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robwa
28th April 2013, 10:18 PM
hey guys, im brand new to the 4wd business. i am looking to buy a patrol in the coming months and am starting to do my research.

Im looking to spend 12k-15K and am just looking for some advice on models etc. would i be better getting a modified older model or a less modified newer model...

ive been reading up about the 3.0 ltr grenade engine and how to overcome it.

thanks.

gardy
29th April 2013, 07:36 AM
gidday robwa i recently bought my first patrol. i too had a budget like yours. i bought a 2001 gu 3.0 with 255,000k 1 owner full service history some mods but nothing major.i have done 10k since. change oil every 5k get around 12=13 l/100km not towing and around 14l/100km towing 1.5 t camper. we are very happy with ours, but always look for good service history which ever way you go.

P4trol
29th April 2013, 08:09 AM
(generic advice)

Just remember when people decide to sell, they often neglect servicing and small things: fuel additives, regular driving etc. This means it may not drive as well on the test drive, or cost a little to rectify after purchase.

Another point :

Car with oil all over engine:

(just say you are the seller)

Buyer: needs a rebuild and respray


(just say buyer is now selling same car, same condition)

'just needs a clean'

robwa
29th April 2013, 08:53 PM
gidday robwa i recently bought my first patrol. i too had a budget like yours. i bought a 2001 gu 3.0 with 255,000k 1 owner full service history some mods but nothing major.i have done 10k since. change oil every 5k get around 12=13 l/100km not towing and around 14l/100km towing 1.5 t camper. we are very happy with ours, but always look for good service history which ever way you go.

were you concerned with the whole grenade engine when you were buying ?

Ben-e-boy
29th April 2013, 10:13 PM
It's like buying any vehicle.
Check the oil.
Check the engine for leaks.
If I buy a car I take the oil cap off a stick my fingers into the wells of the head an see if I get any sludge or foreign matter on my finger tips. If there is build up there it would indicate poor service history. I have done this with every car I have owned and it has not steered me wrong.
Check that coolant is used in the radiator not water.
Check what wiring is visible in engine to see if any one who think they can play with electricity has been playing. Things can go up in smoke.
Check the suspension components and bushes for wear or damage
Check steering components for wear or damage.
Check for misaligned panels indicating poor fitment and possible body work.
Check that the paint is a matched colour on every panel, if not, possible body work, could have been in an accident.
Check around the inside of the door for traces of body work. Again if some thing looks out of place could have been in an accident
Do some research on where patrols rust and take a fridge magnet with you and place it on the usual areas they rust. A fridge magnet won't stick to someone's bog work.
Check the drive line for leaks
Check the uni joints for play.
Check the brake lines for corrosion on hard lines or deterioration on flexible lines.
Check the condition of brake and clutch fluid.

Test driving.

Lock the hub and select 4h and 4L to make sure the transfer gears select properly with no unusual noises when driving.
Check that all the instruments and cabin controls work properly.
Make sure the thing stops, the hand brake works.
Make sure it steer properly and drives straight and true.

I can't think of much else at the moment just done a 14 hour shift.

If you aren't confident you know what you are looking at get a mate who is.

It is very easy to pick up a vehicle or ex mine vehicle that has had a dulux rebuild and a very hard life. Unbeknown to the future owner they are buying a heap of sh1t that will cost them more money than what the budgeted on.

If any else can think of something to add, add away.

EDIT. I like to to go and see a car first thing in the morning when it is cold. If not I request to look at cold. Some issues are able to be covered up when warm.

boots
29th April 2013, 10:20 PM
Well written Ben , and after a 14 hour shift . You deserve a beer or three mate . cheers .

Clunk
29th April 2013, 10:39 PM
Are you set on getting a GU, or would you think about going for an older GQ...... 12k or lower puts you in good condition TD42 territory or around the 8k mark for a low mileage TB42e. Now before people go on about fuel consumption, which in a TB42 is pretty poor (i know, I have one), just think about the purchase price, maintenance and fuel cost compared to that of the purchase price, maintenance and fuel cost of a diesel. You may find it'll take a few years of owning a petrol before reaching the cash spent on a diesel..... If that makes sense.

Don't slap it, tap it!!!!

BigRAWesty
30th April 2013, 09:41 AM
Tb's also create a higher hp out put stock compared to its NA td brother..
Makes turning those 35's easier...
Just don't expect to tow anything to far...

Kallen Westbrook
Owner of
Westy's Accessories (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?15134-Westy-s-Accessories.-A-small-back-yard-builder.)

robwa
30th April 2013, 11:16 PM
wow, thanks for that input Ben !

I hadn't even thought about a GQ until you mentioned it clunk. Ill certainly give that consideration. I really dont mind once I get a good reliable patrol as my kids will be with me a lot of the time.

As for model/specs I will definitely go for recommendations I can get here from the experts !

BigRAWesty
1st May 2013, 09:44 AM
As clunk mentioned if you go the gq that opens up the very reliable td42 turbo option. Around $10g with some mods. Put a $1000 into a quick tidy up of any rust and you'll have a great reliable car for decade's.

