to keep the diesel running cool is to have my favourite radiator place remove the radiator once a year, clean and flush, repair cracks, pressure test and replace hoses and belts if slightly suspect as its easier to do with the radiator out.
I find it easier to do this than have hoses burst out in the bush. The temp sits on qtr. most of the time if it raises I know I have a dirty radiator.
don't forget your spare hoses and belts will also rot out in the back of your car especially if the are the old ones off the car.
mudnut
22nd July 2013, 12:38 PM
After taking the hose off again, to put clean off the marine grease off , and put some Inox food grade (rubber compatible) grease in, I pushed a cloth deep into the hose and found it had a coating of sludge, so I have put some bars leaks radiator flush in. I then was compelled to take the Old Trol for a long drive as two hundred Ks of driving before changing out the water is recommended. I inadvertently had to go bush and get it dirty. Funny that.
liftlid
22nd July 2013, 01:03 PM
What a shame!
Rustyboner81
22nd July 2013, 07:32 PM
After taking the hose off again, to put clean off the marine grease off , and put some Inox food grade (rubber compatible) grease in, I pushed a cloth deep into the hose and found it had a coating of sludge, so I have put some bars leaks radiator flush in. I then was compelled to take the Old Trol for a long drive as two hundred Ks of driving before changing out the water is recommended. I inadvertently had to go bush and get it dirty. Funny that.
Haha
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