3ltr heating up

[Dave n xanths gu]

Hey guys I've noticed my truck getting hot after last weeks mud mission... The truck was up on the hoist today n I noticed heaps of mud in back of radiator... Also got big light force spotties n winch control pack blocking airflow... New winch shit itself last week after two river crossings n dyneema is wrapped around my bullbar also restricting airflow... Serviced it today 170k, n arb are playing with winch on thurs... My question is about the radiator, clean inside n out r just replace the thing after 170k... Full clean was priced at 300, new one fitted 400... Do they seal up after properly after being played with??? I've got fan on top of ic is there any other ideas??? Cheers guys

[mudski]

If you have the know how, remove the radiator and clean the fins of the radiator yourself. Then either take it to a radiator mob and get it cleaned and flushed. I can't see a clean being $300. That would be the easiest $250 they have made. Get rid of the fan on the IC, all that will do is restrict air flow, unless you do most of your driving at low speed and high rpm.
There is cheaper radiators around but the quality of them might be questionable.

[Dave n xanths gu]

Remove rad, Internal n external clean, replace top tank... 300... I'm not mech hands on... Low speed n high rpm in humid steep muddy forest tracks... I will check brand n warranty on new 400 rad... I'm worried bout re sealing tank after clean???

[Dave n xanths gu]

Adrad radiator 400 + fitting n new hoses... 550 drive away... If u get rid of ic fan would u ditch the cowling as well??? Cheers

[Mikees]

The $300 should be for a full rodding, not just cleaning the external. Gets all the build up out of the core. Intercooler fans work better from below where they suck air through the IC - the benefit is for low speed work where there's insufficient flow through the scoop. Check the Cross Country intercooler design. $400 fitted sounds a bit cheap, check the inclusions.

[threedogs]

Give your radiator a squirt at the carwash but DON'T pull the trigger, that's way too much pressure.
Soak to soften mud then squirt lower section of rad. Try to create air flow not hinder it, Fully welded copper
radiator would be the go, IMO.

[Morton]

pull the radiator out & slow soak the muddie area with the hose for about 30 minutes, then hose on full pressure appx 1 foot away or so run the hose into the fins, do not use a pressure cleaner, a proper clean out will take you an hour, don't rod it or stuff around with anything else, throw it back in & fill with correctly diluted coolant, I think from memory it is 33%, when playing in mud regular enough, make this part of your maintenance schedule, I do mine once a year, takes me 30 minutes after the initial clean of 1-2 hours, the radiators in these are awesome & the thermostat rarely shag out, if looking to replace it, stay away from Chinese knockoffs, they are around the $250-280 mark & will give you grief, if not now it will at the wrong time, they are thin, light weight, have dodgy caps, usually the original cap wont fit, a well maintained radiator should last past 250k & them some, it you can change a tyre you can change a radiator

[Morton]

ohh & get rid of the fan for the IC unless you do bucket loads of soft sand driving, this is when it is most affective & apparently originally designed for