View Full Version : Any tips on how to remove a stuck oil pressure sender?
soulburner2000
31st March 2013, 01:13 PM
Hi All,
While trying to clean out the cap/hood/sheath around the oil pressure sender I accidently snapped one of the wires. In my efforts to remove the sender to repair the wire or replace the unit, I snapped the remaining one as well.
I had tried every angle imaginable with a variety of tools but I can't get the damn thing to budge.
Helpful tips would be appreciated.
soulburner2000
31st March 2013, 01:20 PM
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?17150-RLI-s-step-by-step-wiring-and-gauges-install!&p=312462
Just found this thread - might give this idea a go.
NP99
31st March 2013, 02:11 PM
It may have been installed using a loctite product. I think you will need a lot of pressure using a 1/2" uni joint on a ratchet and extension. That's if I understand your problem correctly.
threedogs
31st March 2013, 02:14 PM
Maybe you need to shock it to break the seal
NP99
31st March 2013, 02:20 PM
Maybe you need to shock it to break the seal
Clockwise, then anticlockwise ?
threedogs
31st March 2013, 02:34 PM
OR apply some heat if safe to do so.
NP99
31st March 2013, 03:05 PM
OR apply some heat if safe to do so.
Yeah, I thought of that too, except its pretty tight in there!
threedogs
31st March 2013, 03:27 PM
How about a set of vice grips
Is it possible to belt a large size "easy out" into it???
Parksy
31st March 2013, 03:57 PM
Does the sender unit have any flats on it? Try clamping a g clamp to the unit. This will give you something to hold onto as well as increase your leverage.
soulburner2000
31st March 2013, 05:53 PM
Does the sender unit have any flats on it? Try clamping a g clamp to the unit. This will give you something to hold onto as well as increase your leverage.
The g-clamp sound like the way to go - so damn tight in there, bugger all room
NP99
31st March 2013, 06:22 PM
Or try one of those manifold stud removers. I think Trade Tools in Nambour have them
threedogs
31st March 2013, 06:46 PM
Thats what a vice grip is, You know those plyers with the screw at the back,
made for this job
Parksy
31st March 2013, 07:14 PM
I'm thinking that the sender unit is probably a little big for just standard vice grips.
NP99
31st March 2013, 07:15 PM
Thats what a vice grip is, You know those plyers with the screw at the back,
made for this job
Many options.......it's all about how much swinging room you have.
NP99
31st March 2013, 07:17 PM
I'm thinking that the sender unit is probably a little big for just standard vice grips.
The sender unit would have to be huge for the grips not to work!
soulburner2000
31st March 2013, 07:29 PM
I'm thinking that the sender unit is probably a little big for just standard vice grips.
yeah, couldn't do it with the vice grips that I have - plus I wanna reattach the wires and reinstall so I don't wanna trash it too much...
nissannewby
1st April 2013, 01:48 AM
I know it might be a little hot. But take the car for a hard run then try and crack it. Failing that I have plenty of tools down here if you want a hand.
Remember guys to read the op. He only broke the wires off it he hasn't broken the fitting that attaches it to the block.
fracster
1st April 2013, 05:26 AM
On really tight things, I have always found that trying to tighten a bit first can crack them.
As above, get the engine warm as well, that little bit of expansion could well help.
NP99
1st April 2013, 04:54 PM
Hi All,
While trying to clean out the cap/hood/sheath around the oil pressure sender I accidently snapped one of the wires. In my efforts to remove the sender to repair the wire or replace the unit, I snapped the remaining one as well.
I had tried every angle imaginable with a variety of tools but I can't get the damn thing to budge.
Helpful tips would be appreciated.
Mate, what is it exactly that won't budge? The sender or a cap on the sender that the wires run to?
soulburner2000
1st April 2013, 08:32 PM
On really tight things, I have always found that trying to tighten a bit first can crack them.
As above, get the engine warm as well, that little bit of expansion could well help.
Finally going to get another chance to have a go at it tonight. Will get the engine warm again, and will try to tighten then crack if possible. If trashing it is neccessary to get it out, so be it - they can't be that expensive to replace...
