1995 Holden Commodore VS Coolant Question

[NissanGQ4.2]

Hi guys n girlz

I know some of you drive commohores as your daily and there are some mechanics on here so thought I would post the question here rather than joining another forum

I bought a 1995 VS Acclaim series II the other day and need to know what coolant I should be using and at what ratio

I have read on a commodore forum that Nulon long life ( Greeen ) is suitable and to use @ 50% ratio and the guy at Reco said it would be fine but only need to use 33% ratio, so bought it. But have read also that you need to use Genuine Holden coolant and pellets so I am starting to have doubts that I should be putting the Nulon in.

Let me here your thoughts peoples

Cheers

Toddie

[Alitis007]

I use genuine Holden coolant Todd, its concentrate and you only need 30% unless its the pre mixed stuff. You will also need to bleed the cooling system after you flush out the old coolant.

Do you want me to give you the procedure mate?

Edit: 30% is only 4ltrs

[NissanGQ4.2]

Thanks George, so is the Nulon no good for it?

If and when you have time to right the procedure then yes please, I know there is a screw up where the top hose is to let the air out but that's about it.

Cheers

Toddie

[Alitis007]

As long as its concentrate and contains 980ml/l Ethylene glycol you should be right mate . I'll write it up later coz i'm rubbing down a bonnet to paint fir my brother but it'll be a step by step sort of thing to flush and bleed with stuff you have at home :)

[Alitis007]

Sorry for the late reply Toddie but here we go.

Tools you will need:

Multi grip pliers
Flat headed screw driver
Phillips headed screw driver
1/4" drive screw driver with a 7 and 8mm sockets
1/4" drive ratchet and 10mm socket
3 or 4 empty 2 ltr soft drink bottles ( clean of course :) )
36 grit sandpaper
Trolly jack
Jack stand
Bottle brush
There is 1 more tool i use but you might not have is a windscreen removal tool which is a hook type tool that i use to break the seal on the hoses but you could make one with and old screw driver or twist the hose.

Side note:
Ecotec v6 motors suffer from electrolysis when they have not used coolant for a long period of time and in most cases after the cooling system has been replaced the with fresh coolant the seals on the water pump fail and it leaks, in extreme cases the impeller on the water pump gets eaten away like this
30323
So it might be worth it to change the water pump and thermo stat while you doing the cooling system.

I can write up another procedure for that aswell if you like ??

Apart from that the only other places they leak water is from the heater tap ( under the brake booster on the drivers side), the radiator and the plentnum valley gaskets ( if this leaks you will find an oil built up under the radiator cap )

If the hoses feel crusty change them aswell, bursons sell a mckay hose kit with every hose you need and include 1 extra that is a vacuum hose that breaks when the cars are on LPG.

Parts you should have just in case:
Spare hose clamps sizes 010, 012, 016, 020 and 024


Procedure:
The Engine should be cold to avoid engine damage while flushing.
Before you begin the heater should be set to HOT, if the heater was on cold the last time you drove it, set the heater control to hot and start the car and turn it off after a 3 seconds.

Remove the engine cover from the 4 x 10mm capped bolts
Remove radiator cap

Remove hoses by releasing the clamp and twisting the hose untill it breaks its seal or by using the a windscreen tool or modified phillips screwdriver that has be grinded to a point with a blunt edge and bent to 90 degrees (heat the screwdriver to bend it) , begin with the bottom hose from the water pump and pull the hose away from the belt and wedge between the harmonic balancer / crank pulley to drain out. Its located below the idler pulley under the coilpack. Remove the 2 heater hoses from the motor above the power steering pump, one is 16mm and the other is 19mm . Remove top hose from thermostat housing ( this may have a spring clamp, try to re use that unless its been leaking coz its a constant pressure clamp and is alot better than the worm drive clamps)

Fill the overflow bottle with warm water and a cup full of concentrated degreaser.

Reverse flush the heater core and radiator by placing your garden hose into the bottom hose till water flows from the top, stop the flow from the garden hose to drain out dirty water the do the same in the top hose untill the water comes out clean. Do the same for the block but for the radiator and block you will need to fill them up when flushing from the top down by blocking the bottom hose on the radiator till water comes out of the filler neck and blocking the water pump from where the hose fits with your hand. On the motor you place the hose into the 16mm heater hose outlet, it goes directly below the thermostat and the reverse is the water pump and you will have to block the 19mm heater hose outlet. Scrub the overflow bottle with the bottle brush and wash out till its clean ( you can remove it from the 2 phillips screws or syphon the water out )

Clean up the hose fittings with the 36 grit sandpaper and re attach hoses.

Fill up 2 of the 2ltr bottles with clean water and the others with coolant.
Place the trolley jack on the corner of the "K" frame infront of the passenger front wheel where the radius arm is secured to, it should be just behind a large loop / tow point. Raise the jack to its maximum lift so the filler neck is the highest point. With your multi grip pliers crack the bleeder ( the round screw on top of the thermostat housing ) and uncrew it a couple of turns. Pour in the 4 ltrs of coolant first and then the water (the 2 ltr bottles neck where the cap goes on fits inside the radiator filler neck so just turn the bottles upside down and hold them on the radiator. Not as messy and critical for the next step so maybe try it when the bottle is empty). While your pouring the coolant and water in you will hear the air rushing out of the bleeder, keep filling till there is a steady stream of water coming out of the bleeder, you might need to squeeze the bottle a little till all the air is out. While the water is flowing from bleeder tighten the screw to lock it off again.

Leave the radiator cap off and placed on the strut tower.

If all the bottles are empty refill 1 of them with water. While the car is raised (making sure its in Park and the handbrake is firmly on ) start the car a quickly walk around to the passenger side of the engine bay with your bottle of clean water and raise the idle front the accelerator cable on the firewall side of the throttle body to around 2000rpm, if the all the air is removed the water level should drop, fill the radiator ( just pour it this time) while holding the revs up till its full then increase the revs pour in more water and refit the radiator cap ( revs still held high, put the bottle between the air box and the guard and grab the radiator cap off the strut tower)

Release the accelerator cable so the car is at idle again and fill the overflow bottle to the full line.

You can leave the car raised ( with a jack stand as well for added safety) or drop it onto the ground to warm up till the thermal fan comes on 3 or 4 for times then turn the car off. While its warming up keep a close eye on the temperature just incase there is an air lock coz it will over heat ! ( if it over heats let it cool and re bleed )

Let it cool for a few hours and top up the water in the radiator and overflow bottle.

Job done! Should only take and hour to do, and its fairly easy.

Hope i made sense lol let me know if you have any other queries (pm or quote me so i get the notification :) )

Good luck!

[NissanGQ4.2]

Thanks George, very helpfull info :-)

Sent Via MC Hammer Time

[Alitis007]

No dramas Todd, glad i could help!

[NissanGQ4.2]

No dramas Todd, glad i could help!

You won't be saying that next week when my Patrol shows up at your workshop *L*, Troll we be off the road as of next week, could do it 2morrow but don't won't to let go just yet! still getting my head around I will be driving something that is so low to the ground

[Alitis007]

Bring your credit card mate ;) and trust me when say the commo aint low, most tyres on semitrailers are only a couple of inches shorter the the roof line on ny rx lol