draglink ball joint ends

[79raven]

Can the ball joint ends be bought for the draglink on a swb 83 mq patrol or do you have to buy the whole draglink?

[MudRunnerTD]

They are called Tie Rod Ends and you should be able to buy the ends if they are removable.

[79raven]

The manual I read ( as I am use to rack and pinion steering) stated its called a draglink and the tie rod ends are connected to the tie rod tube. Heres a picture of the link I am talking about.
http://i1246.photobucket.com/albums/gg616/79raven/2013-04-24142057_zps921a8e2a.jpg (http://s1246.photobucket.com/user/79raven/media/2013-04-24142057_zps921a8e2a.jpg.html)
The link I am taking about goes from the bottom of where the steering damper is connected to and gets connected to the passengers side of the tie rod tube. This is where the other end gets connected ( left side of photo). I thought the tie rod en is actually to the right of the photo
http://i1246.photobucket.com/albums/gg616/79raven/2013-04-24142102_zps43fcb2ab.jpg (http://s1246.photobucket.com/user/79raven/media/2013-04-24142102_zps43fcb2ab.jpg.html)

[MudRunnerTD]

yes sorry i am also used to a rack and pinion. The end of an adjustable Drag link on a GQ is fitted with a Tie Rod end. It does not appear that your drag link is adjustable so i would expect that you have to replace the hole item sorry.

[79raven]

No worries mate. Its all new to me too.
I thought so, even though I hoped there might be some chance. Ive had a look around and it seems you can get ones with tie rod ends on them but they are after market. Im not the best with internet searches so it took me a fair while but I think thats the go.
Thank you for putting in some input though, its nice to get a response and VERY appreciated.

[twase]

Is that the photo or is the chassis rail rusted through?

[MudRunnerTD]

Is that the photo or is the chassis rail rusted through?

Looks OK to me, which pic?

[twase]

Crossmember immediately above the damper in the first picture.

[MudRunnerTD]

Crossmember immediately above the damper in the first picture.

I have had a really good study of the pic and gone into his photobucket as well and had a look at other pics. For the life of me i could not get what you where looking at. I think i do now.

The cross member actually looks likes it has been painted and there is a line of water drops hanging off it. looks surprisingly clean and tidy actually. Thats what i see anyways ;)

[twase]

It must be like one of those illusion tricks where you see something and its actually something quite different that suddenly appears when you are told. To me they looked like holes, to you they look like drops of water. You must be right as if they were holes then I am sure he would be looking at that as the solution to the shakes first.

[Parksy]

Looks like water. Or something else. I know when applying fish oil too heavily, it runs down the walls of the chassis and pools on the bottom section, then dries as little droplets.

[79raven]

Sorry guys. Yep, just cleaned the outside of the car so its water droplets. The chassis is very clean and to make sure of it I have sprayed it with black rust kill after a prep.
What I have found ( and with some help from a mate online who's a diesel mechanic) is when I get the Mrs to turn the steering wheel left to right while I inspect is the idler rod has unnatural movement on the ball joint where the 2 draglink's hit it. I greased up the joints two days ago and took it for a drive yesterday. Allot better but still wants to go off like its on rails occasionally due to road gradients.
Im thinking about replacing the idler bushes as I noticed there is about 2mm movement forward to back in the relay shaft and also grease escaped from the rear of the bush kind of quickly.
My mates in Moe and Im in The blue mountains, so he has just asked a few questions and had a look at the pictures for me. He also is a truck mechanic and not done much work on 4x4's, but he was able to clarify a few things. The manual I have kept talking about relay and relay rod, but I could not find any parts in relation to relays. He informed me its also known as the idler. Im use to rack and pinion sorry.
I know my way around a spanner and thought it would be a challenge fixing up a 4x4 thats got " foreign" mechanical's to me... But Im finding some of the basics elude me.
So, a recap now I know a bit more names of parts.....
After greasing up the front end I have noticed the tie rod ends have no movement but the rubbers a bit perished, but not bad. The bottom draglink rubber thats attached to the tie rod is worse for ware but no unnatural movement. The junction where the two draglinks join the idler has unnatural movement when turning the steering wheel and there is about 2mm of movement in the idler shaft. Im thinking maybe doing the idler bush kit and seeing what happens there. I know the ball joints got to be worse for ware on the draglink but I just done have the $200+ right now.
I had a look at the idler bush kits on ebay, do they all come with the rubber grommet aswell as the 2 bushes normally? Ive also read the Gq's draglink is too long for the Mq, are there any interchangeable bits with the Mq's in the steering department?
Thanks guys, Im currently on the last 2 weeks before moving house but I will check frequently now on here due to your messages and appreciate all info/ feedback/advise. My old man was a mechanic for 30+ years, so Im not mechanically retarded and can fix most things myself, just not clued into this style of steering or 4x4's.
Rob

[79raven]

Just got the Mrs to come out and turn the steering wheel for me again now the front ends been greased up. That junction where the draglinks joint with the idler arm still has a tiny amount of play ( maybe 1mm rocking on the ball), no movement in the idler shaft now. The grease nipple is non existent on the bottom of that draglink joint ( id say so it doesnt get torn off) and there was a small bolt attached. I did just remove the bolt, get the grease gun over the hole and pump it but might put a nipple on it and grease it up again, then take the nipple off and put the bolt back in. I know that ball joint will need to be replaced as its obviously warn ( I think due to lack of grease by previous owner) but like I said Im moving and dont have the funds to do it right now. Its a local move but I wont be using her to tow the trailer now I know its not 100%. It will have to be the Ef that does that.
Once the move happens and things start to settle down I will do an overhaul. Pink slip is due in July, so gives me a little time. Ill do the draglinks, idler bushes and damper ( dampers ok, but not 100%). That will pass pink slip anyway, then when I get some more funds ill do the tie rod ends and get an alignment.
I am really anal about my car's, so she will get there but like I said its all foreign to me so if you guys have any tips or advise it would fall on open ears.

[79raven]

Just looked at the pictures again, its the ball joint from the upper tie rod end where it meets the idler arm
Seen in this picture ( and it does have a grease nipple sorry)
http://i1246.photobucket.com/albums/gg616/79raven/2013-04-24142057_zps921a8e2a.jpg (http://s1246.photobucket.com/user/79raven/media/2013-04-24142057_zps921a8e2a.jpg.html)