Thanks to everyone for their helpful suggestions.....
Parksy
1st April 2013, 08:57 PM
What's your guess on their price? Looking at eBay, which I consider the cheapest option, a new genuine sender unit will set you back about 140 for the 4.2 engine. Cheaper for the 3l. I'd hate to imagine what nissan will ask...
NP99
1st April 2013, 09:20 PM
Yes, it's definitely a shop around part, try Bursons in Nambour.
soulburner2000
2nd April 2013, 01:28 AM
What's your guess on their price? Looking at eBay, which I consider the cheapest option, a new genuine sender unit will set you back about 140 for the 4.2 engine. Cheaper for the 3l. I'd hate to imagine what nissan will ask...
4.2ltr, wagon, auto, dual fuel
soulburner2000
2nd April 2013, 01:29 AM
Yes, it's definitely a shop around part, try Bursons in Nambour.
....or the wreckers up the road
soulburner2000
2nd April 2013, 01:32 AM
Mate, what is it exactly that won't budge? The sender or a cap on the sender that the wires run to?
the sender...cap was on tight, was quite dirty plus dry and brittle
soulburner2000
4th April 2013, 09:28 PM
finally got the s0n-of-a-biscuit last night. Then wasn't sure to which contact the yellow wire or black wire went, so took a (hopefully) lucky guess and soldered them back on.
Gregory's manuals are the most hopeless thing I've ever read with these vehicles - they assume you know where everything is and that you know what you're doing - and have so many innaccurate photos and incorrect 'suggestions', I now know why they are shrink wrapped so you can't look at them before purchase
Parksy
4th April 2013, 09:39 PM
Bugger. Did you end up guessing correctly? How did you end up getting it off in the end?
NP99
4th April 2013, 10:18 PM
finally got the s0n-of-a-biscuit last night. Then wasn't sure to which contact the yellow wire or black wire went, so took a (hopefully) lucky guess and soldered them back on.
Gregory's manuals are the most hopeless thing I've ever read with these vehicles - they assume you know where everything is and that you know what you're doing - and have so many innaccurate photos and incorrect 'suggestions', I now know why they are shrink wrapped so you can't look at them before purchase
So true, I also bought a Haines because of the limited info.
soulburner2000
4th April 2013, 10:20 PM
Bugger. Did you end up guessing correctly? How did you end up getting it off in the end?
Not sure yet if I guessed correctly. I took the radiator out and flushed everything (removed engine block plug also), and found that I had additional space to have another go (removed all the hoses and took off as much wiring as I could that was also in the way). Lots of 'freeze and release, a g-clamp and some movement to-and-fro, then the correct size spanner on the nut (lucky guess) and it slowly shifted. I couldn't believe it. I was minutes away from posting on here that it couldn't be done and whoever said it could were liars (joking). But having as much room as possible definitely helps...
soulburner2000
4th April 2013, 10:27 PM
So true, I also bought a Haines because of the limited info.
I wanted a Haines, but was told that Haines had bought Gregory's (or vice-versa) and they were the same now. I managed to get a few additional manuals online, but I prefer having clear images and words in front of me while I'm working.
By the way, I have an old hardcover Gregory's manual for my xc falcon (came with the car when I bought it early 90's), and it is so detailed and accurate, I haven't got a bad word to say about it. Guess they lost their way...
NP99
4th April 2013, 10:32 PM
I wanted a Haines, but was told that Haines had bought Gregory's (or vice-versa) and they were the same now. I managed to get a few additional manuals online, but I prefer having clear images and words in front of me while I'm working.
By the way, I have an old hardcover Gregory's manual for my xc falcon (came with the car when I bought it early 90's), and it is so detailed and accurate, I haven't got a bad word to say about it. Guess they lost their way...
They must have used two separate teams when they developed the manuals. Gregory's are so generic these days:(
Brisat
5th April 2013, 11:14 PM
Just get a non-genuine sender from Repco. The thread is 1/8 BPT, 10mm will fit at a pinch.Some have two connections some only one but they all work the same
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