Quick question though. Are you tall or the kids looking like being bean sprouts?
The gq does lack leg space in the middle and rear.. I'm 6"2 and sprouted early, so I did struggle on long trips due to lack of leg room, but not an issue now I'm in the front.. :p

The gu does have more room for legs, but less cargo area as a sacrifice.

Kallen Westbrook
Owner of
Westy's Accessories (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?15134-Westy-s-Accessories.-A-small-back-yard-builder.)

aidan1996
1st May 2013, 06:28 PM
Hi there, hope this helps. I'm also new to the forum world. I'm in the process of buying a 1997 patrol/safari grand road. Common knowledge helps, or get a friend or family member to help you if you're unsure. Look over the exterior for any, dings,dents,paint bubbles ( indicating rust) or mismatched panels indicating a possible accident or respray, the interior, water leaks, damp smells, dirty seats or carpeting, does everything work? air conditioning too, if equipped. Next check fluids,starting with our friend oil. Start it up, observe any smoke, rattles, peculiar noises, allow it to warm up, take it for a good drive, note any odd noises or rattles, how it steers, the transmission shifting etc. Although this isn't in depth, I hope it does help you. Good luck

roy2486
2nd May 2013, 06:52 PM
The Patrol hasn’t changed its basic chassis layout, powertrain and dimensions very much since 1980 and some of the current internal panel pressings date back to that time.

GQ PATROL
The GQ replaced the leaf-sprung MQ in 1988 and was the first Japanese 4WD to offer all-coil suspension – exactly 10 years after the Range Rover pioneered the concept.

It's only because of sound engineering that the GQ Patrol (1988-1998) stayed competitive with new releases from Toyota, Isuzu-GM, Land Rover and Mitsubishi, because the powertrain, basic suspension and bodywork didn't change much throughout that 10-year life.
--------------------


2013 MERCEDES BENZ SL-CLASS (http://www.ezdia.com/epad/2013-mercedes-sl-class-price-reviews/7980/)

ktmarty
12th May 2013, 12:49 PM
Gidday Robwa,

hope I don't tread on toes here but when I bought mine I was looking for unmodified and preferably never taken off road. I found a Ti that was initially difficult to get into 4wd ( I figure it had never been in 4wd which MAY I repeat MAY suggest it's had an easier life ). Obviously if that life involved towing 2 thoroughbreds to the high country pony club then that may not be the case, which leads me to the next point. Things like electric brakes and HR towbars / HD springs suggest towing so bear in mind wear on driveline in these instances.

Service history and ditto everything everyone else has said but for mine unmodified.

SonOf
12th May 2013, 01:46 PM
I definitely agree that with your budget, look at the 4.2 GQ's - brother in law picked one up recently in beautiful condition for around $8k. I got my GU 4.2 recently for $19k with close to 300km on the clock & it will be replacing my GU 3.0, I need the towing capacity etc.
I would also look at the rear doors and under the rubber seal at the top as these rust and can be annoying replace/weld up a new one if you have the gear & know how. Also check to see if they have bothered greasing the uni joints etc as this is basic maintenance & that all the bolts are there, sounds silly but when I got my 3.0, one check underneath showed only 2 bolts on the rear shaft left.
Agree that it should be cold as this will also show to some degree if the battery is ok - I got stung on this one on my 3.0, battery was dead 48 hours after I took possession & it was not the alternator. Also check the terminals for corrosion etc. I also usually pop the plastic door trim holding the carpet down (dead easy ) and look under the carpet & along the wiring track, this can hold interesting evidence such as filled with mud or sand (there will always be some but not filled in with it) indicating some heavy use in wet environments.
Ask for service books or receipts if handy as this is also good indication of work done, service etc.

Hope it all helps & good luck

Nutta28
13th May 2013, 01:20 AM
I got a 2001 4.8 ti about a month ago for $15500 with 300k on it in all it is in petty good nick having the heads rebuild late last year and recites to prove it. With patrols you do need to check the rear door which the spear wheel sits on to see if it has any cracks in it. What some of the guys are saying about the GQ having more cargo airier isn't always correct because my gu has slides on the middle seats so that you can push them forward to give your self as much room as you want. For under $1500 I wouldn't look at the 3L just because you can't trust those engines and the don't have very good gear boxes either but a good 4.5 or 2.8 won't give you much trouble and the 4.8 you just have to be careful of valve resection if its been on gas as well as air flow sensors being burnt out for the older gas systems. The GQ's are a good car for the money you pay and the pick of engine would have to be the td42 and with that you need to check for blow back(oil by pass) which you need to take off the hose going between the rocker cover and the air filter and see if there is much oil vaper coming out of it because if the is to much it can cause the engine to run on(running just off the oil fumes after you have turned the engine off) you also need to check the exhaust for excessive smoke as that cauldron indicate that either the fuel pump or injectors need to be rebuilt which can be expensive