door open light on dash is shutting off and on

[alexx]

Hi! does anyone knows what could be wrong with the wiring connections to the door light switches? Doors are tightly closed, lights goes on when running on humpy-bumpy and goes off on another humpy-bumpy.

I've check all the door switches. All working good.

[Sir Roofy]

hi! Does anyone knows what could be wrong with the wiring connections to the door light switches? Doors are tightly closed, lights goes on when running on humpy-bumpy and goes off on another humpy-bumpy.

I've check all the door switches. All working good.

check your globes the holders maybe streched,check the fuse might be a broken wire
might be just the truck my old one had that problem but never fixed it

[TimE]

Fiddle with your back doors. Mine had an issue with the "big" backdoor not being closed properly ( and the door ajar light flickering on and off) , banging it shut solved the problem. Ruff but effective :)

[NP99]

Fiddle with your back doors. Mine had an issue with the "big" backdoor not being closed properly ( and the door ajar light flickering on and off) , banging it shut solved the problem. Ruff but effective :)

Can also lead to the metal cracking.....

[Stropp]

check the door is shut properly, you may need to adjust the door latch to close tighter to stop the light flickering.

[lhurley]

Mines the same. My trouble was the back door sensor. At first i put a ball of blue tack in the rubber to beef it up a bit to stop it, but it came back again. I find that stuff moving in the back would push on the door making it flash.

[my third 256]

put a fridge magnet over the sensor in the barn door and problem solved just increases pressure on switch

[JulianMan]

Mine have the same problem. I checked all what you say but still doing the same

[alexx]

Fiddle with your back doors. Mine had an issue with the "big" backdoor not being closed properly ( and the door ajar light flickering on and off) , banging it shut solved the problem. Ruff but effective :)

I've tried all like what in the many replies here before i had the post. Works at times but sometimes doesn't. It irritates me sometimes. I ignore most of the time. I just can't bring on the alarm if i step out with the light on before i shutdown the engine. Running on a rough road would solve it before i park and after banging it lightly but doesn't flick off . hahaha! I find it more gentle than banging the doors so hard.

Thank you for all replies. I will post again when I fine an ultimate solution or when someone post his.

[alexx]

put a fridge magnet over the sensor in the barn door and problem solved just increases pressure on switch

Pressing very hard on every sensor is tighter than any magnet pull. it didn't work. Thank you.

[bri]

I adjusted the rear big door holding latches to hold the door in more this fixed the light coming on issue for quite a while now light only comes on when on off road and doors rattle or camping gear bangs against doors when climbing hills . I just go and open and close doors again to rid the light. Fridge magnet very good idea as posted by someone stick it on the metal of the door to press the striker of switch in more.

[alexx]

I adjusted the rear big door holding latches to hold the door in more this fixed the light coming on issue for quite a while now light only comes on when on off road and doors rattle or camping gear bangs against doors when climbing hills . I just go and open and close doors again to rid the light. Fridge magnet very good idea as posted by someone stick it on the metal of the door to press the striker of switch in more.

I have already tried the maget remedy. I also sprayed cleaner on the sensors to remove dust or dirt but still won't really stop permanently the flicking light. Light won't come in smooth roads but road cracks will bring it on again. That's why I posted initially for a wiring connections rescue. I want to learn how to do it.

It isdisturbing to go down and do the open close door thing. I got tired of that. Haha. I just shut off all ceiling lights during drive and at parking time, do a banging door or go around a bit for another hump to flick off. Alarm on.

Thank you for replying.

[boosh]

Hi! does anyone knows what could be wrong with the wiring connections to the door light switches? Doors are tightly closed, lights goes on when running on humpy-bumpy and goes off on another humpy-bumpy.

I've check all the door switches. All working good.

I had this problem. It was the rear door after I put heashrink on the locator. I just unscrewed the sensor button and put a small washer underneath it. It just brings the button a bit closer to the body.

[rottodiver]

I have the same problem.... I have worked it out to be my right rear door.... It is that sensitive that on some days if I turn the aircon on and the fan on number 4 the light comes on then when I open a window or turn the fan down the light goes off again.
It is annoying especially when out bush and it is night time...interior lights flicks on and off till I turn it off....
Scotty

[rottodiver]

When I say right rear I don't mean the barn doors but the back seat right rear
Scotty

[alexx]

Well, the washer remedy won't work in my case. A simple test could be made by pressing hard on the switch button. If lights turn off, then one could say it just need tighter press on the body. The magnet or the washer remedy would apply.

I just tested the wires on the switches today, i found out that power supply on one of the wires fluctuates or fades away. Loose wires could be causing it or a relay switch could be malfunctioning. There may be a need to check wiring connections under the dash. I need more time.

I temporarily disconnected the door open sensor of the car alarm so i could switch the alarm on for security and be able the remote auto door locks. Ceiling lights are also switched off, the car still alarms if door is opened not by the remote control.

[alexx]

Open door warning in dash is no longer flickering, it now glows steady.

I figured it to try after I removed one door switch, ceiling lights are glowing which should not be the case. The ceiling lights should not glow. I removed all the door switches including the switch in the big barn door, removed also the ceiling lights, the door open warning is still lighting. I conclude that short circuited wire is causing the dash light to glow.

I read in another post, "cut and connect" method. I will try this over the weekend.

[Yendor]

Do you currently have the interior light circuit connected to your alarm system?

Has you vehicle been fitted with a switch under the bonnet that would set the alarm off if the bonnet was opened? if it has, try disconnecting this and see if your interior lights are still play up.

[happygu]

After disconnecting the main sensor in the Big Barn Door, and this should have fixed your problem permanently as it usually is the culprit. You may need to join the wires together to stop the interior lights operating. Check the main door switch with a multimeter to see if if a closed contact with the door shut, or if it is an open contact with the door shut...then either join the wires or tape them up separate as required.

Mic

[alexx]

Do you currently have the interior light circuit connected to your alarm system?

Has you vehicle been fitted with a switch under the bonnet that would set the alarm off if the bonnet was opened? if it has, try disconnecting this and see if your interior lights are still play up.

I also disconnected the alarm line to the door switch so that I it would not trigger the alarm.

The line to the trunk switch (which is alternatively used in a bonnet-hood switch) is also disabled/disconnected. The interior lights still glow.

[alexx]

After disconnecting the main sensor in the Big Barn Door, and this should have fixed your problem permanently as it usually is the culprit. You may need to join the wires together to stop the interior lights operating. Check the main door switch with a multimeter to see if if a closed contact with the door shut, or if it is an open contact with the door shut...then either join the wires or tape them up separate as required.

Mic

I have checked the driver's door switch thru a multi-meter, the wire having the negative terminal is in closed circuit with the body of the GU. This should not be the case since all the doors are closed. I conclude that the negative line is grounded. I just can't find the point of contact at he moment. I got to find where the relay switch also, it could be malfunctioning.

[alexx]

I was able to locate a wire grounding to the body. The wire connecting the ceiling-mounted LCD monitor was detached from installed connections in which Nissan center didn't not secure properly. The electrical tape gone loose leaving an open wire to touch the metal roof. So there's the short circuit. I reconnected it and put a shrink tube with an electrical tape on top. I just don't have the time to solder it for better connection.

The open door warning light problem is solved. I thank God and the forum especially those who participated in this thread.

[Sir Roofy]

i was able to locate a wire grounding to the body. The wire connecting the ceiling-mounted lcd monitor was detached from installed connections in which nissan center didn't not secure properly. The electrical tape gone loose leaving an open wire to touch the metal roof. So there's the short circuit. I reconnected it and put a shrink tube with an electrical tape on top. I just don't have the time to solder it for better connection.

The open door warning light problem is solved. I thank god and the forum especially those who participated in this thread.

thanks for the feed back

[daggy]

Thanks for this thread, I have been chasing a short for two weeks that had the roof light and door open light come on intermittently and glow strong and weak, I was ready to rewire the car, then I read this thread. Simply pulled the led light out of the rear cargo area and refitted, looking I could see that one end was riding slightly higher than the other and obviously creating a short onto the body. Thanks again.

[alexx]

I'm equally happy you found the short too. It saved us much money.

[Hodge]

I'm now back to square one with this. After fixing it in this thread...
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?20789-Got-my-GU-annoying-door-switch-problem/page2

... It's back to doing what it does best. Not working !!
I'll have to look into it tomorrow.

[Hodge]

Ok. I looked further into this today. A lot of people report issues with sensors on the large rear barn door. I'm stupid or blind but where is this sensor ? It's the last thing I haven't checked simply due to not seeing it. It's most likely so obvious and smiling at me everytime I open the door but I cannot see it. Switch on small door is at the bottom, I thought I fixed that, but now I don't think thats the issue any more.

[Wtf_mate_lol]

I heard that because the rear door has the tyre mounted on it that the bracket loosens slightly over time causing the door to become loose and dash light to flicker. Mine is doing the same and i'm yet to tighten the bracket. I could be wrong though. Thought that why you see a few patrols with the steel bull bars with tyre holder brackets on them?? I have 33's on my door but it always flickered even with 32's

[alexx]

Ok. I looked further into this today. A lot of people report issues with sensors on the large rear barn door. I'm stupid or blind but where is this sensor ? It's the last thing I haven't checked simply due to not seeing it. It's most likely so obvious and smiling at me everytime I open the door but I cannot see it. Switch on small door is at the bottom, I thought I fixed that, but now I don't think thats the issue any more.

Remove the large barn door finisher and look for the sensor inside.